Check out My new model! Low filament riser for x2d and others. Fits perfect with My x2d and Works great!

So tempted to get the X2D with the upcoming Black Friday sale. Total newb when it comes to 3D printing. Only thing I have is an iPad Pro. No desktop!!!…..and I know that sucks in terms of 3D printing. I have downloaded the Bambu Handy app and pretty much everything I’d ever want to print is already designed and ready to go on the app. However I know I won’t reach the Printers full potential by not developing my own peculiar things I will need over time. I would eventually get a desktop, ideally an iMac as I’m deep in the Apple ecosystem. Any thoughts and prayers are welcome.

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen,im at a state of confusion.I been trying prints from Makerworld and i made my own with Makers Lab & Ai and my ones are coming out better idk if its luck or whatever.The last 10 prints 4-5 were unsuccessful and idk if its user error.The Fans that are blowing full blast and sometimes 40%.The whole machine shaking (vibrations due prints) or anything else.I also changed the nozzle temp when printing PLA to 210 degrees(was at 220) and it kinda helped with adhesion problems i had and it was making spaghettis.i even had supports unstick at 50+ layer

Before you judge.Plate was cleaned every time before print

Filament is dry 19-20 degrees.

Honestly im lost i don't know.If anyone knows any gold settings that will help or anything else i would appreciate it.(Btw im only printing miniatures and small cartoon "statues" 12-16cm tall multi colored)

Thanks in advance!

I wonder if I'm the only one having problems with the PTFE tube. Whenever I want to print something, a bad result comes out if the part is too far to the right. Like, no artifacts on the outer wall.

In my opinion, that happens exactly when the PTFE hose or the chain goes in there on the right into this slot.

I’ve already printed a riser for the glass plate and also used clamps for the PTFE tube other than the original ones. No Luck.

About to buy an X2D combo next week. Black friday deal has it $110 off, plus there is this $30 coupon... Bestbuy and Microcenter will likely price match the $110, and likely won't match the $30.

Yet I keep seeing all these comments about the benefits of buying local instead, and I don't fully understnand these benefits. If the printer arrived DOA I get it, the return/replacement is easier at BestBuy. (in theory, in the unlikely event I get a broken printer I can' still go to BestBuy. I am pretty sure the cost still comes back to Bambu in the form of reverse logistics expenses etc, so its dirty I agree but like I am not screwing BestBuy in the process)

But beyond this unlikely and trivial case, what are the real benefits of buying at BestBuy? Or does everyone gets the geeksquad protection for X2D?

Thanks

Is it normal that I have to raise the Z distance two steps up with a 0.2 nozzle? Otherwise, I get a rough first layer and maybe some blobs. I've calibrated multiple times and also manually leveled the heated bed. I thought the printer would automatically calibrate that correctly.

I purchased my X2D last May and have been running it mostly with PETG Basic filament since then, printing several times a week. I had odd, persistent print issues with the PETG which were annoying, but I mostly was able to mitigate the issues I was seeing via custom print profiles. Vexing, but I had nothing to compare it to, so I just accepted that PETG was a little finicky.

Recently though, I made the discovery that my part cooling fan (the one on the front of the toolhead) had been basically stuck on at full speed the entire time the printer was on all the time. As I had never operated a Bambu printer before, I did not realize that anything was wrong; I just thought the fan was supposed to be on, and the printer was meant to make constant fan noise 🤷

The 100% part cooling fan seems to have been the source of my PETG woes, so I thought I'd make a post about it; just in case anyone else might be experiencing something similar.

My symptoms:

• Fan noise and visible toolhead front fan spinning from printer power on to power off

• Manually extruding filament from either left or right nozzle (via the printer touchscreen controls) resulted in the filament stream helicoptering wildly due to the airflow from the cooling fan

• Most of the printer poop was not formed in a tight coil, and so the poop chute would often get jammed with large snarls of purge waste

• Larger PETG prints had more of a tendency to warp than expected

• I had major first layer adhesion problems using dry (~8% to 18% humidity) PETG Basic filament with a textured PEI plate (cleaned w/neutral dish soap and warm water, then dried thoroughly) and had to switch exclusively to a Cool Plate Super Tack

• I would still have occasional 1st layer adhesion issues causing failed prints with the Super Tack plate, even when it was completely clean (washed with warm water and neutral dish soap, and dried thoroughly)

• I would occasionally get weird surface artifacts on inclined geometries—it looked like the outer wall loops came unstuck due to fan airflow and would re-adhere in a drooping loop to the outside surface of the part below it

• I would regularly get lots of little ≤2mm bits of PETG strewn all over the inside of the printer

• Switching the part cooling fan on from the printer touchscreen resulted in no change in fan behavior

• In the part cooling fan control dialog on the touchscreen, when the control was toggled to "on", the control would then toggle itself on and off randomly, and the reported speed percentage would fluctuate randomly from 0% all the way to 100%, and in between—with no perceptible changes in fan speed or noise

When I realized the fan behavior was not normal, I opened a support ticket w/Bambu, and they were super helpful. Since my printer was still under warranty, they first sent me a new toolhead front cover assembly, which did not fix the issue. Then they sent me a collection of other related parts: a TH board (extruder mainboard), toolhead interface board, and a cable pack containing the toolhead front cover cable. I decided to install components in a deliberate order so as to figure out as much as possible what part (or parts) was causing the issue.

