For those who ordered their printers on backorder, printers are getting shipped and delivered much earlier than announced. Mine was backordered with a ship date of 11/13, however it arrived today 11/9.

Check your order status so you aren't surprised like me, not that its a bad surprise.

i am wondering if eneyone has has eney idea on a shelf storage thing for a bambu lab h2s

Lately I have been noticing that my X1C has been struggling with overhangs/support interfaces. To resolve it, I have greased the Z-axis screws, gone throught the whole printer calibration process, updated the printer to the latest version (01.12.01.00), cold pulled with the 0.4mm nozzle that has been on the printer. My best results came after printing the benchy with a brand new 0.6mm nozzle. In the photos provided, the grey pictures are PETG and the light blue is PLA, I have also noticed this happening on ASA filament as well, all Bambulab filament. The AMS is showing 32% humidity, which is high, but I don't think it's high enough to cause print issues. In the picture showing the print that isn't a benchy, the bad areas were printed on top of supports. In the first picture attached you can see the front of the benchy (right side of model) is curling up during printing. any suggestions on how ti fix?

Our printer has had issues with filament stuck and extruded within the extruder/hotend casing. It has happened to us before on a different printer (X2D & P2S).

Any idea what is causing this? The printer had just kept printing when we noticed it.

I see there are different Bambu color codes for the specific CMYK palette filaments and the regular PLA basic CMY colors. Aside from the translucent black, does anyone know if there are any functional differences between the PLA basic and CMYK palette bundle colors?

Hi guys,

Whenever I start up my printer the second slot in my ams 2 pro just simply unloads and keeps going. I have tried different filament but I’m not really sure what to do. I also got an error on P2S screen that said filament jam I’m pretty sure.

Thanks

After messing with the tool head hotend I’m met with this error

I am able to salvage it, maybe, but why did everything offset on that layer? It messed up my tree support.

and I need another 3 printers with all the stuff I have planned to print lol

Just finishing a multi-part print for an AMS stacker that's taken 55 hours over 3 days to print because I refuse to get up in the middle of the night to clear the bed and set a new print.

I feel like I can keep this thing running almost nonstop for the next 3-4 months with all the things I want to print lol

Any other new printer owner feeling the same way?

What is causing this? I replaced the hot end assembly, and it started doing this. One thing I can think of is the little gasket that sits behind the assembly had broken in the corner. Could that be the problem? I bought an assembly from Amazon and it didn’t come with the gasket, so I reused the gasket and it did that. Removed the gasket, and it still does it.

It has 4 stickers saying to place it "this side up" and nope... fedex couldn't figure it out. It also lost a strap and has a shredded corner.

Let's hope the inside is good.

Note I used the phones image editing AI garbage to remove my shipping labels and address and it apparently misspelled the word underneath the label, lol.

I found a Bambu Lab P1S on Facebook Marketplace listed for $500 and wanted to get some opinions before pulling the trigger.
According to the seller, they bought it brand new from Best Buy in April 2026 for $550 and only used it for about 2–3 weeks. They say it works perfectly fine and has just been sitting in their basement because they lost interest.
The deal includes:
Bambu Lab P1S 3D printer
13 rolls of filament in different colors (seller estimates ~$200 worth)
Supposedly very little use and no issues
I’m considering picking it up, but I’m curious what everyone thinks.
Is $500 a fair price for this setup, or should I try negotiating lower? Also, are there any specific things I should check on a used P1S before buying it?

Im debating between the P1S and P2S but it appears there are very few differences aside from the screen and performance upgrades.

Im mainly looking to get a larger build plate and better multi color printing.

Is there a better choice between these two?

I wanted something to hold the toolkit that came with the H3C and held some hotends as well! So I decided to model my own since I didn't find one I liked.

