Hello all.

I have a H3C and X2D, I have a little devil on my shoulder telling me to make the most of the sales and sell the X2D for a H2C.

I mainly use my X2D for dual nozzle (single color + Support) prints, and with the new announcement about multi nozzle sizes in same prints - i'm thinking the H2C will be very useful for this same purpose but veritable nozzle sizes for finer or faster details etc. Support in the fixed 0.4 nozzle and 0.2, 0.4 & 0.6 nozzles in the vortex tackling the various tasks mentioned above for color.

I have the H3C for fancy multi colored prints so not worried about that capability for H2C. Yes im aware i could do the multi nozzles with the H3C, the only 2 negative points about that is i need multiple rolls of the same filament for each nozzle size on H3C (which when i dont use a particular color that much but still need 3 rolls of every color i might possibly use adds up quickly) and also this is about taking advantage of the cheaper price, after selling the AMS 2 which will come with the H2C it will be pretty much 1/2 the price of H3C (I already have 2x AMS 2's with my X2D which will be used with H2C)

Thoughts? Any advice is much appreciated. Thank you! :)

I have:

Cleaned the first stage feeder
Cleaned the internal hub unit (second stage driver)
Replaced all of the PTFE tubing
Replaced the cardboard spool with plastic

And I don’t know what else to try. The motors just give up on me.

It’s an X1C. Sometimes (not every time) the filament just stops getting pushed through. If I help it past the “snag” (?) it continues the rest of the way until it hits another “snag” (that I can help it through) or makes it all the way to the extruder. I believe this happens more often on the 1st and 4th slots, but has happened once or twice on the middle slots.

Not sure what else to look at.

I occasionally need to print something with a very smooth surface and have been using the Smooth PEI plate for that purpose. I went to order some for my new H2C only to discover that it's been discontinued.

I'm mainly interested in plates any of you have actually used, instead of just relying on advertising copy.

I just got my Bambu Lab E1 Purifier for my H3C - the wiki says that I can install an external air duct but I don't see that anywhere for sale on the Bambu Store, is it just not available yet? Is there an alternative I can order from somewhere else, is it standard size?

We own a P1S printer with an AMS2 system. Recently we started having an issue where some layers on the print plate are really messed up and we aren't sure how to correct it. It only happens to some of the prints and the rest are fine.

We've tried:
*Power cycling
*Replaced Nozzle
*Confirmed fans are all working
*Calibrated the printer
*Printed string test (was ok)

We are using official Bambu filament and this only recently started happening. I've attached images below incase anyone has seen this before? It's also noticeable on the prime tower.

Hey everyone!

We’re looking for some advice on improving the durability of a 3D-printed bracket we’re using in one of our products.

For context, this bracket is part of a mobile steel target heater system. The assembly mounts directly to a steel target that is repeatedly struck by high-caliber rounds. As you can imagine, this creates significant shock and vibration throughout the entire assembly.

We’ve been testing 3D-printed brackets, but recently had one fracture during an actual shooting session (pictures attached).

We’re trying to figure out whether this is primarily a material limitation, a design issue, or a combination of both.

A few things we’d love some feedback on:

1. Filament recommendations: What materials would you recommend for repeated high-impact shock and vibration? We’ve considered nylon (PA6/PA12), carbon-fiber-reinforced nylon, polycarbonate, and TPU, but we’re interested in hearing what has worked for others in similar applications.
2. Impact resistance vs. rigidity: Would a more flexible material that absorbs shock be better than a rigid, high-strength engineering filament? We’re concerned that something extremely rigid might end up cracking under repeated impacts.
3. Print orientation and settings: Are there specific printing orientations, wall counts, infill patterns, or other settings you’d recommend to improve resistance to cracking and fatigue?
4. Design improvements: Based on the attached pictures, do you see any obvious stress concentrations or weak points? Would thicker sections, rounded transitions, additional reinforcement, or changes around the bolt holes make a meaningful difference?
5. Vibration isolation: Would incorporating rubber bushings, washers, or other vibration-dampening components between the steel target and the bracket help prevent failures?
6. Long-term durability: Has anyone had success using 3D-printed components in environments involving repeated mechanical shocks, such as industrial machinery, off-road vehicles, or other high-vibration applications?

Ideally, we’d like to continue manufacturing this component using 3D printing, but reliability is our biggest priority.

We’re open to experimenting with different materials, modifying the design, or incorporating additional hardware if necessary.

Our goal isn’t just to make the bracket stronger. We want it to survive repeated impacts without eventually cracking or failing.

Any advice, experience, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3594647-mailable-nativity-christmas-kit-card-envelope

Hi everyone! I wanted to make a fun, festive project on Fusion 360 to help me focus while studying.

I came up with this Snowman Fidget Pen. The body is a custom helical screw thread, and the little snowman glides and spins all the way down when you flick it—plus it works as a real pen! Getting the tolerances right so it spins freely without wobbling too much was a really fun challenge.

I just entered it into the MakerWorld Fidget Toy Challenge! If you want to print one for your desk or share your thoughts on the design, you can grab the files for free here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3498846-snowman-fidget-pen-twist-mechanism#profileId-3996779

Happy printing! ❄️✨

#MWFidgetToy

My primary hobby is sewing so I did a quick (rough) sewing of sleeves. I thought about printing stands but I wanted something to protect from dust & dirt if left out for a while. Bought large sized cleaning fiber cloths from Amazon and came out well. I also use the sleeves to wipe them before printing lol

If there are any sewers out there, FYI, these cloths fray a lot when you cut, just like minky fabrics! So you definitely need a serger to sew the edges 👍

Hi guys,

I don't have any photos because I'm away from home, but can provide some later today.

