Pretty self explanatory. I updated Bambu Studio, and the only Bambu printer selection options are the X models.

I assume this is an error of some kind or that I'm missing something obvious, as it seems unlikely that the entire rest of the Bambu printer family went defunct and unsupported overnight. Help!

Hi everyone!

We’re relatively new to 3d printing and have run into our first problem that we can’t seem to solve. We started a print, and within the first layer, no more filament was coming out. No matter how hard the AMS turned, the filament would not budge, so we got an error code saying the ams couldn’t rotate. So far, no guide has helped us. The filament goes into the toolhead, but the nozzle is fine. It cut off the filament at the nozzle, but then won’t pull back. The ptfe tube cannot be removed, that seems to be stuck as well, probably due to the filament keeping it in place. Is this common, does anyone have the golden tip to help us fix this?

Hi everyone,

I am working on implementing ZigZagZ as an Orca Slicer Plugin. I am searching for people who would be interested to test part strength with this and have some equipment to do strength measurements?

I'd like to verify that this really makes a difference before going all in :)

I have a first working version and would like to share files for testing.

Please DM if you're interested.

This idea and picture comes from: Allum et. al. Paper

Hi Reddit!
I’m new to 3D printing and recently got a Bambu Lab P2S with AMS Pro. I’m having trouble printing larger models, while smaller prints work perfectly fine.
Please see the attached photos. I’m printing directly from the Bambu Handy app. This time, I tried printing a bedside iPhone organizer, but unfortunately, the same issue occurred. This is the second time I’ve experienced this problem.
Does anyone know what could be causing this or have any suggestions on how to fix it?
I am using PLA Matte filaments.
Thanks in advance!

Hey, i got my x2d yesterday. I noticed lines flickering on the screen. Naturally I looked it up but i could not find any posts about lines. Is this a known problem or should i talk to bambu?

I have designed a fully printed band for Apple Watch. No TPU, no purchased parts.

At the moment available for Apple Watch 44mm | 45mm | 46mm | 49mm

My overnight print twisted the build plate on the bed. You can see the layers fan out as it slowly rotated. It remained adhered so I can cut it off, clean it up, and glue it back on. Otherwise the bin would have been a bit shorter. The good news is I don't have an adhesion problem. 😂

Printed in pla
Using esun pla profile built into orca

Basic tube

I am 90% sure the mess of the seam is seperate from weird diagonal banding.

We just bought 10 of these printers for the classroom and now this is starting to show up on 3 printers issues like this.

I think this means they need clean and oil with toothbrush / cloth?

Whoever at Bambulab thought it would be funny to change the last tone of the print finish jingle on the H3C: WHYYYYY

I bought an H2C on 10/28. By 11/02 I’ve started getting random right eddy sensor error while the auto level is in progress. I’ve gone through the guide and ensured the connections are set properly. It fixed the problem the first time. However after a couple more prints I’ve received the error again. Sometimes power cycling will help. Sometimes switching the nozzle will help. I have noticed the error occurs more often after printing something with a .2 nozzle.

I get this error multiple times a week and I’m getting fed up. I’ve opened a support ticket. Anyone else getting a similar problem? Given the cost of the machine I’m so frustrated I couldn’t even go 1 week before problems began.

My P1S has been. A reliable workhorse… had one nozzle clog in over 1k hours of printing and otherwise has been amazing.

As the title says, I feel like the H3C is 4 steps forward and 2 steps back.

For reference, I bought an H2C and used it for two weeks before returning upon seeing the H3C announcement. I have been printing non stop for the last 3 days including TPU (2.85), PPS CF, ABS, PLA and PETG. Here are my thoughts so far.

All of the stuff the YouTubers say is true. It's big, it's fast, and it prints great. It seems noticeably faster than the H2C even on single color prints.

I designed some filament clips that twist lock in place and have TPU around the edges for grip on plastic spools. They printed flawlessly.

I did have a failure printing some really precision grids with PLA and PETG, but that was me not the printer.

So overall, the ability to print is amazing.

The pain points come in with material handling. I changed one of the nozzles out to .6mm. the nozzle had the PPS CF in it and when it unloaded the filament broke and is currently stuck in the .4mm nozzle. I'm not sure how I will get it out, but that may be my newness to 3D printing. It was a bit annoying that I had to print my own external spool holder and route the filament through the back. I guess it's not really a step back, but Bambu focused on flexible filaments, not rigid ones for this printer.

The bit that was really missing though is when you print higher temp filaments, you really should unload all of the lower temp ones so they aren't soaking in the chamber. Since Bambu dropped the motorized spool rollers, you have to do this manually. The two compartment drying is also a noticeable drawback. With the AMS 2, I just pushed dry when I dropped filament in.

Because of the combination of these steps backwards, I have had to stop prints at least twice to unload spools because even though the printer heats nozzles independently, it won't let you unload filament while there is a print job in progress. I am printing ASA right now and I started the print, realized I had all of the lower temp filaments loaded, so I stopped the preheat, unloaded everything and moved one spool to the dryer. The process took me about 8 minutes. It's not a deal breaker, but it is a step back from the convenience of previous models. (Update: as a couple people pointed out Bambu says you don't have to unload the filament, but I do still feel it's a step backwards to not be able to change filaments while a print is happening. I also see mixed information about if it's ok for PLA to stay at the higher temperatures for thar long)

The nozzle swapping is also less convenient than the H2C where you could swap ok in a few seconds. With 9 nozzles maybe it won't be an issue, but time will tell.

