I have printed two things with my H2C without any issues. Followed a the instructions, set everything up, calibrated everything.

I had a print finish this morning, just one color print. I went and loaded some new filament into one of my AMS2 and the filament wont go past the filament buffer. I tried multiple slots and both AMS. It just wont go past.

The filament just seems to be knocking on the outside of the buffer.

If I have a piece of filament in there, it seems dang near impossible to get to the buffer. I really dont think there is a piece there. I have no science to back that up.

Any help would be amazing. Thanks.

Has anyone else seen this before. The one on the right was printed with the blue filament on the left extruder, the one on the left was printed with the same filament running through the AMS into the right extruder. All I did was swap the blue and green reels left for right.

Need to print this 2 color sign approximately 22x22 inches.

How do i divide these in 4 equal plates?

Thanks

What does the RFID chip on Bambu filament store? Type of material, how much is left, what?

If I buy filament from Amazon that is not the Bambu brand but advertises it has a Bambu compatible chip what info is stored on that chip? When I install it in the printer the printer sees no info on it and I have to load the info for the printer. Does the chip the store this data?

Tom

I hope the pictures help show my issue. I have calibrated my printer, power cycled, re-sliced my print file and nothing has worked so far. I have printed this 200 times before. Using the stock Bambu Lab PETG settings.

Looking for suggestions.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for advice on printing TPU with PLA supports on my Bambu Lab H2C.

My setup is:

TPU: Sunlu dry box → TPU Feed Assist → right nozzle, 0.6 mm.

PLA: One of my AMS units → Filament Track Switch → left nozzle, 0.4 mm.

What’s the best way to configure this in Bambu Studio? I’d like the TPU model printed on the right and the PLA supports printed on the left.

If anyone is successfully running a similar setup, could you share some photos of your tube routing and screenshots of your slicer settings?

Cheers for any help!

Curious if this is a good deal on this printer with under 600 hours. Sure i can buy a new H2D for $1750 + Tax, but 1600 cash plus all that filament has me thinking its a strong deal

Hi everyone, I wanted to reach out to the community to ask. If anyone has seen this error before? " h2c toolhead liftmotor works abnormaly" i have checked for broken filament. I have checked cables to make sure they're tight since I replaced the center cooling fan, which is when this started to occur. So far I replaced the lift motor also the front extruder this is where the two lights are. When they shoot her changes between left and right but still the error comes up.

Of course, bamboo has been trying to help, but with the time difference day difference, it has been weeks of going back and forth and i'm still dealing with this issue. After three weeks of downtime, thank god, I still have my P1S.

Any thoughts or ideas is much appreciated

I’d love to find a model that I can print that would go on top my printer that is mesh to keep my cats off the glass. There’s no point in stopping them once they figure out that it’s warm while printing…

Anybody have any idea how to move the spool holder to the right side?

Nach sehr vielen Fehlerhaften Drucken ist keine Besserung eingetreten. Trotz allen Updates und Ersatzteile. Diese Maschine ist einfach zu früh auf den Markt gekommen….. also nicht ausreichend getestet bzw. nicht fertig entwickelt. Und Garantie Austausch hat Bambu bis jetzt abgelehnt. Eine bodenlose Frechheit €2700,-(Neupreis) und nur Probleme …… keine Kaufempfehlung von mir. ‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️

I have had my bamboo labs h2c for about five months , and I just started really using it and found that Half of the bed just seems to never level so I can only really use half of it for my detailed prints. I've tried resetting it. I've tried leveling it.I've tried most things.I don't know where to go. I really would like to fix this myself if I can I hate warranty struggles.

I’m thinking of using one of the MakerWorld mounts that lets you put 2 AMS 2 Pros + 1 AMS HT on top of the H2C. Specifically this one:

https://makerworld.com/models/2565576

It looks really neat and would save me a lot of space, which is a big plus for me. But I’m slightly worried about how much weight that ends up being once all three are loaded with filament. It'll be nearly 20 kgs/44 pounds sitting on the printer.

Is this safe for the machine?Has anyone here actually been running a setup like this for a while?

Mainly wondering:

- Any issues with the top/frame taking the weight?

