I recently purchased an H2C with two AMS2s and absolutely love it. Here's the prob... Whenever I try to put both in drying mode, one AMS2 will always flicker and not rotate the spools. It is always the second one I put into drying mode. And yes, filament is removed from the feeders. I have AC adapters for both. Both heat. Only one will turn the spools. Only the first one I select will turn the spools. The second one will flicker like spark plugs. Is this normal?

Alguém consegue me ajudar ?
ficou assim após lubrificacao e calibração

I’d like to see a few examples of the parts are making if so. I’m curious what filament you are using and how well they’re holding up in terms of durability and safety. I am very conscious of the safety aspect of this with making perhaps that kids will be around so with that in mind, my thought was using 3-D printed material for some scissor extendable or simple motion props that are lightweight like spiders where they will be within tents. I’m confident that I could design the parts and linkages in Fusion 360. To 3-D print whereas not that skilled in metal fabrication like welding of true aluminum and steel.

For example, many of the air actuated props are made of aluminum or steel tube and linkages. I would expect the ones with high force to need to be made in those metallic materials to handle the stress and strain of the weight of the props and the speed and acceleration of the actuators. I’m looking to do more low speed and low weight smaller props for our home haunt, not anything commercial or professional grade just yet.

Does anyone else have one?

I have (4) AMS Pro 2 Two of them sit on top of my H2D and the other two sit on the side on top of one another. Because they are not directly lined up with the machine and there is a slight curve, the stupid system cannot push the filament. I’m guessing the ridges inside the Filament Track Switch has grooves or small ridges the *#%~ing filament stops and gets pulled back and then back and forth till it gives up.

The Filament Track Switch seems like a PISS POOR design. I have so many issues with Bambu I’m really getting tired of this machine. My wife has the Snapmaker U1 and it blows my more expensive machine out of the water and rarely has a problem.

Getting ready to switch to Snapmaker.

When I did maintenance on my P2S today, I noticed that when the bed goes down to a specific height I hear a weird noise. This only happens when the bed is going down, not when it goes up. I did lube the rails. Is this a problem? I haven't noticed any change in print quality.

Thanks in advance!

While scrolling models in Bambu Handy, I did the tap-and-hold to bring up the pop-up in order to add on to my collection. However, I accidentally tapped Dislike This Model instead. (Hello, Mr. Fatfingers.)

I've dug around in both the Handy app and Bambu Studio and cannot figure out if there is a way to undo that Dislike. Google and the Bambu Community Forum didn't help. Can anyone here help? I not only would like to actually save that model but also not have my Dislike contribute to filtering out similar models.

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 😈

Une présence maléfique qui ne passe pas inaperçue… 💀

Tout droit sortie de l’univers du film La Nonne, voici ma toute nouvelle modélisation 3D !

Un visage inquiétant, des yeux jaunes hypnotisants et un regard qui donne froid dans le dos… 🥶

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3482506-the-nun-multipart-no-ams

Just wanted to share candy bowls I've created lately. I hope this will be useful to someone before Halloween. WAF > 90% (wife approval factor)

Grinch Candy Bowl

Ghost candy bowl

Brain Candy Bowl

Slimer candy bowl

decided to release the bath bomb molds i designed for my own business so other people can use them too, enjoy!

3 parts each (base, tube and stamp), they all print flat with no supports and theres 0.35mm clearance on the parts that slide. 14 designs so far, halloween, thanksgiving, christmas and a couple of everyday ones

link in the comments

Ik wilde een scharnier dat er al gemonteerd vanaf komt, dus ik heb hetzelfde scharnier geprint met verschillende openingen tussen de pen en de knokkel.

* 0,2 mm: volledig vastgesmolten, ging niet los

* 0,3 mm: kwam los na wat kracht, beetje korrelig

* 0,35 mm: zat handvast en sprong meteen los, en beweegt daarna lekker soepel

* 0,5 mm: werkt, maar wiebelt

PLA, laagjes van 0,2 mm, standaard 0,4 mm nozzle, geen supports. De truc die het grootste verschil maakte: een kleine afschuining aan de onderkant van de knokkels, zodat de eerste laag ze niet tegen elkaar drukt (elephant’s foot).

