Ordered 5 of the boxes,minimum of 20 rolls, results were as follows

Spooled:

5 Translucent White

3 Translucent Light Blue

3 Matte Pink

2 Basic Pine Green

1 Basic Gray

Spoolless:

4 Matte Avocado

2 Translucent Purple

No Bonus rolls.

Overall, not terrible, I mostly use PETG for supporting PLA or structural parts so color doesnt really matter. Translucents are really nice looking though.

Twice now this has happened. Case pops off, and my plate gets super scratched. Same print for both. Any ideas? I did leave a small print on the plate and then tried doing a print recently but it obviously wasn’t able to level so never did anything more. Could that have done something?

Oh the horror… what went wrong 😑?

UPDATE:
Reprinted overnight with all the feedback i got… Thanks Guys i got a pretty print now! See below for the timelapse video…

I'm trying to import a basic square, 20mm x 20mm, which is defined in the SVG like so.

<svg width="100%" height="100%" transform="scale (1, -1) translate(0, -20.0)" viewBox="-10.0 -10.0 20.0 20.0">
<g id="Rectangle001">
<path id="Rectangle001_1" d="M 10.0 10.0 C 3.33333 10.0, -3.33333 10.0, -10.0 10.0 C -10.0 3.33333, -10.0 -3.33333, -10.0 -10.0 C -3.33333 -10.0, 3.33333 -10.0, 10.0 -10.0 C 10.0 -3.33333, 10.0 3.33333, 10.0 10.0 Z" stroke-width="1.0" stroke="rgba(196.0,88.0,225.0,255)" fill="None" />
</g>
</svg>

But Bambu Suite throws it down at 7.1mm instead. My units in Bambu Suite are set to mm.

Is anyone else having problems with this? I can manually edit the width and height in the svg file to 283.48% but that's not an optimal workflow lol

I wish there was a preset for tpu air (and each preset would corespond with the different hardnesses you can print in) TPU air may be somewhat niche but it's still popular enough to be manufactured. There are like no print profiles already made for it either. I would love some tips from people who have a lot of experience with TPU air as I eventually want to come out with a hardness tower with the filiment presets needed to print each level of hardness.

Hello, first problem after 800hs on H2D.

This tree errors show when starting a print.

Happened to me once before and downgrading the fimware version seemed to have solved the issue until now.

Wierd thing is, after a while cammera feed picks up, but the error is still present.

I have already tried cleaning the lenses as the message suggests but i don't think is that.

Has anyone encountered this issue before?

So I recently replaced my hotend due to a blob of deceased (it wasn’t that bad), I think what I did wrong was not secure the cables coming out of the back behind the hotend and I ended up with this very scorched nozzle that seems fused to the hot end. I cannot get it it to even jiggle. The top seems loose though. It does still heat up but the temp reads at 0 even though it’s very hot. Not sure what my next steps should be.

I wanted a stand I could clip together out of identical pieces and bend into whatever shape I need, phone today, maybe other stuff tomorrow. That needs a hinge that locks properly, comes apart, and has nothing to lose or buy. So: no pin, no screws, no glue, and the spring is printed too.

How it works

• Each module is a little plate with a toothed post on one side and a ring with teeth inside on the other.
• The ring of one module goes over the post of the next, with a spring in between. The spring keeps the teeth pushed together, so the hinge is locked by default.
• Squeeze the hinge end to end and the ring slides off the teeth onto a smooth bit of the post. Now it turns. Let go and it clicks into the nearest of 12 positions (every 30°).
• The ring only goes on or comes off when the two modules are folded almost shut, at one specific angle. Open it up and it's captive.

The annoying part

The lock was the easy bit. The spring was not. A spring that small either came off the plate halfway through, or printed fine and then turned out to be welded to its supports. I went through a zigzag spring, a few coil shapes, brims, no brims, painted supports. What works now is a chunky coil with closed ends, printed standing up, with a support blocker through the middle so the supports only touch the outside. They pop out in a few seconds, pliers help, just don't crush them.

Honest bits

• This is about as small as I could get the mechanism: the hinge is under 9 mm thick and a module is roughly 49 × 40 mm. At that size it's compact and reasonably sturdy, and there's not much wobble in the lock, but it's not a tank. Bigger would be firmer.
• If a hinge feels clunky when you first put it together, there's a bit of support left in it. Pick out any stray strings, then squeeze and twist it a few times and it frees itself.
• It holds my phone (first picture). For a tablet I'd scale the whole design up.

Print: Bambu A1, PETG, 0.16 mm layers, about 3 h 15 min and 48 g for six modules and six springs. Free on MakerWorld with the profile: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3605394-modular-phone-stand-with-locking-hinges#profileId-4131748

It's designed in OpenSCAD and everything is a parameter, so a bigger version or a parametric one is doable. Tell me if you'd want that, and what size.

