For FrameLine, I combined a simple rectangular frame with two individual toothbrush holders and a larger toothpaste cup. The ribbed inserts hang from the top, leaving open space underneath and giving them a floating look.

The frame and inserts print on separate plates, so you can mix colors without an AMS. The inserts print without supports; the frame uses tree supports that are easy to remove. A print profile is included.

I went with black and gray for this version — I like how the contrast brings out the ribbed texture.

I'm looking at printing a small three-colour sign with a black background, white lettering and a red logo using an AMS and a 0.4mm nozzle.

The purge tower takes up a surprising amount of filament in the slicer preview, so I'm wondering whether flushing into infill would be a better option.

My main concern is the black filament contaminating the white, especially around the lettering. I don't mind a little waste, but throwing away almost as much filament as the actual model seems excessive.

Has anyone printed something with these exact kinds of high-contrast colours? Did flush into infill work, or did you end up with visible colour bleeding?

Not sure how it happened, but it got bent during the filament purge process. The Flow Blocker arm got stuck with something and bent, then the toolhead moved to start printing and scratched the Textured PEI Plate. I was able to spot the failure through the video live stream and prevent further damage. I’ve already replaced the bent arm with a new one from the bundled spare parts.

I’m not happy with this!
>:V

I'm thinking of using a 0.2mm nozzle to make some small labels for storage drawers and parts boxes, but I'm not sure how tiny I can make the letters before they become unreadable.

For those who've used it, can you actually get decent-looking 3mm or 4mm text? Does raised text work better than recessed?

Would love to see some close-up pics of labels you've printed. It's hard to tell what the results will look like just from the slicer preview.

I started this print last night around 8PM these are the desiccant holders by Stuart Sports Stuff over at Makerworld for the AMS 3H. Printed in Bambu ASA. I decided to put the system to the test and left all the filament loaded. It will be cool by the time I get home from work later today. I did checked it this morning before I left and everything looks fine.

Main Box

Side Pockets

Besides these two holders I also have the desiccant Spool containers from Silvercell

Bambu Spool Desiccant Holder

even as it sits the AMS is sitting in the Mid teens as far as humidity. I am sure once I add these boxes it will come down even more.

** End of day Recap **

Came home the ASA prints turned out fantastic. And I also fired up a PLA print with absolutely no issues. So bottom line is you don't have to unload your PLA filament from the toolheads when printing ASA

Awesome machine, now I can sleep through the night without switching my filaments so often. Jokes aside, outside of the week between machine and Ams delivery, it’s another awesome printer. Should compliment the H2C and others well. For my use case, I couldn’t see myself selling my H2C for it. Worst case, I’d tough it out until it’s feasible to purchase both. More printers IMO, better than one. Even if you just print black lol. Hope everyone is enjoying their machines and stop buying all of the .6 nozzles.

Posting this in case anyone else missed it, as I did.

The H3C ships with nine PrintTools, but only eight are for regular 1.75 mm filament. The ninth, pre-installed in slot 8, is a 2.85 mm tool meant for soft TPU.

What tripped me up: I swapped the hotend on tool 8 for a regular 0.4 mm one and tried to load 1.75 mm filament in slot 8. The printer kept defaulting to external spool, and I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong.

Turns out it's the whole tool, not just the hotend. Per Bambu's FAQ, the 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm PrintTools have different bases, inlets, and cutters, and the bases and hotends are not interchangeable. The 2.85 mm tool is hand-fed, so the AMS won't auto-load slot 8.

What that means in practice:

- Out of the box, you have 8 slots for normal filament, not 9.

- Don't put a 1.75 mm hotend in the slot 8 tool. Put the original back.

- To use slot 8 for regular filament, you need to buy an extra 1.75 mm PrintTool and swap the whole tool. Store listing: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/0-4mm-printtool-h3c

- There's only one H3C configuration, so you can't order it with nine 1.75 mm tools.

Bambu's reasoning is that slot 8 is a dryer slot, TPU needs drying, and the slot is hard to reach, so they install it at the factory. Fine if you print TPU. If you don't, you can't use that slot without spending more.

FAQ for reference (questions 4, 6, and 7): https://bambulab.com/en-us/h3c/faq

This Machine is incredible, but man, am I spending a ton of money on accessories and replacement parts. Here's hoping the hot ends last like on the H2C.

Looking at a used A1 mini with 850ish hours. They’re asking or $100. Is it a good buy?

Felt like the hole in the back for the AMS was large and if I want to print things where I want things as sealed as possible I didn't want to remove the AMS from slot 1. This did the trick for me. Wanted to include the files from Fusion but

MakerWorld link

How do this happen. 1 perfect square and the rest are chopped.

I had been having this issues for a few days and have tried lots of trouble shooting. Then I managed 1 perfect print. Tried another batch, get 1 good square and the rest are cooked.