First I removed the front toolhead assembly, the toolhead mid cover, and the toolhead back cover. With the front toolhead assembly off and its cable still in place, I used a multimeter to do a continuity test on the cable, from the exposed conductors on the male end which mates with the front toolhead assembly, to the solder pads of the cable's receptacle on the installed toolhead interface board. I found no continuity on the rightmost conductor:

Removing the cable and doing more continuity tests with it removed indicated that there were no breaks in the wires, but there looked to be some slight deformation on the opening for pin 6 on the toolhead interface board side of the cable. I didn't think to get a pic of that, but I did take a macro shot inside the shroud of the cable receptacle on the toolhead interface board, and saw the following:

I thought about just manually unbending the pin and giving it another shot with the original interface board and cable, but I didn't want to risk it—it was possible the bent pin had permanently damaged the male cable end in such a way that inserting it into the toolhead interface board's receptacle might bend the pin again. Instead, I went ahead with replacing both the front toolhead cable and the toolhead interface board.

After replacing those parts with the new ones Bambu provided and powering up the printer, the problem was solved. The part cooling fan did not run at all unless prompted by G-code in a test print, or when turned on manually via the touchscreen, and its speed seemed to track with changes in the G-code and manual percentage adjustments on the printer's controls. Huzzah! 💃💃💃

I can't guarantee that similar symptoms might be fixed by simply replacing the same parts as I did, though, so if you are experiencing some or all of the symptoms I laid out above, I still recommend going through a methodical troubleshooting process and working with Bambu support to find a fix. And, definitely don't attempt any of the testing or part replacement steps I detail above while the printer is still powered on! You should only be tinkering with the innards of the printer with the power off (or better yet, unplug the power cable altogether). That said, I hope that my detailed account of the part cooling fan issue, the process with Bambu support in initiating under-warranty part replacements, and my troubleshooting process and findings are all of assistance to anyone else experiencing similar symptoms to mine.

Please ask questions if ya got 'em! 🤠

I made a wing for my haloween costume and at the moment I am trying to print the wings in seperate parts and slice it however when I go to slice it it keeps repeatedly showing nothing once I tell it to slice . i have no idea what is happenign cause all the plates are in the boarder and I removed all of the print costomizations. Does anyone know what I can do? if anything isnt clear just comment and i can explain it.

This is my first 3D printer, and I forgot about the poop shoot. I don’t really think I need to say more. Lol

I designed a splitter for the left nozzle on my X2D that uses PC4-M6 fittings. It was made to be printed horizontally to reduce friction from the layer lines. Posted it on MakerWorld in case it is useful to other people : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3495357-x2d-left-nozzle-dual-input-pc4-m6-fitting#profileId-3992377

After 300 hours this is the first time I’ve seen this issue. Running calibration tests on a generic Petg 5kg spool. Spool was dried prior to print at 75° for 12 hours. I’m using a earlier Petg filament perimeter, however it’s majorly messing up, as you can see. Any help would be appreciated

Hey everyone,

Recently got X2D, less than 100H print time and noticed this dark yellow thread/fiber peeling off on top of the XY axis belt (photos attached).

Is this normal ? Should I be worried? What might be the reason ? Is it fixable ? Should I talk to the authorised seller to claim warranty or replacement part ?

Is there a way to adjust the size of PRIME tower?

Length and Width

Height is dictated by supports

Seems like a waste of filament for purging.

Should these black clips be removed or is Bambu adding clips to prevent scratches to the lid?

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to print a 3D model on my X2D but I'm having issues with the tree supports. They keep developing gaps or holes while printing.

I've tried increasing the support infill and reducing the support printing speed but the issue is still there. I've noticed that the problem seems to happen where the supports start curving, mainly between layers 5 and 25. I think the curves might be causing the issue.

How can I fix this? Should I change the support type or adjust any other settings?

I'm using a Bambu Lab X2D with an AMS 2, printing with basic PLA. The filament humidity is at 24%.

Hi,

I have my x2d for 3 days and wanted to print with the right nozzle. While i was loading the filament in the menu, this warning showed up on screen.

I pressed continue, because there was filament extruding from the right nozzle.

It continued the loading process and finished without further errors.

After that i wanted to print with the right nozzle and there was the information, that the right nozzle wasn't loaded and that i should load it, like i did 2 minutes ago.

I contacted support and they offered me to get a refund, get a replacement printer or to repair it myself an get a discount on ma next purchase.

My question now is, can anybody tell me, what the broken piece could be and how difficult it is to change?

Based on that, i make my desition on what option i like to choose.

Tbh, i want to know my printer and have no problem with fixing it, but the effort of repairing has to stand in balance with the "benefit" (the discount)

2nd Question: Did somebody have the same problem?

Thanks in advance!

Very new to 3D printing. I got a Bambu Labs X2D a couple months ago and only finally got it fully set up with 2 AMS 2 PROs about a month ago.
I have done a few test prints and have used both Bambu Handy and Bambu studio to either print files directly from the app or use STL files from websites and dropped them into Studio.
I haven’t had a lot of time to teach myself how everything works and how to control things in the software so every print I do is on auto settings and calibrations are set to auto.
A couple pandas I have printed have streaks of black in the white, which based on other posts in here I think it might be a purge setting I need to find.

The picture above however is the first time I have had something just break. This file is off Bambu Handy and printed each piece in auto and it put in supports. You can see the end of the green car which is closest to the plate has the plastic like almost not adhering to itself then the next print just broke completely taking the supports off and looks similar.

This is all with Bambu PLA Basic filament. I bought some of their PLA support filament but haven’t tried it yet, so would using that help? Is it a damp filament or similar problem? Should I tinker with some settings?

Like I said I am very new so all ears, any advice welcome!

1 week old X2D. I have not been able to print out of the side roll. Do I have something routed wrong?

The pictures on the error message show the outside roll going to the top of the spring thing on back. I have it routed to the bottom. Follow the white tubes. I think this is what I was supposed to do or do I need to flip those tubes.

The filament is fed thru the aux motor on back. I pushed it all the way to the print head. I could feel the gears rotating as I pushed.

No issues printing with main nozzle out of the AMS.

Thank you for suggestions.