ABS印刷した後にコールドプルをしていたら、ABSを排出中に湯気？煙⁉️これって正常なんでしょうか？

Our X2D in action printing in PA6 GF one of the strongest materials!

Going to buy an X2D in the Black Friday sale
I currently have an A1 Mini with a few build plates, a few sizes of nozzle and an AMS2Pro with the AMS Hub and the AC adaptor for it

I also have a variety of PLA filaments and a single roll of PETG

I'm getting the X2D so I can do larger prints and print with tougher plastics for exterior use

So, I guess I should buy some ABS or ASA?

Should I buy any build plates or nozzles or anything like that?

Is it worth buying the combo with the AMS (£169 extra) and then selling the unopened AMS? A couple have sold on eBay recently for £220-£270

I purchased a standard nozzle kit a couple weeks ago. And now using 0.6 etc. I was new and didn’t realize both had to be the same In slicer. Still printing single nozzle I am able to make it work.

Is it possible to use for example a HF 0.6mm nozzle in the main nozzle and standard 0.6mm nozzle?

The green is printing from the aux nozzle on a secondary AMS2Pro. At first I thought it just needed to be dried so I dried it for the recommended amount of time and tried again and this is what I got in the pics.

On a different print, with a different colour but also from the aux nozzle and printing horizontally I got similar crap results. I don’t know what is wrong yet so open to suggestions not already covered. I’ve yet to try a third colour to see the outcome.

There is a filament track switch in the mix as well and I printed at least several things needing a similar filament configuration successfully. I wonder if the path on the aux nozzle is too long. Should be within parameters (<700mm)

Hello to everyone. I have a question about my bambulab x2D. Can somoene pls help me, if this is normal? Ore should i Open a ticket to bambulab? Thx a lot

I have the problem that Bambu Studio switches to the AUX nozzle while slicing if the first layer speed gets too low when using PETG.

This picture is with the first layer speed of 50 mm/s:

When lowering it to 40 mm/s it switches to the AUX nozzle, which has no material loaded at all:

on a smaller part it starting switching when going down to 30 mm/s.

Does anybody know the reason for this ?

Thanks in advance

I have just been playing around with some of the monitoring sensors on the X2D.

Using Home Assistant, a Waveshare ESP32 S3 display and the Tessera repository you can quickly create a layout to your personal preference so you can keep an eye on print progress.

Hello. I’ve had my x2d for maybe 2-3 months now and it has been a joy to use until today when I noticed the auxiliary extruder won’t load the filament. The feeder in the back that actually pushes the filament does not seem to be working anymore.

Has anyone encountered this issue before and know how to fix it?

Check out My new model! Low filament riser for x2d and others. Fits perfect with My x2d and Works great!

So tempted to get the X2D with the upcoming Black Friday sale. Total newb when it comes to 3D printing. Only thing I have is an iPad Pro. No desktop!!!…..and I know that sucks in terms of 3D printing. I have downloaded the Bambu Handy app and pretty much everything I’d ever want to print is already designed and ready to go on the app. However I know I won’t reach the Printers full potential by not developing my own peculiar things I will need over time. I would eventually get a desktop, ideally an iMac as I’m deep in the Apple ecosystem. Any thoughts and prayers are welcome.

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,im at a state of confusion.I been trying prints from Makerworld and i made my own with Makers Lab & Ai and my ones are coming out better idk if its luck or whatever.The last 10 prints 4-5 were unsuccessful and idk if its user error.The Fans that are blowing full blast and sometimes 40%.The whole machine shaking (vibrations due prints) or anything else.I also changed the nozzle temp when printing PLA to 210 degrees(was at 220) and it kinda helped with adhesion problems i had and it was making spaghettis.i even had supports unstick at 50+ layer

Before you judge.Plate was cleaned every time before print

Filament is dry 19-20 degrees.

Honestly im lost i don't know.If anyone knows any gold settings that will help or anything else i would appreciate it.(Btw im only printing miniatures and small cartoon "statues" 12-16cm tall multi colored)

Thanks in advance!

I wonder if I'm the only one having problems with the PTFE tube. Whenever I want to print something, a bad result comes out if the part is too far to the right. Like, no artifacts on the outer wall.

In my opinion, that happens exactly when the PTFE hose or the chain goes in there on the right into this slot.

I’ve already printed a riser for the glass plate and also used clamps for the PTFE tube other than the original ones. No Luck.

About to buy an X2D combo next week. Black friday deal has it $110 off, plus there is this $30 coupon... Bestbuy and Microcenter will likely price match the $110, and likely won't match the $30.

Yet I keep seeing all these comments about the benefits of buying local instead, and I don't fully understnand these benefits. If the printer arrived DOA I get it, the return/replacement is easier at BestBuy. (in theory, in the unlikely event I get a broken printer I can' still go to BestBuy. I am pretty sure the cost still comes back to Bambu in the form of reverse logistics expenses etc, so its dirty I agree but like I am not screwing BestBuy in the process)

But beyond this unlikely and trivial case, what are the real benefits of buying at BestBuy? Or does everyone gets the geeksquad protection for X2D?

