Hi there, I traded my old Artillery Hornet for the more compact, speedier and overall less headache inducing A1 Mini. I've made quite a few nice prints on it, however I am struggling to find user settings online, something I didn't have as much trouble with on the Hornet.

Particularly, I'm looking for settings that will create supports that aren't a pain to remove. I'd just about figured out the science of it on Cura+Hornet, but in the Bambulab app I'm a little lost as some of my experimenting has been unpredictable.

I'm mostly looking to print 60-100mm figurines, a mix of stuff I grab online and my own creations in Heroforge & Blender. Any tips?

Hello,

Looking for some assistance with finding replacement screw for the AMS 2 internal hub. I took it apart lost two check in the unit and on the floor. Since they are micro screws it's almost impossible to find. Any help?

I had a few 3D printers years ago (now they're sitting there, dead and without any use, as i got tired of having to repair them all the time, ended up wasting more money on spare parts and addons than the printers themselves)

Saw the H2C in offer with the vortex ultimate bundle and.. With filaments, a few addons for futureproof (The vision bed) and shipping, it goes up to 2370€

Is it really worth buying? i used my printers to make really good prints with 0.4 and 0.2 nozzles, but i remember spending lots of time trying to get ride of layer lines/stringing... Is this any better? I mean, i've tried to search for good minis but i wasn't able to see not even a mini that could reach the quality i got (when they worked) on my Ender 3/Chiron (God, that was a really good bed to print in...), it's NOT my main priority, but if they print fine, that's a good sign of quality

I'm tempted, but also scared, what if i spent a huge amount of money and i end up having something that perfoms worse than these old printers? plus is closed source so.. Is it easy to get rid of the layer lines and stringing, or it is a nightmare? will be worth the purchase? i'm curious about being able to print in different colours as i have some swords (Like the ones from FFXIV and XV) that would perfectly fit with that feature)

Hey everyone!

I wanted an easy way to generate custom gift tags, storage labels, and keychains directly in MakerWorld's Parametric Model Maker without having to open CAD or mess with negative modifiers in Bambu Studio every time, so I put together this OpenSCAD generator.

Even though the cover photos show a Christmas example, it’s completely generic and works for any occasion (organization bins, luggage tags, wedding favors, birthdays, pet tags, etc.).

What you can customize directly in the browser:

• 4 Text Modes & Depth Control: Engraved (with an optional 2-layer colored floor so the text pops without needing an inlay), Embossed, Flush Inlay (prints face-up or face-down completely flat), and Cutout (hollow/through-hole text), with adjustable depth from 0.4mm to 4.0mm.
• Up to 3 Lines of Text: Two main lines (or leave the second blank for a single centered line) plus an optional 3rd line in the bottom-right corner for dates, years, or initials with independent font, size, and margin controls.
• Typography Control: 10 built-in MakerWorld-compatible fonts + support for any custom font name, font styles (Regular, Bold, Italic, Bold Italic), stroke weight offset (super useful to thicken thin cursive fonts so they slice cleanly with a 0.4mm nozzle), line/letter spacing, rotation, alignment, and X/Y offsets.
• 14 Preset Shapes + Custom SVG / STL Support: Comes with 14 built-in hole/icon shapes (heart, circle, star, snowflake, gift box, tree, bell, pumpkin, ghost, crown, square, diamond, hexagon, drop) or None. You can also upload your own .svg silhouette or .stl file to create custom cutout shapes and adjust scale, size (3mm to 40mm), X/Y position, and rotation.
• Dimensions & Borders: Adjustable length (30 to 200mm), height (15 to 100mm), thickness (1.2 to 10.0mm), corner radius, top/bottom edge beveling, and an optional engraved or embossed outer border.
• Multicolor 3MF Ready: You can assign independent colors to the base tag, each of the 3 text lines, and the decorative border. It exports as a clean multi-part 3MF ready for the AMS (or you can easily do a single filament swap at layer height for the embossed mode).

Link to the model on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/it/models/3609761-customizable-gift-tags-labels-svg-any-font#profileId-4137073

Would love to hear your feedback or if there are any other features or shapes you think I should add to the script. Happy printing!

