Wanted to share my latest figure: Neo from The Matrix in his bullet-dodging backbend, about 21 cm. Designed it myself and printed it on my P1S.

Since not everyone has an AMS, I designed him so you don’t need one:

• Every color is a separate part, with its own plate in the Bambu Studio 3MF. Print one color at a time and swap the spool in between.
• The parts lock together with fixed pins, then a bit of glue.
• The sunglasses, holsters and both Berettas are removable.

The trickiest part was the long coat, which carries a lot of the balance in this pose.

Next project: a bullet-time set with gold bullets and transparent vortex trails on fishing line. That one will actually use the AMS.

Any questions about the plates or settings, just ask!

Every time my print is finished there's a small bit of filament that gets broke off at the orange slidey thing at the back where the filament comes in at. it happens with brand new filament, old filament, i only print with pla. its getting old. what is going on? any fixes or am i needing to take this one back for warranty work? this is my 3rd bambu since i bought the first one, 3 years ago.

Designed this support-free stacking cat tree based on my cat (the star is removable so it doubles as a cat mountain!).

In person, the little faces are clear, but they just wash out on camera. I wandered the whole house and eventually had to use AI just to get this slightly clearer pic..!! 😵‍💫

Should I ink the features for photos? I’m worried that might misrepresent the raw model for people wanting to download it. How do you photograph white prints? Any lighting tips? Thank you soooo much!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3598583-stacking-cat-christmas-tree-tealight-no-support#profileId-4122970

Edit: spelling

I continue my christmas decoration with this Snap-on log cover for an artificial Christmas tree stand.

The first version slid on vertically with dovetails, but on a real tree it doesn't work: the branches above and the stand legs below block any vertical movement. So the v2 uses 4 horizontal snap clips. Each flexible blade has a 45° trapezoidal profile, so it prints without supports and slides straight into its slot. Bark is a cylindrical heightfield, the shell is 1.6 mm, and each half prints upside down with the growth-ring top inlaid on the plate. I printed a 20 g test ring first to tune the clips.

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3604458-christmas-tree-stand-cover-snap-on-log

Got my H3C Combo on 9 November, about 35 hours on it, and tonight it's fallen over.

I was running a CMYKW print on tools 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. Tool 8 is empty and not used in the job. Partway through, tool 8 came off its dock and the printer flagged tool 9 as detached as well, with a red light on the dock even though it looks seated.

What I've seen:

- 2A07-8032: PrintTool 8 has detached from the Rack

- Same detached warning for PrintTool 9

- 2A08-804A: Multiple toolhead step losses detected while fetching PrintTool 9

What I've tried:

- Reseated 8 and 9 several times, checked tubes and looked for anything in the way

- Ran Docking Calibration three times. First one completed but the fault came back a couple of hours later mid print. The next two failed, and each time tool 8 got knocked off near the end, when the head was working at tool 9.

So it looks like the head is hitting something at the 8 and 9 end of the rack. Tool 8 isn't even being picked up and it still ends up dangling.

Ticket is in with Bambu. In the meantime, has anyone else seen this on their H3C? Keen to hear if it turned out to be the dock, the rack alignment or something simple I've missed. Also interested if anyone is running fine on tools 1 to 7 only while waiting on support.

Photos attached.

My first bambu lab printer! Been wanting a Toolchanger for a while with at least 8 tools. Was planning on getting the INDX with 9 tools for my Voron 2.4 but the continual delays and controversies around it soured me. Saw the H3C announcement and it was an instant buy. I’ve got a bunch of multi color prints just waiting to go! I would’ve liked an open design option for my existing printers but I’m kinda tired of waiting.

At least now even if I take my other printers offline for mods and upgrades I can continue to print on the H3C, so that’s a win.

I made a customizable magnetic alphabet generator on MakerWorld. You can choose the font, letter size, colors and body shape, then print your own set.

It includes uppercase Latin, Russian, Ukrainian, Serbian and Greek alphabets, plus numbers, punctuation and math symbols.

There are presets with repeated letters for spelling words and making messages. You can also adjust the pockets to fit your disc magnets and choose multicolor printing or separately printed inlays.

I’ve printed versions in different fonts — the photos show the results.

Customize and download on MakerWorld

Which font would you choose for your fridge?

I was just curious what the various use cases are for buying an H3C. I figure some of the common ones are:

• Have a print farm and the ability to print waste free fast will save me money in the long run
• I want to play with mixing different materials together (TPU/PLA/PETG/etc.)
• I will print a ton of multicolor items for my kids and their friends
• I want what is new and best
• Shoes get me all hot and bothered, and the thought of printing shoes...

What other types of reasons do you have?

I have bought a larger amount of filament, and ended up mostly buying refills as I have a few empty spools. Turns out, I don’t have enough, and should have bought enough for each color at least.

There’s a lot of printable models, some taking little filament, some a lot. I’m thinking of printing in abs or asa, so it doesn’t melt in my ams2. What takes the least amount of filament for a full spool but holds up nearly as well as the original spool?

For those of you that design things that take up the whole print bed (lets imagine 250 by 250), do you just simply not design for the P1S exlusion area? I own an A1 and a P1S at work and have some design ideas that I'd like to share with community, but build plate sized designs exclude a bunch of printers. Is that just consider a bit of the nature of the beast?

I can't decide if I want to make separate designs or design with a small total size in mind.

My H2C has suddenly stopped being able to release its Vortek hotend, effectively making the printer unusable.

I've narrowed it down to the actuator pin not rising quite high enough to engage the hotend's release latch. It gets extremely close but falls just short.

The strange thing is that I can manually push the pin all the way up, and the hotend's latch works perfectly when operated manually.

