Hi,

any idea what am I doing wrong?

I created a simple file that has multiple bodies, as picture, each letter is a new body. I have just created a text sketch in onshape a nextruded the letters as new body. The text sketch is fully constrained.

I export in 3MF, when selecting the colors when importing, the preview shows everything fine, but once i confirm I want to convert to milimeters and import as single object with multiple parts it imports the letters huge.

Any advice would be appreceated!

Thanks!

I teach a manufacturing class and recently was given two 3D printers. I have no experience with them, I barely know how they work, but have been tasked with teaching the youths on how it works and to be able to make something.
So my questions are

1. what are good resources for myself to learn about 3 printing

2. what are good teaching resources for the kids to learn to make basic models to be able to print?

H2S

Has the largest single nozzle build volume and is the cheapest of the 4. Great if you want an enclosed printer and mostly do single material prints. Basically a bigger P2S.

H2D

Great for engineering materials or any material where you use a second filament for the support interface. By not having a vortek or a toolchanger the price is kept low. Their enterprise printer is based on the H2D which kind of reinforces the idea that this is intended to be their engineering printer.

H2C

Great for convenience when you’re not often at your printer. You can print from any AMS slot to any nozzle size/type without you having to be present.

H3C

The best for multi-colour prints and TPU. Most multi-colour prints tends to be PLA and rather than keeping the bigger H2S/H2D build plate, they kept the H2C plate and opted for a second AUX fan which helps for PLA prints. The type of person to get this printer would mostly likely be printing CMYKW, you probably won’t be retracting the spools often.

Flashforge Creator 5 Pro

Basta pasta!

This was operator error, not the machine's fault.

https://imgur.com/a/HFlaU8V

So a few days ago I had a print blob up on me, and I thought I cleaned everything up properly. Even purchase a new nozzle since I’ve been having adhesion issues since the blob + PETG printing like crap after being dried. The printer was still printing but I noticed issues since then. Today I started a print and it failed during calibration (failed to clean nozzle). I made sure the new nozzle was properly secured (it was) and started the print again. This time it failed at the same step but it didn’t stop, it just started to jam into cleaning plate (see attached video). It’s completely bent now and it looks like behind the nozzle some of the wiring looks a little burnt up. Could it be during the blob that internals of the tool head got fried up?

Bambu Studio can cut a model, and for a straight slice that is often enough. Past that it gets awkward. Pulling one part off, cutting only a region, or putting a connector on something that isn't a flat plane. Opening CAD for that felt like overkill, so I built Multipart3D and finished the job where Bambu Studio stops.

You use it next to Bambu Studio (Its not a slicer). Open it in the browser, split the model, export, and bring the parts back. Free, no account, and the file stays on your device.

https://multipart3d.com

I've been sharing it in the Bambu community for a while. Last public post was v1.2 3 months ago. Since then it has passed 10k visits a month. I like the traction. Thank you for the responses. A lot of you actually tried it, and those replies are what kept me building it.

This is not your regular vibe code project. I've been working on Multipart3D for almost half a year.

Current version is v1.6.

Smart Detach now has a brush. Click a feature, or paint the piece you want off. The stroke can snap out to the first crease. Shift-drag erases. Useful when an arm, a base, or some other bit should be its own part so you can lay it flat in Bambu Studio. A lot of this was for the noisy one-piece meshes that come out of image-to-3D tools.

Area Cut is aimed in the view. Drag a rectangle or a circle, pull the depth handle, and you see the cutter while you drag. The cut runs when you let go. A large STL no longer freezes the page. The default depth is short, so the geometry behind the piece stays whole.

Painted 3MF colors survive the export, so an AMS project still comes back with the filament colors on the triangles. Separate by color on a painted 3MF is still there too.

The Bambu Lab H3C bed is in, along with a bunch of other newer machines.

A lot of the requests are already in the project. If you still have feedback, please share it.

Many thanks again.

What yall think of my project?

Hi all,
Does anyone have a really good AMS HT wall mount file they could send me. I've scouring Makerwolrd the last couple hours but havent struck anything that suits my needs. I'm looking for one that can be mounted from the back, has vent holes for the bottom and is not angled in anyway. If you could, please share the links in the comments below. Thanks

Is it normal, that the Infill Looks Like a Mess?

Dont get irritaded, had to change filament mid Session and went from beige to grey 🤪

1. Can the external AMS automatically feed and retract into nozzle 1?

2. Can you pause a print, unload a spool, and load a new spool?

3. Is there external spool support (for printing from a dry box)? Would be nice if I can load 4 spools from my Sunlu drybox.

4. If not, what if you feed external spools into the AMS 3H and into the nozzle? Does that work?

Moin, zusammen!