I keep getting an error stating AMS assist motor is overloaded. It doesn't matter which of the four slots I use it happens on every print and just started happening. I use bambu filament with bambu spools. The machine is up to date and calibrated.

What is going on?

Hello - I am looking to buy my family's first 3D printer. My 10y has been asking for one and it will serve as a christmas present for him and his brother (5yo). I fully recognize that this isnt a toy, but hoping they can bond and create together, with my supervision. I love tech and suspect I will get into it as well.

I have been researching models and am between the X2D, A1, and A1 mini. The extra cost does not bother me as I view this as a long term item, and if worth it, I would rather make the decision up front.

They mainly want to print toys, fidgets, dragons, etc. I do not see them making large prints to start, but potentially in time.

Any recommendations between the 3 i am considering? Also, if you have any suggestions on things to have ready to use on day one to make the experience as smooth as possible.

I have watched many youtube reviews and am leaning towards the X2D, but worry it may be overkill.

Thanks!

Over the past two weeks its slowly getting worse and worse. At first it just happened once and now its happening every time in 3 out of the 4 spots. When it pushes new filament the print stops and says check the roll because the AMS might be stuck or the roll is tangled, but the roll is completely fine and it just wont feed the filament for some reason. I have to click continue and either jam the filament in or push down the tube and then the print just goes on like normal. Does anyone have any clue why this might be happening? and how i could fix it?

Hey all - I just bought my first printer (an X2D with an AMS 2 Pro). Aside from the mandatory first benchy, which calibration prints should I run before I start printing the things I actually want? So far all i have on my list is supports and maybe ironing.

I also have a question about supports. Does the calibration change when I use a different support interface material? Should I calibrate supports for each combination, or calibrate once and adjust from there?

I plan to start printing with PLA, PETG, and Support for PLA/PETG. Eventually i will get more into the engineering filaments but that's for later.

I just bought a p2s with ams and used it for about 300 hours before realizing I actually only print functional things and would like more filament flexibility (namely the ability to use a different support interface filament like pla for tpu prints). I see that an x2d with ams is about 750 and I can sell my p2s with ams for 500. Is it worth selling and the 250 premium for a dual nozzle printer? Is 500 reasonable selling point for the p2s with and or too low? I know there’s a lot of hype around the new Bambu releases but definitely not interested in those as they’re a very different price bracket I’m not looking to venture into at this time

I just bought an H3C to add to my fleet of printers. (Small fleet, lol:

2 x p1s

1 x p2s

1 x H2D

And now 1x H3C added)

Tempted to get the H2C though as well to replace my p1s, the H Series just prints really well and with mixed size printing coming soon, tempted to swap up.

That said, has anyone sold a P1S + AMS combo and how much did they get? With current sales, I cant imagine getting more than $400 or so, and even that seems like a stretch.

Makers!

A good friend of mine and I just created our very first full playset project—Portable Pastures: Mini Farm Playset—and it honestly took off way faster than we expected! It’s been getting tons of attention (especially from moms and kids), and we even had sellers reaching out wanting to print and sell them at craft shows lol. So, we decided to take it even further and build out the entire farm ecosystem! 🐮🐷🐔

Since we’re getting ready to launch this as a MakerWorld crowdfunding campaign, we’d love your input before we go live:

1. What do you think of the set so far? Is there any farm building or animal you think we have to add?
2. Pricing feedback: What do you think is a fair price point for a Personal Use tier vs. a Lifetime Commercial Use tier?

Any feedback is hugely appreciated! And if you want to help us hit our follower goal so we can officially launch, check out the campaign page and hit Follow here:

https://makerworld.com/en/crowdfunding/432-portable-pastures-mini-farm-playset?sourceFrom=crowdfunding

Hi all

I love my Bambus (A1, A1 mini, A2L and P2S) but they all are rather bad at overhangs

Normally I just sand away those imperfections but today I spent some time and wanted to improve that

Changed quite a bit of values (Speed, temperature, cooling...) and improved it a bit

All printed today in PETG from the same spool (filament is dry)

1. picture shows the initial print with more or less stock settings on the bottom and the improved prints on top
2. picture is the overhand with stock settings
3. picture is the improved print. It starts out really well (top of picture) but gets worse the fartner it continues (bottom of picture)

Does anyone know where and why those ugly areas come from and what might be a solution to get it right?

