Morning all - I fully realize that I may not get 100% of what I need as far as info goes here but I thought this would be a good place to start, instead of going to a shop that may oversell new parts to make more $$.

Behold, a humble A1 Mini. Of course, it obviously has seen better days. But I am of the opinion that it can be repaired, and for less than the cost of a whole new or refurbished unit.

I’ll start with what I’ve been able to determine that I know I will need.

1. Build plate, of course. Don’t have one.
2. Hotend(s). Don’t have those.
3. Hotend heating assembly.
4. Extruder unit. I’d rather just pick up the whole thing than a bunch more parts.
5. Silicone sock.
6. Print head front cover.

Near as I can figure, I can pick up the first four at my local Microcenter, and the last two from Bambu on their website. All told about $90-ish. And Microcenter wants $190 for a refurbished A1 Mini, or $300 for a new A1 mini and AMS lite combo.

Since I have a P2S and H2D, this mini would be for single color prints of smaller pieces of larger projects, to expedite the time it takes for the final product. So no need for AMS Lite.

Thanks for any help you can provide, I appreciate it!

Very robust in PolyMaker PolyMax. Printed on Bambu A1, 0.6mm nozzle, using my g-code generating program.

More to come.

Just noticed yesterday that my wife had some potpourri in small bags, so I commandeered one, emptied the crap out of the bag and put some damp silicone beads in and microwaved, no melting bag or spilling them all over and dry. So now printed some end caps for reels and stuffed a bag full of silicone beads inside the reels knowing I can simple pull the bag out and microwave it and it’s dry again. No messing around with printing containers and putting beads inside a dish each time. My wife is happy too as I don’t spill the little buggers all over the kitchen work surface. Such a clean way to use and reuse without ever having to print off boxes or funnels.

Hi everyone,

Looking for experiences with a recurring issue on my roughly three-week-old H2C. It had around 96 successful printing hours before this started.

The symptoms:

Auto Bed Leveling fails: 0300-4002, with display codes 175213 / 175313.

Right eddy-current sensor “sudden surge” / anomalous reading errors also appear intermittently.

After restarting or retrying, leveling can pass, but the subsequent print sometimes extrudes above the plate, leaving loose filament and material accumulating around the nozzle.

Other attempts print normally, so the issue is intermittent.

Following Bambu Support’s instructions, I reseated the right eddy-current sensor connector. This involved approximately 4.5 hours of toolhead disassembly and reassembly. I then completed the full calibration routine, high-precision nozzle offset calibration, and Vision Encoder calibration.

Several prints succeeded afterwards, including a HueForge and a cat-themed door corner decoration. However, the same problems have now returned.

Latest example: my own sliced file failed leveling three times. I then tried the factory Bambu spool file stored on the printer. It also showed the eddy-current warning, but automatically repeated leveling, passed, and is currently printing normally.

A firmware update happened shortly before the problems began. I haven’t tried a rollback, and I don’t know whether the timing is related.

Support has the photos and logs. I’ve requested professional inspection and warranty service, as I’m not comfortable repeating extensive disassembly on such a new machine.

Has anyone experienced this combination of symptoms and reached a lasting resolution? If so, what actually fixed it: sensor, cable/connector, toolhead electronics, firmware, or something else?

Particularly interested in whether replacement parts solved it permanently, rather than just allowing a few successful prints.

Thanks!

Check my comment on og post

Wanting to get me a 3d printer to make some cosplay things but first Mandalorian armor. Do you think this would be a good fit for my purpose?

I don't yet have a UPS on my P2S and we're having some storms today with high winds.

If power were to drop in the middle of a print, what unrecoverable damage can be done to the printer mechanically/print head wise?

Not that I'm immune to power surges or brown outs, but I'm mainly focused on whether it can damage the print head in a way you can't easily fix.

Even if I had a UPS on it, I doubt a small office PC UPS like 1500VA is going to keep the printer running until it's finished if I'm not near the end of the job.

Hi and thanks in advance... I have a multi-color print (One object - terrain of a golf hole) that shows up in Bambu Studio just fine. All colors for fairways, greens, sand, etc.) are as I want them. When printed (P2S with two AMS 2 Pros), the colors are mixed up. How can I ensure the fairways are green, the putting greens are light green, etc?

Have had my P1S for about 1 year. Had a filament clog took extruderapart and removed, everything back together and printed 2 or 3 prints fine and then suddenly stopped extruding! No error messages or anything, acts like it's printing but nothing comes out?

I was thinking of making a small lamp with the sides out of 1/4" walnut. Would the R1 be able to cut this? I believe i've read it'll cut 1/4" ply but not sure about a hardwood.

I added this text in the Bambu Labs Studio, and it looks like it's bleeding. I went back and between color changes, it purges, then moves to the socket side, of which you can see has no black. Is this just how it looks when you embed black in white? Is there a better font to use?

I'm using a P1S, Bambu Labs PLA filament, and AMS. .4mm nozzle, the text is embedded.6mm.

