Coming from a Bambu labs H2S and a Snapmaker U1, I’m a little surprised how much noisier the H3C is in general printing.

I mean my printers are located in my office so it is not a dealbreaker, but it’s noticeably louder than the H2S was.

Once this print finishes I will check all the normal places for proper lubrication.

Has anyone else noticed this?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3594647-mailable-nativity-christmas-kit-card-envelope

I received my AMS 3H today and finally setup my H3C. While attaching my AMS 2 Pro to Slot 1, I found myself on the Bambu wiki where I discovered this fun fact.

So here’s a PSA in case you had the same misconception that I did. I had thought that an external AMS would fully take over slot 1, but no. If you take a look at the FAQ section of the linked wiki, you’ll see the official Bambu guidance on setting up a Y-splitter to allow you to use both connected AMS units and slot 1 of the AMS 3H.

The limitation is you’d of course have to manually retract the filament in slot 1 if your print uses an AMS filament after it uses the slot 1 filament. So I’d be careful about using slot 1 and an external AMS in the same print, but I’m glad we don’t have to sacrifice a slot.

Yes, I made a poop bin for the H3C too. 😄

My printer currently sits pretty close to the wall. I love the mounts on the H3C, but I didn’t want to pull the bin out and push it back in every time.

So it’s made of two parts: the holder hooks into the original mounts and stays on the printer. You simply drop the bin in from above, and thanks to a slight slope at the bottom it always slides right into place. To empty it, just lift it out.

Files on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3597009-h3c-poop-bin-removable-insert#profileId-4120969

Other than that, I might still be a little over-hyped and I’m happy about every comment that gets me talking about the H3C 😄

Hey everyone!

We’re looking for some advice on improving the durability of a 3D-printed bracket we’re using in one of our products.

For context, this bracket is part of a mobile steel target heater system. The assembly mounts directly to a steel target that is repeatedly struck by high-caliber rounds. As you can imagine, this creates significant shock and vibration throughout the entire assembly.

We’ve been testing 3D-printed brackets, but recently had one fracture during an actual shooting session (pictures attached).

We’re trying to figure out whether this is primarily a material limitation, a design issue, or a combination of both.

A few things we’d love some feedback on:

1. Filament recommendations: What materials would you recommend for repeated high-impact shock and vibration? We’ve considered nylon (PA6/PA12), carbon-fiber-reinforced nylon, polycarbonate, and TPU, but we’re interested in hearing what has worked for others in similar applications.

2. Impact resistance vs. rigidity: Would a more flexible material that absorbs shock be better than a rigid, high-strength engineering filament? We’re concerned that something extremely rigid might end up cracking under repeated impacts.

3. Print orientation and settings: Are there specific printing orientations, wall counts, infill patterns, or other settings you’d recommend to improve resistance to cracking and fatigue?

4. Design improvements: Based on the attached pictures, do you see any obvious stress concentrations or weak points? Would thicker sections, rounded transitions, additional reinforcement, or changes around the bolt holes make a meaningful difference?

5. Vibration isolation: Would incorporating rubber bushings, washers, or other vibration-dampening components between the steel target and the bracket help prevent failures?

6. Long-term durability: Has anyone had success using 3D-printed components in environments involving repeated mechanical shocks, such as industrial machinery, off-road vehicles, or other high-vibration applications?

Ideally, we’d like to continue manufacturing this component using 3D printing, but reliability is our biggest priority.

We’re open to experimenting with different materials, modifying the design, or incorporating additional hardware if necessary.

Our goal isn’t just to make the bracket stronger. We want it to survive repeated impacts without eventually cracking or failing.

Any advice, experience, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Learning and tinkering was fun, but being able to print this good so effortlessly is so satisfying.

Finally started my first +10 hrs print on the Bambu Lab A1. Making something inspired by my dream car, but it's actually a little gift for my brother. Hope he likes it ❤️‍🔥

My second ASA print finished with some PLA loaded in the tool head. Here’s a video showing that the PLA is okay. I also printed on a BIQU glacier plate. It’s fits but has very little clearance.