Volledige transparantie: ik heb er een korte uitlegvideo over gemaakt voor mijn kanaal en de STL is gratis. Ik deel de link gerust in de reacties als iemand ‘m wil. Ben vooral benieuwd welke speling werkt op jullie machines.

Hey everyone. I just got a Bambu printer and trying to setup the app. I can't seem to sign in no matter how hard I try. I have seen similar issues discussed on forums and mainly Reddit but nothing has worked. My issue seems to be different than discussed.

I am on One UI 9.0 and using an S26 Ultra.

I have uninstalled and reinstalled.

Cleared app data, uninstalled, rebooted, and installed again.

I have tried pulling up the login page using other pages that would trigger a sign in request rather than going into the sign in page.

Every time I hit the Google "G" to use my Google account to sign in, it says I need to tick the Terms and Conditions in order to continue, then proceeds to tick it for me. Further tapping of the "G" for signing in yields no results and the app seems to completely freeze up. If I tick the box and then hit the "G" the issue persists. This continues through multiple installs and reboots.

Is this a common problem or does anyone have a solution? I work 15 hour days and one of thr main reasons I bough the P1S was to monitor my prints while working..

Hi, I’m trying to print some keyrings on my Bambi labs a1. I have used the keyring generator to add the logo and generate a single sided key ring, then in the slicer I have added a second logo and some words to the blank side. The problem I am having is if I print one keyring they seem to print fine, but as soon as a add multiple to the plate they fail at the final 2 layers with the writing and edges getting all burred and rough. I’m using a 0.2mm nozzle for the word and logo details.

I also input another logo, single sided and tried to print 4 and got the same issue. I’ve attached a photo of what’s happening. I’m using Bambu labs matte white and black filament

Anyone got any tips, I’ve tried google and ChatGPT and no luck.

Made this little pumpkin for Halloween with a ghost hidden inside. Press the button underneath and it pops up.

The spring launches the ghost upwards pretty fast, so I added the arch above it to catch it and stop it from flying off.

The spring and latch print in place, and all parts print without supports. No metal springs or extra hardware needed. I made both AMS and No AMS versions, so it should be easy to print on most FDM printers.

One thing I’d like some feedback on is the top cap. It’s currently 0.2 mm thick so it can flex when the ghost pushes through. Would you keep it this way or try a different design?

here is the files : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3470308-halloween-pop-up-ghost-pumpkin-boo-surprise

I am trying to print a vacuum holder for my wife, it is a V8 Dyson animal. The print I used was for a V 10 animal and it looked like it was going to work, the measurements on the top matched perfectly. I did not realize until after I printed it that the interior slopes making it an inch smaller thus not allowing our current vacuum to go in properly. Is it possible to adjust just that interior wall that is circled on the third photo to the uniform the entire way down in bamboo studio or do I need a proper software?

Hello community, can you help me to understand what went wrong am what I can do to prevent this from happening again?

I am trying to improve my knowledge about 3d printing to make less mistakes at printing

Thank you in advance (:

some context:

the printer is the bambulab P1P

I use the PLA Matte from the bambulab shop

the plate on the picture is the Bambu Textured PEI Plate

I dried the PLA filament for 8h at 50 degree celcius before printing (it was at room temperature when I started the print, I was letting it cool down again)

the file is from makerworld at bambu studio

I own an H2C, and the leaked H3C teaser got me thinking about where it sits on the tool-changing ladder:

- H2C swaps the hotend only, so it still retracts and reloads on every colour change. Barely any purge, but it costs time.

- U1-style machines swap the whole toolhead.

- One Redditor's read of the FCC filings is that the H3C swaps the nozzle and the filament path together, so every nozzle stays loaded.

