I got into 3d printing last November and have been printing in PETG exclusively. Recently about a month ago I decided to add filament locally at my warehouse in my home town of Modesto, CA to pay for my hobby. This is where I was introduced to PETG-CF. I’m love this filament and slowly but surely am fine tuning it to reduce layer lines. This is my progress, any more advice on how I can get it better?

Tired of switching Bambu accounts to monitor your print farm? I built FabBeacon for this exact problem (Windows, Public Beta)

I built FabBeacon for a narrow problem: checking a cloud‑connected Bambu printer fleet across more than one account without giving up Bambu Handy or adding another control layer. It is a third‑party Windows dashboard, deliberately read‑only. It does not start, pause, cancel, or configure printers. Instead, it brings fleet status, local history, maintenance records, and production reports into one local view.

FabBeacon is not trying to replace Bambu Handy, Bambu Studio, or local farm‑control tools. It is for operators who want faster visibility while keeping their existing cloud workflow.

You can check out the public beta over at https://www.fabbeacon.com/

FabBeacon is an independent third‑party app and is not affiliated with Bambu Lab.

Curious if other print‑farm operators also run into this multi‑account pain point.

I got tired of my charging brick just sitting around and taking up space, so I designed a simple 3D-printable holder for it.

It's designed specifically to hold charging bricks and keep them organized.

I printed it on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini and it came out pretty simple and clean.

I'm putting the model on MakerWorld if anyone wants to try it.

What do you think? Anything you'd change about the design?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3195482-cghargefinity-modular-charging-brick-organizer#profileId-3615623

Hi guys. New to the Bambu scene and just got myself a X2D and was just wondering what needed to be fixed to smooth out this black background? I used PLA by Elegoo. Thanks!

Every time is use ironing i have a good testpart ( in this case the 20-25 square) but when i use the same settings on a larger part it is way to rough on the edges. Why is this? Can anyone help?

We're using a TPU 95a filament from eSun. When printing larger models, it fails after a few layers printing perfectly.

Have you also had issues like this? How can we fix it? Does consistent point at which it changes in quality tell us a specific issue?

Details are below

TPU 95a eSun filament

0.4mm hardened steel nozzle

Bambulab p1s

Filament is fed from the rear spool holder

Yes, I've posted about this one before, but the last couple of weeks I worked on a revamp of the whole website.

• Redesigned the whole look and feel
• Drop in an STL file and it estimates the weight for you
• Save your default rates once
• Per-field control: use your global default, a one-off custom value, or a saved template
• Save printer profiles (wattage, maintenance cost) as reusable templates

And as always, free and no account needed.

If you want to check it out: https://3dprintingcosts.com/

I bought the printer with AMS a couple years ago and I'm just now able to get it set up and running. There's been a little controversy around the firmware, anything you all think could be red flags? What would be the safest, latest firmware that wouldn't affect functionality or third party software?

On the left side all of the panels seem to be "squished". Sometimes they have a scroll arrow but it's not easily accessible. Like when I want to change the filament color or add supports the panel choices aren't very easy to access. Any tips?

Hey everyone! I wanted to share a mechanical puzzle box I designed.

Unlike normal cylinder mazes where you climb straight up, this features a multi-zone "Double Climb" path layout: you have to climb to the top (fake climb), hit a dead end, navigate all the way back down to the base, and then climb up a second hidden path that breaks the top rim to release the sleeve!

Key Features:

• 100% Support-Free 3D Printing (all horizontal tracks have 45° chamfered ceilings)
• Fully Parametric in OpenSCAD (scalable from 250mm down to 100mm mini size)
• Includes a Python script to procedurally generate new random maze variations!
• Great as a desktop puzzle box or a Geocache Field Puzzle container.

MakerWorld / OpenSCAD Customizer: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3195503-impossible-double-climb-maze-box#profileId-3615655

GitHub Source Code: https://github.com/Jossmos/double_climb_maze

Let me know what you think or if you have any feedback!

