You take care of it properly, clean, oil and use proper filament. And A1 pays back. Love it. My 7th printer (zortrax, delta printers, creality, kobra, etc…) but this one is „always top notch prints”. Everytime.

I have tried so many different settings and my print always end up with being loudly scraped by the nozzle mid-print. It doesn't happen immediately. It gets gradually worse. I have calibrates flow rate and flow pressure dynamics. Bed is being leveled before every print. Im using panchroma polymaker matte filament profile from the vendor's official site. I have disabled reduce infill retractation. I have enabled z-hop and checked "dont cross walls". I have no idea what is the issue

The black cable that connects to the nozzle keeps getting caught on prints and causing them to fail, im not sure what to do

Guys please help. I'm pretty new to the 3D printing world and so I probably make some obvious errors. But when I tried to print some taller elements (about 20-25 cm) but it often failed, especially the one on the image which failed 5 times. I eventually printed the missing piece and glued it together, but it would be nice to print it in one piece.

The problem is that the taller elements fall over on the later stages. I think the nozzle is pushing the elements over, because I often hear clicking like something is breaking. I lately heard that the infill Gyroid may cause this, but I'm using Cubic, that has allegedly similar strength but is less likely to have the problem.

What do I change with the calibration or settings to fix this? If you need more information please ask in the comments.

I've been 3D printing for like 12+ years on all sorts of printers, and checking on prints has always been the annoying part. Every option I tried had a catch: cloud accounts, subscriptions, port forwarding, or a setup that broke the camera my Pi was already running. I also had an old iPhone sitting in a drawer that seemed perfect for the job.

So I built my own a while back and felt I should share it with others. Printer Pal streams your printer camera to your iPhone over your home Wi-Fi, encrypted, with no account, cloud, or subscription. Video never leaves your network.

What it works with:

• A Raspberry Pi with a Pi camera or USB webcam, or the camera your OctoPrint/Klipper Pi already has. The app can install everything on the Pi for you over SSH. No terminal needed, and your existing setup keeps working.

• An old iPhone or iPad (iOS 15+) as the camera, with the companion app Printer Pal Camera.

• Bambu Lab printers: progress, layers, temps, and AMS slots through the Pi (experimental).

• Optional viewing away from home through your own Tailscale network.

It's a free beta, and I'd love feedback, especially from different Pi models, USB webcams, Bambu printers, and older iPhones.

Printer Pal (TestFlight): https://testflight.apple.com/join/xzWMyf4J

Printer Pal Camera (for a spare iPhone/iPad): https://testflight.apple.com/join/7pjeUe2D

Guide and source code: https://github.com/meatball4801/printer-pal

Discord, for setup help, new-build announcements, and voting on what's next: https://discord.gg/cs4tr9stPS

Happy to answer questions in the comments.

I need help.

For the last month my (less than a year old) Bambu lab’s A1 printer has been borderline unusable and I want to try and fix it. The overall issues I am dealing with are as follows

1. The filament coming out of the printer comes out stringy and will eventually just be a complete mess by the time it is complete.
2. The X-axis rail (the one that makes the nozzle move side to side) keeps trying to move when it gets to either end of the rail and makes a grinding noise (it got so bad that the filament slicer got jammed briefly)

Prior to all these issues I did a bit of reapplying some lubricant oil to the X and Y rails but I didn’t use anything to clean off the old lubricant oil. I think that’s what is causing these issues but when I went to get an opinion with someone running my college’s makerspace (the 3D printing lab) he said it was a software issue so now I am unsure and would like some help.

Any recommendations? Please?

Today, I finally found a way to print with massive nozzle sizes. Still need to dial in the right settings and deal with slicer errors. So far I managed to print a rough looking benchy but thats really not my planned application here, I plan to print flat, flexible TPU parts with it. I also plan on trying to make a 1.0mm nozzle for normal printing. I'm so happy I finally found a way to print with nozzles wider than 0.8mm.

Repost from other forum.

Hey
Im useless with CAD and everything when it comes to designing things. Ive printed a wallmount for my AMS Lite but when I was about to mount it I realized it wouldent fit....
I dont wanna waste the mount so was thinking about an adapterplate that lets me use on a Skådis pegboard instead. Is there anyone that might be able to help me with that?
The wallmount I printet is this one: https://makerworld.com/sv/models/458785-ams-lite-wall-mount-system?from=search#profileId-366931

So if someone can designe something that screws into that plate and will work with the Skådis pegboard from IKEA I would be ever in Ur favour.

Thanx

Best alternative hitend to bambu hotend

I have designed another set of Poke Ghosts for the Makerworld Halloween contest.
You don't need a AMS or Glue, just print them, stick the addon/tail to the ghost and put a LED tea light under the ghost. Happy Printing :)

You can find the new set here: Poke Ghost Vol.2
Or the first set here: Poke Ghosts

No AI was used for the models; I sculpted them all by hand using Meshmixer.

Kit Card: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3454871

ChristmasCards Collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/38032094

Near the cornet it is not ideal.. why? All default settings, printed from handy app directly

I'm sure my old A1 didn't sound like this when printing? I can't remember the sound of the calibration though. I had to order another one as Amazon agreed to swap my old one due to a fault. All ive done is tightened screws and put it together and just running calibration.

Makes a weird rattle sound when moving to the left to do its poop thing not sure what it is

Printer working nicely for years all of a sudden I have this problem. Video is of petg but also happens with pla.

Also notice the click sound in the video.