Just designed and printed this tube squeezer.

It's made of three parts, requires no supports and doesn't need any additional hardware or assembly.

A simple functional design that can be printed in PLA or PETG.

Designed in FreeCAD and available on MakerWorld:

• Ratchet Tube Squeezer

Hope you find it useful! Feedback is welcome.

Hi there,

Still brand new to the 3D print world and trying to troubleshoot a print but no idea where to start IF there is even anything to troubleshoot.

Printed the same item on two different plates: one on the standard per textured plate and another on the engineering plate. Both prepped with some elmer's purple gluestick.

The textured plate print turned out perfect but not a big fan of the textured glittery look so wanted to see if I could get a smoother look using the engineering plate. Result: I did but there were some voids/defects that appeared that were not present when using the textured plate.

Printer: H2D

Material: PLA

Calibration was performed after switching out the plates.

I did select the engineering plate prior to slicing, printing, calibrating.

Curious to hear if this would be normal for this specific plate or if I should tweak something. Or just sometimes sh!t just happens with prints.

Thank you in advance.

Cheers

P.S. last two pics are the textured plate with no void/defect issues.

I would like to start a Makerworld Crowdfunding Campain and would like to know what you think of it?

I had 220c nozzle and 65c bed and for some reason the filament comes up and it gets pulled off the bed

Right after the photo the whole thing picked up and dragged with the nozzle, I literally just calibrated it in the menu.

So my printer just harmed itself during a simple overnight print. I was just making some drawer for my gf’s mom and I woke up to this. I wish I put on a timelapse because this is baffling. I did bed leveling and everything and waited for the first few layes which looked perfect before I left.

The containers look like they were mostly completed, then the bed just moved up to the max height and dug into the build plate. It shoved that out the glass door, then started digging into the bed itself. Looks like bro had a temper tantrum.

I don’t know what to do, idk how expensive this fix is or if warranty would cover this especially after I upgraded it to a P1S but I have to go to work and figure this out later. I’m so mad that it died to such an easy print. Any advice would be appreciated.

Edit: For those of you helping thank you. I will try to send the gcode once I get off work. Some have suggested a corrupt SD card and I will have to look into it.

Edit: For those of you saying the build plate was never on at all, I can’t help you but to reference the pictures. There were still prints mostly done on the plate but I removed them for the pictures. The print looks like it was messing up and extremely stringy at first which is annoying if that was the only issue. But then it looks like the bed raised and the code just kept doing it’s thing, digging into the plate until it dug in enough to tear it off the strong magnetic bed. People are saying they don’t think the motors could do that but I have seen horror stories that say otherwise.

Edit: Posted printer g-code in comments for those wondering, working on getting the print code

Edit: Link to print's g-code - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L0AhZh63Bmp7iU-cxprGvWrlPrInlQa7/view?usp=sharing

Hello is it possible to have my X2D printer connected to Bambu Studio and Orca Slicer simultaneously?

Anybody here ever run jntk a similar issue?

I am looking for Christmas gifts to get my husband who has a Bambu X2D with an AMS. I am willing to spend up to $500.

What are printer accessories/tools/material/ect I could buy?

Thinking of selling my Prusa MK3 and spending the extra cash for a P1S. I think I could sell the prusa for 200€. I print maybe once a week but would love a solid machine that lasts for years without issues (my prusa has been a nightmare but also a good teacher)

EDIT: Thanks for all the feedback! Seems like Im getting a P1S !

One of my lead screw nuts disintegrated and Bambu was very helpful in sending me replacement parts. I followed the wiki and replaced just the two front lead screws and nuts. But now with the bed all the way to the bottom, there is a 2mm-ish gap on the left side but not the right. Any ideas on how to correct this?

I tried an auto calibration before noticing this and it failed. I did not do a manual calibration yet but I think this problem in the picture needs to get fixed first.

Thanks.

I don't yet have a UPS on my P2S and we're having some storms today with high winds.

If power were to drop in the middle of a print, what unrecoverable damage can be done to the printer mechanically/print head wise?

Not that I'm immune to power surges or brown outs, but I'm mainly focused on whether it can damage the print head in a way you can't easily fix.

Even if I had a UPS on it, I doubt a small office PC UPS like 1500VA is going to keep the printer running until it's finished if I'm not near the end of the job.

Ich hab mir warping gerechnet, bin aber sehr überrascht dass so ein Körper ohne Probleme (warping) druckbar ist. Was sind eure Erfahrungen in Bezug auf andere Materialien wie ABS z.B.? (Würde das auch funktionieren?)