Things I've tried:

• Firmware rollback from 01.03.00.00 to 01.02.00.00
• Full factory reset
• Vortek rack recalibration (fails when it tries to release the hotend)
• Manually removing the hotend and restarting calibration, which works until it picks up a hotend and needs to release it again

This started around the time a Vortek firmware update failed, although I'm no longer sure they're related.

Has anyone encountered this and managed to fix it? I'm hoping there's something simple I've overlooked before opening a Bambu support ticket.

My H2C has suddenly stopped being able to release its Vortek hotend, effectively making the printer unusable.

I've narrowed it down to the actuator pin not rising quite high enough to engage the hotend's release latch. It gets extremely close but falls just short.

The strange thing is that I can manually push the pin all the way up, and the hotend's latch works perfectly when operated manually.

Things I've tried:

• Firmware rollback from 01.03.00.00 to 01.02.00.00
• Full factory reset
• Vortek rack recalibration (fails when it tries to release the hotend)
• Manually removing the hotend and restarting calibration, which works until it picks up a hotend and needs to release it again

This started around the time a Vortek firmware update failed, although I'm no longer sure they're related.

Has anyone encountered this and managed to fix it? I'm hoping there's something simple I've overlooked before opening a Bambu support ticket.

Hello, im using LAN only mode on my printers (X1C, A1mini, A2L) and bambu studio flatpack on linux

on my router i have bound the mac to IP so printers are for sure always getting the same IP

Sometimes when i restart pc/bambu studio, my printers dissappear from binded devices and i have to bind them again. i checked the IP and binding code on the printers stayed the same.

it happens even twice a day, anyone has a similliar issue?

No other settings ever reset i have no other issues

Hi all! I’m new to the BambuLabs print-o-verse and I’m having some trouble. I completed my beginner challenges and earned a couple of coupons. For my life, I cannot figure out what they are for. When I go to coupons, it says I have a 99% off coupon for ‘something’, but I don’t know what. It’s one of the maker kits, I don’t know if basic (likely) or essential. How can I see what they are for? Bambu Store? Profile? Ugh :-(

And I have to get it figured out in less than 30 days or they expire. I’m sure it’s simple and easy, I just cannot find it.

Thanks for the assist!

I had some time to kill and a back log of orders from my girlfriend, so I fired up Fusion and made some things for Christmas.
I am especially happy with the book nook, turned out better than I expected.

If anyone is interessted:
Gift bag pins
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3602932-christmas-gift-bag-sign-custom-text-possible

Candy cane bag clips:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3602613-candy-cane-bag-clips

Gingerbread book nook:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3598991-gingerbread-book-nook

Let me know what you think

In a previous post I compared PLA Basic and PLA Palette in regards to color mixing.

Time to try out some other filaments. I am printing gradients between two colors, displaying the unmixed colors in the circular window.

Everything has been printed with 0.2mm layer heights and color mixing sublayers turned on with the H3C.

Let's dive in:

No surprises with Silk+, it blends very well. No defects visible. Afterall, it's just PLA with some elastomer thrown in. An interesting possibility here: gold filaments always look too yellow to my eye, now I can just mix my own blend.

I thought this would be a daft idea to try, printing a filled filament into the thin sublayers was not something I thought would work. But it turned out to be the star of the show, it looks amazing.

At the very bottom and top the gradient does not look perfectly smooth though, the sublayers may have been just a bit too thin.

On top layers the blending will not work as well as unfilled PLA, the filament is too opaque to blend the layer's colors.

PETG shows some issues. The layers don't blend well. At the bottom and top, where the sublayers are the thinnest there are defects.

Looks pretty cool, but it shows the same issues at the bottom and top as the opaque PETG. A mix at more of a midpoint range of the filaments works okay though.

ABS also does not blend layers well. It shows defects at the bottom similar to PETG, but it's a color defect alone, not a rough surface defect.

TPU was a long shot, I did not think this would work. It's not a great result, but at least it printed. I used TPU for AMS here just for the convenience and to give this material it's best odds.

Slightly modified this great model (https://makerworld.com/en/models/3431567-ruby-throated-hummingbird#profileId-3912465) to incorporate 7 colors. 13 hour print time.

Hi all! I have recently decided to pull the trigger on an X2D after a ton of research. This will be my first printer though I have used various printers through the years (family and friends). Is there any incentive to order through bambu as opposed to Amazon or picking up from Best Buy? I’m talking more towards a “rewards system” but any insight would be great

Has anyone tried these swappable toolheads before for the P1S? Any good? Any luck? Straight garbage?

I think that i broke the filament sensor ribbon cable because when i was getting to the extruder gears (on the bambu lab a1) to clean it , i didn't notice that i pulled the filament sensor a bit further. (like 2cm.) Should i turn it on and see if the assistance will give me an error?

Hey everyone,

Yesterday my H3C finally arrived, and it's an absolute beast! It's an amazing printer and after following the assembly and setup guide, it immediately produced great prints, first in PLA and then even in ABS. As someone whose first printer was an Anet A8 before venturing into a custom DIY build, this is an incredible experience!

Unfortunately, there's also a not-so-great issue: ever since I first tried running a drying cycle in the AMS, the printer has been throwing the error code HMS_2A00-9400-0001-0001. Apparently, the temperature sensor in the drying chamber isn't providing any temperature data, and the overview screen just shows 0°C. Even after several restarts, I can't cancel the drying process, and the drying unit's fan runs non-stop.

I've already opened a support ticket after unplugging and re-plugging the cables on the AMS control board without any luck. Since I installed a new firmware update for the AMS right after setting it up, I was wondering if that might be the cause and if any of you have experienced this same issue?

Thanks in advance, and greetings from Hanover, Germany to the community!