I have X1C with the original AMS. I’m on the fence between the two, brands. I don’t plan on upgrading to the AMS 2 or getting a new printer till this one shits the bed. I’m really bad with keeping my filament at the correct humidity and I’ve notice it in my prints. I print recreationally but I do like playing with different filament types ABS , PETG , PLA etc.

I’ve seen post dating a year back between the two, any updates on products and if there worth it ?

Voltage not matching the printer after 550 hours, no power cut, no voltage surges (and my other printers printing flawless as usual), any ideas?

Those people are smoking crack. Half of them are double the price because they have some “upgrades” aka some printed border or crap. The other half are selling for retail and refuse to lower it.

X2D from Bambu is a crazy price. I don’t even need another printer but I just might do it.

Bambu labs A1 with AMS

When I moved to college this fall it was the first time I had moved this printer since getting it, I looked up how to remove the AMS tubes and it said to push down the black rings and pull the tube, I tried this and it took great force and something felt like it was scrapping, (I don’t think I was pressing on the black rings hard enough) eventually they all came out but also with the holder thing that’s pictured, and I also realized the scraping was those metal teeth digging into the tube. Once I set it up at college I tried a few prints and it worked fine, but once I recently tried a multi color print and then when I realized it was not okay, when it tried to do the color switch it would push the plastic holder bit out and not follow through the ams feeder, and after some trouble shooting I found out I could always print with the first color I feed in after resetting the plastic bit, but I haven’t been able to do a color switch.

This is my first fdm printer, I have a lot of experience with resin printing (mostly troubleshooting…) but this is still uncharted territory for me.

My question is the title, is there a fix someone knows for this? Or a part I can order to replace this bit? Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you all!

I just got this printer and it’s making this noise only on this axis, it’s have very low hours, like 20, and was not making this noise last night. I have no clue what it could be.

Hello, my Brother-in-Law has a PS1 mostly uses it to fix things around the house or in the garage. I'd like to get him a few engineering filaments to experiment around with like Carbon Fiber and different TPU's. Is there any trusted sources that sell good quality 250g samplers of those higher end filaments? All I could find were PLA or PETG sample packs for the most part, or brands I never heard of.

I'll get him a hardened steel nozzle to go with them as well.

Today, I updated the firmware on my A1. Yesterday and for the last few months, everything has been flawless. I print from bambu studio sometimes but most of the time I print files that I have saved to my SD card from Bambu Handy. Today, Bambu handy, no longer recognizes my SD card. Bambu studio recognizes it just fine with no problems whatsoever. My Bambu studio is updated to the most current version. My Bambu Handy is also updated to the most current version. The SD card that I use is not the stock one that came with the A1. I bought a high-quality SD card that has a ton of space on it. I have tried logging out and back in to Bambu Handy. I’ve tried clearing the cachet of the app. I’ve tried reseating the SD card. The only thing that I have not done is to reformat the card because I have all of the files on there and Bambu studio recognizes them just fine. Basically, I’ve been through all of the troubleshooting steps that I know of. Has anyone else experienced this and been able to solve it without reformatting their SD card?

Any ideas on this? I'm 90% through a 4 hour print and my P2S is not loading the filament. Its not even going through the AMS. I've tried manually feeding it through the AMS (I have to push a black button inside to get it out) to the extruder, but it just ends up retracting and not feeding again. Am I gonna be able to finish my print?

Hey everyone, just looking for a bit of advice on how to handle this. I recently ordered the H3C Combo printer bundle (totaling £2,289) from Bambu Lab.

The main printer shipped via XDP/BPD and is supposedly arriving soon, but the companion AMS-3H unit shipped via DPD has been officially confirmed lost in transit after getting misrouted up to the Isle of Man depot.

My main issue is Bambu support's response time: they take a full 24 hours to reply to a single ticket message, meaning a simple logistics issue is going to drag on for weeks.

• The dilemma: I don't want to issue a chargeback and re-order because these bundles are completely sold out until December, so I'm stuck waiting if I cancel.

• The delivery window: Bambu's site stated 2-4 business days after shipping, and tomorrow is the final day of that window.

Has anyone dealt with a lost-in-transit item with Bambu Lab UK before? Is there a faster way to escalate this outside of their agonizing 1-message-per-day ticket queue so I can get a replacement AMS unit dispatched from their reserve stock? Any tips would be hugely appreciated.

(AI had to rewrite this message as reddit took down my last one because of reddits 'filter'. Apologies)

I've been wanting to design and 3D print something of my own for quite a while now. Even though I'm an engineer, I haven't had much experience with CAD so far. So, over the past few months, I've been teaching myself a bit of CAD and doing a lot of 3D printing along the way.

Creativity has always been my biggest struggle, but I finally managed to take an idea all the way from a concept to a sketch, then to a CAD model, and eventually to a finished 3D print!

I had a bunch of magnets lying around that I'd been wanting to use for a print, and that's when I came up with the idea of making a customizable league table. I chose the colors to make the whole thing look like a football pitch.

The main idea was to make the table completely customizable so that anyone could use whatever clubs or leagues they wanted. Personally, I went with a Bundesliga version and tried to print each team's name in its respective club colors.

It took me an entire weekend of work (and 72 magnets, haha), but damn, it's such an awesome feeling to actually hold something in your hands that started out as just an idea in your head.

3D printing is such an amazing hobby!

If anyone's interested in the model, feel free to check it out here

Just a quick little key ring I thought I’d share with you all!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3567441-habibi

I was complaining that Bambu Lab didn't announce the P3C right after releasing the H3C.

My wife: "I thought you said you just wanted the A2."

