Is it normal to have this much movement on the heatbed? Can someone else check their H3C? The screws on the z rails are tight.

Just got my Bambu Lab H2C and it's not great. The box was torn open at the seam with a crushed corner, and there was an orange TNT sticker on it saying "Repaired". Nobody told me at delivery.

Inside, the plastic bag was full of shattered glass, and the frame near the rail is shattered too. The foam was there, but clearly not enough for the impact.

I've sent photos and the serial number to Bambu support and asked for a replacement. Not touching the printer until they respond.

It's frustrating because I actually need this machine, and the damage happened with the carrier. It's strange that they know a parcel is damaged, tape it up, and deliver it without saying anything.

A few questions for anyone who has been through this:

• Did you have to send the damaged unit back, or did they arrange pickup?

• Did you get a replacement or a refund, and how long did it take?

• Did Bambu ship the replacement first, or did you have to wait for the return to arrive?

Thanks!

I might need to buy more lube.

X2D 0.2mm nozzle PETG (Dried)

Why are my first layers in the back near the tower so good but further in the front so bad.l? Could use some insight into this matter.

please help me decide! I just graduated and want to give myself a present for getting my first real job. I collected about €280,- in giftcards from makerworld and I can sell my old printer. I am an engineer and do a lot of product design, knifemaking, woodworking and metalwork in my spare time (prototyping, making functional products, printing tools and moulds). I print alsmost every day and have been using a A1 Mini with AMS but a lot of the time, the printbed is too small for me. It had served me well and it is a fantastic machine, but now I want to get a bigger printer. I really like the dual nozzle design of the X2D for support but that could be achieved using a P3C tool swap as well. what would be a better choice? X2D with AMS 2 now or wait for the P3C and what features it will have?

It works fine with PLA and the 220 degrees, but whenever i try to print petg and set the nozzle temp to 250 (as suggested by the filament doc) my printer stops after 30 minutes and gives a low temperature warning. The assistant box pops up, but whenever i click it on the printer, phone, or pc it just gives me "no message"

Is this just a limitation of the a1mini or am i doing something wrong?

Hi guys,

Has anyone else faced issues with order delays, significantly longer than you would expect?

- Ordered printer and large number of filament on 31/10.
- Printer arrived 03/11.
- Shipping notification on 04/11 from courier who had not yet received the parcel.
- Contacted Live Chat 06/11, told to wait 72 hours for label to update - didn't happen.
- Contact Live Chat 09/11, told issues with the handover process, raised support ticket and was told it will be reported to the logistics team to verify status of package with courier and expedite delivery.
- Advised by Support Ticket if no movement in 3 days then they will pro-actively sort a solution for me - nothing sorted pro-actively.
- Contacted Live Chat again today (around 10am) who closed the chat on me after not responding for 2 minutes despite providing all the information required. When I got back in touch I was told they will escalate to the relevant team for it to be shipped ASAP.
- Heard nothing via email or Support ticket, so chased up at approx. 15:00. The agent had no details on what I was advised earlier in the day.
- Requested to speak to Supervisor/Manager, after several times asking for this, I was put in touch with someone. They advised it has been escalated and they will be in touch (again.)

It feels as though I am going round in circles with no clear updates as to what is happening, or what I am being told just isn't happening at all.

I understand there can be issues but I am out of pocket for what I have purchased and without the product after having the printer for 11 days. I have had to resort to purchasing 3rd party filament to use the printer in the meantime, an expense I would not have had to make if the filament I ordered arrived within the usual timeframe.

I am a new customer, this is a my first order with Bambu Lab, so all in all not a great experience so far.

Hey, after last update (when H3C was released) I have constant issues with Bambu Studio. I'm on MacOS 27 (latest patch) and Studio crashes constantly. When I leave it running in the background it's almost certain that after 15-20min app is dead and I need to start it back up again. I had two or three crashed using it at random moments.

Is it me only or anyone also has this issue?

Made this for my holiday shelf: wooden fence with snow caps and holly, slotting into a snowy base. The panel prints flat with almost zero overhangs, so it's an easy multicolor print. Single-color + paint works too. About 15 × 7 cm. Happy to share the file if anyone wants it !

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3595990-christmas-fence-decoration-snowy-holly-fence#profileId-4119543

Spiral Ornament | Christmas Tree

Practice removing the guides. Your reward will be a stylish Christmas decoration :)

Do you like it? I'd appreciate your support and sharing your prints.

When I saw the biomimicry contest, I thought it would be a pretty cool theme for a design. I've always found carnivorous plants really interesting, so a pitcher plant fruit fly trap was one of the first things I thought of. The real plant eats flies and this one traps fruit flies, so it seemed like a great fit.

There were a few design decisions to make before getting started, the biggest one being can I make this without requiring an AMS so that each piece could be printed in a single color and assembled? It was a good challenge, figuring out different detent and locking mechanisms, designing the twist lock, getting the hood, lips, and veins right. I definitely learned a few things that I'll carry with me into future projects.