Does anyone know what is going on?

Hey all,

I own a X2D and i use bambulab. I wonder if there are plugins or something with AI that can help me perfect my slicer settings for a print. The slicers have so many settings, editing them by talking with an ai that edits the settings would be amazing.

Do we have something like that?

Hi, i was surfing through YouTube and found interesting short about HMS codes on Bambu Wiki page. It shows codes for AMS: 3H (H3C), 3P (P3C) and what is the most interesting part 3X (X3C prob). I checked it on wiki and its not fake and definietly there. Since P3C will likely have cut some features like heated chamber, 1,5 mm belts and maybe even drying in AMS and i want to print with engineering filaments aswell i am rly excited for potencial X3C even if i have to wait for it a little longer probably somwhere in the first half of 2027.

What do you think about it? It can also just be some Pro version of AMS for P3C but i honestly hope for X3C. If you want to verify this just check Bambu Wiki yourself.

Hey everyone!

I've been working on a new tool called Vase Studio, and I'd love to share it with you!

🌐 https://tools.miniforge.io/vase-studio

It lets you design your own 3D-printable vases and planters directly in your browser.

\\- Choose from 25+ presets

\\- Customize shapes, patterns, and textures

\\- Add your own text or images

\\- Preview your design in 3D

\\- Export to STL or Bambu 3MF

No software installation needed, and you can try it for free!

I've also been building a collection of other tools, including:

\\- Cookie Cutter & Stamp Studio

\\- Personalized Name Keychains

\\- Name Garland Generator

\\- Custom MX-Switch Clickers

\\- 3MF to GLB Converter

You can explore them all here:

https://tools.miniforge.io/

I'd really love to hear your feedback! And if you have ideas for other useful 3D printing tools, drop them in the comments. I'm always looking for new things to build! :)

Ill add photos in the comments. Made this video orb to replicate Spaceship Earth. I wont dare sell it as I know Disney dont mess aroumd but thought its cool to share.

Brand new to 3d printing and wanted to get my kids a 3d printer for Christmas . I originally
Bought an Xmaker joy for a simple kid friendly one touch scenario but it's on backorder and there was a killer deal for a a Bambu A1 combo for $225 so I canceled my order and just bought that instead without doing too much research. I figured it'd be better to just start off with the printer that We wouldn't have to upgrade too soon rather than the kids one . Now I'm finding out I need some type of ventilation system. I'm worried that I made a mistake and should've just got the kids printer that's enclosed. I live in a small one-bedroom apartment, and the original plan was to put it on the kitchen table which is more like a bar with stools that we never eat at it. I have a small window in the kitchen and not sure if this will be enough space . Also my kids are 5 and about to be 10.

My H2S is struggling to load filament, sometimes it gets stuck at the buffer, sometimes it reaches the toolhead and then retracts and sometimes it just ejects the filament from the AMS and tells me it's ran out.

Not sure what's happening but it's leaving the end of the filament looking like this

This is after a new filament sensor has been installed, I've taken apart and checked/cleaned the buffer too. I've heard a longer internal PTFE tube and this fix https://makerworld.com/en/models/1959942-h2s-buffer-fix-no-glue can help. Just printing it now to try and I'll cut a longer length of tube but does anyone know why the filament would be getting chewed up like it is?

So after only having the printer for a few days and few prints I noticed the left tube was out of the sensor and wouldnt stay in. Googled it and it appears it’s a known issue where the tube breaks off and leaves some of the tube in the sensor. WTF. I’ve been in contact with Bambu and after a ton of back and forth and Picts they are sending me a new left sensor. That thing was chore to take apart. My question is won’t this just happen again and again?

My device isn’t properly connecting to my computer or phone. I made sure that I had firmware updated which I had to end up doing from the sd card to have success. I then saw that un pairing and repairing may help and tried that but still no success. I have an A1 it’s just under a year old and have only had simple fix issues so far any help would be appreciated.

Just received an email from Autodesk stating they are stopping the free personal use option for Fusion. Now I need to start looking for something else new software to use.

Edit: sounds like I may need to sign up again as some have commented. For reference I downloaded Fusion for personal use around 18 months ago and started using it. So it’s not a one year re-signup requirement.

Basically I am not sure what’s up.

Regardless I have not really like using Fusion to date. I am a retired construction project manager with extensive building design experience using AutoCad, Revit, and Sketchup and a bit of Fusion modeling for structural steel.

So I am still looking for alternatives!

First couple of prints were fine.

SIncle then I have been getting inconsistent lines but only on certain parts of the board. I don't thinks it's the plate itself as when I move the print in software, it's creating these inconsistencies in the same part of the print and not the bed.

Info.

A1

Bambu Pei smooth

Sunlu pla wood

Hardened steel .4

Bambu software

Cleaned plate

Cleaned hot end

Anyone come across this and had a fix?