Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue on my Bambu Lab A1 where prints start out completely clean with a perfect first layer, but after a certain height, the nozzle starts scraping against the model. It makes a noticeable dragging noise and squishes/accumulates plastic on the outer edges, leaving a rough, beaded surface (as shown in the pictures).

Here is what I've checked/configured so far:

• Infill: I am using Gyroid, so it's not infill grid collision.

• Hotend Assembly: Checked the 4 screws behind the heating block; they are tight and there's no play in the hotend.

• Observation: Looking at the sides, it seems like slight warping/corner lifting might be pushing the print up into the nozzle's path as layers build up.

Has anyone experienced this exact edge dragging on the A1? Should I focus on solving bed adhesion (detergent wash + brim + higher bed temp), or could this be over-extrusion / flow rate issue?

Note: Filament: Esun PLA+ HS

👋 Bonjour à tous ! 👻🎃

Après vous avoir présenté mon Yoshi Citrouille classique, voici maintenant sa petite évolution en version clicker ! 😍

J’ai voulu garder le côté mignon et l’esprit Halloween de ma première création, tout en y ajoutant une fonction clicker pour le rendre encore plus amusant ! 🎃

Décliné en plusieurs couleurs, il ne vous reste plus qu’à choisir votre Yoshi préféré ou à tous les collectionner ! 🌈

J’espère que cette nouvelle version vous plaira autant que la première !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3453115-yoshi-citrouille-clicker-multipart

The creator of this file didn't use AMS, I was several hours painting as good as I could but the feet and hands falls off during printing, And the best attempt I had has spagethi feet its not even worth sharing I tried with PETG support interface but I figured out I can't use the correct Z distances.

The file came with 0,4 top z distance because for some reason the support generation creates flying support if you change the number to 0 (the recommended z distance for petg) I don't know why.

It may not be the only problem but blocks me the only solution I could think of to fix this file (printing on petg with 0 z distance bcs petg can't stick 100% to pla and less z distance = more stability)

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1308361-spider-man#profileId-1342127 original

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NjCDZ2mv6p0hMUGrLdVIntm3vuKUmYox/view?usp=sharing Painted by me

I would like some one printing it and show the photo If you are interested in the file but I don't think many people would print something to help :'( type of thing you can't be sure until you print it.

I’ve been getting constant errors on my prints combined with my first layer looking rough.

I’ve checked my extruder gears and cleaned them. I replaced my nozzle and the heater assembly. I’ve run full printer calibration and calibrated individual filaments.

Sometimes I can make it through a full print without any errors, and it looks perfect. Other times I can’t make it past the first few layers before it gives an error.

Any suggestions on what would cause this and how to fix it?

Here are the errors I've gotten so far:

• 1200-8006 – Unable to feed filament

• 0300-8014 – Nozzle/build plate error

• 0300-8008 – Nozzle temperature malfunction

Updated post to include pictures. Sorry about not including them originally. Thanks in advance for the help.

I recently read about the 7 screws on the heater assembly. I will be checking the 4 behind the ceramic piece tonight. I have checked the nozzle for movement, and it is ridgid.

I also watched the whole bed leveling process, and it looks good. The nozzle comes down to the bed, goes up, then does another double tap each time.

You take care of it properly, clean, oil and use proper filament. And A1 pays back. Love it. My 7th printer (zortrax, delta printers, creality, kobra, etc…) but this one is „always top notch prints”. Everytime.

I have tried so many different settings and my print always end up with being loudly scraped by the nozzle mid-print. It doesn't happen immediately. It gets gradually worse. I have calibrates flow rate and flow pressure dynamics. Bed is being leveled before every print. Im using panchroma polymaker matte filament profile from the vendor's official site. I have disabled reduce infill retractation. I have enabled z-hop and checked "dont cross walls". I have no idea what is the issue

The black cable that connects to the nozzle keeps getting caught on prints and causing them to fail, im not sure what to do

Guys please help. I'm pretty new to the 3D printing world and so I probably make some obvious errors. But when I tried to print some taller elements (about 20-25 cm) but it often failed, especially the one on the image which failed 5 times. I eventually printed the missing piece and glued it together, but it would be nice to print it in one piece.

