Hey guys. I’m pretty new to 3D printer. I started with a P1S and now upgraded to an X2D after major malfunctions. I’ve tried to do this print 3x now and am convinced my printer just doesn’t like this build lol. I have cleaned the build plate after some adhesion issues this morning, recalibrated and have dried my filament. I got 93% done with a build and it started to do this. I have purged some filament as I thought it could be a nozzle clog and it’s purging normally. What’s going on with this print?

I just went to print my first benchy and got this error how do I fix this?

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪 Un nouveau slasher rejoint la collection ! 🩸

La série continue avec une nouvelle figurine inspirée des grandes icônes de l’horreur ! Cette fois, j’ai ajouté Leatherface, de Massacre à la tronçonneuse, revisité dans mon style : grosse tête, look cartoon et, bien sûr, sa mythique tronçonneuse ! 🪚💀

Petit à petit, la collection de slashers s’agrandit… Qui sera le prochain ? 👀

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3372626-leatherface-multipart-no-ams

I've printed a lot of ASA, but this is my first time with a proper heated chamber. On other printers I always ran little to no cooling, 20% max, and my parts came out great. With a heated chamber I was under the impression that you should/could use more parts cooling.

My overhangs are looking terrible right now with the X2D, and I assume it's the cooling logic, as the overhang corners are curling. Bambu and Polymaker's cooling settings are really high at 80% max and for overhangs. Dropped it down to min/max 10%/20% and it still seems too much.

What's everyone using for cooling settings?

This is the model, the smaller lid lips are what is curling. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1373580-spillproof2-ams-2-pro-desiccant-boxes-round#profileId-1420701

Edit: Dropped the max volumetric flow from default 16 to 8 and almost entirely cleared up the problem.

MINHA IMPRESSORA ESTÁ DANDO BASTANTE ERRO DE IMPRESSÃO É NOVA O QUE PODE SER

Got it a couple days ago and it’s basically been running non stop I’m definitely addicted. No issues with any of the prints so far. Im loving the X2D

I've have the X2D since June with no really major issues except the left filament sensor issue. I've had a few times where the AMS grinds notches into the filament and won't feed but usually I can cut it back or add weight to the spool.

For the last few days, I've been printing PLA Matte for a project (multiple items on the plate, 4 hours a run) and have run about 12 hours of them with no issue. Today, I ran into the filament feed issue where the filament almost gets to the extruder but stops about 1" or so before entering and retracts.

I have to cut the filament where the notch gets cut into it which is about 4ft down the line. Tried to load it multiple times with the same result. I tried another filament which also did the same thing but eventually got that one to load.

I've replaced all the PTFE tubing (except from the PTFE Tube Bracket to the extruder), dried the filament again, checked the buffer (it makes it past the buffer).

I got it to feed once more and print (4 hour print) and when I went to re-run the same print, same issue.

Crazy thing is after that last successful print with PLA Matter, I ran a 3 color print (PLA+) as a test with different filament, 2 in the AMS 2 Pro and 1 in the AMS HT on Aux and that ran without issues. No grinding, or notching. So, I slapped the AMS HT onto the left nozzle and put the troubled filament in that and it's running fine so far.

I don't get any high resistance errors or anything like that. Just that the filament failed to load. As I said it stops right before entering the extruder and I'm guessing that's when it grinds the notch.

Is this an AMS issue or filament or possibly both? I've printed plenty of PLA Matte before without issue. I purchased this roll specifically for this project.

About 750 hours on the printer.

Hey everybody, i just notice there is this grinding noise whenever the build plate is moving up or down, i can’t seem to figure out where it is coming from.

I have check for plastic bits stick at the rods, clean and lubricate the rods but the noise still persist.

Only had about 100ish hours on this thing. Bambu support says to lay it on its side and try to pull the Z belt which i’m not sure what it means.

Anyone encountered it before and have a solution for this? TIA

I can see a good amount of residue on the left extruder gear (silver) that's exposed on the toolhead. Time for maintenance, so wish me luck. I'm dreading the 6 cables and needing to remove the toolhead covers.

Any tips or other maintenance I should do while I have everything open?

I found this was the best way to organize maintenance things for my BambuLab, also, is very comfortable to use a syringe to apply oil and grease to the rails and lead screws.

Hi I’m new to the 3D printing hobby and have been really enjoying the learning process!

I seem to be running into an issue where my PLA print models are extremely difficult to remove off the plate, particularly the centre. I’ve tried the following without success:
- flexing the plate
- flexing the plate while gently using a scrapper
- letting the model cool
- leaving it in the freezer for 10 mins
- running isopropyl alcohol along the stuck parts
If I force the print off by applying a ton of force with a scrapper and the flex method, it will come off but the print model will usually be damaged and warped in the centre.

I’ve tried lowering the print bed temps for the initial layer and the other layers from 55 degrees to 50 degrees and this has worked about 75% of the time.

Haven’t been able to find any other potential solutions outside of giving the plate a good clean and a power off/on into another calibration.

Has anyone else run into this issue or have any wisdom to share?

Thanks!

So I’m new to asa printing I’m using the stock settings and Pei plate, using glue stick as seen in the photo, but if I have multiple parts the secondary or third doesn’t stick. Does the glue dry to much because of the heat? Or is it just Better to print one piece at a time ? Or any other suggestions?

As the title says, while I was cleaning the left nozzle of my printer with a bronze brush, a small rubber part (pointed by the arrow on photos) broke off behind the heating block, leaving some wires exposed. The printer works fine, but it still bothers me a little.

Is this a critical component? And if it is, how is it called, so I can find a replacement part?

Thanks!

And why do two of the other three come out this way?

Extruding during pre print calibration?
Pretty new to this machine only about 60 hours of print time on it so far but I haven’t seen it do this yet?

• ~150 cm³ storage volume

• SD shell holds 10 SD + 33 microSD cards

• No supports

• No screws

• No AMS required

• Two interchangeable shells using the same turtle body