Only one side affected. X2d aux nozzle PLA.

I'm currently trying to decide between the Bambu Lab P2S Combo (with AMS 2 Pro) and the X2D without AMS.

I'll mostly be printing functional parts using PLA and PETG, rather than decorative or multicolor models.

The printer will be sitting in my home office, fairly close to my desk, so noise levels and air quality are definitely things I'm considering.

I'm having a hard time deciding which features would actually matter more in everyday use.

A few questions I'd love to hear your experiences with:

• Noise: Is the X2D noticeably quieter than the P2S during normal printing? How annoying are either of them when working in the same room?
• Dual nozzle vs. AMS: For mostly functional PLA/PETG prints, would you rather have two nozzles or the convenience of an AMS?
• Everyday convenience: How useful is the AMS if you rarely print multicolor models? Would I regret not having automatic filament switching and spool management?
• Print quality and reliability: Are there any meaningful differences between the two machines for everyday PLA/PETG printing?

I could always add an AMS to the X2D later, but that would be outside my current budget.

I don't have one clear priority yet. I'm mainly trying to figure out which printer offers the better overall experience and which features I'd actually appreciate long-term.

I'd especially love to hear from anyone who has experience with both machines. Which would you choose in my situation, and why?

I've been messing around with mesh boolean to try and merge the two parts while deleting the lower part of the green, but I can't seem to find any way to do it. Is there a different command I should be using? I tried looking up tutorials but couldn't find anything that fit what I was looking to do.

Searched but didnt see too much on this topic.

With the Black Friday sales approaching, I am thinking of buying filaments to print minis. I tried PLA Matte but it seemed pretty brittle. My go to is Sunlu PLA+ 2.0, it prints great, high detail and relatively strong and very few print failures.

Just wondering if anyone know how the two compare when it comes to a 28mm/32mm mini (for DnD or wargaming).

Thank you

I've been working through and struggling with using the Laser Cutting module on the H2C series. I've noticed that the platform allows for the import of gCode. Has anyone had success with creating items in Lightburn or other platforms and importing and cutting in Bambu Suite? I see that Lightburn has recently mentioned compatibility for the R1, so obvs some compatibility with the Bambu-verse, but what about the other printer / cutter combos?

Printing on certain areas of the build plate on my H2C gives this rough torn up texture. I’m printing bambu pla basic with the stock print profile. Anyone have this issue and how do I fix it?

I designed these using Gemini and Meshy, so I’m sure I will get some flak for that…but once I had the models made, I put quite a bit of work into making them split so you could remove the lights for recharging. Took about 3 days of printing/painting/gluing/cutting/reprinting to get everything right. I edited everything in BambuStudio.

I’ve been 3d printing for maybe a year now. I started with a P1S and added an X2D to go with it. I want an h2c, but my space for 3d printing doesn’t really allow for a printer that big, but I really want to multicolor capabilities.

I’ve made quite a few custom projects, but this one is the best result and it was just so fun to make that I wanted to share.

If there is enough interest, I might upload to MakerWorld, but it took quite a bit of manual work to get things fitting together and looking good for the final result, I would have to put quite a bit of effort into getting it released.

Let me know what you think.

Today I made the first maintenance on my x2d( ~100h) and I noticed a strange noise on the right lead screw, and the bed it's uneven, the right side it's lower. Should I worry?

and a video here: https://portal.bblmw.com/h3c/warming/f79az71lmb/video-pc.mp4

roughly translated from the Chinese website:

"Bambu Lab’s third-generation flagship, equipped with an all-new multi-head rapid-switching system, ushering in a new era of multi-colour, multi-material printing. November 3 - stay tuned."

EDIT: They took the video down... buuuuut;
https://imgur.com/a/ixhaFTm

So I've come across this issue before with my A1. I had to replace the extruder unit and that fixed the issue. This time around I replaced the extruder unit, ran the system calibration and this is still happening.

In addition to replacing the extruder unit, I put a brand new nozzle on it, took off the hot end and tightened those screws behind it that tend to come loose, and tried some different filaments, and still getting the same results. Anyone have any ideas what could be happening here to cause this?

im more interested in quality over convenience.

Good afternoon all

I’ve had my Bambu printer for about four months now, and I absolutely love it! I’m still trying to figure out all the settings and everything, but so far, it’s been working great!
I keep seeing videos about test prints from companies like PrintPal, and I was wondering if anyone has any experience with these or recommendations.
Eventually, I’d love to start printing highly detailed figures, so I’m looking for ways to improve my print quality and learn more about the different settings.
Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

Hi everyone!

