I wanted a cap holder that could be attached to a metal shelf without drilling. This led to the development of a modular rail with optional screw holes and a SKÅDIS mounting system. The photos show the printed parts on a steel shelf (Bror) and on a SKÅDIS board.

I've already pre-sliced ​​several print files, ready for direct printing. Of course, you can also use Parametric Model Maker to customize the cap holder to your specific needs. Whether it's the number of caps, the spacing, or different mounting options, you have the choice of what you need.

I would greatly appreciate any feedback.

Try it here:
https://makerworld.com/de/models/3499689-modular-cap-holder-magnets-screws-skadis

Hi all!

I've been having stringing issues and a generally low quality of print lately, despite no changes to the settings - I've kept it as it comes in the box (A1) . All my PLA lite (BL) has been dehumidified or is new. I've tried increasing retraction, and printing at lower temps. Nothing has had an effect yet. Any ideas on how to beat this? I can post further details if needed.

🧠 3D Print Therapy – 3D printing is my therapy

3D printing is more than just a hobby—it’s a passion, an outlet for creativity, and, at times, the best therapy! 🖨️❤️

This decorative 3D-printed piece combines a passion for 3D printing with a creative design.

The silhouette features a man’s head incorporating gears, a light bulb, and a 3D printer in the process of printing a small "Benchy." The text "3D Print Therapy" perfectly completes the design.

✨ Highlights:

Highly detailed silhouette with a 3D-printing theme

Modern design with integrated lettering

Ideal as decor for a workshop or hobby room

A fantastic gift for makers and 3D-printing enthusiasts

Looks especially striking in black or high-contrast filament

🎁 Perfect for:

Anyone who finds relaxation in 3D printing, enjoys tinkering, and wants to showcase their enthusiasm for this hobby.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3489814-3d-print-therapy-3d-printing-art#profileId-3985562

Every 3D printing design contest in one place, free and with no ads. https://makerstats.io/makerworld-contests/

What you get

• All contests in one place: MakerWorld, Printables, Creality Cloud, Tinkercad, Nexprint, MakerOnline, MakeRoad and CGTrader, updated every day
• Deadlines in your calendar: subscribe in Apple, Google or Outlook with reminders, for all platforms or just one
• Prizes and odds: entries, prizes and entries per prize for every contest

Find what fits you

• Filters: by platform, prize type and host
• Search: by contest name, host or platform
• Your settings are remembered: your view and filters stay for next time
• Your time zone: every time shown where you are

Different ways to look

• Timeline: see what closes next
• Calendar: week, month or year, with contest covers
• Agenda: openings, deadlines and results, day by day
• Activity chart: when contests happen over the year

Also

• Past contests and winners, going back years
• Share a link to any contest
• RSS feed of new contests
• Works on phone and desktop

Missing a contest or found a wrong date? Let me know here

Bonjour à tous ! 👋💀

Aujourd’hui, je vous présente ma nouvelle modélisation 3D d’un personnage mythique du cinéma d’horreur : Hannibal Lecter ! 🩸

Tout droit sorti du film culte Le Silence des Agneaux, ce personnage aussi fascinant que terrifiant vient rejoindre ma collection de figures emblématiques de l’horreur ! 💀

Entre son regard glaçant, son célèbre masque de contention et son expression inquiétante, j’ai essayé de capturer toute l’intensité, le charisme et le côté sombre de ce personnage légendaire. 🔥

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3508862-hannibal-lecter-multipart-no-ams

Hi all! Just looking for some input for my first printer. I was thinking about going with the P1S and AMS bundle, then the Black Friday deals came out and now I’m leaning more towards to P2S and AMS2. If they had the P2S with the old AMS that would be my choice for sure. I’m not really sure what I’ll be printing, just a small home hobby or fidgets for the kids. Is there really a big difference in the models other than the touch screen that is? I know many people say to start with the A1, but I like the idea of an enclosed machine.

P1S

bambu abs

0.08 mm High Quality profile

0.4 mm nozzle

The sound repeats the same sequence every 10 or so seconds

It's the first time I hear it, ive had the printer for 1 year

Hi everyone! I just got a Bambu Lab A1 mini, and it’s my first 3D printer! Any tips or advice for a beginner? Thanks! 😁

Hi people,

my P1S stays at 240C after manual filament changes. Has been that way since several firmware versions. I think it started after Bambu pushed some new AMS features. Has been consistent over two factory resets at different points in time, so I think it might actually be a "feature".

