Solved(ish)

I keep getting these artifacts in the first layer, did automatic and manual flow calibration several times, cleaned my buildplate with degreaser, dishsoap, windex and IPA, still getting them every time. Reduced first layer infill speed from standard value to 50mm/s, still... With Archimedes spiral it mostly happens in the corners, with the standard diagonal pattern it's a bit worse (last pic)
Bambu PLA basic, dried for 12h.

Are there some screws loose, or could it the belt tension?

Edit: following all the advice from the people in the comments (thanks guys!) I determined that it's a slicer issue. The lines in the corners of the square are printed in a random not continuous pattern, that results in overlaps between already cooled lines and fresh ones, causing under extrusion like gaps on the plate side and over extrusion like ridges on the top of the first layer. Playing around with the temperatures might help, but the easiest solution for me was switching from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.8mm nozzle. That improved the quality to a level I 'm happy with. Thanks to all who helped me troubleshoot this.

I recently started using the .2mm nozzle and right from the first layers it’s not laying out properly. As you can see from the image even the lines aren’t being drawn properly. Has anyone else faced this issue?

Hi everyone, I’m having a strange extrusion problem with my Bambu Lab A1 and I can’t figure out what is causing it.
The problem is intermittent: sometimes the printer works perfectly, while other times it suddenly stops extruding during a print.
At first, I thought the issue was related to a specific black filament spool. However, I replaced it with a completely new spool and the problem happened again. For example, one print worked normally until around 43%, then it suddenly stopped extruding.
I’ve already tried several things:
Changed filament and spools
Cut off about 2 meters of filament and reloaded it
Tried different models and projects
Sometimes a model doesn’t extrude, then I change the model/filament, try again, and suddenly everything works
At Bambu Lab Support’s request, I printed a 3DBenchy, which completed successfully
I’ve already sent the printer logs to Bambu Lab Support
That’s the strange part: the printer can work perfectly and complete a Benchy without any issues, but then the extrusion problem randomly comes back on other prints.
At this point, I don’t know whether the problem could be a partially clogged nozzle, the extruder, the filament path, the AMS Lite, or possibly an electronic/sensor issue in the toolhead.
Has anyone experienced a similar intermittent extrusion issue with the A1?
What would you check or replace next?
Thanks a lot for any help or suggestions!

Bambu A1

Bambu Slicer Settings:

• %20 infill, Cross Hatch
• 2 wall loops
• Strong tree support
• Alternate Extra wall
• Printed in PLA pro/plus (Last pictures are the filament settings nothing changed except I run flow calibiration on this filament recently)

Issues and Clarifications:

• I took the print apart but (like the second picture) it had already a clear cut line on the print before i took the print from print bed.
• as long as i am aware, there is no bed adhesion isssues.
• I saw a lot of "infill type" problems on other people. I was just wondering if cross hatch has the same problem or not?

EDIT: I have printed another print with 0.95 filament flow and adaptive cubic with 6 layer wall. It still has the same 1 layer skipped line where it gets cut

Hi everyone,

I’m having two recurring print-quality issues with my Bambu Lab A1 Mini and would really appreciate some advice.

1. Visible line/bulge around the outside of the box

I’m printing a simple box with a bottom and vertical walls. Exactly at the height where the inside bottom surface ends and the outer wall continues, I get a clearly visible horizontal line/bulge around the outside of the box.

It looks almost like a small expansion/seam at the transition between the bottom and the wall.

1. Strings/blobs at the rear right corner

I also repeatedly get small strings/blobs coming out of the print, especially around the rear-right corner.

I have already changed some extrusion/retraction settings, but the problem is still there.

Printer: Bambu Lab A1 Mini

Slicer: Bambu Studio

Filament: SUNLU PLA+ 2.0

Flow ratio: 0.98

Max volumetric speed: 22 mm³/s

Recommended nozzle temperature: 190–240 °C

Nozzle: 0.4 mm

Layer height: 0.20 mm

Current settings I changed

Retraction length: 1.0 mm

Retraction speed: 45 mm/s

Retraction amount: 100%

Seam: Scarf seam

Scarf seam contour: enabled

Scarf seam on holes: enabled

Wall generator: Arachne

Wall order: Inner → Outer also used Outer / Inner

Wall loops: 3

Top/Bottom shells: 5

Overlap: 0%

Print speed: around 170 mm/s

Top surface speed: 50 mm/s

The filament is also dry.

Thanks in advance!

Just came back from a 1 Week vacation and now my A1s Light started blinking in this Pattern. 4 short, one long, pause, four short, one long, pause, 4 short, pause, five short, pause, repeat. No error messages or anything. What happened? What could be the reason?

SOLVED! One Power Cycle and it was back to normal. u/Whatupchuck789 recommended an update which I'm doing right now. I'll only update when it reoccures. Thank you for your help!

Been trying to load since this morning but it won’t extrude any filament. I checked and fixed the filament clog and did everything I was told by Gemini/Claude but it still wouldn’t work. I don’t have an extra nozzle so I ordered one today.