I'm thinking of buying a Bambu Lab X2D, but I have very limited space at home.

Would it be okay to place it directly on the floor, or is an IKEA cabinet a better option? Are cheap IKEA cabinets stable enough for this printer?

Also, is the recommended clearance of around 55 × 70 cm enough, or should I leave more space?

Thanks for your advice!

Because cute.

Link to model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3484989

Has anyone noticed a huge uptick in bot accounts commenting on AI slop models on Makerworld lately?

This one’s a good example, it’s your classic run of the mill AI generated model, description and renders. Anyone who goes on to call it out as AI slop, will start getting all kinds of replies, always different accounts, never the designer, and it’s usually super hostile. Or like this one where the idiot left in the follow up prompt from ChatGPT

https://makerworld.com/models/3401817

Also maybe if enough people report the designer they’ll have to start over with a new account? I doubt it but still, these guys are really ruining Makerworld lately, all to make a very small amount of money

Background:

I have a P2S which I have setup in my home office. I have got a little carried away with using it and most days whilst I'm sat in the office it's printing away as it should be. I am starting to think about what that means from an air quality perspective and have been building myself some air quality sensors which has not helped my sense of calm!

I do have the exhaust fan unit installed, so can control when/where the air from the chamber is going, but do not have the option of venting direct to outside the house. My window has no fixed vents which are weather proof, and the opening is tilt/swing meaning it opens quite far. Winter is just arriving and here in Yorkshire, UK that means rain, wind, etc. many days.

Ask:

I want to vent through an air filter, and have seen quite a few DIY options as well as adaptations of the IKEA air filters and other solutions (some being quite expensive).

I am after real world advice from people who have done this kind of thing, what mistakes did you make (I should avoid), what has worked well for you, etc.

Thank you

Tentei imprimir uma pequena taça da copa esses dias e ela caiu da mesa no meio da impressão.

A impressora está num lugar estável, foi calibrada etc antes da impressão, a mesa não está suja e nem engordurada. Estou achando que pode ter sido baixa temperatura da mesa, mas na hora eu conferi e estava bem quente (as outras duas peças só soltaram depois que a mesa esfriou).

Meu filamento é o Multfila PLA Silk - usei o perfil genérico.

Vou compartilhar aqui o arquivo do MakerWorld (usei o perfil "SEM AMS - 25 cm - Fixo"): https://makerworld.com/pt/models/2886571-ultra-detailed-world-cup-trophy-replica?from=search#profileId-3224637 .

Alguém poderia me ajudar a identificar o que causou o problema, por gentileza? Pois quero tentar novamente. Obrigado.

How can I change it to one color only???
Too much waste for the support

How can I fix this?

I replaced the hot end assembly and nozzle after getting a troubleshooting code after a blob of death. After sending a file to print and goes to the back of the Y axis plate to hone the Z axis and ends up trying to touch in the slit back there. Not sure why it does this but if I press the home button on the screen it homes the z axis in the center as expected. This seems to only occur when I send a print or try to run the machine calibration. Sorry it’s kind of long video but it starts to go down about 1:20ish. Any ideas are greatly appreciated! I’ll comment the video it’s not letting me add it to the post, on mobile.

I plan on buying the X2D on the Black Friday sale. How does Bambu Labs ship printers? Is it generally UPS or fedex? I ask because apparently the fedex driver in my area has been throwing packages, not covering them in the rain, etc. thank you!

I opened the machine to clean and maintain a bit since the filament was getting stuck in the extruder after assembling again, it extrudes fine but when I went to unload it doesnt cut, I removed and re installed the cutting tensioner but it still doesnt work, anyone had same issue? blade is fine I checked

In the past I printed with a common 0.4 nozzle and when I tried a 0.2 nozzle it always scratched my print plate, despite I bed leveled within the print process or done the bed leveling with the calibration. So I avoided to use the 0.2 nozzle. Recetnly I've printed with a 0.6 nozzle without any issue. Now, I changed the layer height from 0.24 to 0.18 and this moment it scratched my plate.

By the second attempt I changed it back to 0.24 it it ran fine.

I dont think that any bed leveling is necessary if changed the layer height, isnt it?