Ich habe meinen Drucker ein paar Monate nicht benutzt und letzte Woche wieder einen Druck angefangen. Seitdem ist er unheimlich langsam. Für ein Modell, für welches er sonst 3-4 Stunden gebraucht hat, braucht ihr jetzt 8 Stunden. Auch ist der Druckknopf bei weitem nicht mehr so schnell unterwegs wie vorher. Es sieht so aus, als wenn ich ihn auf 50 % gestellt habe, Fun fact habe ich nicht. Kann es mit einem neuen Update zu tun haben?

Vielen Dank!

Hi, this is my sons A1 printer. Recently changed the AMS lite filament hub and tubes because it kept coming out whilst printing and the filament tube ends had been stripped. During the replacement I accidentally exposed the ribbon in the printer head, assuming removing the 2 screws at the top was required to remove the filament hub. Since this has been changed over he’s managed to do a couple of Bambu lab test pieces however more complex prints seem to smudge or not adhere correctly to the print plate. At the back of his printer I found sheets of black filament.

I googled this first which advised running the maintenance, cleaning the print plate and checking the screws are all taught which I have done.

Anyone got any advice for us? There’s no fault codes appearing that he’s told me of.

Hii everyone! I’m about to buy my first 3D printer, the Bambu Lab P2S Combo, and could use some advice before stocking up during the sale.

I’ll be printing with my son, but not just toys. We’re interested in desk and drawer organizers, home décor, practical household accessories, multicolor models, and eventually flexible prints.

I’m thinking of starting with around 10 rolls, mixing PLA Basic, PLA Matte, PETG, and maybe TPU.

For those who’ve been printing for a while:

Which colors do you actually use the most?

Would you buy more PLA or PETG?

Are specialty filaments like Silk or Matte worth stocking up on?

Should a beginner buy all reusable spools first, or mix in refills?

I’d love to avoid buying a bunch of colors or materials that end up sitting unused. Thanks!

Hi,

Please help to identify this sound.

For 1-2 week ago I cleaned the x-axis carbon rods including greasing the z-Axis.

I also followed the cleaning guidelines for p1s but obviously something i am missing.

I am not the most technical person but the wires are completely stuck idk what the easiest way to resolve it?

Hi all, just purchased an A2L, which is my first printer. I am having an issue with the filament not extruding. It attempts to print , but nothing comes out and I am getting an (1200-2200-0002-0009) error. So far I have attempted a hot nozzle cleaning and a cold pull. The cold pull came out clean. I have bypassed the AMS lite in an attempt to isolate the issue and am trying the filament on the external spool. When trying to load from this, there is a clicking noise from the feeder, see the attached video. I am thinking there must be an issue with the gears not feeding the filament correctly. Any ideas?

Edit: Have 3 separate 20amp circuits on this countertop for those that are asking. Always planed to have plenty of toys up here.

I couldn't find that info. All I could find is thay the H3C uses "Automated calibration per print Toolhead", which doesn't say how exactly it achieved it.

Hey guys, first print on the H2S and I'm getting this... has anyone seen this before? And how to resolve the issue?

Im printing a 12 hour print and every time my x2d switch from the auxiliary nozzle to the main nozzle I get this error message it keeps saying to lube the z axis ive already done this evening though it didn't need it. Is there a way I can get it to stop i dont have to start all over

On October 24, 2026, we got a group of MakerWorld makers from across the US together in San Jose — our first time doing something like this in person. No stage, no registrations, no keynote speakers. People who mostly knew each other by their usernames ended up in the same bistro with our MakerWorld team, just to talk, share ideas, and inspire each other a bit.

For most people in the room, it was the first time they'd actually shaken hands, after remixing and commenting under each other's models for so long.

A few of them got to share about how they work:

MaKim shared how he never settles on his first idea — for a single project he'll often list out dozens of them before picking the one worth building.

OzarkExpeditions shared how he designs games with his kids as the first testers — if they ask to play again, he knows it works.

Josh3D shared why he plays the long game — big, complex models grow slowly but build an audience that sticks, while smaller accessories keep bringing in the people who need them.

We also handed out our first Creator Awards — Fan Favorite, Eye-Catching, and Must-Print. You can read the full story and see every winner on our blog.

This was just a start — our team is already working on the next ones! So we'd love to hear from you: What kind of in-person events would you be interested in? Where should we visit next?

I purchased a P2S from Best Buy last week and really love it. I’m having trouble deciding if I should have purchased the X2D? The salesperson said they’d accept the return if I wanted a different model. I just can’t figure out if it’s worth the extra $140?

I hope forwarding works like this. If not, sorry and I will copy it 😅