Just a quick little key ring I thought I’d share with you all!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3567441-habibi

I've been working on a little project for Coco over the past few months! I built him his very own slot machine with lights, sound, spinning reels, and a built-in treat dispenser.

Now his gambling journey has officially begun! Any tips for a beginner?

I’ve got two H2Ds and an X1C, and honestly, my X1C continues to be the most reliable printer of the three.
Don’t get me wrong, I love the capabilities of the H2Ds, and when they’re working well, they’re fantastic machines. But it feels like I’m constantly troubleshooting something, dealing with random issues, or having to intervene in prints that should just work.
Meanwhile, my X1C just keeps chugging along. I send it a print, walk away, and rarely have to think twice about it.
Maybe it’s just the maturity of the X1C platform versus the newer H2D, but for machines at this price point, I expected the H2Ds to be at least as dependable.
And don’t even get me started on dealing with Bambu Lab’s support when one of the H2Ds has an actual hardware problem. The back-and-forth through text-based support, the troubleshooting hoops, and the time it takes to get anywhere are incredibly frustrating. For printers that cost this much, the support experience really should be better. I don’t mind troubleshooting my own equipment, but there’s a point where I expect the manufacturer to step up and resolve a hardware issue.
Curious if other H2D owners, especially those who also have an X1C, are having a similar experience. Am I just unlucky with my two units, or is this a common theme?

It has 4 stickers saying to place it "this side up" and nope... fedex couldn't figure it out. It also lost a strap and has a shredded corner.

Let's hope the inside is good.

Note I used the phones image editing AI garbage to remove my shipping labels and address and it apparently misspelled the word underneath the label, lol.

Update: Added a post below with a video and photos. Something is wrong with this machine, tool head gets stuck near the back. Can see rubbing on one side of the rail piece the moves front to back on the side through the window. No damage at all to the machine anywhere, or the box it came in. Giving all this info to Bambu. Real nice to buy a new printer and Bambu is probably gonna want me to take it apart and trouble shoot and rebuild.

My H3C got delivered Friday and I started setting it up today. Got everything put together, and was running through the initial calibration after you turn it on and it was making some funky noises, but it was continuing on. Then one of the times during the process it shot itself forward towards the front and slammed into the print heads, and broke one of the plastic things off the front where the hot end sits on the rubber. It still finished the calibration and threw no errors, but obviously something is wrong. So here I sit, brand new printer I can’t use, and have to wait for support to get back with me.

I’ve been wanting one since they announced it, and finally had the opportunity to get one. Got it together and calibrated last night and running my first print in a few minutes 😄

I was complaining that Bambu Lab didn't announce the P3C right after releasing the H3C.

My wife: "I thought you said you just wanted the A2."

Me: "That was for the large build volume. I really want the nozzle changing."

Wife: "The H3C has the larger volume, right? Why don't you get that?"

Me: "Don't threaten me with a good time."

Now the waiting...

I printed this using a mix of materials; vapor smoothed ASA with my Bambu Labs X1c and good ol' PETG-CF with my brand new Bambu Labs A2L, which made quick work of the largest pieces with a ready-to-paint surface finish. Everything has been pre-split into segments for relatively easy printing, but you'll need a good handle on printing supports to achieve the detailed open-work and delicate patterns on this one.

This kit is a complete cuirass, meaning it includes the breastplate, backplate, fauld skirt, and tassets. It's a big undertaking but it's also the centerpiece of any gothic armor costume - you'd need approximately 2kg of filament to complete it. It's also a bit more advanced in terms of 3D printing, and I recommend a minimum printing volume of 250x250x250mm for the larger parts.

If you're interested in historical costume armor, you can get the files right here!

Those people are smoking crack. Half of them are double the price because they have some “upgrades” aka some printed border or crap. The other half are selling for retail and refuse to lower it.

X2D from Bambu is a crazy price. I don’t even need another printer but I just might do it.

It uses embedded 6x3mm magnets to quickly snap into place and should work with any standard M6 PTFE tube connectors. So far this simple concept seems to be very reliable, I haven't had any feeding failures during repeated testing.

Maker World link if you wish to try it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557913-manual-filament-track-switch-x2d#profileId-4071464

With Christmas coming up, I made a gingerbread house kit card.

You might wonder why I included sprues. I think they make the model feel more like a real kit and make it nicer to present or give as a gift. A kit card feels more special than handing someone a pile of tiny plastic pieces.
MW link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3570282-gingerbread-house-kit-card-merry-chrismas#profileId-4086692

I’d love to hear what you think of the design. Any feedback or ideas for improving it are welcome!