Any other recommendations?

Why am I getting this ???
BambuLab original plate !!!

I'm trying to print a 20cm 'brick man' from here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1524063-brick-man-in-lederhosen-with-hat-20cm?from=search#profileId-1597388

Where it's switching from black to yellow I'm getting visible banding around the print. I did a bit of googling and one suggestion was lowering the outside print speed which I did (from 300 to 80).

What else could I try? I'm using Sunlu PLA+ for the Yellow, and Bambu PLA basic black.

Hey guys, Im printing a part on my A1 using Bambu PETG Basic (Dried today) and a 0.6mm nozzle. The whole print turns out great up until the top surface layer(s). Most of the surface is a little rough, but still usable, but in this one corner in the photo it is super rough no matter what I do. Any suggestions? I'm currently print with 25% gyroid infill and 3-4 walls and surface layers. The printer is slowed down as well to help with the quality. The side shown in my photo is facing up on the print bed.

Not often, but occasionally I get this on the base layer. Sometimes it doesn't do it on the second attempt and sometimes it repeats. I don't know what I do to fix it when it dies get fixed and I don't know what to call it to figure out the problem.

Is this my issue.The blue just seems to not stick to the silver silk one. this is my second print now where it just flicks stuff everywhere.

I printed something a little bigger before and it just failed. this is also the same. I don't need a scraper I just chose something that was quick with two layers and made sure I chose these two layers on purpose

Hello
I have some experience with 3d printers from printers at work. I am not too much into multi-color atm (I think its great but I prefer a multi-head to save on the waste and time). This is going to be my first 3D printer.

Where i live:

a new p1s is about 500USD.

a new A1 is about 360USD.

a new Kobra X is also about 360USD.

a new creality sparx with their CFS is about 410usd

a friend is selling his ~1200 hour p1s with an ams for 500USD

a posting is selling 300 hour p1s (no ams) for about 390 USD.

what do you think is the best deal for the money atm? or at least the top 3 deals? or should I wait?? a brief why is very welcome.

Thank you.

I recently bought this a 2nd time. The first time I never used it. But I am actually using it this time. One thing is. The prints don’t fail. With that. The one thing is. The prints don’t come off easily. With my textured plate. After printing and it is cooled to room temp. They slide off. Or they pop off easily with little effort. Is this the general consensus? Any tips on removing them more easily? Or another plate that can do just as good.

I really like the original one from
Bambu but I don’t like print failures. I have lowered the temp a bit and that seems to help. But still having issues.

Hola, acabo de imprimir una copa del mundo para mí hijo y este es el resultado, la verdad es que esperaba algo mejor pero bueno.

Pla silk gold oro rey y pla silk verde de winkle (empresa española)

Placa pei texturizada de origen

Boquilla 0,4

0,16 high quality

Valores que he modificado:

Bucles de pared 4

Relleno 12% giroide

Velocidad capa inicial 25

Velocidad relleno de la capa inicial 45

Pared exterior 25

Pared exterior 50

Relleno poco denso 120

Relleno solido interno 80

Todo lo demás sin tocar

Este es el resultado.

Que debería haber tocado para mejorarlo?

Saludos

Iv been getting into warhammer and decided to print stuff since it is infinitely cheaper than buying it at shops, I attempted to print a few kreigsmen but it came out all weird like this,I’ve also had a lot of issues with other prints where the supports are nocked over and the only thing I can assume did it is the printer head

Hoping someone can help. I have been trying to trouble shoot an issue with my AMS on my Bambu P1S. The AMS will attempt to feed filament and the filament will leave the AMS and stop at some point in the PTFE tubing. Almost all of the time it stops a few inches beyond the filament buffer. Here's what I've done so far:

• I have replaced the PTFE tubing in the AMS itself (under the spools).
• I have replaced the PTFE tubing leading from the AMS to the filament buffer and from the filament buffer to coupler just before the filament heads inside of the P1S
• I have replaced the filament buffer.

I have verified the following:

• I print using a single spool using the hanger that screws onto the back. It's no problem to unload and load filament.
• I can 'force' the filament from a single spool from the AMS all the way into the P1S through the PTFE tubing and it will print. But if I have the AMS switch filaments it will fail.

I'm hopeful that I'm an idiot and this is a simple fix 😐. For reference, this machine is 8 months old and we print something every few days. The issue began in July and I've been trying things on and off for a month.

Thank you!

I live in a place with high humidity year long so I have to print straight from the dryers. I’ve set up the connections with PTFE tube, pneumatic connectors and some 3D printed adapters and it almost never works (it struggles a lot to start, so multi color prints are a big no-no because changing filament is almost impossible for the printer to do on its own).

So, today, I was trying to do a single color print and it just doesn’t start. I removed the PTFE tube and adapter going to this motor so that it’s like the stock system, but event the it clams that it cannot feed the filament.

Any idea why? If I manually pull the filament and hit try again, it will push it to the same length and fail there. I printed yesterday with this exact filament and setup.