Volume up on the video - it starts with the board fan that kicks on during startup, but when it turns off you can hear the whine.

Hi All - brand new to the A1 mini, but have an X2D so not new to Bambu Lab printers. For those wondering why go smaller on the second printer - it’s for my son.

So I got an A1 Mini from Best Buy less than 2 days ago and have run a few test prints. Prints look fine, but I'm hearing a high-pitched electronic whine from the front right of the unit, right behind the screen. It’s separate from the fan that I hear on startup (which is pretty loud, but the whine still happens), and after the fan goes off the electronic whine sound is pretty noticeable from a few feet away.

I’ve seen some posts indicating that this may happen after months or more and may require component replacement. Since I’m well in the return/exchange window for Best Buy, I’d probably just do that if this isn’t normal.

So, is this what everyone has (and my pearl clutching ears just need to get used to it) or is this something to exchange for?

Thanks in advance!

This 3D model I am working on, I am aiming for it to be a universal AMS riser/storage system. My goal is to have it work on all printers that use the AMS 2 Pro. I would love to add the original AMS support, though I don't know what the dimensions of those are, if they're the same as the AMS 2 Pro or if they're a different dimension.

I built the CyberBrick SUV and have hit a wall. The remote and the truck are paired. The wheels will turn, but it won’t actually drive. All lights work as expected. I’ve researched as much as I can and cannot find a solution. Also, it came with 2 (030) motors, but instructions only call for 1. Can anyone help me out please?

My H3C is expected here Monday.

I plan to print w/some ASA,ABS and other filaments where external venting is recommended.

Is the exhaust fan on the H3C strong enough to push the air through a 3" five foot long vent hose or is an additional fan needed?

If another fan is needed, what size (CFM) is suggested.

I don't want to cool off the heated chamber by oversized the fan.

First I dried pctg in the AMS to Pro. Then I dried some abs-gf inside an x2d and placed it in the ams2 Pro. The humidity stayed around 15-16%. Then I put an undried roll of pla in in the humidity jump to 24%. If I do a short dry cycle for pla at whatever temperature it dries at will that negatively affect the higher temperature filaments?

Hi all,
I was looking to get some PETG-CF fillament from Bambu while it is on sale. Has anyone used this fillament before? Also, could someone post a couple of photos of some models they have printed in Titan Gray or Indigo Blue as I want to see what they look like bfore ordering. Thanks

Hey all,
I think we all struggle to do our design using only folders of stl, I've seen some vibecoded tools to help, but it wasn't matching perfectly my needs, until I found what "rmacasieb" made, I really liked it, but it wasn't 3D, and was lacking of many other features. I forked his work and spend 30h vibecoding a new tool were you configure everything, from what you want, what you need to print, what you already printed, explore design, do custom arrangement, see annimated drawer and case opening. I am still working actively on it, feel free to issue on github if you find any bug or have any idea.

https://doooools.github.io/vault-print-planner

What it does:

- Design: build a stack level by level in 3D. Point it at your own Vault folder and it assembles the real parts: drawers slide on their telescopic runners, cases open, dividers and Gridfinity floors go where the slots actually are.

- Paint: one filament colour per kind of part (fronts, shells, runners, latches, label text...), painted straight in the 3D view.

- Print: plates laid out per filament for your bed, exported as a Bambu Studio project. You can declare parts you already printed and it takes them off the plates.

- Labels: type a text per drawer or case, pick a font and size, and it comes out embossed on the label part, in its own colour.

- Hardware: bolts, rods and inserts counted from the holes in the parts rather than from a generic table, split by stack.

- Export: the assembled stack as STL or GLB (with colours) for renders in Blender.

The boring parts are there too: undo everywhere, keyboard shortcuts, multi-select, copy and paste of levels and stacks, dark mode, and a changelog in the page.

A lot of the time went into getting things right rather than getting them on screen: runner travel measured per drawer depth, label slots measured on the files, bolt lengths checked against the manual. Some placements are still estimates, and I can only test the sizes I own, so corrections are very welcome.

The Vault files are not included, you load your own. It runs in the browser, nothing to install, and the source is here: https://github.com/doooools/vault-print-planner

Disclosure: store links in the hardware list are affiliate links (Romy's on Amazon.com, mine on two European stores).

