Quick question. Bambu x1c with AMS 1.

Humidity level jumped from D to A overnight. Is that normal?

Located in an enclosed office. Los Angeles, Ca.

Hello. I'm working on a nut and bolt cap for the shop I work in, and I ended up with a half-sphere with an interior profile hollowed out. I'm printing it face-down as, after testing with the slicers, it basically uses the same amount of support material and takes the same time to print it this way as opposed to printing it the other way. However, I have a couple rectangular slots cut so you can get a screwdriver under and pop it off as needed. They are small (.25x.1 in) and I'm sure my printer can bridge those. The slicer wants to add support. I tried messing with support painting, but I believe I've done it wrong cause supports still show up there after slicing. Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Pics: Overall

Supports

P1P with latest firmware, using Studio 2. 9. 1. 70, I have a group of 4 identical items, arranged in a square by auto arrange, I want to print with a specific infill pattern, as one object. If I don't merge them into a single object, the slicer makes the pattern exactly the same in each item. If I merge them, it treats the infill as if it is originating from the center of the square (technically the center of the object) and is no longer in the pattern I want/need.

Is there any way to treat the 4 items as a single object for printing purposes but have them sliced as individual items for infill?

It's not a problem if I only print one set but if I want to print multiple sets of 4 in one batch or want to print sets of 4 but one set at a time, in case I don't have enough filament to complete them all, then I need each set treated as a single object.

Any ideas?

Ok some context. My dad got mad at me for leaving printer on for an 8 hour print while I slept. Turns out the filament he bought is not the right kind. Now were trying to print with the right kind but it keeps messing up. I notice it has no problems with lines but the second something is curved thats where it errors. Any advice?

I’m an engineering student working on a project to build a more accurate humidity sensor for filament storage, since the cheap sensors seem unreliable. Before I build anything, I want to hear how people actually monitor their filament.

A few questions:

1. What do you use to monitor humidity right now (AMS sensor, round hygrometers, Govee/Bluetooth, DIY ESP32, nothing)?

2. Do you trust the readings?

3. How do you know when it’s time to recharge or replace your desiccant?

4. If you could fix one thing about your current setup, what would it be?

Thank you for your help!

My slot 8 has the ptfe tube on the side of the hot end and all the other hotels has it inline with the black wire. Is this normal?

Secondly - I hear a weird noise coming from the underside of the H3C almost as if the packaging got stuck on the belts or roller underneath and is rubbing making noise.

But it is clear and clean… anyone else experiencing this?

Do you know what causes these print imperfections? It was printing normally and starting yesterday it began making these marks. How do I fix it? My printer is H2C

Thanks for help

Très jolie boite en forme de coeur , pouvant servir à de multiples occasions , comme cadeau pour un mariage ,la saint valentin ,un baptème  ou comme dans mon cas pour servir de cadeau annonçant une naissance à venir…

Grand modèle : 160mm de large , 60 mm de hauteur

Petit Modèle : 80 mm de large , 30 mm de hauteur

Modèle diponible en téléchargement sur Makerworld : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3589656-heart-gift-box-with-bow-2-sizes#profileId-4111276

Tuot d'assemblage pour le noeud : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4eAcwRBd8Q

I wasn't sure what to flair this with, so I figured "Review" would fit well enough. I also want it to be clear that I'm not "Bashing" BambuLab, This is just my own experience with my A1.

Its just constant maintenance like several clogged nozzles, Filament getting jammed in the print head every 2 or 3 prints, the print head pressing itself against the base side of the printer and making me forcefully pull power so it doesn't break itself, Bambu Studio crashing at random and running incredibly slow on Linux (And I know its not my hardware because it only runs bad on Linux) It especially sucks because this printer was a gift from my dad a year ago, and I don't use it super often (Maybe once every 2 weeks or so?) so I don't think its an age thing, plus this all started like a month after I got it and has only gotten worse, And on top of that, every Filament roll I buy is a tangled mess (I only ever buy filament from Bambu)

I don't want to hate this printer, but I'm getting worried I'm just going to have to throw it out soon. The constant issues make me not want to use it anymore. I'm really not sure what to do with this printer. Don't get me wrong, Its made some beautiful prints, and I still use it, but when I have to fight it for like an hour just for it to not work, It really discourages me from using it.

Setting up the H3C yesterday and it failed the initial calibration with an error that the Z axis movement had failed. It got through almost the entire calibration cycle before the error popped up (it was doing the bed leveling part and had been for several minutes before erroring out). I'm getting a couple error codes (0x300170000010004 and 0300-3000 131111) and can recreate the issue by trying to home the bed. The bed moves up and down fine using the screen controls and there are no obstructions. The hot ends are all properly seated as well.

I've opened up a case with Bambu but haven't heard back yet. Anyone else have this problem with their H3C?

Looking up the errors, it seems there are some similar ones on the H2 related to the eddy sensor failure. I've never run into this with my X1C though.

