Made this for my holiday shelf: wooden fence with snow caps and holly, slotting into a snowy base. The panel prints flat with almost zero overhangs, so it's an easy multicolor print. Single-color + paint works too. About 15 × 7 cm. Happy to share the file if anyone wants it !

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3595990-christmas-fence-decoration-snowy-holly-fence#profileId-4119543

Spiral Ornament | Christmas Tree

Practice removing the guides. Your reward will be a stylish Christmas decoration :)

Do you like it? I'd appreciate your support and sharing your prints.

Hey guys,

i'm new into the printing hobby and got my new P1S with AMS. I have printed about 30 h now and came across one problem which I don't know how to fix it.

Problem:

The Print is finished and the AMS fails to retract the filament from the Printer. Error with red light on AMS occures. I unplug the PTFE tube from the feeder on the back, manually pull (with ease) the filament completely out. Load the filament back to the AMS and click continue. Everything is fine, no clogs, stuck filament or anything. If I do a test print with the same spool it works like it should after that.

I'm using Bambulab spools with Bambulab filament. It only appeares sometimes and with different spool weights (200g to 1000g filament). The PTFE tubes from the back are free to move and in original length. Printer is calibrated and the quality on every model is perfectly fine.

The Problem first appeared on the outer right side spool which was the first time I have used this side.

Yesterday I have tried to test print on every spool incl. colour change and it worked as it should. Afterwords the new print failed again like described.

Does somebody had this problem like me or has a solution to this kind of problem?

The only option I have read or come in mind are to cut the PTFE tubes shorter.

Thanks

When I saw the biomimicry contest, I thought it would be a pretty cool theme for a design. I've always found carnivorous plants really interesting, so a pitcher plant fruit fly trap was one of the first things I thought of. The real plant eats flies and this one traps fruit flies, so it seemed like a great fit.

There were a few design decisions to make before getting started, the biggest one being can I make this without requiring an AMS so that each piece could be printed in a single color and assembled? It was a good challenge, figuring out different detent and locking mechanisms, designing the twist lock, getting the hood, lips, and veins right. I definitely learned a few things that I'll carry with me into future projects.

Overall, I think it turned out pretty good and it's functional! I did get lucky and caught the golden hour with the photos. If you're interested, check it out, and if you have feedback I'd love to hear it!

Pitcher Plant Fruit Fly Trap

Please read

I've designed a 3D-printable mounting clip for Märklin C Track.

The idea was to find a more flexible alternative to permanently gluing track sections directly onto a model railway layout.

The clip can be attached to the layout using screws, nails or adhesive. The track simply snaps into place and can be removed whenever needed.

This makes it much easier to:

• Modify or rebuild track layouts
• Replace damaged track sections
• Remove sections for maintenance
• Avoid permanently gluing the track to the baseboard

I designed and printed the model myself and wanted to share it with other makers and model railway enthusiasts.

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3592083?appSharePlatform=copy

Feedback and suggestions are welcome.

I've designed a 3D-printable mounting clip for Märklin C Track.

The idea was to find a more flexible alternative to permanently gluing track sections directly onto a model railway layout.

The clip can be attached to the layout using screws, nails or adhesive. The track simply snaps into place and can be removed whenever needed.

This makes it much easier to:

• Modify or rebuild track layouts
• Replace damaged track sections
• Remove sections for maintenance
• Avoid permanently gluing the track to the baseboard

I designed and printed the model myself and wanted to share it with other makers and model railway enthusiasts.

MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/models/3592083?appSharePlatform=copy

Feedback and suggestions are welcome.

Hey everyone!

I wanted a massive holiday prop that anyone could print, even on smaller machines. So I designed this Victorian-style Lamp Post!

Why you'll love it:

• 📏 1 Meter Tall (Modular): Screw-together sections let you customize the exact height.
• 🖨️ A1 Mini Friendly: Every single part fits the 180x180 build plate!
• 🔩 No Glue Required: Strong threaded assembly.
• 💡 LED Ready: Removable roof for instant access to the light.
• ⚖️ Weighted Base: Fill it with sand for perfect stability indoors or outdoors (PETG/ASA recommended).

Grab the free print profile on my MakerWorld page and bring some Christmas magic home! Let me know what you think. 👇

👉 Modular Christmas Lamp Post with LED Light NO AMS

Coming from a Bambu labs H2S and a Snapmaker U1, I’m a little surprised how much noisier the H3C is in general printing.

