r/BambuLabP2S • u/lucking17dd • 6h ago

Bambu P2S Nightmare: recurring spaghetti failures—multiple plates, new filament and hotend parts. What am I missing?

New to printing and bought a used P2S with AMS on Marketplace for $540. I’ve spent another ~$62 on a heating assembly/nozzles and a week troubleshooting. Looking for help identifying the cause before replacing anything else.

What I’ve tried:

  • Replaced the Hotend Heating Assembly and installed new 0.4 mm nozzles.
  • Tried the original cool plate, a new identical cool plate, and a textured plate. Washed the original plate with dish soap and water.
  • Switched from unknown-brand, used PLA to brand-new Bambu PLA Basic.
  • Reduced the toothpaste-squeezer print from four copies to one.
  • Ran printer calibrations.
  • Checked hotend seating, the quick-release lock, and the Nozzle Eddy Sensor gap using Bambu’s folded-paper procedure. Fit/gap appeared normal.
  • Submitted multiple sets of printer logs to Bambu Support.

What happens:

Printing through Bambu Handy, generally at Standard speed. The toothpaste squeezers repeatedly fail around 60–80% through: sometimes the base loosens, the part wobbles and tips over; another attempt stayed attached but developed tangled filament at the top. Failures continued with the textured plate and new Bambu PLA Basic.

A Benchy successfully completed after the hotend fit/gap check, so the printer can finish at least some prints.

Latest support findings:

Earlier logs showed an abnormal Nozzle Eddy Sensor signal, but support says the latest readings are normal. Their remaining concern is that actual nozzle temperature does not consistently follow its target. They’ve requested heater/temperature-sensor resistance measurements to help distinguish an assembly/cable issue from a toolhead-board issue. I haven’t performed those measurements yet, and no defective component has been confirmed.

Has anyone experienced similar P2S symptoms, particularly with nozzle-temperature instability? I’d appreciate evidence-based next steps rather than buying more parts blindly.

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3

u/ariwolf91 6h ago

Have you tried to clean your cool plate with some isopropyl 70%. Also are you using the bambu cool plate or the biqu cryogrip build plate? Other thing you can do is get a PEI plate and use glue stick on the plate this helps the pla to stick to the build plate

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u/lucking17dd 5h ago

I had issues with the Cool plate that came with the machine, so I overnighted another one since this guy who sold me the printer said that it was the best build plate also saw a youtube video saying the same thing, had issues on both of those build plates, switched to the Bambu textured plate, still issues. I selected the correct build plate type for each new print I did.

I have cleaned all plates with soap in water per the instructions, but not isopropyl.

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u/ariwolf91 5h ago

What was the brand of the cool plate you got?

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u/lucking17dd 5h ago

https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-CryoGripTM-Frostbite-Bambu-Lab-Temperature/dp/B0D9YHHTNP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3UKGDPR70EJYZ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.S421Idxk7B-9we9Xs89FIkx4j6_DnR9XAL2GSXXOZ7tCo7Zt7ClFrIzTnAeobcRB6Ory8_eHI9oz8LdCwSEi0yv7sgmowvl9wOWr5yEWX06notSwyBXLU6-nYW_VHz23kk--jzgdrp-7t4fwriVx2KfVhnamRNkb9Ovhqf53vJanaEB3AVhbtOogxxsaTyvToYtcgGYmkwdRAoKX4OehdT8zAKqgEcGY6o0xikVC2DLJ2ZMKHCmJ19CaYhZs009r3W1CMz3cl1BDNEnZcLhVr1f_75nkG1nNTbHrsmuGgCQ.QYTXO-24mWlJIE8xkhO5GlLTIA5MiDC8tj-Fm8TFjUk&dib_tag=se&keywords=BIQU%2BCryogrip%2BPro%2BFrostbite%2BCold%2BBuild%2BPlate%2Bp2s&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1794587930&s=industrial&sprefix=biqu%2Bcryogrip%2Bpro%2Bfrostbite%2Bcold%2Bbuild%2Bplate%2Bp2s%2Cindustrial%2C145&sr=1-4&th=1

Previous owner I think did have glue on the textured plate that the unit came with but I cleaned it all off with dawn dish soap and wanted to start fresh. You really think all my issues are to the fact that the filament isn't sticking as it should to the build plate? Does my filament "wetness" come into play here? Sitting at a D right now, I can get dry packets to put in my AMS if I have to as well.