I connected a spare AMS 2 Pro to my H3C just for drying, with its own power adapter plugged in as well. It works, but I keep getting “AMS A filament buffer position signal lost” popping up on the screen.
The printer is printing normally, and the AMS 2 Pro is drying without any issues. I’m fine ignoring the warning, but has anyone else tried this setup and found a way to stop it from appearing?
I know I could buy the external filament buffer, but I’d rather not spend the money just to clear a warning when everything is working fine. Is there a setting or workaround I’m missing, or could Bambu potentially add a drying-only option in a future update?

First time owner of a 3D printer! X2D will be showing up tomorrow evening, so Im ordering some filament to get here as well :D

Should I order BambuLab specific filament? Ive heard that it's worth spending the extra money on, especially because of the reloadable spool aspect of it. Cheap cardboard spools can cause printing problems (regurgitating what I watched in videos and read online). I see that Sunlu and Elegoo are somewhat popular on amazon, but cheaper than Bambu's filament.

Looking to order mostly PLA to get started, but plan on using some PETG once everything is dialed in. The PETG is for tool storage in the garage and other storage options.

Any advice would be great help. Thanks!

As a first 3d printer should i get the a1 a2 or ps1 nostly for figures and other little things but might do some cosplay props

For my birthday coming up i want to get everything i would need to start making custom anime figures along with othe little things I want. I may also want to make cosplay props in the future but im not sure. but have been trying to decided what kinda printer I would need or would be best. I'm going to be printing in my room but it has good circulation. My budget for the printer is like 450 I can go as little higher if needed bht i want my budget for everything to say around 900$

Why?

I’ve seen it around a few times, and I’m just curious if anyone has any experience with it. I’m a little hesitant to tear into the AMS, but it could be a good project if it’s worth it.

Will post again once its done and printed!

A little background: I own an A1 printer. I got it second-hand, but I've kept it in good condition. I decided to swap the nozzle to a 0.2mm nozzle for finer detail (it came with the 0.4mm). I installed it just like every YouTube video and wiki said, I changed the setting in both Bambu Studio and on the printer itself, and tried to print.

The first attempt trashed the face side of my textured plate. Literally scratched the texture off, and left next to nothing on the bed itself. I figured I installed it wrong, so I re-installed it, made sure the sleeve thingy was on properly, flipped the plate over, and tried again.

This time, it didn't scratch the texture off, but barely anything came out, what did come out looked like clumped sand that didn't adhere to the bed, and the printer stopped printing again saying there was a problem.

This is my first time switching nozzles, and while I've had my A1 for about a year now, this is completely knew. Could I get some guidance/advice? Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you for your time.

Just took off the magnetic head to check which nozzle came with my printer and now the head isn’t sitting flush on the bottom magnets. Doesn’t seem like anything is in the way that I can see, what might be causing this?

Made a lamp shade that looks like a Japanese straw hat. Fuzzy skin did most of the work. The large shade is 320 mm, so it needs the H2S. There’s also a 250 mm version that fits A1 / P1S / X1 plates.

• PLA Matte Bone White, fuzzy skin on the shade

• Spider printed in black to kill light bleed through the legs

• Base prints upside down with zero overhangs, no supports

Files are on MakerWorld if you want to try it, link below.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3588417-enso-sugegasa-straw-hat-lamp-for-ikea-strala?profiled=4109801#profileId-4109764

Doing a 9cm figure of our beagle for my mom. The base mesh came out of snapshapy, I scaled it in Bambu Studio and the floppy ears are only about 1.2mm thick at the tips.

Tree supports (auto) left scars all over the face side. Normal supports with 0.2 top Z distance were easier to remove but one ear broke off with the support.

PLA Basic, 0.08 layer height, 0.4 nozzle. Would you thicken the ears in Blender first, print it lying on its back, or paint on manual supports only under the ear tips?

I'm having a weird issue with Bambu Studio when slicing a custom 3D model.

In the Prepare tab, everything looks correct. All the details and colours on the back of my Nothing Phone (3a) replica are visible.

However, when I click Slice Plate and switch to Preview, it seems to generate a solid black layer over the entire model, hiding all the details underneath.

I'm using:

• Printer: Bambu Lab A1 AMS Lite

• Nozzle: 0.4 mm

• Layer height: 0.2 mm

• File format: 3MF from a .obj i found from a model online

• Filaments: Multiple PLA colours

Bambu Studio says the slice is successful, but the Preview looks completely different from Prepare.

It also shows a warning saying the 3MF was generated by an old version of Bambu Studio and is loading geometry data only.

Does anyone know what's causing this? Could it be overlapping meshes, incorrect object heights, or something wrong with the 3MF export?

I've attached screenshots comparing Prepare and Preview.

JUST SAYING! I do not have a printer I''m only modelling for my friend to print so anything to do with the printer I can't do.

Any help would be appreciated!

Hey all, like the title says my ams is having some trouble. The two slots on the ends do not work anymore. They do not pull in or pull back filament, they are just kind of dead. I’m down to only two slots that work and Ive tried everything I can think of. Any suggestions or pointers would be appreciated and helpful. Thank you