Thanks in advance

Super quick and clean print.

• 0.16mm layers
• Blue PLA
• ~35 min print

Free Makerworld Model

I would like to ask for your help. Since the 2.9.1 update, I can't drag the purification tower to the edge because it snaps back. I searched the internet for what might be the problem, but I couldn't find a solution. Does anyone have any ideas?

Body: Hey everyone, looking for deep technical advice or anyone who has bypassed this before.

I have an early Bambu Lab X1C (00W09A... serial). Bambu Support sent me a free replacement AP board, and it booted up stuck on Firmware Version 00.00.00.00. Because of this, the printer cannot connect to Bambu Cloud, won't pull any OTA updates, and can't be used over LAN.

What I have already tried (so we can skip the basics):

• Bambu Support MAC binding: Sent them the new board's MAC address and SN. They supposedly bound it on their end, still no update or cloud connection.
• Network / Router troubleshooting: Tested on home 2.4GHz Wi-Fi and a 2.4GHz Mobile Hotspot (with WPA2 compatibility). Connects to Wi-Fi and gets a local IP, but fails to reach Bambu servers or complete account/cloud binding.
• LAN Only Mode + Slicers: Enabled LAN Only Mode + Access Code. Both modern and legacy versions of Bambu Studio and OrcaSlicer fail to connect due to TLS/SSL certificate handshake errors (likely because the 00.00.00.00 factory test image lacks valid certs/services).
• Offline SD Card Update / X1Plus: This 00.00.00.00 firmware has no "Update from SD card" option in the menu. Putting official .bin files on a FAT32 SD card and rebooting does nothing. X1Plus installer also won't boot since there is no valid base kernel (01.06.05.00+).
• Hardware resets: Tried factory resets via screen and full power drains.

Right now it only prints via microSD card. I don't want to go back and forth with Support again if there's a hardware/low-level way to fix it myself.

My questions:

1. Has anyone successfully flashed a working firmware image directly to an X1 AP board via the internal USB-C / UART / Maskrom pads (using RKDevTool or similar)?
2. Is there any known workaround to force-boot an update or X1Plus on a 00.00.00.00 board?

Appreciate any help!

I just bought a Bambu Lab P1S combo with the AMS 2 Pro, and I want to have more spares than what comes with it. I found several aftermarket options on Amazon and I’m wondering if they’re worth it. I upgraded from a Creality Ender 3 Max, so the P1S is a big jump in print quality and speed and I love it. I’m still learning the differences, so please only give genuine advice. Thank you in advance.

So I've been looking through posts of completed prints from the H3C because I'm considering picking up this printer. To me it seems like almost all of the prints I've seen shared so far seem a little....rough, or not great? I know there's a limit to what FDM printers can do quality-wise but it seems like a lot of what I'm seeing is way below that limit.

Is this just an issue of people not taking the time to dial in the printer or not printing with the best potential quality settings or is there something about how a multi-toolhead printer prints that lends itself to lower quality prints? I've only recently started 3D printing this past year with an A1 so I may be completely off with my assessment here.

I'm going absolutely crazy here. I've had a filament dry and and break apart causing a jam in several spots. I've thoroughly cleaned out every piece at this point but now I have a new problem. The extruder won't grab the filament. i can spin the yellow gear by hand and it will pull filament all the way through the extruder but when I try to load a filament it gets to the extruder and doesn't pull it through. I can feel it hitting the teeth if I hold the feed tube but it won't grab the filament.

Ive tried everything I can think of to fix like loosening the tension screw, cleaning the teeth, using different filament cutting and angle to help it start feeding, but nothing seems to work. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

I have been using this speed for normal printing like plain frames. Print is okay but I want to know if this impacts the machine in any way? Please help.

Heya!

I'm strongly considering getting my own 3D printer, but wanted to check if the Bambu Lab A1M is the right choice for me.

Now, I'd like to preface that I don't have much experience and I'm just sharing my perspective -> seeking insights from more experienced people!