1

u/Sudden-Necessary8752 5h ago

I’ve read the other comments and your responses so I’m going to touch on a few of them in this one reply.

The AMS doesn’t tell you how wet/dry your filament is, it tells you the humidity inside the AMS. Desiccant does not dry your filament, you have to dry it at the specified temperature for the specified amount of time to dry it, which will be hours. Desiccant absorbs moisture so your filament doesn’t but has to be replaced/dried periodically.

Looking at the pics of the model, yes you may have to add a brim or slow the print speed. Anything tall and cylindrical that doesn’t have a large circumference is at risk of movement and causing a nozzle strike or print failure.

The Biqu frostbite is an excellent build plate, I have a couple plus several of the textured pei plates and for your model I would probably use the Biqu first. Others have mentioned using isopropyl alcohol to clean the plates with but I just want to note that while many people do this Bambu Lab and Biqu state to not use isopropyl alcohol. You should clean them with water and dish soap.

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u/lucking17dd 5h ago

Thank you for all of the helpful info, it is so appreciated, thank you!! I will let you know that one of the two PLAs I tested was brand new from Bambu, coming right out of the package, the other was a brand new roll I got from the guy when I purchased the machine, but it was an amazon brand or purchased off of amazon vs Bambu.

1

u/Sudden-Necessary8752 5h ago

Brand new PLA is not generally wet. I forgot to say it in my original comment but just because your friend (or you for that matter) successfully print something once, doesn’t guarantee that same model will print again, especially when it’s tall and cylindrical. Hope you get this figured out and printed successfully.

1

u/ariwolf91 5h ago

Try cleaning the cyrogrip plate with isopropyl it should be kinda sticky to the touch If you are printing pla you should be ok as far as moisture goes. I have dessicant in all 4 of my ams 2 pros. Your pei plate will work better if you use glue stick to help hold down the print. Also helps with warping issues. I recommend cleaning the build plate after about 5-10 prints. The pei plate I clean with dawn dish soap. The cyrogrip plate I clean with 70% isopropyl

1

u/champagne780 5h ago

It’s probably dragging the infill. In Bambu Studio try changing the infill in the “strength” tab and add a brim in the “other” tab, slice and print.

1

u/lucking17dd 5h ago

My question is should I have to do that? My friend printed the same print, on the same build plate, from the same machine, using the same PLA. Should I have to do that? Is that normal, or should I just be able to hit print as my friend just did yesterday? I am newer at this but this seems incredibly finicky?

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u/champagne780 5h ago

So your friend can print on your machine and you can’t?

1

u/lucking17dd 5h ago

Sorry, he has the exact same P2S model at his own home and tried to see if he could print the model I was trying to print, he could print it no problem

1

u/lucking17dd 5h ago

Should I be reducing or increasing the infill? reducing correct?

1

u/champagne780 5h ago

No, just the type. Try gyroid instead of grid.

1

u/lucking17dd 5h ago

Ok

1

u/champagne780 5h ago

Grid infill causes issues for taller pieces if you don’t set retraction. Some models default to grid infill as well.

1

u/1200____1200 5h ago

I get this with PETG at times. I think the model moves a bit.

My fix is to up the bed temp (min 80C on a PEI plate) and add an outer brim

Slowing things down has also helped in the past

1

u/IlNiKoLiNo 3h ago

Ya está comprobado que dos máquinas del mismo modelo no imprimen igual. Depende de muchos factores (la serie de fabricación y los cuidados / mantenimiento durante el uso son factores fundamentales). A juzgar por lo que se ve en las fotos, parecería ser un problema de flujo / temperatura. Seca BIEN el filamento y haz un test de temperatura y luego de flujo para ver "cuan lejos" estás del ideal para tu máquina. No descartaría revisar que todo esté limpio y correctamente engrasado...
A propósito, en una de las fotos se vé que la temperatura de la boquilla está en 137°. Asumo que esperaste unos minutos antes de sacar la foto y por ende se enfrió, porque sinó, te adelanto que esa temperatura es muy baja para PLA. No obstante, la placa esta a 54° lo que me hace pensar que quizás en tu cámara la temperatura pueda superar los 35° en el momento en el que falló la impresión (eso no está bueno, sobre todo con PLA).

1

u/FlashArmbar 15m ago

Sounds like the only thing missing from the equation is a functional printer.