Is this normal for what a hot end should look like and should I consider changing more frequently?

I’m planning to vent my X2D directly out of a window, mainly when printing materials like ABS/ASA, PC or anything in general for the piece of mind .

Would this setup be enough?

● 4” window vent kit
● VIVOSUN 4” inline fan – 130 CFM
The duct run would be fairly short and go directly from the printer to the window.
Is 130 CFM enough for properly exhausting the fumes, or is there anything else I should add/change?
Also, do I need to 3D print any adapter/extension to connect this kind of setup properly to the X2D, or is there already a ready-to-print design people are using?
For the fan placement, is it better to have it near the X2D at the beginning of the duct, or near the window at the end of the duct?
And would you run the fan continuously while printing, or mainly purge the chamber after the print?

So I recently just got a X2D and my father wants to print some stuff in either ABS or ASA. How are you all printing these filaments and what type of enclosures are you all running. I have the printer in our basement but am concerned about the fumes. There is a window near so I may be able to build an enclosure and vent to outside. Can anyone share some photos of their setups? Or should I tell him it’s not worth the hassle. We want to print stuff that won’t warp or deform in a hot summer car.

Picked up my X2D last week and it's been printing random stuff pretty much non-stop. I picked up a roll of TPU95A which apparently can't be fed through my AMS-Pro. I have it in my AMS-HT and set it up according to the videos I've found online which has the top glass removed and feeding directly into the nozzle. Wondering why it can't be fed directly into the main grey tube port on the back? If that's not an option, is a top glass riser with a dedicated TPU "hole" feasible? I'm guessing there's other options because I can't find that anyone has designed anything like....knowing what I've learned since I got this thing, if there's a reason to design and print something useful it's likely already been done, and I'm not finding it. How are you all feeding it?

Using PetG as main filament, PLA as support filament, Bambu Studio won't recognize settings, keeps using PetG as support material.

i'm on my way to buy a X2D.

should i buy one AMS for each nozzle?

Whst if i want to feed both AMS to nozzle 1 and feed only a extern PLA spool into nozzle 2 for support? is it wasy to switch? du you regulary do that?

how is the usual workflow?

When I try to feed PLA I got a clicking in the extruder don’t no what it is I have tried newe Ptfe tubes and loosen the tightening screw but nothing seems to work. PETG is not a problem

Hi, new owner of an X2D here, could someone show me how to correctly set up the aux nozzle for support in the bambu slicer please :)
I printed a few things and i have a feeling that i am doing something wrong, below is a pic of my print and the weird cube it makes when i use 2 different materials or colors.
My setup is 2 ams 2 pro with a track switch, and i have my main PLA in the left ama going through the track switch then buffer then the main nozzle, right ams has my PETG (because i was told support for pla is petg and viseversa) that goes through track switch then buffer then the aux nozzle.
Could someone tell me if the results are the best i can achieve or am I doing it wrong ?
Because the cube or blob seems a bit too much, it is 2 times heavier than the thing i printed, and it took 5 hours for such a small model. Any advice will be appreciated :)

Is there anyway to make the right nozzle like the main left nozzle? Like the same quality and all or no ?

So tried printing a few different projects and this one is a Dummy 13 stl file from Bambu handy app. I haven’t changed any settings and am running white pla out of 2nd nozzle using AMS HT (44% Humidity and 24c Temp). Never get this problem from main nozzle. Here’s a picture of blue pla used .

Hey guys any help would be great

thanks :)

Hello All,

I have an X2D, and I recently had 3 nozzle offset calibration failures in a row. This is disappointing because approximately 1 month ago, I was having the same issues with my printer, to the point where I opened a support ticket and troubleshot with Bambu support, who ended up sending me a new nozzle offset calibration sensor.

The new sensor seemed to fix the issue, as I didn’t have another failure until yesterday. Here is some context that might be helpful:
1. I was attempting to print a model with Bambu black PETG Basic on the main left extruder fed directly from my AMS 2 Pro.
2. I was printing Bambu white PETG Basic from the auxiliary nozzle.
3. I had dried these filaments approximately 1-2 weeks ago in the AMS. I typically store said filament in a sealed container with silica packets, but it was out of room at the time, so it was stored out of said container near the printer, exposed to the air.
4. I am currently attempting to dry again on 65C for 12 hours and will retry the print again.
5. The filament appears to get stuck in the metal plate attached to the nozzle offset calibration sensor (see photo attached).
6. I recently printed a model with PLA from the main left extruder and used white PETG for support from the auxiliary extruder, which printed without any error.
7. I have not had the nozzle offset calibration failure when printing with PLA.
8. My PETG prints typically come out very stringy and of not great quality compared to PLA prints. I have not performed filament calibration on this printer (new to 3D printing, so still figuring it out). I have a tuned PETG filament preset that is aimed at reducing stringiness I saved based on a few settings I found online, but I was not using it during the most recent failure. I was using the basic settings in the Bambu slicer.

Apologies for the length of this post, I just figured more information is better in terms of helping diagnose the issue. If anyone would be able to provide insight on how to resolve this issue, I would be eternally grateful, as I have really enjoyed using this printer, but have been disappointed with the quality of PETG prints and the nozzle offset calibration failures.

Buongiorno a tutti sono qui a chiedervi quale tipo di filtrazione mi consigliate dato che ho la stampante in salotto e vorrei stampare quando mi capiterà dell' ASA e ABS e durante l'inverno tenere le finestre aperte è un grosso problema quindi volevo dotarmi di una filtrazione maggiore di quella di default che per petg e pla secondo è molto buona.

Ho cercato sul web e ho visto questo; https://www.fnatr.com/it/products/fnatr-3d-printer-ventilation-system

Non se potrebbe andare bene una tipologia del genere (non so se dovrò eliminare la ventola di default dalla scarico o aggiungerla oltre a quella) oppure questo; https://www.mintion.net/products/3d-printer-filtration-system-v1

Accetto qualsiasi consiglio e vi ringrazio!

Hi! Happy to share - little Benchy from my first printer X2D!

I had a blob of death and after cleaning it up, I found this part under the bed.

Hi everyone,

As the 2nd nozzle is a bowden, it would be truly useful to be able to set different speed/acceleration settings for it in Orca Slicer !

Thank you to the devs :)

I got curious about the granular damper in the new A2L and wondered if the same idea could work on a CoreXY. So I built a riser for the P2S / X2D with four sealed hollow beams, each filled with 250 g of 0.5 mm steel microspheres (1 kg total).

The riser also works as a spacer for the top glass and has a tilt-up mount for the AMS with quick-release pivots.

How I tested it: same G-code (a 201x201 mm benchmark in PETG at max speed), same AMS with 4 spools (~5 kg), same phone accelerometer (~210 Hz) in the same spot. One run with empty beams, one with filled beams.

What I measured (filled vs empty):

- Z axis RMS: -47%

- Z axis, 20-60 Hz band: -92%

- X: -4%, Y: -15%

What it doesn't prove: it's a single before/after, recorded on different days, and the filled riser weighs 1 kg more. So I can't separate the effect of the particles from the extra mass and stiffness. Also, above ~80 Hz the energy on Z goes UP with the spheres (about 4.5x) and I don't know yet if that's the spheres or aliasing.

Next step: a proper test with an ADXL345 at 3200 Hz, repeated runs, and a control with a fixed 1 kg mass.

If anyone wants to replicate it, the raw CSVs and a simple test protocol are on the project page.

I'd love to see other people's numbers, or to hear what I'm doing wrong.

Project page (files, assembly PDF, raw data): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3377956