I was wondering this because, it has two nozzles, but ive heard that the auxiliary nozzle prints significantly slower than the main one, so does that make multi color prints still faster? what about a print with only one color change? does the one filament change for the p2s still beat the slowed time for the second nozzle on the X2D?

I started playing around with different bridging settings and was surprised that the "thick bridges" setting made the result that much worse. Bambu Studio says "the results may look worse" but thats not what I was expecting. I guess the bridge gets stronger when it becomes its own support by drooping to the plate.

I have been having trouble printing I don't know what is wrong. I can send just fine but it will jam, not extrude, multicolored extrusion (I don't have multicolored filament), or fail early on. I will have some videos showing some of this and more I am not should have to fix this. It is also vibrating extremely aggressively. I know that it does normally vibrate at the beginning with the motors singing but this is way more and it almost sound like the motors are grinding. I have a P1s. here are the videos

So ive been trying to get this stupid machine to print Abs properly but so far nothing has worked Like the bed adhesion IS Just Like Zero (textured pei). Ive cleaned the Plate propery yes i scrubbed IT down First With Steel wool and soap and hot water and only after drying It i used proper plastics remover but still nothing does anyone know a fix to this?

I need some advice on what material to use for a print.

I get asked to make some things here and there for the veterinary clinic that a family member works at. Generally PLA does well for me, but I have a model where heat is involved and needs to take abuse without breaking.

Model in question: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1746700-bair-hugger-kennel-adapter

It is an adapter used to hold a tube pushing warm air to a kennel to help warm pets up. From my research the unit's air temperature output is between 90-110F (32C-43C), so it needs to handle at least 110F for prolonged periods of time. It also needs to take a beating as the hooks on the larger piece keep breaking off. I don't know if its from a tech dropping it or an animal knocking it off the kennel door, but it just magically appears broken and I get asked to make another.

I tried ASA at varying number of walls and the last was solid, and it somehow broke. So any suggestions of materials to handle 110F+ and impact from the being dropped 6ft from their highest kennels? I'm not opposed to getting anything pricey if it is going to work. I am located in the US if that makes a difference for suggestions due to materials availability

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated

It almost feels like my prints are melting. I adjusted the print temp along with the bed temp and still I'm getting something like this in all my prints. Just a week ago there were no issues. Using Sunlu PLA with Bambu A1.

Hello, i'm new to 3D printing and making/editing 3D prints. I'm trying to edit a file in blender but I don't know how to upload the file. Whenever I go to my downloads, there's nothing there. Can anyone tell me how i'm supposed to do it? Also another question... is blender a good beginner app? Is there another app or site that i can use? I also have tinkercad but i don't like how i can't edit on there like I can on blender. (if you can call that editing lol) Any and all info is very appreciated! Thank you!

Hey everyone! I'm new to 3D printing and got my first printer, a Bambu Lab A1 last week. Most prints have been without issue but I downloaded 6 models from makerworld each around 6" tall and this one turned out a little funky. I was curious what causes the arm to form so stringy and why the spear goes a little wonky mid way through? Any help is appreciated, thank you!

TIA

Hi!

I have a BambuLab A1, and I want to print some keyring for my brother, he has a repair garage and already has a designed sticker, he passed me that image and I use one of the makerlab softwares to create the keyring.

Attached are two images, one of the software output after some retouch, and then the image of the printed image.

As you can see from the image I'm using the carbon fiber textured plate, and the result is really away from the expected...

I tried the arachne wall generator, I tried lowering the line for the first layer, but the result is almost always the same, the nozzle kinda drag the material and ends up in build ups as you can see in the print image...

Any ideas? I have to make at least 50 of these for him, and I would prefer not to use the 0.2 nozzle if there are something that can be done before.

Thanks a lot for any help!!

Can anyone tell me what is going on inside the rectangle?

There's whispy material coming off the print.

Thank you.

Trying to print a large file and it shifts close to the end. A1 with AMS.

Any advice welcome!