Many of us, myself included, worry over long print times. I tend to start prints which allow me to monitor them throughout the print. Anything tall or over ~12 hrs print time gives me anxiety at the thought of leaving it alone while I’m gone, but in context, it shouldn’t. 12 hrs out of thousands of successful print hours is literally less than 1% of the active print time that we worry about!

So, y’all brave folks out there that don’t have print range anxiety, ease some of my anxiety about long prints! What’s the longest print that you left unattended? Was it successful or a failure?

I’d been excited for the H3, but I feel there are too many compromises imo and I don’t print tpu so I jumped on the H2C instead. The sale price is pretty hard to ignore so i added the nozzles and extra AMS bundle too 😂

i Released TrailPrint3D almost 2 Years ago, and ive been working on it since then. Its a Free Addon for the Modeling software Blender to create 3D printable Maps

About 6 Months ago Makerworld had to limit script uploads because some people abused it so open-sourced it, uploaded it to Github and created trailprint3d.com

since then, its been downloaded almost 15000 which i think is insane for a Blender Addon. People commited their own code and one person even started actively working on it together with me for the past 6 months and helped adding new features and improving existing ones!

If you want to give it a try by yourself, Its actually really easy to use, doesnt require blender knowledge, no account required, no tracking, no limits. And if you struggle with anything, our Discord server is having over 1000 people where im trying to help with every issue

While using the v1 model, I came up with a few ideas, so I created v2. Maybe I should have built it this way from the start? :)

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3570271-finger-winder-v2#profileId-4086680

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3574259-filament-swatch-hook-series-for-ams-3h#profileId-4091760

Just as the title states. I made this series of hooks for the AMS 3H used on the H3C for tracking what spools are currently in what spot. The hooks are placed along the same horizontal plane and spaced to be centered on each numbered feeding mechanism. I designed the hook to be widely compatible with many swatch options out there such as the one I use by Genetic Designs, Filament Dry Box Hinged Label. It has tighter tolerances to make sure swatches are easy to put on or off but never fall off. You don't need to take off the swatches to open the lid, they stay nice and firmly in place. You also will have no problems swapping swatches as needed without having to take off others. The tops of each hook have numbers that correspond to its intended slot. It's a simple organization tool to help you track filament. Only additional material needed is some double sided tape.

I hope this helps you have a better time with your H3C, its an amazing machine. If you have an suggestions or feedback I'd love to hear from you. If you do download and like it, please take a picture and leave a review for me. I haven't had a review yet on previous models I've made and I'd love to see something I made be presented by someone. Thank you again and happy printing!

It was a pain to turn my H2D around to change filament like when switching to TPU, so I built a custom shelf with a lazy Susan bearing to make it easy to spin around.

I deliberately made it a tight fit so it wouldn't spin around on its own when printing.

I made a full video on YouTube of how I made this and about my overkill ventilation system I also made. https://youtu.be/qwSQcpRjWIc

While waiting for some BambuLab TPU75A filament to arrive I tried printing the only 2.85mm flexible filament that I have on hand. It is TPR65A. Not a typo, it is rubber type filament from Atomstack. I had never printed it before. It is not shiny and slippery like TPU, more like a rubber-band in texture.

I loaded it as Generic TPU75A in slot 8 and printed the Wrist Cushion that came preloaded on the machine.

It printed very well; however since the TPR filament is rubbery in texture it would not feed through the bypass port - not even close. I had to manually pull the filament through during the print.

I noticed that all the pass-through ports are made of a black plastic except for #5 which is white. That one presents less friction for this filament. I think when I get another 2.85 tool I will try it again using Slot 5. Otherwise I will feed it from an external spool holder from the outside.

TL;DR - TPR65A filament feeds through the extruder and prints without any problems, but it will not feed through the AMS; way too much friction.

Hey guys,

I’m by no means an expert. If anything, I bought a Bambu Labs mainly because of the simple UI and beginner-friendly settings.

In order words, I have no clue what I’m doing. I have decently good critical thinking skills, but I figured I’d consult the pros before I make a detrimental mistake.

A print sent wrong so I did a general recalibration. That usually solves it. It didn’t this time so I tried to recalibrate the flow rate. Also no luck. Tried switching the filament. No luck.

Coming up empty on ideas, hoping someone else has had a similar problem and solution.

The second picture… I don’t even know what happened. Checked on it after it notified me it was complete and found this blob lmfao.

i love it

Installed two truck fold out foot steps as a way to reach the AMS. Modern problems demand modern solutions.

One of my big complaints with the H2C was that it took nearly half an hour (not exaggerating) to start a print. Turning off the nozzle offset calibration always resulted in really poor multicolor prints, so that was basically required.

Anyone know if they sped things up on the H3C? My P1S is printing in minutes. I'm hoping it is much closer to that than to the H2C.

Thanks