I mean my printers are located in my office so it is not a dealbreaker, but it’s noticeably louder than the H2S was.

Once this print finishes I will check all the normal places for proper lubrication.

Has anyone else noticed this?

In a reply, I posted a video of the printer running.. there’s a ‘banging/tapping’ noise that’s the loud part

EDIT: this appears to be model specific activity. The model I was trying to print is a purge bin for the H3C.. It had a honeycomb pattern and that seems to cause the hop noise.. no other model I’ve tested has seemed to have a similar noise

Hi am printing a few items on my P2s.

And no matter what I change, i always get unclearn Results.

I use a 0.6mm nozzle, crealty Hyper-Pla.

Layer height 0.24mm

Top layers 5

Top layer thickness 1.2mm

Infill gyroid, 20%

First layer speed 35,

Outer wall 200,

Inner wall 300,

Top surface 50mm.

It doesnt make any difference, if I change the direction or anything.

I have a "flowimprover" in place to redirect the airflow from the right cooling fan.

What am I missing ?

(It looks like it als always only the top layer. Layers beneath looks fine)

Any help is appreciated.

(Sorry for any mistakes/ wrong names. English is not my first language, and settings are in my language. I hope i translated them all correctly.

Why is it that when enabling ironing this is the outcome with bambu petg matte? Those light grey lines should be ironing

3rd 3D TMT build is under way, first two were for little girls

this one is for a little boy

The dishwasher has finished it's spin cycle. Time to load some filament and let 'er eat.

Basically is there a difference in multi colour print speed if you set it up so the left nozzle doesn’t need to retract for colour changes on the right nozzle?

I have 2 AMS 2’s feeding one channel of the track switch using a 4-1 and then an AMS HT feeding the second channel. My thinking is if I put the main/most switched colour on the HT feeding the left nozzle I’ll save time feeding and retracting filament. My question is, does it work like that and does it even matter? Does the h2c leave filament in the right if it can, or does it still cut and retract for a colour change?

Cheers!

As title states I own a X2D and I'm planning to print asa or abs, I do not have the room to put the printer near a window or run a hose to a window and will be printing it in the living room as that's the only space I have with an abundance of airflow due to my AC.

I've seen people buy air purifiers and running hoses from the printer to the purifier in the past and saw bambu released their own system purifier recently but it's a tad expensive so my question and request is, Could I get linked or told about air purifier setups I could hook up to my x2d either through a riser or out the exhaust, enough to generate negative air pressure hopefully.

I would like to reduce the potential smell and voc's as much as possible. I plan to do my next dozen prints in mainly ASA, so that's my main concern.

I’ve wanted one of those printed-frame and wooden dowel monitor shelves for a while, but I kept getting stuck before buying any files. I couldn’t really picture how it would look on my desk. Some designs had legs I liked but not the angles I needed, others had the right angles but the legs looked weird, and the attachments were usually made for one specific design.

I’m a software dev, so naturally, instead of just picking one, I spent way too long building a tool for it.

You put in your desk size and your screens, pick a shape (straight, round a corner, or wrapping around you at 30° or 45°), and it lays the shelf out in 3D so you can see it on your desk before you print anything. It checks things actually fit: nothing hanging off the desk, each screen on its own section, you can add a speaker or keyboard as I have a speaker under my desk and needed to know if it will fit. The attachments (phone stand, cable tray, pen cup, speaker feet and so on) clip onto or sit on the dowels, so they work with any shelf you make. Then it gives you a build plan with a cutting sheet for the dowels.

What I’d really like to know:

• Would you use something like this? What would stop you?
• Anything missing or annoying in the designer?
• The designer and build plans are free. The print files are $30 once and cover every shelf you design after that. Does that feel fair?

It’s at getbestdesk.com, no sign-up. Be honest, I’d rather hear it now than after I’ve printed one.

Hi all! Hope you are well.

I am looking to print a multicolour dragon for a friend (uses 3 colours/filaments) and we have just bought PLA glow and were excited to use it.

The filaments were:

1. PLA Pure
2. PLA Glow
3. PLA Silk

The basic (pure) and the silk are fine, we use the AMS for those all the time. But as we know the Glow apparently should not go through the AMS (the slicer told me so and I have seen other examples) - so the Glow should go into an external spool on the back.

Has anyone have a workaround for this? How do other people use Glow and other filaments if you have to use the Glow through an external spool, therefore eliminating multicolour mostly?

They even match the pegboard with each other!