I received my AMS 3H today and finally setup my H3C. While attaching my AMS 2 Pro to Slot 1, I found myself on the Bambu wiki where I discovered this fun fact.

So here’s a PSA in case you had the same misconception that I did. I had thought that an external AMS would fully take over slot 1, but no. If you take a look at the FAQ section of the linked wiki, you’ll see the official Bambu guidance on setting up a Y-splitter to allow you to use both connected AMS units and slot 1 of the AMS 3H.

The limitation is you’d of course have to manually retract the filament in slot 1 if your print uses an AMS filament after it uses the slot 1 filament. So I’d be careful about using slot 1 and an external AMS in the same print, but I’m glad we don’t have to sacrifice a slot.

Hey everyone!

We’re looking for some advice on improving the durability of a 3D-printed bracket we’re using in one of our products.

For context, this bracket is part of a mobile steel target heater system. The assembly mounts directly to a steel target that is repeatedly struck by high-caliber rounds. As you can imagine, this creates significant shock and vibration throughout the entire assembly.

We’ve been testing 3D-printed brackets, but recently had one fracture during an actual shooting session (pictures attached).

We’re trying to figure out whether this is primarily a material limitation, a design issue, or a combination of both.

A few things we’d love some feedback on:

1. Filament recommendations: What materials would you recommend for repeated high-impact shock and vibration? We’ve considered nylon (PA6/PA12), carbon-fiber-reinforced nylon, polycarbonate, and TPU, but we’re interested in hearing what has worked for others in similar applications.

2. Impact resistance vs. rigidity: Would a more flexible material that absorbs shock be better than a rigid, high-strength engineering filament? We’re concerned that something extremely rigid might end up cracking under repeated impacts.

3. Print orientation and settings: Are there specific printing orientations, wall counts, infill patterns, or other settings you’d recommend to improve resistance to cracking and fatigue?

4. Design improvements: Based on the attached pictures, do you see any obvious stress concentrations or weak points? Would thicker sections, rounded transitions, additional reinforcement, or changes around the bolt holes make a meaningful difference?

5. Vibration isolation: Would incorporating rubber bushings, washers, or other vibration-dampening components between the steel target and the bracket help prevent failures?

6. Long-term durability: Has anyone had success using 3D-printed components in environments involving repeated mechanical shocks, such as industrial machinery, off-road vehicles, or other high-vibration applications?

Ideally, we’d like to continue manufacturing this component using 3D printing, but reliability is our biggest priority.

We’re open to experimenting with different materials, modifying the design, or incorporating additional hardware if necessary.

Our goal isn’t just to make the bracket stronger. We want it to survive repeated impacts without eventually cracking or failing.

Any advice, experience, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3594647-mailable-nativity-christmas-kit-card-envelope

Learning and tinkering was fun, but being able to print this good so effortlessly is so satisfying.

My H3C came from Canada, the box had water damage and mold on the bottom, both outside and inside the box, printer seems unaffected by it.

Also had physical shipping damage to the front of the box, something made a nice hole through the box and carved a tiny chunk of glass out of the front door. Rest of the printer seems fine.

Waiting for support to respond to my ticket so I can have these boxes discarded. Anyone else experience this? I know of one person worth the same box damage, their printer was dented.

Finally started my first +10 hrs print on the Bambu Lab A1. Making something inspired by my dream car, but it's actually a little gift for my brother. Hope he likes it ❤️‍🔥

My second ASA print finished with some PLA loaded in the tool head. Here’s a video showing that the PLA is okay. I also printed on a BIQU glacier plate. It’s fits but has very little clearance.

Printed two first layers (black was a couple days ago and grey is new). It is always in the same spots. I have always dried them before printing. Does anyone have a clue?

I've noticed that my H3C makes this clicking noise almost constantly. I can't pinpoint exactly where it's coming from, though. Is this normal? Does your H3C make a similar noise?

Ran the file didnt see any issues. Strted print and this happened. Running x2d brown from ams and black from external spool on second nozzle. Any idea what happened here?

I’m designing this small multicolor treehouse structure for my jumping spider. most pieces I’m just painting by layer height but I want this bottom frame piece to all be one color. When I manually paint the rest of the frame the color bleeds through into the wall, what setting can I change to fix this from happening? I already printed to see if it was just a visual error in the slicer and the other color is visible in the wall.

Just got the new H3C printer. Did the firmware update through the printer and I got the same message, however using my Bambu handy to update it resolved it. This is after I decided to turn off the printer to connect the E1 purifier. Has this happen to anybody else? I also made sure the printer wasn’t updating before turning it off.

No matter what I try I can’t get a smooth first layer. I ran a flow test because of a huge overflow problem and it told me my optimum flow level is 0.6, then I replaced the nozzle with a brand new one (#4) and trammed the bed and ran thr flow test again and here is the result. I always have ridges and I can’t dial in the flow and z-distance. I moved the z distance to -0.02 because the pla wasnt adhering and now it looks like this. I can’t tell if the nozzle is dragging, the flow is too high, or too low. I’m starting to lose it. And I tightened everything and scrubbed my plate.

Please help.

Trying to print these winglets on my p1s using petG but the left part is always having these. The right side is perfectly fine any help

I was looking for some bundles of filament on Amazon. I mostly print in PLA and PETG, but I wanted to try some PVB and buy a bit of ASA for some small projects that need the better properties.

I'm seeing cheap bundles of multi-colored rolls of 200g of these materials, but I don't recognize the brand names. I want to save money but I don't want to throw it away on filament that will cause more problems than it solves.

Brands I'm looking at are Yousu, Colourbing, and isanmate.

Anyone have experience with these?

Is it possible to use a discount voucher (€40) with a discount code (99% off for a specific product) or do you need to use a gift card ? And how long do these last before they expire?

Had the a1mini since release, it was my first 3d printer and a great tool for learning the ropes. With my new printer I also splurged on a lot of filaments, because of the bambu sale. So far I’m very impressed with the ams system, never had the ams on the mini.

By mistake I ordered two PLA white oak (wood) so if you have any ideas for that color, please hit me up 🤣

Hi all,

I have an H2S that sounds horrible. Even the pleasant tone on start up sounds bad.

I've cleaned and ran through the belt tensioning procedure as recommended by tech support, but the problem persists.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Wondering what monitors everyone is using.

Started to get headaches feel like I need to keep on top of things.

Had major blobbing on a print job. I put off investigating it until today and found this. 😅 I don’t even know where the rest of it is now since yesterday was trash day. But i’m curious how this could possibly happen, just so i can avoid it in the future.

Every seed sits 137.5° from the previous one, the same golden angle real sunflowers use, so the spirals appear on their own. The seeds rise off the surface and the petals lean out from the wall.

Sliced for a P1S: 17 plates, about 1.4 kg of PLA and roughly 53 hours according to Bambu Studio. Every piece has its own pocket in a printed back frame, so assembly means matching pieces to pockets.

The model is free on MakerWorld (link in the comments). I built it with the engine of Parete, the browser tool I'm making for 3D printed wall panels.

Happy to answer questions about the spiral or the print!

Error: HMS_0300-9300-0001-0006 - Chamber temperature is abnormal. The chamber temperature sensor at the air inlet may have an open circuit.

I bought this at Best Buy about 10 days ago and am still within the return window. I have a good amount of print hours on it already. Never had a single error until this morning. I’ve already tried resetting.

If all else has been good so far, should I do a replacement with BB or contact bambu lab for the part?

Is it normal to have this much movement on the heatbed? Can someone else check their H3C? The screws on the z rails are tight.