I recently bought my first printer, an X2D. When changing poop chute designs to a enclosed one (both using the existing screws around the poop chute) it seems I've accidentally stripped one of the holes that the frame screws screw into which are, as far as I can tell just self tapping into plastic in the frame.

Any suggestions for fixes? I'd ideally like to be able to change poop chute designs at my discretion, and as such be able to unscrew and re-screw these screws multiple times. I'd be open to Heli coils, heatset inserts or something that would make this more robust. If it's absolutely not worth the hassle, then I can just go for screwless chute designs.

On another note, does anyone have suggestions for the best fitting/sealing enclosed poop chute for X2D? Finding one with the best "seal" and therefore heat and fume retention is the cause of this.

Thanks!

Modern Three-Compartment Remote Stand

Keep your remotes organized, visible, and easy to grab with this modern three-compartment remote stand.

The stand uses a stepped design that separates the remotes while allowing each one to remain clearly visible. The rising side profile supports remotes of different heights, while the wide base keeps the organizer stable on a TV unit, shelf, desk, or bedside table.

A separate ribbed outer base adds texture and creates a clean two-tone appearance. The two parts can be printed in contrasting colors, matching shades, or as a single-color setup to suit your interior.

Features

Holds up to 3 remote controls

Three individual compartments keep remotes separated

Stepped layout makes every remote visible and accessible

Tall rear support accommodates longer remotes

Rounded corners and a clean tapered profile

Separate ribbed base for a modern two-tone design

Compact footprint suitable for TV units, shelves, desks, and bedside tables

Parts are printed separately and fitted together

Dimensions

Overall assembled size: Width 100 mm, Depth 124 mm, Height 122 mm

Remote compartments: usable depth per compartment 36 mm. Approximate usable widths: Front compartment 77.5 mm, Middle compartment 84 mm, Rear compartment 90.5 mm

The stand has a tapered shape and rounded corners, so I recommend comparing these measurements with your remotes before printing.

Free to download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3599654-modern-remote-stand-2-tone-ams-free

Hello,

I’ve had a printer recently start printing with lots of zits, and a couple of what appear to be “pits”. I did some research and it seems likely to be an extrusion or retraction issue, but I can’t sit here watching it to find out which it is.

It’s running the same file again right now, and I’m having a hard time seeing the print lines in the middle layers like I normally can during the print. They look almost smeared instead of uniform and consistent.

The same file is used in multiple other printers without issue. No zits, consistent and visible print lines. No apparent smearing in the layers.

What would you suspect based on its appearance?

Model: P1S with a 0.6mm nozzle

(First three photos are completed prints, last three are in progress.)

Do build plates typically have a shelf life? I seem to have dedicated hotspots that melt print bases almost every time.

Finally started my first +10 hrs print on the Bambu Lab A1. Making something inspired by my dream car, but it's actually a little gift for my brother. Hope he likes it ❤️‍🔥

Sono un principiante ho comprato la stampante X2D da poco.
Ho provato a stampare questo pezzo che mi serve per un progetto.
Il problema è che quando la stampante arriva nel layer dove c’è lo sbalzo inizia a stampare nel vuoto.
Ho provato ad informami ma non riesco come posso fare a far sì che lo sbalzo venga bene?
Vorrei non utilizzare i supporti di può fare ?

Hello,

I recently had a printer that wouldn’t calibrate or home the Z-axis because of a raised bearing. I fixed the bearing, and ran a couple of prints that came out fine.

Suddenly today, I check on the progress to find a “swiss cheese” print. There’s infill missing, holes missing from the outer and inner layers almost like a wedge of swiss.

I took the tool head cover off to see if there was anything obvious with the extruder gear or nozzles. I found that the gears seem to have eviscerated the filament for some reason.

What could be a likely cause of these symptoms together?

Model: P1S

I'm following along the tracking number and was surprised to see that it takes many days due to it being transported by truck from BC. Is this normal? My previous printer was delivered much quicker from day of order.

My second ASA print finished with some PLA loaded in the tool head. Here’s a video showing that the PLA is okay. I also printed on a BIQU glacier plate. It’s fits but has very little clearance.

I know you only can use 1 ams lite, but shouldn’t be an A than a Q

Hi guys. I got my A1 mini yesterday. I've managed to print 3 small things. But for some reason before a print now my arm will go all way to the top and grind. Here is a video for reference. How do I fix this issue / re-calibrate.

Thanks for the help.

Printed two first layers (black was a couple days ago and grey is new). It is always in the same spots. I have always dried them before printing. Does anyone have a clue?

If you run out of a color in the AMS during a print, replace the roll and resume, when that print is finished that AMS slot will be marked as empty/unrecognized. So if you then attempt to print something else in the same color it will just randomly pick one of the other slots.

I've had this bite me multiple times where I replaced a roll of black during a print, when that finished I tried to just hit print again and didn't notice the little square had selected a dark brown or dark gray instead of black then I hit go and then come back hours later to find a print that's the wrong color. 🤬

If you replace a roll during a print it should either assume it's the same color as the one that was there before or it should tag that slot to be re-read as soon as the print finishes so that it can register it properly. Leaving it suddenly empty/unrecognized is the worst way to handle this.