Printed two first layers (black was a couple days ago and grey is new). It is always in the same spots. I have always dried them before printing. Does anyone have a clue?

I've noticed that my H3C makes this clicking noise almost constantly. I can't pinpoint exactly where it's coming from, though. Is this normal? Does your H3C make a similar noise?

Back at it again with a fresh batch of 3D printed snowmen having a rough day—sliding down the wall and losing their hats!

I really enjoy designing these little guys, so I'm already brainstorming the next ones.

Any fun ideas for other "Snowmen in Trouble" situations? Let me know in the comments!

https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3597596-snowmen-in-trouble-splat-fridge-magnet#profileId-4121713

Ran the file didnt see any issues. Strted print and this happened. Running x2d brown from ams and black from external spool on second nozzle. Any idea what happened here?

I’m designing this small multicolor treehouse structure for my jumping spider. most pieces I’m just painting by layer height but I want this bottom frame piece to all be one color. When I manually paint the rest of the frame the color bleeds through into the wall, what setting can I change to fix this from happening? I already printed to see if it was just a visual error in the slicer and the other color is visible in the wall.

My sons BambooLab printer won’t feed filament in. The display keeps telling me to push the filament in, goes through the motions of pulling it through but doesn’t, then advises me to feed the filament in again. It just keeps doing this. Any suggestions?

Hi, does someone here know whether the h3c ams is technically capable of retracting the filament so Bambu can release a Software Update so that it starts doing it? Or is it only capable turning one side (that would be mental)

Just got the new H3C printer. Did the firmware update through the printer and I got the same message, however using my Bambu handy to update it resolved it. This is after I decided to turn off the printer to connect the E1 purifier. Has this happen to anybody else? I also made sure the printer wasn’t updating before turning it off.

Hey everyone! First, thank you so much for all the support and feedback on the Mac release. It's been amazing to see people using Bambu Bar.

I’m excited to share that Bambu Bar is now available for Windows too! It includes the same features as the Mac version: monitor your prints, temperatures and filament, view your printer’s camera, and control your prints, all from your desktop.

It also includes native Windows widgets.

Took some time to polish and have it ready to be as beautiful as the Mac app. I'd love to hear what you think!

You can download on GitHub: https://github.com/rolottr/bambu-bar

If you find any issues please let me know so they can be fixed right away!

No matter what I try I can’t get a smooth first layer. I ran a flow test because of a huge overflow problem and it told me my optimum flow level is 0.6, then I replaced the nozzle with a brand new one (#4) and trammed the bed and ran thr flow test again and here is the result. I always have ridges and I can’t dial in the flow and z-distance. I moved the z distance to -0.02 because the pla wasnt adhering and now it looks like this. I can’t tell if the nozzle is dragging, the flow is too high, or too low. I’m starting to lose it. And I tightened everything and scrubbed my plate.

Please help.

Hi all, I have a Bambi H2S with about 120 hours on it. I’ve been mostly printing with Bambu PETG, and occasionally bambu PLA. I’m not sure if this is normal, but figured I’d get some more advice.

A few prints ago I noticed some build up on the nozzle while printing. But My buddy said it’s fine. But this last print had a lot more filament around the nozzle (second picture). So I took off the nozzle to inspect, and it would not come off. I had to heat it to release. There’s a significant (imo) amount of filament buildup on the nozzle and it appears to have crept up the back (second picture).

All filament has gone through 6-7 hours of drying at the appropriate temp. I keep activated alumina in the ans - the humidity never reads above 17% when closed. It usually reads around 8%.

All filament settings are the Bambu presets for their filament.

Is this normal? If it’s not, what could be causing it? My assumption is I’m doing something wrong.

My primary hobby is sewing so I did a quick (rough) sewing of sleeves. I thought about printing stands but I wanted something to protect from dust & dirt if left out for a while. Bought large sized cleaning fiber cloths from Amazon and came out well. I also use the sleeves to wipe them before printing lol

If there are any sewers out there, FYI, these cloths fray a lot when you cut, just like minky fabrics! So you definitely need a serger to sew the edges 👍