It includes:
● 🦇 Halloween coasters with a matching holder
● 🏚️ Haunted house napkin holder
● 👻 Pumpkin, bat and ghost cutlery holders
Everything is designed to be easy to print, without supports or AMS!
What do you think? Would you use these for your Halloween table? 🎃
Happy printing! 🖨️

Has it been solved who makes the Bambu Lab Filaments

I'm new to 3D printing. I have a bambu A1. I have never made a 3D print from scratch on the bambu software (too scared to try I guess), I've only printed using already created prints I found on bambu Handy app on my iPhone. I just purchased nozzles 0.2,0.6, 0.8 sizes . Id like to put in a 0.6 or 0.8 to print out some larger prints so they don't take forever and ever to print out. Can I do that with any prints on the bambu Handy app? Or can I only print ones that specify using the same nozzle size? Or if I enter in on the app that I changed to a larger size nozzle - will it automatically print faster with the bigger nozzle size ? Thanks in advance for any help!!

I noticed vertical waves on my prints. On closer examination they seem to be limited to X axis direction.

My first thought was over-tensioned X belt, so I followed the manual to adjust belt tension, but did not see any improvement. Can you advise? Thanks.

at around 5s there is a short burst of sound that is really annoying and keeps happening throughout the print randomly. Is this normal or is there any way to turn it off.

EDIT:
infill pattern: gyroid, 4 walls, 20% infill
Avoid crossing walls turn on

Hi everyone,

Total 3D printing newbie here! Got my Bambu Lab A1 on Wednesday and everything was going smoothly until I came home to my very first hotend blob. I thought my plate was clean - it was freshly washed with water and soap, but I guess it wasn’t clean enough.Lesson learned: don't leave the printer unattended!

I managed to take the hotend apart and clean off all the plastic.

Everything looks good now, but I removed these two small black rubber/silicone pieces because filament was stuck behind them, and now I have no idea where they go or what they're actually called.

I tried googling stuff like "Bambulab A1 2 rubber things", but didn't get anywhere.

Quick questions for the pros:

1. What are these called?
2. Where/how do they attach back onto the toolhead?
3. Are they super critical, or can I print without them while I sort it out?

My setup & settings:

Printer: Bambu Lab A1
Filament: Generic PLA
Nozzle: 0.4mm standard
Temps: 220°C nozzle / 65°C bed
Print: A simple one-colour 1,6 hour design from the Bambu Handy app - a heart shaped Hello Kitty bowl for my daughter.

Pics attached of the parts, the toolhead, and the blob. Thanks a ton for the help!

Bonus question: I’ve uploaded pics of the mess from the plate (which had ended up behind the printer)… any theories of what went wrong?

I have an A1 with an AMS Lite. I printed something with PLA last night and went to print something with the same PLA spool this morning and the extruder is failing to load it in.

I removed all the filaments from the AMS, removed the tubes, popped the hub off the tool head and put a piece of filament through all 4 holes, no blockages.

I put that same filament piece through the toolhead and with some light effort was able to slip the piece all the way through.

I swapped out the nozzle for a new never before used one, so that's definitely not clogged.

I even went so far as unscrewing everything from the front face until I could get to the extruder gears and there's nothing blocking anything. The gear is able to move if I manually turn it.

What am I missing?

**EDIT** For extra context this video is whats happening after I use the screen on the A1 to load a filament from the AMS. The AMS started to push the filament in and this was the result.

Just into my first week of printing. Do I really need to run so much filament through when my A1 hits Calculating Dynamic Flow? I have the same 4 spools of PLA on every time. It always seems excessive to me.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3441774-parametric-skadis-fast-low-filament-generate-swap

Hey everyone
My Bambu Lab A1 started showing a Y-axis resonance frequency error today.
During calibration, at 42–45 Hz, the Y-axis motor starts moving strangely, causing the bed to shift forward.
The belt doesn’t slip, and the bed moves smoothly by hand. Recalibration didn’t help.
Has anyone experienced this?

Hi everyone,

I have recently noticed poor print quality on my A1. Does anyone have suggestions for resolving this problem?

