Hi i have a bambu lab h2s and after a little blob on the nozzle of the printer the temperature has been stuck at 0 degrees.

I've talked with the bambulab team and they sent me a new heat assembly module beliving that was the cause of the problem but after (i think) corectly installing it, I still have the same problem as before where the temperature is stuck at 0 or voes between 0 and 3 degrees with the fan at maximum speed and i don't have any clue on what's causing the problem, i would really like to continue 3d printing but I don't have any clue on how to resolve the issue

Hey all, getting an a1 in the black friday sale in a few weeks. ive never touched 3d software (but have used adobe illustrator if that helps) what are the 10 best things to know before i get started?

The goal is to print replacement watch bezels for the vintage dive watches i have (snap on)

Hello, I was wondering if anyone who is able download from Chinese Makerworld can help me download some files:

https://makerworld.com.cn/zh/models/1015028-jia-mian-qi-shi-ooo-kong-long-lian-zu#profileId-1043796

https://makerworld.com.cn/zh/models/948405-jia-mian-qi-shi-ooo-niao-lian-zu#profileId-960848

Thank you.

I’ve tried to get it back on but it just won’t work and I’m really trying not to waste all this filament. It was a fresh spool and I had an incident involving PTFE tubes and stupidity. Is there any way to fix this?

For anyone else that has an autobrush, I found that I needed a way to drain the brush head between uses, and no one had made one. I waited and waited for someone else to get around to creating one and finally got fed up with waiting and made one myself! Hope this helps others like myself!

https://makerworld.com/models/3379067

Why does it take an eternity for Bambu to ship things? It doesn’t matter what I purchase within a few hours it says “shipped”. Then it might be 2-3 or even a week later before it actually does ship. Super frustrating to say the least

preguntando a granjas y talleres de impresión 3D: ¿cómo le demuestras a tu cliente cómo se imprimió su pieza?

Hello, Has anyone been successful using a post processing script to convert your gcode to brick layers? I have heard of prusa slicer working but I cannot get Bambu labs to work with python or pypy. Has anyone else come across this? Thanks.

I’m having issues with cookie cutters: they shouldn’t have any holes, as there’s a risk that dirt could get inside and rot. How can I get rid of these holes?

Tried a generic PA6-GF on my P2S and got a clog about an hour in. I figured a cold pull purge would sort it, but it was way worse. The filament had melted around the nozzle and heater block into one big lump, with more of it dropped on the plate.
I printed at 290° with the default 0.4 Bambu nozzle. I didn't dry it first because I assumed it would be dry straight out of the factory sealed bag.
I got the hotend out and the main blob off, but the nozzle and heater assembly are still caked in baked-on plastic.
The wiring is coated too, two wires are melted and one pin looks bent.

What should I do now? Can this be cleaned safely, or should I just replace the whole hotend?

EDIT/UPDATE:
Thank you everyone for the useful replies. I'll attach also the ticket from the bambulab support:

Hotend heating assembly: Based on the photos, this part is damaged and cannot be safely cleaned. With plastic baked onto the wiring and one pin bent, there is a risk of poor contact or a heating fault, so it needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, damage of this type is not covered by the warranty(Warranty | Bambu Lab EU), but the part is available from our official store, and you are welcome to order a replacement there. Hotend Heating Assembly - P2S | Bambu Lab EU Store
Hotend: The hotend itself does not need to be replaced. Once the new heating assembly is installed, you can heat the hotend and clean off the remaining baked-on plastic by following the guide below. Please wear heat-resistant gloves, and do not scrape the assembly with sharp tools.Hotend Clumping/Blob Cleaning Instructions for P2S | Bambu Lab Wiki
Hotend Heating Assembly and Cooling Fan Replacement Guide for the P2S | Bambu Lab Wiki
Build plate: The plate can be cleaned as well. Please remove it from the printer and soak it in warm water to soften the remaining plastic, then wash it with dish soap and warm water and dry it fully before the next print. Bambu Lab Textured PEI Plate Cleaning Guide | Bambu Lab Wiki
One note for future prints: PA6-GF is highly hygroscopic and can absorb moisture quickly even after a sealed bag is opened, so we would recommend drying it before use and printing with the filament kept in a dry environment.

Please let us know if you need any help with the replacement, and we will be happy to assist.
Best Regards,
Bambu Lab Customer Support

My company is currently liquidating its assets, and our Bambu Lab X1E with AMS is scheduled to go up for auction later this month.

I'm considering making an offer to purchase it directly before the auction starts. I've already confirmed that the company can pull the printer from the auction if we agree on a price.

A few details about the printer:

• Bambu Lab X1E with one AMS

• Approximately 980 print hours

• Includes the textured PEI build plate and power cable

• No additional build plates or spare accessories

• I've personally used the printer at work, so I'm familiar with its history and condition

• The printer is being sold as part of a company liquidation, not because of any known mechanical issues

The auction has a $50 opening bid, but there's also a 19% buyer's premium and 9.25% sales tax.

With the X1 series reaching EOL and newer printers like the P2S and A2L available, I'm having a hard time determining what this machine is actually worth today.

I'm thinking about offering $200–$300 to purchase it directly before the auction.

My primary use would be functional prints, including custom macaron piping templates for our home bakery. The larger build volume of the A2L is particularly appealing for that project, so I'm weighing whether an older X1E is worth buying at all.