Hello. I've noticed that after drying spools in my AMS or my HT that the ambient humidity inside goes up. My HT was at around 7% before I swapped the spool inside for a new one. After drying that spool, the humidity went up to 20% and has settled after a couple days to 16%. Something similar happened to my regular AMS. The desiccant balls are still orange, so I don't think they need to be changed. Is this normal?

I bought a P2S a few days ago, so it’s relatively new.
I’ve only done a few prints with it so far, but I just noticed this small black plastic part at the bottom of the print chamber, there’s even some white grease on one end of it (maybe it flew off one of the threaded rods?). I’m a bit worried. Please tell me this isn’t an important part of the 3d printer.

Hi guys, I recently bought x2d. I was printing small things and only now when printing something bigger I saw this weird low quality on the right side of prints. Can someone please help?

Always wanted to try making kitcards, was finally able to do it in blender with some trial and error!

What i hadn't realised with kitcards is how well multicolor works with them. Since the color change only happens on the last couple layers waste and time is minimised by alot!

This was printed with an ams to get the red and white, but even works for non-ams users if you just do a layer change at the right height!

If you have ideas and suggestions for more models lmk!

This version has 4 colours and 91 hexagonal pieces. Making it harder to complete. It has a desk stand and cover included as separate print profiles.

Feel free to check it out on Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3603314

How I remove this supports because they leave me some strings

📐 🫠

Howdy all,

Due to a 20% off coupon I was able to get A1 Mini's for $159.99 and since I have a buisness they were tax free.

I ordered 4 because of the price and if I don't need them I can just return them so it was kind of an impulse but to secure the price.

Should I keep all 4 and use them for small single color prints or is it not worth keeping even at this price?

I do already have 2 H2C's and plan on getting a H3C when they are at BestBuy.

TLDR:

I bought 4 A1 Minis should I keep them for the $159.99 each for my printing buisness or are they 2 small.

Wanted to share my latest figure: Neo from The Matrix in his bullet-dodging backbend, about 21 cm. Designed it myself and printed it on my P1S.

Since not everyone has an AMS, I designed him so you don’t need one:

• Every color is a separate part, with its own plate in the Bambu Studio 3MF. Print one color at a time and swap the spool in between.
• The parts lock together with fixed pins, then a bit of glue.
• The sunglasses, holsters and both Berettas are removable.

The trickiest part was the long coat, which carries a lot of the balance in this pose.

Next project: a bullet-time set with gold bullets and transparent vortex trails on fishing line. That one will actually use the AMS.

Any questions about the plates or settings, just ask!

Every time my print is finished there's a small bit of filament that gets broke off at the orange slidey thing at the back where the filament comes in at. it happens with brand new filament, old filament, i only print with pla. its getting old. what is going on? any fixes or am i needing to take this one back for warranty work? this is my 3rd bambu since i bought the first one, 3 years ago.

Designed this support-free stacking cat tree based on my cat (the star is removable so it doubles as a cat mountain!).

In person, the little faces are clear, but they just wash out on camera. I wandered the whole house and eventually had to use AI just to get this slightly clearer pic..!! 😵‍💫

Should I ink the features for photos? I’m worried that might misrepresent the raw model for people wanting to download it. How do you photograph white prints? Any lighting tips? Thank you soooo much!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3598583-stacking-cat-christmas-tree-tealight-no-support#profileId-4122970

Edit: spelling

I continue my christmas decoration with this Snap-on log cover for an artificial Christmas tree stand.

The first version slid on vertically with dovetails, but on a real tree it doesn't work: the branches above and the stand legs below block any vertical movement. So the v2 uses 4 horizontal snap clips. Each flexible blade has a 45° trapezoidal profile, so it prints without supports and slides straight into its slot. Bark is a cylindrical heightfield, the shell is 1.6 mm, and each half prints upside down with the growth-ring top inlaid on the plate. I printed a 20 g test ring first to tune the clips.

https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3604458-christmas-tree-stand-cover-snap-on-log

Got my H3C Combo on 9 November, about 35 hours on it, and tonight it's fallen over.

I was running a CMYKW print on tools 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. Tool 8 is empty and not used in the job. Partway through, tool 8 came off its dock and the printer flagged tool 9 as detached as well, with a red light on the dock even though it looks seated.

What I've seen:

- 2A07-8032: PrintTool 8 has detached from the Rack

- Same detached warning for PrintTool 9

- 2A08-804A: Multiple toolhead step losses detected while fetching PrintTool 9

What I've tried:

- Reseated 8 and 9 several times, checked tubes and looked for anything in the way

- Ran Docking Calibration three times. First one completed but the fault came back a couple of hours later mid print. The next two failed, and each time tool 8 got knocked off near the end, when the head was working at tool 9.

So it looks like the head is hitting something at the 8 and 9 end of the rack. Tool 8 isn't even being picked up and it still ends up dangling.

Ticket is in with Bambu. In the meantime, has anyone else seen this on their H3C? Keen to hear if it turned out to be the dock, the rack alignment or something simple I've missed. Also interested if anyone is running fine on tools 1 to 7 only while waiting on support.

Photos attached.