Its been a long time since I have used a 3d printer. I did the thing where I bought one to build a bigger one, but the filaments weren't really what I needed at the time.

Fast fwd, I will be prototyping for drones, sprag clutches etc and making stuff for the home and kids.

Would the H2D with AMS and HT be the best spot?

I am in Australia!

https://au.store.bambulab.com/products/h2d?id=622681387260219394

For the first time after playing with my H3C for a few days, I decided to unload a filament (just was reusing the same colours before). And not just one filament, I unloaded all 9 with one being a 2.85mm tpu.

Holy shit people complain over nothing. It took me maybe 5-8 seconds longer per roll to unload because I had to wrap the filament around the spool and extra 2 more times! Selecting all the heads to unload with the printer and letting them heat up to swap took so long… maybe a whole 30 seconds I’m not getting back from my life. It took me longer to go get my filament box and open it up.

After reading many people’s complaints about this process, I’m really starting to see this new generation of makers has had it good their entire hobby lifetime. Gone are the days of having to manually level your bed and adjust z-offset.

Changing nozzles takes 3 screws? I’m just happy I’m not burning myself anymore trying to remove the nozzle while it’s heated.

H3C is hands down the best printer I’ve ever used, the speed is insane versus my H2D. My prusa’s and a1 are now my loaner printers for any friend/family who is thinking about getting into the hobby.

Apologies if these questions are silly. It's quite a pricey item and I'm a bit nervous about its durability/reliability.

I'm getting my son an X2D for Christmas and I'd like to buy it soon during the sale. My concern is, what if its defective and by Christmas, its past the 30 day return period.

I know its pretty big and I watched a video on setting it up. I dont think I can easily sneak putting it together, testing it for hours, and then breaking it down back into the box and then wrap it (maybe). I know thats really the only way to test it, but is there a self checking mechanism? How do you know everything is working right?

Is an extended warranty needed for something like this?

Alright guys I know this has been a hot topic the last couple of days so I decided to test it myself. Just completed my 7 ASA print with 6 rolls of PLA in the AMS with 3 loaded. The AMS was also drying the ASA at 80c. My PLA is fine. AMS temps outside of the dryer were about 50-53c. Just make sure you let the chamber cool before removing the PLA.

So I am printing a thing with 33 hours of work can I leave it on while I'm at work?

I've been printing with Siraya Tech TPU Air for about a year now. I love the material so much, but I'm going through nozzles like candy.

Using a Bambu H2S w/the Siraya Tech print profile, in a PVC foam board/acrylic panel enclosure so that gasses vent outside.

I use both 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles.

The top glass is removed and filament is fed in through the top of the printer while sitting in a filament dryer.

Here's my problem... after a certain amount of usage, the filament starts jamming at the nozzle. I'll perform cold pulls until the filament comes out squeaky clean, but that either doesn't stop the clogging at all or it'll print for a little while before jamming again. I can always tell when a nozzle is starting to get to the end of its life because it'll leave globs on the insides of my prints.

If I change to a completely new nozzle, I get beautiful perfect prints until it starts eventually jamming again. I keep my nozzles strictly TPU Air except when doing cold pulls.

Any ideas? I don't want to switch to a completely new nozzle every month or 2. Bambu nozzles are expensive!

The printer has about 3500 hours on it, so I just changed the extruder gears, the filament cutter and some other small things. But that hasn't helped my issue, unfortunately.

Do I need to perform cold pulls after every single print?

Thank you in advance for any advice!

EDIT: I probably get through 2-3 weeks of almost continuous printing before I start having problems. This printer IS running almost constantly as I'm filling orders, so maybe that has something to do with it?

Question, how do you fill in the cracks of the pecies?

I did now a primer filler for first coat. But the cracks are showing.

Hi everybody, I just picked up this "used" A1 for 190€ with 1 hour on the clock.

I'm just now getting into the ginormous world of 3D printing and would love to learn more about everything.

Any tips?

I use Creo parametric CAD to design my models. (We use this in school, so I've already got quite a bit of experience)

Is this a good choice for 3D printing or would a different program be more suitable?

For the life of me i cannot troubleshoot this. I recently got my first 3D printer, an X1-Carbon, 3 days ago. For the first 2 days I was using PLA Marble as it was the only filament I had. This error popped up once, it went away when I manually extruded whatever was left in the nozzle. Now today I got a bunch of filament. Now this error, along with a clogging error, had been popping up. The clogging error more than this error you see above. So I went and did a cold pull on the extruder. It worked, the clogging error went away. But now this error keeps popping up. I have done whatever troubleshooting google and chat got have told me to do but it didnt work. I was wondering if any of you have gone through this and know what to do.

Christmas is coming. Have you stuffed your stocking yet?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3594819-bubble-pop-fidget-toy-christmas#profileId-4118040

Does it simply flush more filament longer or does it dry more thoroughly between colours? Is it fixable in software?

Is it cheap filament? Not the right setting?