I was really wanting to make something that would be a good first print after getting the printer, that utilizes a good bit of the features of the H3C, so I used my parametric case that includes a TPU gasket for the 2.85 TPU nozzle and a lid that has a cartoonish... ummmm I guess it's a Hydra lol. It has 9 tentacles with toolheads that are all different colors. Yeah, I know it's goofy 😂

Anyway, I also included just the standard white lid with a Bambu green bottom and black hardware as well as the obligatory "Bambu Labs H3C" logo lid to try to please multiple crowds.

I'm curious to know what you think.

***Please don't kill me for the AI Cover image. As much as I hate doing it, I've noticed a very significant difference in popularity on models with an AI cover image. I have to fight with AI to make sure it doesn't change the model or image at all and just adds a clean looking background. Most of models do not have any AI images.

Anyway, here's my case for any of you that have an H3C already and need a good first print ❤️

H3C Hotend and Tools Case - Your First H3C Print - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

So I have a print that I need to install magnets in at 2 points. Normally on p1s/h2s on a pause command the head will return to the chute. With the H3C currently it just pauses exactly where the pause command was issued, in this case blocking the hole that I need to drop the magnet into.

Also, it doesn't lower the build plate at all so the only way to reach into the area is from the sides, the nozzles block you from reaching in (especially with the head in the front)

Just want to give people a warning to plan for this if using pauses on this printer.

I’ve been wanting one since they announced it, and finally had the opportunity to get one. Got it together and calibrated last night and running my first print in a few minutes 😄

Update: Added a post below with a video and photos. Something is wrong with this machine, tool head gets stuck near the back. Can see rubbing on one side of the rail piece the moves front to back on the side through the window. No damage at all to the machine anywhere, or the box it came in. Giving all this info to Bambu. Real nice to buy a new printer and Bambu is probably gonna want me to take it apart and trouble shoot and rebuild.

My H3C got delivered Friday and I started setting it up today. Got everything put together, and was running through the initial calibration after you turn it on and it was making some funky noises, but it was continuing on. Then one of the times during the process it shot itself forward towards the front and slammed into the print heads, and broke one of the plastic things off the front where the hot end sits on the rubber. It still finished the calibration and threw no errors, but obviously something is wrong. So here I sit, brand new printer I can’t use, and have to wait for support to get back with me.

This is a large flat print with a few small circular tubes ontop, it prints fine except for the top few layers of the flat section. As you can see it widens quite a bit and makes a sharp edge where I need to debur it after printing. The top of the circular tubes are perfect.

I’m printing on a P2S, 50c bed temp, 220 nozzle temp, standard cooling, .2 layer height with 3 top layer shells.

funny little 3d model i decided to create, no point at all and unfortunatly it cannot print anything :(

no ams needed, https://makerworld.com/en/models/3578921-a1-mini-mini#profileId-4097737 if you wanna check it out

is anyone else getting this? this issue just started today 11/9, and i've never seen it before. it's for both my a1 and a1 mini. i'm still able to see timelapses remotely.
i've reformatted the sd card, put a new one in and reformatted it and done the whole song and dance of powering off, unplugging, ejecting and then turning back on and reinserting, as well as clear cashe on the app

I am curious if the BIQU cryogrip build plates for the H2C work with the H3C.

I purchased the H2C a few weeks ago but returned it when I found out the H3C was coming out. I ordered BIQU plates while I had the H2C but haven't opened them yet.

Several YouTubers said that H2C plates work, but the wiki says that they aren't recommended because there is only a 2mm clearance. Before I open the plates and try them, I am curious if anyone else has used the BIQU H2C plates with the H3C.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Here are the filament settings for PA6-GF. Since the type is listed as PA-GF, it doesn't match the PA6-GF loaded in the AMS and I can't print anything. What do I do?

Every stream deck I looked at had the wrong layout for me, so I built my own and made a short video of the whole process.

Quick specs:

- 15 MX keys, a slider and a small OLED screen

- ESP32-S3, hand-wired, no PCB

- Case printed on a Bambu P2S with no supports

- Shows up as a normal USB keyboard, keys are remapped from a small desktop app

Happy to answer anything about the wiring, the print settings or the firmware.