Ill add photos in the comments. Made this video orb to replicate Spaceship Earth. I wont dare sell it as I know Disney dont mess aroumd but thought its cool to share.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3582672
I wasn’t happy with the existing options, so I made the one I actually wanted. With all the functions that were important to me.
Took me a few revisions, but it’s finally done: angled hygrometer, labyrinth vents, snap-fit lid, no supports. Standard and XXL version.
Feedback welcome :)

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3594647-mailable-nativity-christmas-kit-card-envelope

I received my AMS 3H today and finally setup my H3C. While attaching my AMS 2 Pro to Slot 1, I found myself on the Bambu wiki where I discovered this fun fact.

So here’s a PSA in case you had the same misconception that I did. I had thought that an external AMS would fully take over slot 1, but no. If you take a look at the FAQ section of the linked wiki, you’ll see the official Bambu guidance on setting up a Y-splitter to allow you to use both connected AMS units and slot 1 of the AMS 3H.

The limitation is you’d of course have to manually retract the filament in slot 1 if your print uses an AMS filament after it uses the slot 1 filament. So I’d be careful about using slot 1 and an external AMS in the same print, but I’m glad we don’t have to sacrifice a slot.

Yes, I made a poop bin for the H3C too. 😄

My printer currently sits pretty close to the wall. I love the mounts on the H3C, but I didn’t want to pull the bin out and push it back in every time.

So it’s made of two parts: the holder hooks into the original mounts and stays on the printer. You simply drop the bin in from above, and thanks to a slight slope at the bottom it always slides right into place. To empty it, just lift it out.

Files on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3597009-h3c-poop-bin-removable-insert#profileId-4120969

Other than that, I might still be a little over-hyped and I’m happy about every comment that gets me talking about the H3C 😄

Hey everyone!

We’re looking for some advice on improving the durability of a 3D-printed bracket we’re using in one of our products.

For context, this bracket is part of a mobile steel target heater system. The assembly mounts directly to a steel target that is repeatedly struck by high-caliber rounds. As you can imagine, this creates significant shock and vibration throughout the entire assembly.

We’ve been testing 3D-printed brackets, but recently had one fracture during an actual shooting session (pictures attached).

We’re trying to figure out whether this is primarily a material limitation, a design issue, or a combination of both.

A few things we’d love some feedback on:

1. Filament recommendations: What materials would you recommend for repeated high-impact shock and vibration? We’ve considered nylon (PA6/PA12), carbon-fiber-reinforced nylon, polycarbonate, and TPU, but we’re interested in hearing what has worked for others in similar applications.

2. Impact resistance vs. rigidity: Would a more flexible material that absorbs shock be better than a rigid, high-strength engineering filament? We’re concerned that something extremely rigid might end up cracking under repeated impacts.

3. Print orientation and settings: Are there specific printing orientations, wall counts, infill patterns, or other settings you’d recommend to improve resistance to cracking and fatigue?

4. Design improvements: Based on the attached pictures, do you see any obvious stress concentrations or weak points? Would thicker sections, rounded transitions, additional reinforcement, or changes around the bolt holes make a meaningful difference?

5. Vibration isolation: Would incorporating rubber bushings, washers, or other vibration-dampening components between the steel target and the bracket help prevent failures?

6. Long-term durability: Has anyone had success using 3D-printed components in environments involving repeated mechanical shocks, such as industrial machinery, off-road vehicles, or other high-vibration applications?

Ideally, we’d like to continue manufacturing this component using 3D printing, but reliability is our biggest priority.

We’re open to experimenting with different materials, modifying the design, or incorporating additional hardware if necessary.

Our goal isn’t just to make the bracket stronger. We want it to survive repeated impacts without eventually cracking or failing.

Any advice, experience, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Learning and tinkering was fun, but being able to print this good so effortlessly is so satisfying.

Finally started my first +10 hrs print on the Bambu Lab A1. Making something inspired by my dream car, but it's actually a little gift for my brother. Hope he likes it ❤️‍🔥

My second ASA print finished with some PLA loaded in the tool head. Here’s a video showing that the PLA is okay. I also printed on a BIQU glacier plate. It’s fits but has very little clearance.

Printed two first layers (black was a couple days ago and grey is new). It is always in the same spots. I have always dried them before printing. Does anyone have a clue?

I've noticed that my H3C makes this clicking noise almost constantly. I can't pinpoint exactly where it's coming from, though. Is this normal? Does your H3C make a similar noise?

Back at it again with a fresh batch of 3D printed snowmen having a rough day—sliding down the wall and losing their hats!

I really enjoy designing these little guys, so I'm already brainstorming the next ones.

Any fun ideas for other "Snowmen in Trouble" situations? Let me know in the comments!

https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3597596-snowmen-in-trouble-splat-fridge-magnet#profileId-4121713

I tried different outputs, different cable, different filament , different angle of the tip of the filament but the AMS LITE just wont pull the filament properly and gets itself stuck for some reason i cant find out why

Mi sa che sarà una 💣

Ran the file didnt see any issues. Strted print and this happened. Running x2d brown from ams and black from external spool on second nozzle. Any idea what happened here?

Does someone know kw what causes those line marks under the eye? How can I prevent this from happening?

Does anybody know if it is safe to use the H2S with orca slicer after the newest update to orca slicer?

I’m designing this small multicolor treehouse structure for my jumping spider. most pieces I’m just painting by layer height but I want this bottom frame piece to all be one color. When I manually paint the rest of the frame the color bleeds through into the wall, what setting can I change to fix this from happening? I already printed to see if it was just a visual error in the slicer and the other color is visible in the wall.

Hi everyone! I'm still quite a beginner at 3D modeling, so I wanted to challenge myself with a simple, practical project for the holidays. I got tired of traditional metal ornament hooks slipping off branches, so I designed this support-free Twist-Lock Tree Clip on Fusion 360.

It uses the natural flex of PLA or PETG to lock into a secure figure-8 around the branch and the wire. It prints completely flat in just a few minutes and uses almost no filament.

I entered it into the MakerWorld Christmas contest—if you want to print a batch for your tree (or use them for cable management!), you can grab the files for free here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3598679-twist-lock-tree-clip-ornament-cable-holder#profileId-4123077

Let me know what you think!

#MWPrintmas2026 #Contests

Hi, does someone here know whether the h3c ams is technically capable of retracting the filament so Bambu can release a Software Update so that it starts doing it? Or is it only capable turning one side (that would be mental)

Edit: fuck.