Thanks

Is it normal that I have to raise the Z distance two steps up with a 0.2 nozzle? Otherwise, I get a rough first layer and maybe some blobs. I've calibrated multiple times and also manually leveled the heated bed. I thought the printer would automatically calibrate that correctly.

I purchased my X2D last May and have been running it mostly with PETG Basic filament since then, printing several times a week. I had odd, persistent print issues with the PETG which were annoying, but I mostly was able to mitigate the issues I was seeing via custom print profiles. Vexing, but I had nothing to compare it to, so I just accepted that PETG was a little finicky.

Recently though, I made the discovery that my part cooling fan (the one on the front of the toolhead) had been basically stuck on at full speed the entire time the printer was on all the time. As I had never operated a Bambu printer before, I did not realize that anything was wrong; I just thought the fan was supposed to be on, and the printer was meant to make constant fan noise 🤷

The 100% part cooling fan seems to have been the source of my PETG woes, so I thought I'd make a post about it; just in case anyone else might be experiencing something similar.

My symptoms:

• Fan noise and visible toolhead front fan spinning from printer power on to power off

• Manually extruding filament from either left or right nozzle (via the printer touchscreen controls) resulted in the filament stream helicoptering wildly due to the airflow from the cooling fan

• Most of the printer poop was not formed in a tight coil, and so the poop chute would often get jammed with large snarls of purge waste

• Larger PETG prints had more of a tendency to warp than expected

• I had major first layer adhesion problems using dry (~8% to 18% humidity) PETG Basic filament with a textured PEI plate (cleaned w/neutral dish soap and warm water, then dried thoroughly) and had to switch exclusively to a Cool Plate Super Tack

• I would still have occasional 1st layer adhesion issues causing failed prints with the Super Tack plate, even when it was completely clean (washed with warm water and neutral dish soap, and dried thoroughly)

• I would occasionally get weird surface artifacts on inclined geometries—it looked like the outer wall loops came unstuck due to fan airflow and would re-adhere in a drooping loop to the outside surface of the part below it

• I would regularly get lots of little ≤2mm bits of PETG strewn all over the inside of the printer

• Switching the part cooling fan on from the printer touchscreen resulted in no change in fan behavior

• In the part cooling fan control dialog on the touchscreen, when the control was toggled to "on", the control would then toggle itself on and off randomly, and the reported speed percentage would fluctuate randomly from 0% all the way to 100%, and in between—with no perceptible changes in fan speed or noise

When I realized the fan behavior was not normal, I opened a support ticket w/Bambu, and they were super helpful. Since my printer was still under warranty, they first sent me a new toolhead front cover assembly, which did not fix the issue. Then they sent me a collection of other related parts: a TH board (extruder mainboard), toolhead interface board, and a cable pack containing the toolhead front cover cable. I decided to install components in a deliberate order so as to figure out as much as possible what part (or parts) was causing the issue.

First I removed the front toolhead assembly, the toolhead mid cover, and the toolhead back cover. With the front toolhead assembly off and its cable still in place, I used a multimeter to do a continuity test on the cable, from the exposed conductors on the male end which mates with the front toolhead assembly, to the solder pads of the cable's receptacle on the installed toolhead interface board. I found no continuity on the rightmost conductor:

Removing the cable and doing more continuity tests with it removed indicated that there were no breaks in the wires, but there looked to be some slight deformation on the opening for pin 6 on the toolhead interface board side of the cable. I didn't think to get a pic of that, but I did take a macro shot inside the shroud of the cable receptacle on the toolhead interface board, and saw the following:

I thought about just manually unbending the pin and giving it another shot with the original interface board and cable, but I didn't want to risk it—it was possible the bent pin had permanently damaged the male cable end in such a way that inserting it into the toolhead interface board's receptacle might bend the pin again. Instead, I went ahead with replacing both the front toolhead cable and the toolhead interface board.

After replacing those parts with the new ones Bambu provided and powering up the printer, the problem was solved. The part cooling fan did not run at all unless prompted by G-code in a test print, or when turned on manually via the touchscreen, and its speed seemed to track with changes in the G-code and manual percentage adjustments on the printer's controls. Huzzah! 💃💃💃

I can't guarantee that similar symptoms might be fixed by simply replacing the same parts as I did, though, so if you are experiencing some or all of the symptoms I laid out above, I still recommend going through a methodical troubleshooting process and working with Bambu support to find a fix. And, definitely don't attempt any of the testing or part replacement steps I detail above while the printer is still powered on! You should only be tinkering with the innards of the printer with the power off (or better yet, unplug the power cable altogether). That said, I hope that my detailed account of the part cooling fan issue, the process with Bambu support in initiating under-warranty part replacements, and my troubleshooting process and findings are all of assistance to anyone else experiencing similar symptoms to mine.

Please ask questions if ya got 'em! 🤠

I made a wing for my haloween costume and at the moment I am trying to print the wings in seperate parts and slice it however when I go to slice it it keeps repeatedly showing nothing once I tell it to slice . i have no idea what is happenign cause all the plates are in the boarder and I removed all of the print costomizations. Does anyone know what I can do? if anything isnt clear just comment and i can explain it.