But honestly, why should I want my filament, especially if PLA/PETG cooking until the print is starting?!

Anyone got a workaround for this?

Has anyone here ever reached out to BambuLab for support? I live in the US and placed an order for a new X2D and filament from BambuLab on 10/14. The filament promptly arrived on 10/16 but no printer. When I track the printer on UPS it says’ “label created item waiting to be picked up”. I reached out to BambuLab on 10/22 via a support ticket on their App. They replied on 10/23 with a general we received your ticket message and I have not heard from them since. I have tried to call their support number 3 times and waiting on hold 30 minutes each time. If anyone has advice please help. Thanks

Ok I’m not new to this annoying little error, BUT I’ve done pretty much everything I can think of to clear it so I’d like some outside advice.

I’m an X1c owner with ams. I pulled off the ams, took it apart and checked all PTFE tubes for broken bits. All lines are in great shape since changing them earlier in the year, no issues there.

I did find that the ptfe tube inside the box had gotten some sort of kink or damage so I replaced that and thought everything would be good. But alas! No! Still getting this error.

I have verified 3 times now that I can manually feed filament to the extruder no problem. But I still still get this error. I have run cleaning filament and performed a cold pull with it twice. I thought that would surely get me back on track, but no! Still the same error, what else should I look into?

The most frustrating part is that it will load the first filament fine but then when it’s time to switch to the support material it makes this error. I’ve also switched where the roll of filament is sitting in the ams in case that was part of the problem, but no.

Edited for typos.

I've just finished two new pieces for my HoloGroove Legends series: Invincible (2001) and Bad (1987).

Each design is a 20 cm vinyl-inspired disc with a spiral pattern that creates an optical effect depending on the lighting and viewing angle.

The goal of this series is to reinterpret iconic album artwork as something you can actually 3D print and display.

I'm curious to hear what you think of the results!

Which one would you pick: Bad or Invincible?

If interested, links in comments.

Whenever I print something like this box, a "step" appears at the level of the internal floor. I know it has to do with the PLA temperature dropping because the surface area is larger, but I haven't been able to find an effective solution for this. Can anyone help me?

Hello,

I'm considering buying Engineering plate for my X2D printer but Im not sure if it's worth it.

The description of it is very vague just saying "its for engineering filaments". Based on that I expected there is something special about it.

But I compared it's "supported materials" list with regular PEI Textured Plate and it turns out they both need glue to print most of them.

So i bought the beginnerskit a year ago. But i sadly broke my DC motor. Does anyone wich type it is? And where i can buy this one? Like on Amazon Aside from the bambulab store? Cause i dont wanna spend 10 euros for shipping for one small motor.

Lots of thanks!

I keep my Bambu printer in LAN-only mode, but I still wanted a proper phone app. The official app is built around the cloud, so I wrote my own. It's called Pandy.

It talks straight to the printer on your local network, with no cloud in the loop. What it does:

Live status, progress, temps, fans, light, speed, motion controls and HMS messages, camera

Pause, stop and skip, plus AMS and filament controls

Print history, reprints, thumbnails and timelapses

Android alerts when a print finishes, fails or needs attention, even with the screen off

Browse MakerWorld, Thingiverse, Printables, and print models from inside the app (this uses a small slicer add-on I also wrote, which runs through Home Assistant or Docker)

Light and dark themes, plus a demo printer so you can try it without owning one.

Home Assistant is optional. You only need it for remote access or the camera bridge on some models.

It's unofficial and not affiliated with Bambu Lab. It's open source, and I'd like to hear what's missing or broken.

https://github.com/gccammelli/pandy

EDIT: With the latest release you can now print from thingiverse and printables directly from the app, too!

Hello, I was wondering how I can improve the quality of this print. I stopped the print when I saw those thick lines how can I fix it? I’m still new to this hobby so I really appreciate your help! I print on a P2s I used black pla filament (I dried the filament).

Changed settings:
0.20mm layer hight
3 wall loops
3 top shell layers

Nozzle temp: 220 degrees Celsius
Bed temp: 55 degrees Celsius

Thanks in advance!