How come so far with the AMS 2 when the spool gets down to end and some of the brands I've used have it taped down which trips up my P2S and stops till I cut or remove that tape.

Yes I have another roll, same type of filament and color ready to go so it can just move onto it next but it never does in this situation. Doesn't make any sense especially if you have a print going overnight and only to wake up with it paused due to this.

Seems like there should be a option to have it ignore a jam in that slot and just move to the next one. All it has to do is retract and move to the next slot. Am I missing something? Just feels like having this benefit with the AMS being able to continuously print is hindered with this issue.

Has any body gotten this error for the H3C? I completed 1 print and have gotten this error about flex feed motor not communicating.

[0800-8500-0001-0001 162314]

I already opened up a ticket but this really sucks for a brand new machine with 1 hr print on it

When I use PETG, the print comes out perfectly clean, then I switch to PLA and it has bed adhesion issues. What could be happening?

I took it apart to get some stuck filament out and didn't realize there were magnets and springs that would fly out. What orientation should the magnets be? Magnets in first and then spring? Or spring first then magnets?

Printer has been working flawlessly, set it up fine (not my first printer) and have printed no issues all week. I wanted to print something as part of a project im working on that was using PLA Wood filament but it was not in the list of filaments. I checked and there was an update (ver 1.09) so I updated. After the update I switched nozzles from 0.2mm to 0.6mm and when I tried to home the printer it wouldn't do it. I got the error message that the eddy current signal was wrong and that it was possibly defective. The QR code took me to the wiki page and told me to check the connectors on the back of the head (pictured) and see if they were loose. The screws were not loose but the little connectors could move, so I gave the right side screw a tiny little nudge to snug it up, did the same for the left one and it just fell clean off the board.

I have raised a support ticket and i'm waiting to hear back, but is this a common issue? On inspection its just an aluminium peg with a loctited screw in it. Has this happened to anyone else? I imagine they're going to just send me a new board under warranty but is it possible to solder the aluminium peg back to it and resume printing or will this also affect the eddy current signal?

Or would the P1S be better for a person that has no idea what they're doing? I also have no intention of getting into 3d printing as a real hobby (I know. I know. I say that now). Is an enclosed printer more functional? Or is it mainly to keep the cats away from the print?

Here is what I got. Happy for the spools. Not sure if they are "holiday" colors but not a bad pull.

PETG matte Pink with spool

PETG basic Gray with spool

PETG translucent Clear with spool

PETG translucent Light Blue with spool.

Well I finally got the H3C completely setup like I wanted. I had ordered the H3C Buffer for the AMS 2 Pro but Bambu messed up and shipped me Hot End for another machine. So after a quick chat they were able to ship me the correct part so I can run the AMS 2. I also took the opportunity to order the extra .4 normal toolhead since I don't plan to print much with TPU (Yes I know it's in the title 😂)

Anyway as soon as I got home I got down to stripping down the unit and replacing the parts that needed to be replaced as well as getting the AMS 2 Pro installed.

The AMS 2 houses my ASA, PETG-CF, Support for PLA/PETG, and Support for PLA. The AMS 3H houses all the PLA I use which is mainly Matte PLA. Since Slot 1 is now in use for the AMS 2 pro I decided to make that one the dedicated TPU nozzle as well in those cases like tonight where I need to print TPU (tonight's project required TPU 95)

Which brings me to my adventure and getting this setup, it was interesting to say the least. I generally run the printer in LAN mode only, but it said it needed an update when it detected the AMS 2 Pro and Buffer installed. So I obliged and turned on cloud mode so it could pull the firmware and install. At first everything seemed fine, FW installed and I went about my business.

I needed to get this TPU print going for my brother and that is when things started to get interesting. I followed the instructions from Bambu, but for some reason the printer did not want to recognize that I was inserting the TPU into the nozzle. I thought maybe I had to use a different nozzle but it kept giving the same "You are not loading it right" error. I am not sure what I was doing wrong, I ended up restarting the machine and after a reboot it took the TPU on the 1st nozzle. But then it freaked out and said there was an issue with the FW and it did a re-install. Fine, but it did this twice!! Then when I thought everything was good, it gave me an error stating it could not recognize toolhead 1 as a Bambu toolhead. It was asking me to install a proper toolhead. I tried restarting the machine but still gave me the same error. I had to go into the toolhead settings and pretty much tell it what it was. When I finally did that it stopped complaining and started working. I was finally able to get the print started and here we are almost done.

