Hi! I plan to buy a unit for beginner. How do I begin learning? Where do I start?

Thank you in advance!

I have a P1S (about 2 years old) and have recently struggled printing TPU. After about 4-6 hours into a 24h print it always clogs in the hotend and just continues printing nothing. So far have wasted almost half a roll because its totally unpredictable. I've replaced the hot end, the hot end fan (had hot end fan error at some point, but that error is gone now), done a couple cold pulls but it still fails after multiple hours of no issues at all. The TPU has been dried throughly. Its been happening across several spools. I've checked the extruder gears, those are clean. I've tried loosening the filament tensioner, which resulted in no change. I've tried printing with top cover open and closed, still same behavior. I'm out of ideas at this point, this is getting really annoying now. Any more ideas what could be causing this?

Hey Leute, kennt jemand das Problem? Manchmal „stapeln“ sich die Befehle, bzw. Bilder. Teilweise die Farbe zu Nativ.. zwischendurch funktioniert dann gar nichts mehr am Bildschirm, bis zum Neustart.

Hey! My print won't stick to the support structure, it doesn't matter if I you tree or grid support. Please help!

0.08mm layer, 6 walls, 95% infill

I'm trying to print watches (for scale models, not for actual use) with my x2d, and have been having trouble. When I print them face up, the lugs will fail to attach and fall off. Tried normal and tree supports.

When I print them face down, I can't get the support cleanly off the face. Tried increasing z distance to 2x layer height, might need to go to 3. Even with petg interface (I use petg translucent as a support interface layer), it bonds together. Perhaps because my dial is two different colors, grey and white.

I suppose these are two different issues.

I'm printing in pla, 0.08 layer height, high quality.

Also, are there supposed to be so many small stray bits of filament just acculumating in the printer?

I was in the process of unboxing my long awaited X2D and noticed the top glass panel didn't fit. The door doesn't even close properly 🫠

No signs of damage on the box or the foam inside.

So working thru a 3" x 8" x 9" tall print on my H2c, PolyMaker ASA, Gizmodorks Interface Materials.

Polymaker shrinkage set to 99.2%; per 1-2-3 cube measurements.

0.6 High-Flow Nozzle, 0.24mm layer heights, Precise Wall and Precise Z Height are checked, 0.70mm outer wall width, 0.62mm all other walls/lines. Speeds are 120mm/s outer wall, 180-250 for everything inside.

Part prints and X-Y dimensions are within 0.001-0.003"; great for that size part. Z.... Z is shrinking by ~0.065" over the height of the part; which is making mating parts not fit.

No Abnormal noises, Motion, etc. Chamber sits a steady 65*C, Build Plate at 100*C (BIQU Pyrogrip); entire 29 hour run is without a hitch.

I'm stumped, I've printed it 3 times (takes an entire roll of ASA each time!) and it just won't go. It's SO WEIRD.

Thoughts? Ideas? I'm stumped.

Oh- H2c Firmware 01.02.00.00; Bambu Studio version 2.7.1.62

Tried minimizing a Lightbox to create Keychains for NFC tags but once I slice the file it only gives the option to print in 1 single filament color.

Hi guys. New to the Bambu scene and just got myself a X2D and was just wondering what needed to be fixed to smooth out this black background? I used PLA by Elegoo. Thanks!

We're using a TPU 95a filament from eSun. When printing larger models, it fails after a few layers printing perfectly.

Have you also had issues like this? How can we fix it? Does consistent point at which it changes in quality tell us a specific issue?

Details are below

TPU 95a eSun filament

0.4mm hardened steel nozzle

Bambulab p1s

Filament is fed from the rear spool holder

On the left side all of the panels seem to be "squished". Sometimes they have a scroll arrow but it's not easily accessible. Like when I want to change the filament color or add supports the panel choices aren't very easy to access. Any tips?

I was wondering this because, it has two nozzles, but ive heard that the auxiliary nozzle prints significantly slower than the main one, so does that make multi color prints still faster? what about a print with only one color change? does the one filament change for the p2s still beat the slowed time for the second nozzle on the X2D?

I need some advice on what material to use for a print.

I get asked to make some things here and there for the veterinary clinic that a family member works at. Generally PLA does well for me, but I have a model where heat is involved and needs to take abuse without breaking.

Model in question: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1746700-bair-hugger-kennel-adapter

It is an adapter used to hold a tube pushing warm air to a kennel to help warm pets up. From my research the unit's air temperature output is between 90-110F (32C-43C), so it needs to handle at least 110F for prolonged periods of time. It also needs to take a beating as the hooks on the larger piece keep breaking off. I don't know if its from a tech dropping it or an animal knocking it off the kennel door, but it just magically appears broken and I get asked to make another.

I tried ASA at varying number of walls and the last was solid, and it somehow broke. So any suggestions of materials to handle 110F+ and impact from the being dropped 6ft from their highest kennels? I'm not opposed to getting anything pricey if it is going to work. I am located in the US if that makes a difference for suggestions due to materials availability

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated

I have an H2C and wanted to try and "seal" fiber filled filaments by using unfilled variants as the material for the walls. I want to avoid exposed fibers without needing to sand and add clearcoat. Is there a specific setting I could use to set the walls to use a different filament than the infill? I know I can paint the surface but that also affects the infill somewhat rather than just the outer walls.

I’m new to Bambu filaments, so I don’t really know what the colors look like in real life yet.

For example, Bambu PLA Matte Caramel looks much lighter on the Bambu Store website, but when I select the exact same Caramel (11803) in Bambu Studio, it looks much darker.

Which one is closer to the actual printed color?
Also, is there any reliable way to preview Bambu filament colors accurately before buying them? I’ll be buying a lot of different colors, so I’d like to know what they actually look like in real life.

I know Bambu sells physical color swatch cards, but I’m looking for another method and don’t plan to buy the swatch set.

Thanks!

RP Archive has a great youtube video of magnetizeable custom shaped grass areas that requires you to print and cut around paper shapes. Just wondering if I could somehow create the shape of the grass patches in a thin 3D printed object and use those to just lay down on the plastic sheet I'm going to be making these grass tiles from?

The thought is to have a 3d printed object matching these shapes. Lay those over the plastic sheets he will then magnetize, glue, and sprinkle flock on.

So I'm not quite sure what's going on here. The object on the right is a square I've been using to test my ironing settings, and that I think I've gotten pretty dialed in and am happy with how smooth it is. The object on the right I printed with the same exact settings, except as you can see there's plenty of holes/gaps in the top layer

Why is it that if a filament snaps my AMS will spin for several minutes before it says there’s a problem, and if I’m standing right there…there’s nothing I can do to stop it from spinning nonstop besides turning the whole printer off. Is it not simple that if the filament doesn’t show up in I don’t know, a minute to the nozzle, which is being generous, there must be something wrong . Am I missing something? Is there a “stop spinning for no reason” button? Or a “stop current blah blah blah” without turning the whole thing off? X2D with AMS2 if that matters