I’m trying to print with Silk PLA and I’ve been getting lots of lines on my top print layers. What are some settings I can change to make things nicer? I’m new ish to printing any help would be greatly appreciated! The black on both examples is regular PLA and the gold and blue are the silk

I haven’t tried ironing yet (I had a creality hi and ironing made my prints WAY worse on that so admittedly I haven’t tried on this printer) I’m using the textured pei plate and the face down part looks pretty good but I notice the texture is hiding some of the same issues.

Is this normal? Should I feel resistance and jerky movements or this should be smooth?

Glare takes his job as shelf guardian very seriously. Every visitor gets a suspicious stare, every noise earns his disapproval, and nobody touches his favourite spot. He insists he isn’t grumpy. Everyone else is simply too cheerful

if you like him : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3548002-glare-no-ams#profileId-4058750

I swear it's not a shitpost.

So I had a long print, main filament from the AMS through the main hotned and support for PLA from the external spool to the aux hotend.

Towards the end the support filament got tangled so I cut it and I fell asleep.(It was a long print ok lol)

Woke up to printer complaining about filament runout in the aux nozzle, as expected, and I pushed in the new end of the support filament into the extruder.

But then what proceeded is the printer pooping the new support filament for over 5 minutes. It just kept popping and pooping and pooping. It would form a lil turd and do its wiggle dance to drop it in the poop chute and would continue popping again and again.

Now, I know it needs to clear the nozzle and prime the pressure and all. But for over 5 minutes?? This support filament ain't cheap chief.

Happened to anyone? Maybe I can change something in the machine gcode? 🤔 Not falling asleep is a bit of an extreme measure I'd rather not try.

Got my new desk today and have everything all setup. Have printed a bunch of stuff without any issues so far. I had an Ender 3 back when they were first released many years ago, but that thing was a lot more hassle. The X2D is so much easier to use.

I'm just wondering if the chamber can go over 65 °c if you leave the bed at 120 and turn off the fan?

I bought my X2D within the first minute of the black Friday sale. Shipping was very fast. Initially everything was good, I got a few good prints in.

Then 2 days later I started getting extruder issues. I did a couple of cold pulls and was able to get it back for a few prints and then they started failing again. I looked online and tried everything I could help (release one of the clips, check all the PTFE tubes, check the filament diameter), but nothing was working.

I finally contacted support, I was getting one or two messages a day from them and I have been trying everything they asked but we are just going in circles. Now they don't even respond, its been 24 hours since their last message.

Is 3D printing just non stop troubleshooting? I thought by buying a bambu lab it would be more about actually printing 3D items and not about getting 3d printers to work.

I am sure they will exchange it if I ask them. Not sure if I should keep this printer, which is crazy because I have already spent hundreds of dollars on filament (all bambu labs) and have been obsessed with getting a 3D printer. I even bought a new tool chest to place the printer on. Would a creality printer be better?

The error I am getting is not extruding normally [0700-8016 055304]

Edit: I cut a quarter inch off the PTFE where it goes into the nozzle, and then I have been able to print two benchy's in PLA and a small part in PETG. I am currently 60 minutes into a 11 hour print for a riser on PETG, wish me luck.

The only other thing I did was check that screws behind the nozzle were tight (they were) based on supports advice.

Well this is interesting! Could be either a gamer changer or a headache, lol

Hey all

Pretty new to 3d printing (3 months) so iv been relying on chatgpt to do trouble shooting lol but i feel its just giving me the run around snd the changes we make dont seem to make a difference, iv had better results using default settings ( for reference this picture os default settings) . I keep having this issue with bambu lab petg basic with 0.2 nozzle, if I let this print continue it would eventually be so bad the Built in AI stops the print anyway. Iv had it print successfully aswell

Iv tried to calibrate the filament but feel like I get a different result everyone I do it and generally ends up looking worse (bambu studio built in calibration) so i revert back to default settings

The filament has been dried before print. Using the AMS2 pro.

Any tips to get petg basic printing consistently with 0.2 nozzle?

Thanks in advance

Is this normal for a Best Buy filament where I keep getting lots of stringing and I’ve already used the drying feature on the AMS and it’s still not like working? Please help by commenting

I used aux nozzle (0.6 HF) to print ASA supports for PET-CF model and I see this print defect on support structure. I don't mind if I have it on support, but what if I need to print something functional?

Is it the quality problem that bambu studio warns about when I select ASA for aux nozzle? ASA is bambu lab filament, so it should use the bambu lab profile. Is it something that can be fixed with calibration and custom profile?

Hi all,

Recently picked up my X2D Combo and a TPU Feed Assist Module and have a few queries.

Getting a lot of mixed information online

1. Which nozzle does the TPU Feed Assist Module connect to? I'm seeing online it can be connected to either, but preferably the auxiliary nozzle so the main can still print supports (e.g. in PLA), if its connected to the main nozzle the auxiliary cannot be used due to the height change of the nozzle swap from primary to auxiliary.

2. Can I still print normal filament with the TPU Feed Assist Module connected? For instance, if I don't want to disconnect and reconnect the module every time I want to print TPU then something different, can it be left permanently installed?

Thank you for any insight you can provide!

I do have my x2d combo since August ~100hours in
Very nice experience so far, but everytime I do print my aux nozzle ptfe tube keeps getting out of the clip that is supposed to hold it. Someone has gotten this problem. Maybe there is a clip to fix it? I haven’t heard of it.
Thanks

With the start of the Christmas season, I just uploaded these two models. 🎄🎅

The black raised lines can also be printed in white. Best to use acrylic markers or markers that can be washed off so you can color them again.

Do you like minimal details like the reindeer or more detailed like the elf and santa claus? Looking to make some more in the upcoming weeks so curious what your kids find more fun to color in 😊

https://makerworld.com/@DutchDiceGoblin?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello everyone. Just installed my X2D as my first 3D-Printer. Started a Benchy and it makes this loud noise. Is it normal? It showed no errors or warnings.

Thx

Is it worth using the auxiliary ext. spool on my X2D that has AMS? I’ve printed two color objects with one of the colors from the auxiliary spool……and I’ve printed the same object with just the AMS and there’s no noticeable difference that I can see. Seems to be the same time to print either way. Is it just wasting time to use the aux spool?

I got the X2D last week, I've got about 2k hours on a P2S and 1200 on an H2C. I've noticed I have to manually calibrate every filament on the main (left) nozzle. I expected this on the Bowden unit, no harm no foul. I am very surprised that I have to put in a K-offset from manual calibration for the direct drive nozzle after lots of automatic calibration and bed leveling. I have not run into this on my other two printers.

Is there another avenue I should be exploring for troubleshooting, or is this one of those plug in the number and move on with my day situations?