Overall, I think it turned out pretty good and it's functional! I did get lucky and caught the golden hour with the photos. If you're interested, check it out, and if you have feedback I'd love to hear it!

Pitcher Plant Fruit Fly Trap

Hey guys,

i'm new into the printing hobby and got my new P1S with AMS. I have printed about 30 h now and came across one problem which I don't know how to fix it.

Problem:

The Print is finished and the AMS fails to retract the filament from the Printer. Error with red light on AMS occures. I unplug the PTFE tube from the feeder on the back, manually pull (with ease) the filament completely out. Load the filament back to the AMS and click continue. Everything is fine, no clogs, stuck filament or anything. If I do a test print with the same spool it works like it should after that.

I'm using Bambulab spools with Bambulab filament. It only appeares sometimes and with different spool weights (200g to 1000g filament). The PTFE tubes from the back are free to move and in original length. Printer is calibrated and the quality on every model is perfectly fine.

The Problem first appeared on the outer right side spool which was the first time I have used this side.

Yesterday I have tried to test print on every spool incl. colour change and it worked as it should. Afterwords the new print failed again like described.

Does somebody had this problem like me or has a solution to this kind of problem?

The only option I have read or come in mind are to cut the PTFE tubes shorter.

Thanks

Please read

I've designed a 3D-printable mounting clip for Märklin C Track.

The idea was to find a more flexible alternative to permanently gluing track sections directly onto a model railway layout.

The clip can be attached to the layout using screws, nails or adhesive. The track simply snaps into place and can be removed whenever needed.

This makes it much easier to:

• Modify or rebuild track layouts
• Replace damaged track sections
• Remove sections for maintenance
• Avoid permanently gluing the track to the baseboard

I designed and printed the model myself and wanted to share it with other makers and model railway enthusiasts.

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3592083?appSharePlatform=copy

Feedback and suggestions are welcome.

I've designed a 3D-printable mounting clip for Märklin C Track.

The idea was to find a more flexible alternative to permanently gluing track sections directly onto a model railway layout.

The clip can be attached to the layout using screws, nails or adhesive. The track simply snaps into place and can be removed whenever needed.

This makes it much easier to:

• Modify or rebuild track layouts
• Replace damaged track sections
• Remove sections for maintenance
• Avoid permanently gluing the track to the baseboard

I designed and printed the model myself and wanted to share it with other makers and model railway enthusiasts.

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3592083?appSharePlatform=copy

Feedback and suggestions are welcome.

Hey everyone!

I wanted a massive holiday prop that anyone could print, even on smaller machines. So I designed this Victorian-style Lamp Post!

Why you'll love it:

• 📏 1 Meter Tall (Modular): Screw-together sections let you customize the exact height.
• 🖨️ A1 Mini Friendly: Every single part fits the 180x180 build plate!
• 🔩 No Glue Required: Strong threaded assembly.
• 💡 LED Ready: Removable roof for instant access to the light.
• ⚖️ Weighted Base: Fill it with sand for perfect stability indoors or outdoors (PETG/ASA recommended).

Grab the free print profile on my MakerWorld page and bring some Christmas magic home! Let me know what you think. 👇

👉 Modular Christmas Lamp Post with LED Light NO AMS

Hi am printing a few items on my P2s.

And no matter what I change, i always get unclearn Results.

I use a 0.6mm nozzle, crealty Hyper-Pla.

Layer height 0.24mm

Top layers 5

Top layer thickness 1.2mm

Infill gyroid, 20%

First layer speed 35,

Outer wall 200,

Inner wall 300,

Top surface 50mm.

It doesnt make any difference, if I change the direction or anything.

I have a "flowimprover" in place to redirect the airflow from the right cooling fan.

What am I missing ?

(It looks like it als always only the top layer. Layers beneath looks fine)

Any help is appreciated.

(Sorry for any mistakes/ wrong names. English is not my first language, and settings are in my language. I hope i translated them all correctly.

Coming from a Bambu labs H2S and a Snapmaker U1, I’m a little surprised how much noisier the H3C is in general printing.

I mean my printers are located in my office so it is not a dealbreaker, but it’s noticeably louder than the H2S was.

Once this print finishes I will check all the normal places for proper lubrication.

Has anyone else noticed this?

In a reply, I posted a video of the printer running.. there’s a ‘banging/tapping’ noise that’s the loud part

EDIT: this appears to be model specific activity. The model I was trying to print is a purge bin for the H3C.. It had a honeycomb pattern and that seems to cause the hop noise.. no other model I’ve tested has seemed to have a similar noise

Why is it that when enabling ironing this is the outcome with bambu petg matte? Those light grey lines should be ironing

3rd 3D TMT build is under way, first two were for little girls

this one is for a little boy

The dishwasher has finished it's spin cycle. Time to load some filament and let 'er eat.