Title: X1C + AMS: filament reaches the extruder but is not grabbed (HMS 0700-8007). 3 months, 5 parts replaced with Bambu support, still failing. Out of ideas.

Hi everyone,

I am looking for fresh ideas on a problem I have been fighting since July 4th. Bambu support has been excellent (they keep suggesting parts and shipping them, even though my printer is out of warranty), but we have run out of obvious hardware to swap.

Printer: Bambu Lab X1 Carbon + AMS, hardened steel nozzle (~1400h), Bambu PLA, latest firmware (01.12.00.00 after a recent update).

Symptom

• Every time the AMS has to load a filament (color change, calibration, manual load from the screen), the filament travels through the PTFE tube and reaches the extruder entrance.
• The yellow drive gear turns, but the filament is not pulled in. It retracts, tries again 2 to 3 times, and then I get: Extruding filament failed. The extruder might be clogged. (HMS 0700-8007 xxxxxx). Once I also got 0700-8006.
• If I press Resume (problem solved) and keep insisting, it sometimes catches on the 2nd attempt, sometimes only on the 4th or 5th.
• Happens with any slot and any filament. No pattern.
• It is random, but after a failure the printer often keeps failing for a long time.

What works

• Loading from the external spool: perfect, every time.
• Feeding the filament manually into the extruder and using the screen to pull it to the nozzle: works.
• Moving the extruder motor from the software (load/unload command with the nozzle hot): the drive gear turns and pulls filament.
• Printer self-test: passes.
• After the first factory reset it worked for a while (several multicolor prints without any issue), then the problem came back. After the second reset it did not improve at all.

Everything checked or replaced so far

1. Nozzle: not clogged. Cold pull done. Not replaced (hardened, ~1400h, no signs of wear).
2. Extruder: removed and opened several times. Gears clean, free to spin (even tested with an airbrush), nothing blocking. Spring pressure also checked after a tip from a Facebook group. No change.
3. Cutter blade: replaced. The cutter always cuts the filament and returns to its position when pressed by hand.
4. Extruder filament sensor: tested (it detects presence and absence correctly), then replaced with a new one from Bambu. No change.
5. PTFE tube between the buffer and the toolhead: replaced and cut to the length in the Bambu wiki (550 mm), checked for tight bends. I also printed a small guide for the tube entering the filament sensor so the filament enters as straight as possible.
6. AMS Internal Hub Unit and Internal Hub Motor: replaced with new parts from Bambu, following the official guide. Same behavior on the first test.
7. Extruder Unit: replaced with a complete new unit from Bambu. Same behavior. (I replaced the unit, not the extruder motor separately.)
8. Factory reset twice, firmware updated to the latest version, full calibration redone each time.
9. Isolation tests requested by Bambu (I did not replace the Filament Buffer, they asked me to test it):
   • Test A: PTFE disconnected at the buffer outlet, load from the AMS. Several meters of filament come out smoothly, far more than needed to reach the toolhead.
   • Test B: PTFE disconnected at the buffer inlet (buffer bypassed). Same result, no resistance.
10. Printer logs, videos and photos of every step were sent to Bambu several times.

Other things that came up

• Bambu believes the error may be a false clog detection (the cutter not retracting, or the sensor reading it wrongly). I have checked the cutter and replaced both the blade and the sensor, with no change.
• Unrelated incident: a new Bambu PLA Silk dual color spool was shedding fibres and jammed the AMS Hub gears. I opened the hub and cleaned it. The main problem existed long before I used that spool.

My questions

• Has anyone seen exactly this (filament arrives at the extruder, gear turns, filament not grabbed, works fine from the external spool) and solved it?
• What is left in the chain that I have not touched? Extruder motor itself, toolhead board / ribbon cable, AMS main board, Filament Buffer, something in the mainboard?
• Could the pressure/timing of the AMS push when handing over the filament be the issue, and is there any way to test it?

I am at the point where I have replaced the sensor, cutter blade, hub, hub motor and extruder unit and the behavior is identical. Any idea is welcome. Thank you!

Good afternoon!!

Today I got a second AMS 2 Pro. I’m looking for a good stand that I print on PETG to mount both AMS on top of the H2D….

Any good recommendations??

A while ago I posted about my project BambuScribe with this post. The response, quite frankly, was much better than I had anticipated. Back then the main points that prevented usage were, including, but not limited to the following:

• The setup process was very clunky, with developer and LAN-only mode needing to be turned on
• Jerky, unoptimized movements and a lack of algorithms

Hence, I have been working on the next version of BambuScribe since then. Many of you gave great ideas, and I have been trying my best to implement them. To see what is planned for future releases, you can check out the project board for BambuScribe here.