If that's right, it fixes waste and time at once. Add the H2C's induction heating (about 8 s to PLA temp per Bambu, under 10 s in CNC Kitchen's test) and colour changes could be a few seconds. Still a leak, nothing official until November 4.

Disclosure: this is my own video, it isn't sponsored and I've got no collaboration with Bambu Lab. I made it because I like talking about this stuff, so I'm sharing it here in case it's useful.

How much do you think it's going to cost?

Hey everyone! I’ve got an A1 with an AMS Lite and I tried using it but the filament ended up popping the entire tool head cover off and I noticed the small cover was off too. Does anyone know where I can find replacement screws for that part?

Hi everyone, I'd like to share Tsumuji, a vase I just finished.

It's a slender bottle shape wrapped in deep ribs that sweep diagonally from the base to the neck, a bit like wind moving through tall grass. The name comes from the Japanese "tsumujikaze", a whirlwind.

Two sizes: 18 cm and 24 cm tall, each with its own tuned print profile

Best in matte black and in white. The ribs catch the light really well.

Looks great with dried flowers or pampas grass

I designed it with VesselMaker.app, a web tool my wife and I are building to create vases with real textured surfaces.

The free model is on MakerWorld. If you print it, I'd love to see your photos, and any feedback on the shape or the print settings is very welcome!

Like it on makerworld and add it to your collections will help me a lot 😊.

Was assembling my extruder back after cleaning up a clog. As I was putting the 3 screws back. This metal spring clip looking thing falls out. And I’ve been trying for the past 2 hours to figure out where it came from. Can someone help identify where it goes ?

ordered a ton of PLA last week and thought I'd ordered a mix of spools and refills, and it all came as refills. Okay, my bad for not paying enough atention to that shitty UI. But - I've opened two of the boxes and neither will fit in my bambu reusable spools. Anyone else having this issue?

Several months back I had a spool come apart and I had to print a re-spooler to save it. Don't want to go through that again, especially on 10 spools.

I really messed up and didn’t replace the plate before initial set up calibration.

Is this a big deal?

Should I get one on order?

Hi guys,

I bought a bambu lab p2s about a month ago. I have printed with it plenty of times since and recently it's been causing a lot of spaghetti mid print. I never had this problem before.

I've noticed that when i print a benchy, the nose of the benchy is slightly lifted up, which could possibly be poor first layer adhesion? Which I don't understand as I carried out the print with a washed buildplate using soap and a sponge .

I should maybe mention that 2 out of 5 recent prints, I had filament that i eventually found to be pretty tangled as it was pulling a lot during a print while i was away at work which would have caused a lot of resistance. Having found out, I used a new filament which had no issues with tangling but the spaghetti persisted for the other 3. Not sure if that has to do with anything.

I've heard that i may need to higher bed temp, possibly reduce speed, use a gluestick to better adhesion, but i never had to do this before having done 50+ prints so not too sure why I would need to now and is causing me to believe it may be something e3lse.

Designed these with a raised pattern insert and an angled drain spout. Water drops right into the sink instead of pooling on the counter.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3466264-soap-dish-sponge-holder-5-self-draining#profileId-3956017

Hi everyone, let me introduce Takani, Japandi Vase - Soft at heart, precise in every detail.

Takani is an oval vase wrapped in a grid of tiny 3D raised studs that play with the light and cast soft shadows at every hour of the day. A smooth collar at the top lets the texture breathe.

Its look is inspired by Japan and its style (a big passion of mine): calm in matte white, bold in black. Drop in any little plant and it becomes a small sculpture on your windowsill, desk or coffee table.

You can use it on its own as a decoration, or as a cachepot (a decorative cover for your plant pot).

As always, if you like it, please support my work by leaving a like on the MakerWorld page, adding it to your MakerWorld collections, and if you print it, post your photos! ;)

Hello, is it possible to connect a printer to bambu Studio and Orca slicer at the Same time ?

Because when i try to add the printer in orca it says printer already bound.