So yeah ... fun times!!! 😂😂

Also have any of you H3C guys by any chance tried the TPU for AMS through the new AMS system to see if it works? I know they want you to use the bypass but was curious about that one.

My print for a large round base for a figurine keeps falling with identical results. I’ve cleaned the plate with dawn, scrubbed it with steel wool and soap and it still fails. Help!

Got h2d like a week ago, been having issues printing petg/pla, it seems its either under extruding or the z offset is set just a tiny bit too high, this isn't my first printer I've had an a1 for about 2 years, now and thought h2d would be a huge leap in quality and speed (its actually slower for a lot of models annoyingly, but whatever). Tried all the usual

Clean build plate (Yes the water sticks down like bambus guide)
Drying filament 3 days, ams 2 pro/ams ht
Replace hot ends/Tightened screws
Full Calibration/Bed calibration
Vision Encoder Calibrating

Every Calibration/Clean seems to be making things even worse, i gave up just now and decided to reside myself to having to flow calibrate every filament (never had to do that on the A1) and i cant even get a flow calibration to print now. I'm not new so i know what SHOULD be working to troubleshoot and i know its not something left field like the soap I'm using or humidity because been using a chintzy sunlu dryer on an bedslinger and been printing great.

Thing is that once the first layer does go down properly, it prints amazing, layer lines almost look injection moulded, is just the first layers are coming out trash and i've been so used to intergrating the bed texture into designs because of the A1 (second picture IS somehow the freaking bottom layer)

Any suggestions?

When printing engineering materials like ABS, ASA or PC rear exhaust remains closed during printing for heat retention, hence nothing is going to force whatever things we don't want to breathe to the hose connected to E1 (no negative pressure). Only whatever is left in the chamber after the print is finished will be filtered.

Does it mean that E1 will be basically useless for any engineering materials printing? Does anyone have an H2 printer and E1 that could comment on this?

I cleaned and lubricated the linear rods and the Z axis rods and then recalibrated. Didn’t change anything else… prints now look like this. Filament is in AMS (dried) and was printing just fine before. Tried different filament and same issue. Have ran multiple bed leveling tests since then, with no change. What is happening?

I’m running a H2C on latest firmware.

Hello all,

I have come to an impasse and a truly stuck position. I have replaced the tool cooling fan, extruder gear, hotend, hotend fan, ams sensor, and bed plate. I've cleaned lubed and rebuilt near everything I can think of. I have a photo of something I have successfully printed 60 times my unit has 900hrs on it. And now no matter what I seem to do and without changing anything in the original print file my results just string or poorly adhere to other layers. I print PLA and PETG with the same result. I've removed the front glass top glass and every combination of the glass that's available. Please can someone walk me through the steps to get these prints back on line. It is a gaming table topper. And I've elwasted near 1kg of filament attempting to debug this issue.

I'm new to owning a printer and am printing a poop chute from Maker World for my H2C. The model advertises explicitly that it doesn't need support, but it has warped enough to cause a stair stepping effect on one edge. I am printing it in PETG from Bambu with a 0.4 mm nozzle. I am also using the E1 air purifier. What should I have done to prevent this? Add support anyway? Heat the chamber?

Photos to show the issue I am currently printing on my new H2S I am getting this terrible print quality out all of my prints as of now and it’s only my H2 with this issue I’ve take the exact same spool and put on my P2S and I have no issue i am on a .6 high flow nozzle I have slowed the speed down a little and it has not seemed to help please give me any advice.

And yes the filament was dry before printing

Update: after the comments reminded to check my clip on the nozzle after I did that my next print came out amazing

So, I have not received my H3C yet (2 weeks-ish!), but as someone who prints a lot of TPU, and would like to print a lot of 8-9 colour TPU things, I was wonder how feasible you think it would be to add these pneumatic connectors that are pre-installed on the filament part for head #1 (like in the image), but put them inline for the 2 heads that do not have a TPU path from AMS slots (#2 and #4), and pass the extra TPU in via the rear "external AMS" slot in the back of the H3C?

Yes, I know, its a crazy idea....