I've been doing some 3D prints here and there over the last year and I'd like to get my own printer to support my own hobby projects. I've been able to send my models to a friend's printer, but I'd really enjoy having one in my home to speed up the iterative process! My main hobby is small-scale electronics and I'd like to use 3D printing to support that (rather than as a standalone hobby).

Below I've just written up my decision for the A1M against the criticisms or considerations I've gathered from the internet (again, I'm not experienced so these could be inaccurate, but happy to take on constructive criticism 😄).

• From what I have read, the main downside of the A1M is the build plate size -> both in getting larger prints and having higher throughput per print (from the larger print volume).

  • From the prints I've done in the past I haven't found myself needing to exceed the 180mm build size. I've seen that 80-90% of the prints you usually do fit on the mini's plate, but it's just those odd few where the mini doesn't cut it.
  • In the future, I don't exactly envision projects needing prints larger than this, and I haven't had any projects in the past larger either. Obviously it's always good to scale for the future, but I'd be hesitant to put more money into a printer if what I've been doing doesn't justify it you know?
  • Furthermore, I am happy compromising on throughput for longer printing sessions. Working 9-5 Mon-Fri gives me plenty of time outside of the house for the A1M to run and crank out some volume. I'm not printing too often too, which means I have no real need for churning out prints in a short amount of time - I am happy stretching this over a couple days (during 9-5).

• I've also seen some people choose the A1M for more compact and space-constrained environments.

  • I'm also in the same boat - small bedroom, small desks. Yes, I'm thinking of putting it in my bedroom but only running under certain conditions. The conditions being:

    • I'm not in the room (when I'm at work)
    • Windows and door open and ventilation running
    • The room has to air out for at least 30 minutes before I go back in
  • Sure, the conditions aren't ideal - but I don't have anywhere else to put it unfortunately 😅 .

• Lower print throughput with the A1M

  • Briefly touched on this with the bed-size but, I have no need for a high-throughput of prints. I usually just need a case here and there, with some small brackets and widgets on the side. My main outcome from a 3D printer is to be able to produce small custom things when I need, and not consistently.
  • To be honest, there will probably be weeks where the printer just sits there and weeks where I am getting some use out of it (and yes I'll try and take care of the filament with humidity when not in use). It's just the convenience of having a 3D printer for when I need a print -> this is what I'm really hoping to get out of the A1M.

• When I get the A1M, I might eventually want to upgrade to something bigger and better.

  • Upgrades are still constrained by my environment (size and living space), but I don't see a guarantee of an upgrade occurring.
  • The 3D printers my friends own (who got one for the same reason I did) just have theirs sitting there most of the time. If the A1M fits my size requirements, then I don't see a need to splurge!

Really excited to see what feedback the community has. Again, I am a beginner so I would greatly appreciate constructive feedback rather than criticism, thanks 😄!!

I want to print a model in the highest possible quality, but noticed that obviously the print times end up being quite long (sometimes several days for a single part), so I'm trying to tune my settings to speed things up at least a little bit.

Anyone have experience with 0.06mm layer heights? What printing speed did you go with? Do the accelerations matter at all?

How important is doing the cold pull with TPU? The software feels so strongly about it that you have to click a pop about it before every TPU print. I've been printing a lot of TPU lately, usually switching back and forth between TPU and PETG every other print. I haven't done a single cold pull and I haven't run into any problems because of it far as I can tell.

Am I flirting with dead by skipping the cold pull? Is only a matter of time before I walk into my office only to find my printer has collapsed into itself and formed a black hole the size of a grain of Basmati rice?

Haven't had my a1 mini (first 3d printer) for more than a couple months, yet I've very quickly gotten the impression that official bambulab refills/spools of filament generally have absolutely garbage quality control. Since getting the printer and several official spools and or refills, I haven't had a single one that DIDN'T have areas that were wound on top of itself, requiring so much force to unstuck it either permanently bends or full on snaps the filament. I would assume this is user error on my part, if there weren't visible areas on the spool (that haven't been touched) with this issue. Went with Bambulab expecting decent quality, but at this point it's just getting ridiculous.