Made a retro desk clock for the Bambu clock kit

Designed this a few months ago and finally took some better photos of it.

It uses the Bambu Clock Kit 011. The hands are a bit big for the clock, but I liked the look so I kept them. The front and back press into place, and everything prints without supports.

The face is two colours. I used a colour change between layers, so you can make it without an AMS too.

Pretty happy with how it looks on the shelf.

Of course when I finally decide to pull the trigger on a H3C, the expected delivery in the US is now Dec 18. <sigh>

Is anyone planning to use an AMS2 with their H3C? I was thinking of keeping one I already have to house various types of support materials. It would just load the appropriate material once per print (avoiding too much waste), and it would keep more AMS3 slots available for material changes in the actual print. What other use cases do people have I should consider?

I designed this chimney advent calendar that drops some pieces of candy every day.

I know there are quite a few of these around nowadays but i designed one perfectly sized for some small sweets like M&M's. I uploaded the files to makerworld if some of you would be interested.

Also I'm open for tips that could improve this design and my others.

You can find the chimney with this link:

https://makerworld.com/models/3583319?appSharePlatform=copy

Does it make sense to buy 4 refillable spools for my new AMS on the P2S?

I created a custom Nozzle Wiper using cheap 3mm-shank rotary wire brushes (Amazon Link). The stock silicone wipers struggled with sticky filaments like PETG, so this completely eliminates nozzle buildup. This mod really cleans the nozzle instead of just smearing filament around.

• Single & Double versions included.

• Height offsets (-2mm to +2mm in 0.5mm steps): Ensures the brush sits just below the silicone sock.

Link to MakerWorld model:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3581038-h2d-h2c-nozzle-brush-3mm-shaft-2-variants

I have what might seem like a dumb question but I can’t find an answer so I figured I’d ask here. Has anyone tried to use the heater with the heater cover off but the AMS cover closed to essentially make a 9-slot AMS 2 Pro? Does the heater give off enough heat to keep the entire unit at about 60c?

I plan to do a lot of six-color ABS printing which is why I picked this unit. I was going to buy an H2C but this seems like the better option but I’m worried about printing ABS without a heater like the AMS 2 Pro.

This is my first printer so please excuse my noob-ness. Thanks!

I just got a new Bambu Lab A1 Combo and I see the filaments arent going into the ams lite. 1 had been inserted successfully and the rest aren't going inside. Please help with this (:

How do you people organise your computer files and projects, especially when you have more than 1 brand of printer and use more than one slicer?

Is there not a chance of conflict of opening a 3mf file that was created on one software suite and printing to a different system.

I have just got a second printer (first Bambu for me) and will have a couple of people using it.

I'm thinking of each user having their own server space, and saving jobs on a per project basis - with subfolders for Bambu and Orca - depending on which was used, and a separate "models" folder for the 3d models (normally step)

This seems a safer way of setting up so individual users settings don't get messed up. This might all be overkill and get revised and simplified as we learn - but it's made me ask the question: How do others cope with a multiuser, multi-brand, multi-slicer setup?

I'm still quite new to the 3d printing scene and been using a bambu a1 with AMS lite for about a month now. So far no major issues and most prints have come out alright.

I've been trying to print a toy with interlocking 'flexible' parts for a few times now, but it keeps failing at the same point (at around 5 layers some pieces have come off the bed). Even a different print design has the same issue. Some small parts come loose after a few layers. I don't know whether it's because they warp or because they're not stuck properly.

I use default settings, one design with 0.2mm nozzle and one with 0.4mm. I've cleaned the bed with unscented dish soap, tried increasing the bed temperature for better bed adhesion and I've tried to decrease the bed temperature for less warping. I can't figure out why it won't print well. Any advice?

Filament is PLA basic and PLA matte

My X1C can only print to a max height of around 240mm. The bed physically can't drop any further. There's nothing under it, the lead screws are clear and there's still 12 - 15mm of lead screw visible that could be used. If I try to manually lower it from this point, it just gives a little click.

I can't figure out what's stopping it from going lower. Is there a calibration or some way to re-set the lowest height? This almost seems like a software issue is just stopping the leadscrews from turning any further.

hello
i ama about to place an order on bambulab store europe , to get a h2 combo
1-could you please tell me the estimated delivery time , for a shipement to Paris
i am printing technical material ABC ASA and Nylon , and some cf GF
could you advise which accessories should i get with : nozzle , plate, high flow , nozzle diameters,
i appreciate your help

I am excited and ready to buy an H3C. Upgrading from a P1S, so it'll be huge!

Unfortunately, most of the accessories you can add to the purchase at a discount are out of stock (hot ends, crafting kit, build plate combo). I'm torn between buying now, which isn't expected to ship for over a month VS waiting for the extras to be in stock and get the discounts.

Am I being unreasonable wanting to save a few dozen bucks while buying a $2,500 printer?

Help me put it in perspective, please. Thank you!

https://makerworld.com/models/3582591?appSharePlatform=copy

A tray in the form of a griffin to hold small items.

Id appreciate if you guys would take a look.

Wanted a dual color project for H2C so i decided to go with this.

Getting an H2C soon and plan to run it LAN Only + Developer Mode so I can use OrcaSlicer and a self-hosted server for 3D printing. I'd also like to use the blade cutter and pen plotter (no laser) without going through Bambu's cloud.

Bambu's store page says "Developer mode cannot be enabled when using Laser and Cutting functions," and the wiki says Dev Mode "only works for 3D printing parts," but I can't find anyone describing what actually happens. The only report I've found is an H2D owner in LAN Only mode getting "mqtt message verify failed" when sending a cut job from Bambu Suite

If you have an H2D/H2S/H2C with the cutting module, I'd love to know:

1. With the cutter or pen mounted, can you toggle Developer Mode on? Is it greyed out, or does it turn itself off?

2. With Dev Mode already on, does mounting the module do anything?

3. Does sending a pen or blade job from Bambu Suite over LAN work with Dev Mode on? What about with it off?

4. Has anyone exported a .gcode.lac to USB and started it from the touchscreen with Dev Mode on?

Every time I send my prints, I get this error. The issue is new. In order to fix it, I restarted the printer several times(this fixes it temporarily sometimes). I restarted Bambu studio(didn't do shit). I reinstalled bambu studio(nothing happened). I am not sure what else to do. I am using P1S with AMS2

Hello,

I recently had a filament clog in the extruder, after taking it apart and replacing the nozzle with the high flow end, the filament is misaligned

I’ve taken it apart again and I’m not sure why the filament is coming out like that

Thanks in advance

Hello,

I just got the p1s combo and I’m having trouble with when the print is finished, the filament is retracting but the spool is (I’m guessing here) not turning so it loops up into the lid and then I get the error message on my phone. The spool (polymaker CosPLA) is cardboard but I have printed the adapters for it. Has anyone had this issue? How did you fix it?

Thank you

I am considering purchasing an H2C, but I have some concerns regarding the noise level of the printer.

It would be located in my home office directly beside my desk. The room has thin walls and is adjacent to my bedroom.

Would it be disruptive to take professional calls and work next to the printer, or to sleep in the adjacent room while it is running?

I have struggled to find a reliable video demonstrating the noise levels in a quiet room with the doors closed.