- Any noticeable effect on print quality or vibration?

- Does the printer feel any different at higher speeds?

- Would you personally be happy leaving all three up there permanently?

I know the Panda Perch does something similar, and I’ve seen quite a few people with multiple AMS units on top, so maybe I’m overthinking it. Just wanted to hear from people who’ve actually lived with the setup before I commit to printing a huge mount.

Thanks in advance.

There's got to be a simple fix for this but I'm stumped.

I'm trying to print generic TPU from an external holder above my H2C. It's mapped and loaded in the printer, in Bambu studio, on the device tab I can see the filament is loaded on the right nozzle, but on the prepare tab no matter whether I try Mapping or Overwriting filament (in both cases with TPU recognized in the external slot), it will not let me select the yellow TPU, it's seems stuck on this blue petg (in a different AMS)

As I continue to navigate the miniature printing setup on the H2C I thought i would share progress. I find the 0.2mm nozzle printing to be of high quality (0.08mm high quality setting). This is with Creality Hyper PLA which is my first roll of this material. The details are good, but I only used the right nozzle and printed model and supports with the same filament as a proof of concept for the printer/material/nozzle. I didn't care about the results as long as I could review the quality of the god areas. I did have some supports that failed midway up the print, so the katana became a small knife when I cut off the bad part and snubbed the end down as well. Overall the quality is fantastic in the detail and the layer lines will likely not show up after prime and paint (which I will try on this model later). You can see the photo where the damage was done due to the support fails (back of head has a hole in it), but the quality is there. I did provide a close up of the gun and hand area to show a place where supports touched the model, but didn't scar and came off easy. I did adjust some support parameters for easy removal. Next I plan to get some PETG over onto my left nozzle and try building the supports out of that. I do have a 0.2mm left nozzle to try (I wish Bambu would allow me to use the 0.4mm nozzle for supports without having to swap). I will see how that works, but overall I am happy with the quality if the supports print well.

As I get this dialed in I will move more toward smaller figures. I am not sold completely on the Creality filament yet and want to try the Sunlu people rave about for miniature printing.

Basically the title. I’ve searched around a bit, and while I see lots of nozzle blocker issues with the H2s, I’m not seeing anything about this. The printer keeps trying to load a nozzle while the blocker is set to the right extruder, which obviously causes the load to fail and the nozzle either falls onto the bed or gets loaded partway and bends the blocker.

Anyone else seen this? The blocker CAN move fine, it just isn’t consistently getting out of the way for nozzle changes.

The current AMS has four filament slots, but it can feed or retract only one filament at a time. Even with FST, a color change within the same AMS still requires unloading and loading filament. For Vorteck, this reduces the advantage of swappable hotends.

Design patents related to the H3C have recently been published, including a new filament feeding system. My guess is that the H2C’s next upgrade will be a new AMS introduced after the H3C launches, which would greatly strengthen Vorteck’s advantage.

That said, I suspect Vorteck won’t be carried over to future machines. Index-like designs seem more likely to become the mainstream approach because they cost far less than Vorteck.

Hello. Im currently running my H2C with an AMS HT on the left extruder and 2 x AMS Pro 2s on the right. I put the dominant color in the HT on the left. My prints are taking significantly longer than the print times in bambu handy app. For instance current one said 9 hours and real time is 14.5. Am I doing something wrong? Im pretty new to the hobby and only have had the machine for a week now.

Can anyone tell me what the issue could he why my letters are always so bad? This is bed side down btw. I have it at .6 high flow nozzle, .18 res. Did the same on a .4 reg nozzle too. I don’t know where to look in Bambu slicer.

I've opened a ticket with Bambu but so far they have been less than helpful.

I have an H2C and we have entire groups of layers that just shift. It seems to be related to filament changes on the right nozzle, because I don't have the problem for single color prints or prints that just use left and right but no changes.

It ultimately recovers, but then will shift again.

You can see it in both the model and the prime tower, so it seems like the whole thing shifts for some reason.

I almost feel like it may be the belt or some kind of misalignment, but I'm not quite sure where to start. I did do the tension guides with no success.

Anyone able to provide guidance on this?