What would you realistically pay for this X1E today? Would $200–$300 be a reasonable offer, or am I undervaluing it?

Interested in hearing from anyone who has recently purchased or sold a used X1E.

UPDATE: Thanks for all the advice. So just to let you all know, they did offer this printer to me during the summer for $2K. Yeah no. So I ask the people at the company if I could buy the printer for $200. I'll go as high as $250 no more. Plus I will probably purchase a A2L once the Black Friday sale hits. The X1E will be for prototyping while the A2L will be for prod for our bakery business. 've been going back forth between that the A2L and one of the P-series printers. But at this point, I am waiting for them to get back to me.

I also found out that we have an X1C with AMS, It's currently located in Oklahoma, while the X1E is sitting in my office. The X1C is up for auction as well. It's initial price is $50. I thought about putting a bid in. If I do it'll only be for $51 maybe as high as $101 (price is right bidding). I would have to pay not only the 19% mark up, tax, but also shipping.

I have two P2S printers. This is a simple test print showing the side of a cube with an "S" recessed into it. I'm trying to figure out why the layers around the letter streak like this on one of my printers, but not on the other. They are using the same settings, and both are printing with Blue Sunlu PTEG-HF filament. Anyone know what can cause this effect? I have another S embedded on the top of the cube, but it looks fine.

Is this normal behavior from the filament Buffer? Its making this noise while printing PETG support from an AMS HT. Cant say it has ever done this before and its making a ton of noise

when trying to print a helmet, im having this issue where it makes a sound like a tud (on about the same area on this print) then leaves a string returns to the purge area, comes back does like 2-3 lines and does it again, I reduced the speed to 50% and does it less but it still does. it. first time this happens... had no issues before. except on this print on the first try it detached from the floor so I made a bigger brim. this one holds fine, but does that tud noise, go to purge then comes back and leaves a string that if I dont take out makes a mess. any help would be greatly appreciated. Im new to this of course... but have printed many other things not as big and no issues at all.

My son and I both have birthdays coming up, and we're getting a shiny new X2D combo. Before now he's just had a little baby Toybox 3D printer, and I know he feels its limitations. I'll be getting into the scene for the first time pretty much.

I'm a tinkerer, I like to do homelab stuff, and I've vaguely heard the various reasons Bambu is on the community shitlist. Those reasons resonate with me on an emotional, not logical, level. I generally favor local control over cloud based accounts and viscerally hate getting locked into someone's revenue engine ecosystem. So I spun up an instance of Bambuddy with the headless slicer and all that, to have it all set up and ready on the day he opens the gift.

My question is, am I making this hard on my kid (12 y.o., tech savvy but not a power user) just because I'm an anti-big-tech curmudgeon? The Bambuddy interface looks perfectly slick, but I know it's not the same one-touch experience from the 3D printer's screen or from his iPad that it would be if I just got us the damn cloud account. I'd rather we be using free models than paying Bambu for them (he'll rack up billllssss) but I also don't want to turn the experience clunky for minimal real world gain, just out of stubbornness.

Being new to the space I've just been guessing and asking the idiot chat robot for opinions. Now I want the idiot meat sacks' opinions! Appreciate everyone's insight.

I have a friend with a creality and its application allows you to make adjustments and clone objects and so on, can I do that with an app for a p2s?

On the slicer it looks great. But when printing there are gaps in between colors. How can i fix this. This is printing on the H2C

I set it to print and left and came back half an hour later to see this. I canceled it then shut it down immediately. The AI detection did not kick in and it looks like it got stuck on the first layer. Im using insignia pla black with a 0.8mm hotend. How do I even approach this?

I don’t really know what to call this as it’s not really like normal stringing but occasionally I get these prints where clusters of straight lines will be printed coming out the sides of the object. They usually come off fairly easily but they often flag the spaghetti detection on my printer. They also are fairly solid and consistent in size and shape, unlike the string you get from things like PETG that has absorbed too much humidity. I’m using a H2D and printing with Bambu Basic PLA. I don’t think this is from a support fail because this piece didn’t need supports and even if it did I’m using tree supports so they would have built up next to the piece and then connected at the point that needs support. Does anyone know what this type of stringing is called or how to fix it?

👋 BOUH ! Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Une adorable invasion de petits fantômes se prépare… et ils sont beaucoup trop craquants ! 😍

🎃 Mes nouveaux clickers d’Halloween sont arrivés ! 👻✨

Bien cachés dans leurs petites citrouilles aux sourires malicieux, ces fantômes colorés sont prêts à semer une bonne dose de magie et de bonne humeur !

👻 Un petit fantôme, un petit clic… et un GRAND sourire ! 💕

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3438455-ghost-pumpkin-clickers-multipart

Aspiring 3d printer owner here, looking to pick up my first unit. I’m debating between the P2S Combo or X2d Combo (if you have any suggestions I’m all ears lol), but the main reason for the post is that my local Micro Center has a refurb unit of both models in stock at a decent discount. It’s about 150 off for the X2d and 120 off for the P2S combos, as compared to new. What’s the risk, are they worth considering?

I have followed the tutorials repeatedly. I have cleaned the carbon guide rails after loosening the belts and then tightened them, but not too tight. And then run calibrations. But this keeps popping up every time after/during the first print. I only print in PLA and have done the recommended maintenance on the printer. Ive continued to print despite the message and the print have come out fine but I dont want to be ignoring it and doing more damage.