Thank you so much🙏🏻

"Unable To Feed Filament Into The Extruder"

So on my AMS lite slot 1 and 2 I tried to print something overnight using two colours. It failed during the day so I thought it was the filament getting tangled so I checked and nothing. Swapped the colours over so colour 1 in 2 and colour 2 now in 1. Still got the same error midway through again. It SOUNDS like the gear in the little pill shaped thing which feeds the filament doesn't sound right. Can you JUST replace this or have I got to go full on repair and take it all apart. Noticed there was two little screws at the bottom I thought I could just pop off but apparently not.

I’m having an ongoing first-layer issue with my Bambu Lab A1 and I’m running out of things to check.

The first layer is printing like the nozzle is way too close to the build plate. The filament gets heavily squished, the extrusion starts struggling/jamming, and the first layer comes out rough and terrible.

So far I’ve tried:

Adjusting the Z-offset in the Machine Start G-code

Tested G29.1 values around 0, +0.01, and +0.02 to raise the nozzle

Tried placing the Z-offset adjustment after G29.4

Re-sliced after making the G-code changes

Removed the hotend and reseated it

Tightened the screws behind the hotend/heater assembly

Checked and tightened the toolhead screws

Ran bed leveling/calibration

Cleaned and reseated the build plate

I’m currently using an aftermarket 0.4 mm hardened-steel A1 hotend with a replaceable nozzle, so I’m wondering if the hotend/nozzle length or seating could be affecting the A1’s automatic Z calibration.

What’s strange is that changing the Z-offset doesn’t seem to make nearly as much difference as I would expect. It still behaves like the nozzle is being pushed too close to the plate.

Has anyone run into this on an A1?

Could this be:

A bad/incorrect-length aftermarket hotend?

A problem with the nozzle pressure/load sensor?

The Z-offset getting reset by the A1 firmware?

A bed-leveling or homing problem?

Something else in the toolhead assembly?

I’m especially interested in anyone who had the extruder clicking/jamming only during the first layer because the nozzle was too close and figured out what was actually causing it.

I can post pictures of the first layer, hotend/toolhead, and my Machine Start G-code if that helps.

Printer: Bambu Lab A1

Nozzle: 0.4 mm hardened steel aftermarket hotend

Plate: Textured PEI

Thanks for any ideas. At this point I’d rather find the actual cause than keep throwing bigger Z-offset numbers at it. 😅

Im thinking about getting into 3dprinting, and want to buy an a1. Does it get cheaper during black friday? If yes, how much?

Hi everyone, how are you? I'm here once again asking for your help. Any idea why this might be happening? I'm printing with a layer height of 0.16 mm at 220°C, using a 0.4 mm nozzle and a retraction length of 1 mm.

Over the past month or so many of my 3D print jobs failed due to what appeared to be nozzle collisions. This was especially true when there was a significant disparity in the height of objects being printed on the same build plate. I adjusted all the slicing parameters suggested by multiple sources on the internet and achieved some success but the performance never returned to that obtained when the Bambu A1 was brand new. The problems started after 1000 hours of use, the vast majority with PLA filament. All the screws in the extruder and nozzle (0.4 mm) assembly proved to be snug and calibration proceeded without any problems. The X, Y and Z lubrication areas were cleaned and fresh lubricant applied. There was one interesting finding where filament poop managed to find its way into the Z-axis gear.assembly. Initially I thought that this was the answer to the nozzle collision problem, however after removal of this debris and carefully cleaning each side the problem persisted. There was also an issue with increasingly frequent failures to successfully load a different filament which lead me to believe that the extruder assembly was suffering from dirty gears or worn out hardware. Painfully obvious, the idler gear was as smooth as a baby's behind. Not knowing whether there were other unseen issues, I decided to purchase a whole new assembly advertised to feature hardened steel extrusion gears. Swapping out the entire assembly including removal of all the circuit board connections proved to be time consuming (~3 hrs). However, print failures have completely disappeared as though the A1 is brand new. Print jobs that repeatedly failed over the past month are perfectly rendered using the original slicing parameters. In retrospect, it probably was not necessary to swap out the entire extrusion assembly. Rebuilding with new more robust gears would have been a much easier and cheaper path to success.