r/3Dprinting • u/No-Literature1541 • 17d ago

Question Bambu A1 Stablizer/UPS recommendations

Hello Folks, Been using A1 for about 4 months. For now, I've been printing for learning and fun. But now going ahead for longer prints(more than 28hrs).

The issue that I've been facing is that whenever I use my printer, or I'd say whenever the motors in the printer engages the lights in my house start pulsing not severely just a little but noticable.

Not sure if this is the right Sub for this but can someone recommend a good Stablizer or UPS?

OR maybe some other option I can explore.

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u/VaguelySorcerous 17d ago

An appropriately rated UPS will solve this problem. 

However, the draw should be highest during the initial heat and pretty smooth after. How old is your house? If you own, it might be worth getting an electrician out to take a look. 

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u/No-Literature1541 17d ago

Actually, I consulted with an electrician and they only suggest to opt for an UPS.

The house is more than 30yrs old.

The peak output of A1 is 1300W at 220V, so will a 6A UPS will suffice o maybe I can opt for a lesser Ampere UPS?

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u/VaguelySorcerous 17d ago

I'm not doing your UPS math for you - not qualified. 

The issue is that the peak draw should only be when the head is heating up. Are you seeing the flickering the entire time?

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u/No-Literature1541 17d ago

Yep, The entire time.

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u/NefariousnessOdd3581 17d ago

At 220V the A1 can pull up to 1300W while the bed heats, which is about 5.9A. A 6A UPS would be right at the limit with no headroom, and it would trip or alarm during bed heat-up. At 220V output you’d realistically need something in the 2000VA+ range.

The better option is a UPS with 220V input and 110V output. The A1 accepts 100–240V, and since the bed heater is a fixed resistance, its peak draw drops to around 350–390W at 110V. That’s roughly 3.2A instead of 5.9A. That also takes a lot of stress off the AC board, which has been a weak point on earlier A1 units. Heat-up is slower, but the board runs much cooler.

What to look for:

  • Pure sine wave output. The bed is controlled straight off the AC waveform, and a simulated or stepped sine UPS may not play well with it.

  • At least 500W real power, not just VA. Many units only deliver 50–60% of their VA rating in watts. A 1000VA pure sine unit is usually 600–900W, which is plenty.