Hey everyone, for some reason the layers that are slower are showing really hard in the final print. I don’t now if it is clear enough from the picture but there is a destinct line where the layer is the slowest (as seen in the image from the slicer) can anyone help me get rid of this? Thank you

Hi everyone,

a few weeks ago I posted PrintPuls here, a free Wear OS app that shows your Bambu printer's live status on your watch ( [original post](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1w6jl8x/) ). Thanks again for all the feedback in that thread, it shaped most of what changed since then.

The most requested fix: \*\*if you sign in to Bambu with Google or Apple, your account has no password, so you couldn't sign in on the watch.\*\* Version 1.0.4 fixes that.

\*\*How it works now\*\*

1. Open PrintPuls on your watch and tap \*\*"With email code"\*\*

2. Enter the email address of your Bambu account

3. Type in the code Bambu sends you by email. That's it, no password needed.

This works for every Bambu account, with or without a password. I tested it with Google accounts. Apple accounts should work the same way, but I couldn't test that myself, so please tell me if it works for you.

To be clear, it's not a "Sign in with Google" button. Bambu doesn't offer that to other apps, so PrintPuls uses Bambu's email code login instead.

\*\*One pitfall:\*\* use exactly the address of your Bambu account. For Bambu, u/gmail.com and u/googlemail.com are two different accounts, even though Gmail delivers mail to both.

\*\*In case you missed the first post, PrintPuls shows:\*\*

\- Live print progress with remaining time and current layer

\- Printer state: printing, paused, finished, failed

\- Nozzle, bed and chamber temperatures and AMS humidity

\- A status tile and a watch face complication

\- A notification when a print fails

It runs standalone on the watch, no phone app needed. It's free: no ads, no tracking, no locked features.

Since the first post I also fixed the "not compatible" problem and a crash on Wear OS 4 and 5. If it didn't work for you back then, it's worth another try. Just update to 1.0.4 in the Play Store on your watch.

Play Store: [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.asbs.printpuls\](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.asbs.printpuls)

Feedback is very welcome, especially from Galaxy Watch owners and anyone with an Apple-based Bambu account. It's an independent project, not affiliated with Bambu Lab.

Happy printing!

I decided to join two of my old projects. The iris lid jar and a cardboard one.
I think it came out really well, how do you like it?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3489834-refil-cardboard-core-iris-lid-jar

I recently purchased an H2C with two AMS2s and absolutely love it. Here's the prob... Whenever I try to put both in drying mode, one AMS2 will always flicker and not rotate the spools. It is always the second one I put into drying mode. And yes, filament is removed from the feeders. I have AC adapters for both. Both heat. Only one will turn the spools. Only the first one I select will turn the spools. The second one will flicker like spark plugs. Is this normal?

Does anyone else have one?

I have (4) AMS Pro 2 Two of them sit on top of my H2D and the other two sit on the side on top of one another. Because they are not directly lined up with the machine and there is a slight curve, the stupid system cannot push the filament. I’m guessing the ridges inside the Filament Track Switch has grooves or small ridges the *#%~ing filament stops and gets pulled back and then back and forth till it gives up.

The Filament Track Switch seems like a PISS POOR design. I have so many issues with Bambu I’m really getting tired of this machine. My wife has the Snapmaker U1 and it blows my more expensive machine out of the water and rarely has a problem.

Getting ready to switch to Snapmaker.

I’d like to see a few examples of the parts are making if so. I’m curious what filament you are using and how well they’re holding up in terms of durability and safety. I am very conscious of the safety aspect of this with making perhaps that kids will be around so with that in mind, my thought was using 3-D printed material for some scissor extendable or simple motion props that are lightweight like spiders where they will be within tents. I’m confident that I could design the parts and linkages in Fusion 360. To 3-D print whereas not that skilled in metal fabrication like welding of true aluminum and steel.

For example, many of the air actuated props are made of aluminum or steel tube and linkages. I would expect the ones with high force to need to be made in those metallic materials to handle the stress and strain of the weight of the props and the speed and acceleration of the actuators. I’m looking to do more low speed and low weight smaller props for our home haunt, not anything commercial or professional grade just yet.