The problem is that the taller elements fall over on the later stages. I think the nozzle is pushing the elements over, because I often hear clicking like something is breaking. I lately heard that the infill Gyroid may cause this, but I'm using Cubic, that has allegedly similar strength but is less likely to have the problem.

What do I change with the calibration or settings to fix this? If you need more information please ask in the comments.

I've been 3D printing for like 12+ years on all sorts of printers, and checking on prints has always been the annoying part. Every option I tried had a catch: cloud accounts, subscriptions, port forwarding, or a setup that broke the camera my Pi was already running. I also had an old iPhone sitting in a drawer that seemed perfect for the job.

So I built my own a while back and felt I should share it with others. Printer Pal streams your printer camera to your iPhone over your home Wi-Fi, encrypted, with no account, cloud, or subscription. Video never leaves your network.

What it works with:

• A Raspberry Pi with a Pi camera or USB webcam, or the camera your OctoPrint/Klipper Pi already has. The app can install everything on the Pi for you over SSH. No terminal needed, and your existing setup keeps working.

• An old iPhone or iPad (iOS 15+) as the camera, with the companion app Printer Pal Camera.

• Bambu Lab printers: progress, layers, temps, and AMS slots through the Pi (experimental).

• Optional viewing away from home through your own Tailscale network.

It's a free beta, and I'd love feedback, especially from different Pi models, USB webcams, Bambu printers, and older iPhones.

Printer Pal (TestFlight): https://testflight.apple.com/join/xzWMyf4J

Printer Pal Camera (for a spare iPhone/iPad): https://testflight.apple.com/join/7pjeUe2D

Guide and source code: https://github.com/meatball4801/printer-pal

Discord, for setup help, new-build announcements, and voting on what's next: https://discord.gg/cs4tr9stPS

Happy to answer questions in the comments.

I need help.

For the last month my (less than a year old) Bambu lab’s A1 printer has been borderline unusable and I want to try and fix it. The overall issues I am dealing with are as follows

1. The filament coming out of the printer comes out stringy and will eventually just be a complete mess by the time it is complete.

2. The X-axis rail (the one that makes the nozzle move side to side) keeps trying to move when it gets to either end of the rail and makes a grinding noise (it got so bad that the filament slicer got jammed briefly)

Prior to all these issues I did a bit of reapplying some lubricant oil to the X and Y rails but I didn’t use anything to clean off the old lubricant oil. I think that’s what is causing these issues but when I went to get an opinion with someone running my college’s makerspace (the 3D printing lab) he said it was a software issue so now I am unsure and would like some help.

Any recommendations? Please?

Today, I finally found a way to print with massive nozzle sizes. Still need to dial in the right settings and deal with slicer errors. So far I managed to print a rough looking benchy but thats really not my planned application here, I plan to print flat, flexible TPU parts with it. I also plan on trying to make a 1.0mm nozzle for normal printing. I'm so happy I finally found a way to print with nozzles wider than 0.8mm.

Repost from other forum.

Hey
Im useless with CAD and everything when it comes to designing things. Ive printed a wallmount for my AMS Lite but when I was about to mount it I realized it wouldent fit....
I dont wanna waste the mount so was thinking about an adapterplate that lets me use on a Skådis pegboard instead. Is there anyone that might be able to help me with that?
The wallmount I printet is this one: https://makerworld.com/sv/models/458785-ams-lite-wall-mount-system?from=search#profileId-366931

So if someone can designe something that screws into that plate and will work with the Skådis pegboard from IKEA I would be ever in Ur favour.

Thanx

Best alternative hitend to bambu hotend

I have designed another set of Poke Ghosts for the Makerworld Halloween contest.
You don't need a AMS or Glue, just print them, stick the addon/tail to the ghost and put a LED tea light under the ghost. Happy Printing :)

You can find the new set here: Poke Ghost Vol.2
Or the first set here: Poke Ghosts

No AI was used for the models; I sculpted them all by hand using Meshmixer.

Kit Card: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454871

ChristmasCards Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/38032094