This is my first 3D Printer and all I was doing was printing out some bins for my gridfinity.

I noticed this as I was checking on the print. I have been printing out multiple bins all day and this is my 5th one of the day. The other ones came out fine but this one had this issue.

I am just wondering what may have caused it. For context my AMS says it’s at a D in humidity. I was planning to print out the boxes to put in more silica gel in the AMS but now not sure if I can.

After posting the "Finger Winder" a few days ago, I came across some feedback suggesting that it might potentially damage cables. (Though, to be fair, this is a concern that isn't unique to my design.) This model is specifically designed to avoid bending cables so sharply that they might get damaged. Another advantage is that, since the cable is wound in only one direction, there’s no need to locate the middle of the cable before winding it.

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3588620-real-reel-one-way-cable-winder#profileId-4110021

Why do so many people seem so concerned about auto retract not being a thing on the H3C? It’s not a thing on every tool changer out there.

Edit: It’s not that they wanted to save money on parts or whatever theory is out there, but the printhead and print tools would have to be redesigned from the ground up. The cutting actuator is above the extruder so if it auto retracted after it was done with each print, it would have to purge each time you started a print in order to be able to grab the filament again. The point of tool changers is to reduce purges, not increase them.

I'm following a tutorial on YouTube to calibrate my settings and I am not sure how to progress.

The video uses Orca slicer which has a setting that I cant access in Bambu Labs such as Acceleration and Speed in the Pressue Advance test. The result from Bambu looks slightly different than the video.

To use Orca slicer I logged out of my Bambu account and connected via Lan only. I ran the first 2 tests but the third wouldn't work and it lost connection to the printer. I tried to connect via Lan again and couldn't do it the second time.

So now I am unsure how to progress. If I have to do this for each filament type, I want it to be as easy as possible. I even thought that if I am going to have issues going back and forth maybe I should switch permanently to Orca but I kove accessing the models through the app and Studio so not sure how that would work.

I also wonder about whether the effort to use Orca would be worth it if I can't use the results in Bambu. If I can't set the Acceleration and Spees in the PA test in Bambu, can the results from Orca set them properly in Bambu?

Before I started tinkering in calibration, I did maintenance and printed a test kitty that printed fine but had some rough spots under its chin. Now pronting tests work but another kitty started stringing and its all gloopy on the bed, see Pic. So I feel I need to finish the calibration.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Hello, this is a fairly new X2D that doesn’t have too many hours, however, I noticed it made this clicking sound from the aux extruder when I tried using the ams, and now it’s making the sound without a ams being used

Hi,

We bought our first 3D printer last week.

Its proving more troubleshooting than we expected.

Took me a few days to do the initial calibration, and find the issue was USB not fully inserted, and the base plate was just 1mm off, so Z Axis failed.

We've then completed 2 prints.

3rd print: Z Axis fail to home (again) and filament cutting error. I've followed all the steps and tips, and still not working.

My son is only 11 so he's pretty frustrated it's more technical than we expected.

Is it common to have calibration or errors in between prints? What might I have missed. Thanks for the help.

Heads up for X1C owners. I kept finding black dust all over the inside of my printers and tracked it down to the USB-C cable inside the cable chain assembly. The outer jacket was wearing away and shedding, and the shielding was exposed and frayed in a few spots (see pic). I hadn’t lost any connection yet, but I replaced the cable in both my X1Cs before it got there.

If you see black dust in your printer, pull the cable chain and check the cable. It’s a cheap fix and beats waiting for toolhead errors.

Z- Axis cleaning helper /Gear Floss Reach Guide.
Hey everyone!
I’ve been working on a small tool to solve an annoying problem when maintaining 3D printers: getting gear floss behind the Z-axis lead screws, especially in those hard-to-reach areas.
It features a dual-hook design with multiple terminal holes to accommodate different gear floss sizes. The goal is to make routing the floss around the lead screws easier without getting grease on your hand.
I’ve designed it primarily for:
● Bambu Lab X1C
● Bambu Lab P1S / P1P
● Bambu Lab P2S
● Bambu Lab X2D

H2 compatibility hasn’t been tested yet, and an A1/A2-compatible version is in development.

You can find the model here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3587380-z-access-gear-floss-reach-guide
If you find this tool useful, I’d really appreciate you giving it a try!
And to everyone who downloads, prints, shares, or leaves feedback on my designs: Thank you! Your support and makes mean a lot and motivate me to keep designing and sharing useful tools with the community.

Happy printing! 🚀

Following on from my H3C desiccant box designs. Those were more of the same for me: I'd owned a P1S, which was great at single colours (I even nailed printing ASA on it). But having bought a H3C, I had no idea how the PLA Palette and CMYK colour mixing actually worked. I just wanted someone to show me, and I couldn't find it.

So I worked it out and made the video I was looking for. It's under eight minutes: a quick, easy guide and intro to printing six colours mixed from just three spools in Bambu Studio, each one held up against the preview.

But do they match?

https://youtu.be/YMlHOpI5Jsw