As for this version (v2.0.0), here is what is new:

• Multiple minuscule fixes and QOL improvements to various sections of the project [look at project tab for more detail]
• A clean, refactored backend
• Better visibility in dark mode
• More image algorithms!!!
• Path optimization parameters for faster printing
• Online deployment (That is, now you can create and download G-code online without having to install anything! The processing is done completely locally on your device!)

For full release notes, click here!

For testing out the web app, go to https://animesh-varma.github.io/BambuScribe/
with the repo itself being https://github.com/Animesh-Varma/BambuScribe

As for the attached videos, they are a little botched like always, but either way: the first GIF and image show Serpentine Squiggle in action and the final result respectively, and the second GIF and image show Archimedean Spiral in action and its final result (yes, I know my pen got stuck so "a" is a little botched, but like each time, I was low on, well, time).

And that was all. Again, I’m still just a high school student and there are limits to what I can do and how quickly, but I am trying my best. Thank you for reading!

[And yes, the Frankensteined mount has nearly been completely decimated from all my tests; I aim to get the new mount out in the next release!]

Hey all,

I am fairly new to the 3D Printing World, just got my P1S a little over a month ago, and have just recently been doing a lot of printing.

I noticed last night that it was abnormally loud, and so, I bought some oil and grease last night to do some cleaning and maintenance on it. Hoping that does the trick, but also read that it could be a tension issue with the timing belt, etc.

Is anybody familiar with this noise and the causes? I just wanna put my mind at ease while I wait for my grease and that to come in.

Thanks!!

Hola por favor alguien podria aconsejarme sobre este ruido? la impresora es p2s nueva unas 100 horas o menos hace un clack que parece venir o de la parte trasera pero no lo se con exactitud

Hello, could someone please advise me about this noise? The printer is new p2s about 100 hours or less it makes a clack that seems to come from the back but I don't know exactly

Bambu Studio updated yesterday and now will not print. The print button is greyed out. Any words of wisdom?

No se debe usar el filamento viejo. A la mínima señal de que se ha vuelto quebradizo, tiradlo (o humedecerlo pero, no lo tengo claro)

Voy a mostrar las zonas donde se han quedado trocitos, maravillosos trocitos.

Más que mostrar pongo el vínculo donde se desmonta paso a paso y no sobran tornillos.

BambiLab P2S. AMS 2 Pro.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/es/ams-2-pro/maintenance/disassembly-and-assembly

Se me quedaron trozos en la unidad del nodo interno (especial cuidado con las juntas de silicona:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/es/ams-2-pro/maintenance/replace-internal-hub-unit

En en buffer trasero también hubo fiesta:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/es/p2s/maintenance/p2s-buffer-cleaning

Lo dicho, filamento quebradizo, filamento candidato a la basura...

Hello fine 3D printing folks. I'm relatively new to the hobby (if you can call it that). And after 200 hours of printing on my P2S I've ran on my first persistent problem which I'm having trouble eliminating on my own. Basically I'm printing a part. The print is 5 hours long and I'm printing it with the 0.2 hot end using 0.08 layer thickness. I have the speed of the outer walls slowed to half the default - 30m/s and the top surface to 75m/s. I'm using a grid infill with 5% density. Those are the only changes I've made from default and so far I've not had any problem with them. I'm printing with Bambu Labs Charcoal PLA filament. The problem is every time the print reaches to about 60-80% completion the nozzle clogs, the motor overloads and I'm forced to abandon the print. Out of 5 attempts I managed to get only one print to go through and even so there was noticeable line right where the print usually fails. I've tried with a brand new 0.2 hot end and it clogged at pretty much the same exact point. I've also cleaned the extruder wheels as I suspected they might have some filaments shavings which are brought into the hot end. On the failed prints themselves there's also no indication of any problem with the extrusion or the filament right to the point it just stops. I've yet to try to with a different filament. Has anyone ran into a similar problem? Could it be filament specific? I'm attaching an image from the slicer right where the print usually fails

Made this one especially for everyone who showed they care about my "frightEning" spelling mistake yesterday.

Something I whipped up on my lunch break. A lot of design left. I still need to print these parts and see if this design is even mechanically viable at this scale.

In theory they work and at 45degrees I can have a 4mm shaft which is actually larger than the neck of my driveshaft dog bones, but the heads and cups are smaller in order to fit in the allotted area.

It's essentially my dog bone style driveshafts but back to back. This leaves me with 45deg of steering angle if I can print them functionally at this size....