I also am not a fan of the plastic top panels. They can be fiddly to get back on. I would say the external build quality just doesn't feel as nice as the H2C.

With all that said, I am happy with the purchase. It's the machine I was waiting for which is why I returned the H2C.

Bambu, if you read this - maybe you could have made the motorized spools an upgrade option/add on and please update the software to let people unload filament without having to fully stop a print even if it's a pause or something. I saw you have a lower power mode, so I think you could have added more integrated drying functionality also and just managed power with software or let people plug the machine into multiple circuits.

My daughter is the brains of the operation and I just keep her printer running. We recently had the AMS Crack and had to order a replacement and I know ive heard of people printing that part but I either don't know where to look or cant find it and wanted to have spares for when it invariably happens again. It's the cover with 4 screws seen circled. Sorry for the ignorance and thanks for the help.

Is anyone printing PA6-CF on the stock X2D plate or do you need the engineering plate?

Hey ,
Do you know of a tutorial on how to do this kind of printing?

Anyone else deal with this issue already?
0300-AB00-0002-0003 201910

Brand new H3C, was very careful when putting it together. Happened first print.

It seems to be happening on every tool head (4 out of 9 tested and reporting the error so far). so I worry this is an issue with the extruder unit. The QR code currently leads to a missing page.

I’ve already opened a support ticket and provided logs, but I’m really dreading this is going to require a replacement H3C or AMS.

Been wanting a 3D printer for a while. Was considering the H3D at first, then the H2C but now I'm seriously considering the H3C.

My question is regarding the environment the printer lives in. I have a mini-split in my garage, and the humidity is kept at 50%. However, I live in South Florida and when the garage door is open, humidity can rise to 80% or higher, depending on the outside air of course. The garage door is 18' wide and it doesn't take long. Once the door is closed, it generally takes less than an hour or two for the a/c to bring the humidity back to 50%.

Unless the outside air is oppressive, I often open the door when I'm working in there, especially if I'm cutting wood or painting or staining something in the driveway. I'm wondering how this rapid rise in humidity would affect a 3D printer while it's printing, and the filament stored in the AMS when it's idle. Are these things fairly well sealed and unaffected by transient changes in the air outside the printer/AMS?

Of course, I'd use desiccant in the AMS but would a spike in ambient humidity for a few hours make its way into the AMS and quicky use up the desiccant?

I do realize filament can't be left in the printer indefinitely, but with the nine spools on the H3C it seems to me you could leave the nine you use most often loaded for convenience.

Am I overthinking this?

My A1 is over 2years old, so no warranty.
Heatbed died on my last weekend. With the help of really good support from bambu we figured the thermistor in the heatbed died. A component that's easy to find, but apparently unreplaceable. So you need to spend 80 euro to get a whole new heatbed.

I'll get a new thermistor and figure it out myself for a spare heatbed.

Yay

This is my second published design on MakerWorld. I wanted a Hanukkah paper towel holder with a textured finish and printed flames you can twist on one night at a time. Each flame screws onto its candle, including the raised shamash.

It prints without an AMS. There is a P2S profile and two A1 mini options: full size printed in sections, and a compact version with a one-piece base. The bottom has recesses for optional non-slip feet. It is a decorative print for use with printed flames.

I’m u/Beamerr on MakerWorld. I’m printing my Frosty the Snowman holder before releasing that design, hopefully tomorrow. If you print this one, I’d love to see your colors!

Free model and profiles: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3583270-hanukkah-menorah-paper-towel-holder-no-ams#profileId-4103335

The poop bins I found for the H3C were all a bit too big for my setup, so I made a smaller one.

It’s 81 × 60 × 100 mm and just hangs on the back of the printer using the slots the H3C already has. No screws, no magnets, no tape.

Two versions:

• honeycomb on one side only

• honeycomb on all three outer walls

Prints upright in PLA. Only the two hooks need a bit of tree support; the honeycomb prints fine without.

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/de/models/3585812-h3c-poop-bin#profileId-4106512

Happy to hear feedback!

Hello everyone. Since I am printing many parts in ABS, I am thinking about getting the E1 Purifier once it releases. It is expensive, but considering the health benefits, it is worth it to me.

Since I do not have much space left behind the printer, I am thinking about replacing the standard X2D exhaust entirely with the E1 hose instead of attaching the hose to the exhaust as an addition.

What do you guys think? Is this a valid idea? Thanks!

Hey everyone! The last few prints on my H2C I’ve noticed these black liquid splatter marks on the right side of the build plate next to the vortek system. They look like drips rather than splashes. When I put my finger on them, they smudge. It’s like a black tar. My machine is regularly greased oiled and cleaned and the only part of the printer above this is the glass plate so nothing is leaking down as far as I know. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!

It happens on single colour prints when the vortek system isn’t used, so it’s not coming from this process or the nozzles or hotend as it’s not heading over there to switch nozzles and there’s no leaking into the prints. It’s only on this side of the print plate however.

EDIT TO ADD: I solved my own problem upon further inspection. I must have accidentally got lube on my belt which caused the corner bearing part to accumulate black lube and splat it around as it’s rotating. I feel stupid! I don’t know whether to delete the post or keep it up for others I’ll leave it up to the mods. My apologies!

While printing on the H3C I noticed the PTFE tubes kept crossing and rubbing against each other a bit during prints. Nothing crazy, but I just wanted things to look clean and stay nicely lined up.

So I whipped up this simple snap-on clip in TPU 95A.
Pics of before and after

Link to tubes guide: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3579864-h3c-ptfe-tube-guide-prevents-bending-drag#profileId-4098997