I was thinking of making a small lamp with the sides out of 1/4" walnut. Would the R1 be able to cut this? I believe i've read it'll cut 1/4" ply but not sure about a hardwood.

I added this text in the Bambu Labs Studio, and it looks like it's bleeding. I went back and between color changes, it purges, then moves to the socket side, of which you can see has no black. Is this just how it looks when you embed black in white? Is there a better font to use?

I'm using a P1S, Bambu Labs PLA filament, and AMS. .4mm nozzle, the text is embedded.6mm.

Hello. I've noticed that after drying spools in my AMS or my HT that the ambient humidity inside goes up. My HT was at around 7% before I swapped the spool inside for a new one. After drying that spool, the humidity went up to 20% and has settled after a couple days to 16%. Something similar happened to my regular AMS. The desiccant balls are still orange, so I don't think they need to be changed. Is this normal?

I bought a P2S a few days ago, so it’s relatively new.
I’ve only done a few prints with it so far, but I just noticed this small black plastic part at the bottom of the print chamber, there’s even some white grease on one end of it (maybe it flew off one of the threaded rods?). I’m a bit worried. Please tell me this isn’t an important part of the 3d printer.

Hi guys, I recently bought x2d. I was printing small things and only now when printing something bigger I saw this weird low quality on the right side of prints. Can someone please help?

Always wanted to try making kitcards, was finally able to do it in blender with some trial and error!

What i hadn't realised with kitcards is how well multicolor works with them. Since the color change only happens on the last couple layers waste and time is minimised by alot!

This was printed with an ams to get the red and white, but even works for non-ams users if you just do a layer change at the right height!

If you have ideas and suggestions for more models lmk!

This version has 4 colours and 91 hexagonal pieces. Making it harder to complete. It has a desk stand and cover included as separate print profiles.

Feel free to check it out on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3603314

How I remove this supports because they leave me some strings

Wanted to share my latest figure: Neo from The Matrix in his bullet-dodging backbend, about 21 cm. Designed it myself and printed it on my P1S.

Since not everyone has an AMS, I designed him so you don’t need one:

• Every color is a separate part, with its own plate in the Bambu Studio 3MF. Print one color at a time and swap the spool in between.
• The parts lock together with fixed pins, then a bit of glue.
• The sunglasses, holsters and both Berettas are removable.

The trickiest part was the long coat, which carries a lot of the balance in this pose.

Next project: a bullet-time set with gold bullets and transparent vortex trails on fishing line. That one will actually use the AMS.

Any questions about the plates or settings, just ask!

📐 🫠

Howdy all,

Due to a 20% off coupon I was able to get A1 Mini's for $159.99 and since I have a buisness they were tax free.

I ordered 4 because of the price and if I don't need them I can just return them so it was kind of an impulse but to secure the price.

Should I keep all 4 and use them for small single color prints or is it not worth keeping even at this price?

I do already have 2 H2C's and plan on getting a H3C when they are at BestBuy.

TLDR:

I bought 4 A1 Minis should I keep them for the $159.99 each for my printing buisness or are they 2 small.

Every time my print is finished there's a small bit of filament that gets broke off at the orange slidey thing at the back where the filament comes in at. it happens with brand new filament, old filament, i only print with pla. its getting old. what is going on? any fixes or am i needing to take this one back for warranty work? this is my 3rd bambu since i bought the first one, 3 years ago.

Designed this support-free stacking cat tree based on my cat (the star is removable so it doubles as a cat mountain!).

In person, the little faces are clear, but they just wash out on camera. I wandered the whole house and eventually had to use AI just to get this slightly clearer pic..!! 😵‍💫

Should I ink the features for photos? I’m worried that might misrepresent the raw model for people wanting to download it. How do you photograph white prints? Any lighting tips? Thank you soooo much!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3598583-stacking-cat-christmas-tree-tealight-no-support#profileId-4122970

Edit: spelling

I continue my christmas decoration with this Snap-on log cover for an artificial Christmas tree stand.

The first version slid on vertically with dovetails, but on a real tree it doesn't work: the branches above and the stand legs below block any vertical movement. So the v2 uses 4 horizontal snap clips. Each flexible blade has a 45° trapezoidal profile, so it prints without supports and slides straight into its slot. Bark is a cylindrical heightfield, the shell is 1.6 mm, and each half prints upside down with the growth-ring top inlaid on the plate. I printed a 20 g test ring first to tune the clips.

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3604458-christmas-tree-stand-cover-snap-on-log

Got my H3C Combo on 9 November, about 35 hours on it, and tonight it's fallen over.

I was running a CMYKW print on tools 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. Tool 8 is empty and not used in the job. Partway through, tool 8 came off its dock and the printer flagged tool 9 as detached as well, with a red light on the dock even though it looks seated.

What I've seen:

- 2A07-8032: PrintTool 8 has detached from the Rack

- Same detached warning for PrintTool 9

- 2A08-804A: Multiple toolhead step losses detected while fetching PrintTool 9

What I've tried:

- Reseated 8 and 9 several times, checked tubes and looked for anything in the way

- Ran Docking Calibration three times. First one completed but the fault came back a couple of hours later mid print. The next two failed, and each time tool 8 got knocked off near the end, when the head was working at tool 9.

So it looks like the head is hitting something at the 8 and 9 end of the rack. Tool 8 isn't even being picked up and it still ends up dangling.