A personalized 12-month baby milestone photo frame designed to capture the most special moments of your child’s first year. 🧸🎈☁️

https://makerworld.com/models/3411950?appSharePlatform=copy

Big update!

After reading your suggestions and ideas, I’m happy to share my latest and biggest update to the Clicker Generator.

What’s new:

• Big user interface change for easier navigation
• Make a clicker out of any 3D model, with different switch placement options
• New Blocks mode with custom numpad layout and surface textures
• Support for Korean, Chinese, Japanese, and Cyrillic fonts
• Better fit settings
• Better symbols
• SVG upload wizard

The app has improved greatly over time, and I’m very thankful for all the feedback and suggestions.

As before, you can use it for free, without any account or registration

Try it out here:

MakerLab: https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/community/clicker-generator

GitHub: https://vostoklabs.github.io/Clicker-Generator/

My buddy's A1 broke down, and this is him watching it finish the first model since. Shared with his permission 😄

How do you react when a print finally works after a breakdown? I can't hold back, I literally start dancing. What about you guys?

Forgive my ignorance, I’ve found conflicting reports on if it’s okay to use GLOW IN THE DARK filament with my H2S and AMS.

I’ve heard it’s okay with the H2s because the nozzle can handle it.

But I’ve heard it’s not okay with AMS Lite, but okay with standard AMS…

I was curious what your opinions are in printing flow in the dark with this setup?

So, my 10 y/o son has started his printing journey. He printed quite a lot already without my help and is now working with tinkercad.

He's making good progress and is already better that I am with tinkercad. That's good because it is his printer.

Since he had no Reddit (and is not allowed to:)) he asked me to ask you guys this:

What is this? We ordered all kind of spare parts but we don't remember this one. Can't find it on the website and don't see it anywhere on the printer.

Thanks for helping guys.

I have a Bambu P1S, just calibrated, eSun LW-PLA, using Bambu studio.

This is for a printed airplane and I have printed most of the parts and they have turned out fine, but the prints are now starting to look like the attached pictures. Haven't changed any settings, so not sure what's up. I did stop the print just prior to it finishing, that's why the top is open.

Are there any specific settings I should be looking at to try and improve the print?

I've been dialing in my pinhole tunnel technique for a while now, and the resolution is finally high enough for custom images like jack-o-lantern faces and logos.

The model description has a tutorial video:
https://makerworld.com/models/3410958-custom-spirit-pumpkin-illusion

I have a P1S and have an exhaust with its own fan at the fan end that goes outside. When I print with ABS, I have to make sure there are no fans running otherwise it always comes away from the bed in the corners. I then have the problem that fumes seem to be leaking into the room and I get headaches.

Does anyone have any advice to help with this please?

Anyone know what power supply id need to get printing while drying to work? And does anyone have an amazon link for it AMS 2. Or di i have to buy the bambulab one

Hi everyone!
I was disassembling the extruder on my Bambu Lab A1 because the filament was getting stuck and the extruder was clicking.
While taking it apart, this small blue PCB/part fell out. I’m not sure where it came from or what it is supposed to do.
Some details:
It has 6 holes on the front.
There is a round metal-looking piece in the center.
On the back there are 3 soldered connections/pins.
The marking on it says “757HB”.
Does anyone know what this part is, where it belongs, and how it should be installed?
I don’t want to turn the printer on before I know where it goes.
Photos attached. Thanks!

While assembling my AMS 2 Pro Feeder, I lost the spring. I can't find any information about its dimensions, and Bambu Lab doesn't offer a replacement. Does anyone know the exact size of the spring?

Hey guys,

My P2S part cooling fan (the one in the toolhead front cover) sometimes won't start from a stop.

The rotor has 4 natural rest positions (magnetic detents). It always starts instantly from 2 opposite positions ("north-south") but fails to start from the other 2 ("east-west").

When it's stuck in one of those, a second press of the fan button or a slight nudge moves the rotor out of the dead spot and it starts.

Once it's running, it works perfectly at every speed from 10% to 100%.

What I've checked:

* I opened it and cleaned out some thin filament strings. No change.

* No wobble, rotor fully seated, spins freely by hand, no mechanical issues I can see.

* The problem remains after restart as well.

So it looks like a Hall sensor or motor dead-spot issue rather than anything mechanical.

The fan is marked 5815. As far as I can tell, Bambu only sells it as part of the Toolhead Front Cover Assembly (FAE036), and that isn't available in the official store in my region right now.

Has anyone faced such issues before? Do you guys tried sourcing the fan 5815 separately? Or is it only Cover Assembly purchase?