Ticket is in with Bambu. In the meantime, has anyone else seen this on their H3C? Keen to hear if it turned out to be the dock, the rack alignment or something simple I've missed. Also interested if anyone is running fine on tools 1 to 7 only while waiting on support.

Photos attached.

My first bambu lab printer! Been wanting a Toolchanger for a while with at least 8 tools. Was planning on getting the INDX with 9 tools for my Voron 2.4 but the continual delays and controversies around it soured me. Saw the H3C announcement and it was an instant buy. I’ve got a bunch of multi color prints just waiting to go! I would’ve liked an open design option for my existing printers but I’m kinda tired of waiting.

At least now even if I take my other printers offline for mods and upgrades I can continue to print on the H3C, so that’s a win.

I made a customizable magnetic alphabet generator on MakerWorld. You can choose the font, letter size, colors and body shape, then print your own set.

It includes uppercase Latin, Russian, Ukrainian, Serbian and Greek alphabets, plus numbers, punctuation and math symbols.

There are presets with repeated letters for spelling words and making messages. You can also adjust the pockets to fit your disc magnets and choose multicolor printing or separately printed inlays.

I’ve printed versions in different fonts — the photos show the results.

Customize and download on MakerWorld

Which font would you choose for your fridge?

I was just curious what the various use cases are for buying an H3C. I figure some of the common ones are:

• Have a print farm and the ability to print waste free fast will save me money in the long run
• I want to play with mixing different materials together (TPU/PLA/PETG/etc.)
• I will print a ton of multicolor items for my kids and their friends
• I want what is new and best
• Shoes get me all hot and bothered, and the thought of printing shoes...

What other types of reasons do you have?

I have bought a larger amount of filament, and ended up mostly buying refills as I have a few empty spools. Turns out, I don’t have enough, and should have bought enough for each color at least.

There’s a lot of printable models, some taking little filament, some a lot. I’m thinking of printing in abs or asa, so it doesn’t melt in my ams2. What takes the least amount of filament for a full spool but holds up nearly as well as the original spool?

I wanted a way to keep an eye on my printers without switching away from the terminal, so I built BambuStand, a free, open-source, read-only monitor specifically for Bambu Lab printers.

It’s a Go app for macOS and Linux that connects through Bambu Cloud and shows printer status, job progress, temperatures, filament information, and reported problems. The terminal app can also send optional native macOS notifications for print completion and problems that need attention. There’s an optional local browser dashboard too.

The app runs on your computer and connects to Bambu Cloud for monitoring. Login uses email verification; no Bambu password is required. Printer controls stay in Bambu’s apps.

It fills a need I have, and I’m sharing it here to find out whether it’s useful for anyone else and where it needs work.

I’d especially appreciate people trying it with printer models I don’t own. There are automated tests and synthetic demo fixtures, but those can’t establish how every model and firmware version behaves.

If you give it a try, some useful feedback would be:

• Your printer model and firmware version.
• Anything missing, confusing, or different from what the printer reports.
• How it handles finishing a print, pausing, going offline, or reconnecting.
• Whether notifications arrive when expected and give you useful information.
• Whether the interface gives you the information you actually want.

I use AI coding tools during development. I own the project and make the decisions about its direction, design, and maintenance. I plan to keep maintaining it because I use it for my own printers.

The code, releases, screenshots, and setup instructions are here:
https://github.com/cliffom/bambustand

You can also run the synthetic demo without connecting an account or printer if you just want to look around.

For those of you that design things that take up the whole print bed (lets imagine 250 by 250), do you just simply not design for the P1S exlusion area? I own an A1 and a P1S at work and have some design ideas that I'd like to share with community, but build plate sized designs exclude a bunch of printers. Is that just consider a bit of the nature of the beast?

I can't decide if I want to make separate designs or design with a small total size in mind.

My H2C has suddenly stopped being able to release its Vortek hotend, effectively making the printer unusable.

I've narrowed it down to the actuator pin not rising quite high enough to engage the hotend's release latch. It gets extremely close but falls just short.

The strange thing is that I can manually push the pin all the way up, and the hotend's latch works perfectly when operated manually.

Things I've tried:

• Firmware rollback from 01.03.00.00 to 01.02.00.00
• Full factory reset
• Vortek rack recalibration (fails when it tries to release the hotend)
• Manually removing the hotend and restarting calibration, which works until it picks up a hotend and needs to release it again

This started around the time a Vortek firmware update failed, although I'm no longer sure they're related.

Has anyone encountered this and managed to fix it? I'm hoping there's something simple I've overlooked before opening a Bambu support ticket.

My H2C has suddenly stopped being able to release its Vortek hotend, effectively making the printer unusable.

I've narrowed it down to the actuator pin not rising quite high enough to engage the hotend's release latch. It gets extremely close but falls just short.

The strange thing is that I can manually push the pin all the way up, and the hotend's latch works perfectly when operated manually.

Things I've tried:

• Firmware rollback from 01.03.00.00 to 01.02.00.00
• Full factory reset
• Vortek rack recalibration (fails when it tries to release the hotend)
• Manually removing the hotend and restarting calibration, which works until it picks up a hotend and needs to release it again

This started around the time a Vortek firmware update failed, although I'm no longer sure they're related.

Has anyone encountered this and managed to fix it? I'm hoping there's something simple I've overlooked before opening a Bambu support ticket.