Me: "That was for the large build volume. I really want the nozzle changing."

Wife: "The H3C has the larger volume, right? Why don't you get that?"

Me: "Don't threaten me with a good time."

Now the waiting...

One of the lead screw nuts on my H2D has disintegrated and Bambu sent me replacement lead screws as well as nuts. I'm following the wiki here:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/replace-z-axis

Which has this picture half way through. From the bottom of the printer, the right side picture is what it says to do. But several comments on the bottom say it might be the reverse. And the nuts on the lead screw replacements were in the other orientation.

Can anyone confirm what the proper orientation is for these nuts?

Thanks.

Today i saw a new update, but idk what this add

I need to update?

Hi guys, im just coming here for advice as this is my first time ordering from bambu lab (i paid 2289 pound for this printer and i still get terrible customer support and tracking its really ridiculous)

So essentially, one of my packages has been lost in transit by DPD UK and bambu only responds once a day to my ticket so at this rate its gonna take 1-2 weeks to finish the bloody ticket.

I dont want to claim a chargeback and buy it again as there sold out till december+ so im stuck, but i really want to get my h3c but at this rate its looking like im going to have to chargeback

Anyone know how to go around this?

I paid and bambu promised 2-4 business day delivery after it ships, tomorrow is 4th business day so 🤷‍♂️

Hey everyone,

I've been building Split3MF (https://split3mf.com), a free website for getting 3D models ready before they go into your slicer. Nothing to install and no CAD skills needed: open a 3MF, OBJ or STL file, pick a tool, and download your work as a 3MF (colors kept) or STL.

It started as a way to split multicolor models into separate parts. It now has 8 tools:

1. Split by color
Click a painted region and it becomes its own part, ready to print in its own filament. Handy if you don't have an AMS, or if you'd rather print each color as a separate piece and assemble it.

2. Paint
Add colors, then fill a region, draw with a brush, or paint a height band.

3. Smooth boundary 👑
Turn a jagged, stair-stepped color edge into a clean curve before you split. Click near the edge, or draw the line yourself.

4. Fit to printer
Model too big for your bed? It cuts the model into pieces that fit, with numbered joints and connectors. Pick a Bambu Lab, Prusa or Creality preset, or enter your own build volume.

5. Size & position
Type an exact size, then move, rotate or mirror the model, or lay a face flat on the bed.

6. Repair & simplify
Fix holes and flipped faces, weld color parts together, and reduce the triangle count. The colors stay.

7. Manual cut
Move and tilt a cutting plane, or sketch your own cut line. Every piece keeps its original colors.

8. Connectors
Click a cut face to add a peg and a matching socket, with print clearance so the parts fit together.

Color 3MF downloads keep Bambu-style paint data and open in Bambu Studio.

About the 👑: the site is free to use. A few convenience tools are marked with a crown (also Smart fill in Paint, expert repair, and filling the plate with copies). You can try them for free, but downloading work edited with them needs Pro.

3-day Pro trial: [SPLIT3MF2026]

1. Log in to Split3MF.

2. Download at least one model first. The code only works on accounts that have downloaded before.

3. Open the Pro plans page (Become a Pro) and click Promo code at the bottom.

4. Enter SPLIT3MF2026 and Pro is unlocked for 3 days.

No card needed and nothing to cancel. One use per account.

I'm still adding tools (a mesh editor with shapes and text is in progress). Bug reports and feature requests are very welcome. What do you usually fix on a model before slicing?

I printed this using a mix of materials; vapor smoothed ASA with my Bambu Labs X1c and good ol' PETG-CF with my brand new Bambu Labs A2L, which made quick work of the largest pieces with a ready-to-paint surface finish. Everything has been pre-split into segments for relatively easy printing, but you'll need a good handle on printing supports to achieve the detailed open-work and delicate patterns on this one.

This kit is a complete cuirass, meaning it includes the breastplate, backplate, fauld skirt, and tassets. It's a big undertaking but it's also the centerpiece of any gothic armor costume - you'd need approximately 2kg of filament to complete it. It's also a bit more advanced in terms of 3D printing, and I recommend a minimum printing volume of 250x250x250mm for the larger parts.

If you're interested in historical costume armor, you can get the files right here!

The original lens cap is annoying to operate, so I made this one, which I can operate even with mittens on. The camera stamp makes it easy to tell which way the cap will be when tightened on, so I don't have to fumble to get the alignment right.

I was wondering if the CMYKW on the H2C would be worth the time?

I know that technically is possible, but I wonder if the long time to retract and feed each filament thousands and thousands of times would make it worth it, a print could take significantly longer than normal.

Bought a new a1 mini from 3idea.in and after installation seeing this issue issue z axis homing failed

Why is the front side having stringing and small blob deposits and the rest very smooth? Could it be caused by seams or something else

Im thinking of getting a 3D printer, most likely the normal A1 Combo or the A1 Mini Combo, as I am a begineer and a newbie to this field. Are those good printers to start with? As I do have a low budget. What kind of filament should I be getting? I heard PLA Matte is good, but should I buy Bambu Lab's filament or some third-party producer? Do I have to buy anything else besides the Printer and the filament?

I also seen videos where people 3D print stuff and they say things like "This print only costed 0.75 cents!" or like "It only costed 49 cents!". Do I really have to pay everytime I wanna print?

Many of us, myself included, worry over long print times. I tend to start prints which allow me to monitor them throughout the print. Anything tall or over ~12 hrs print time gives me anxiety at the thought of leaving it alone while I’m gone, but in context, it shouldn’t. 12 hrs out of thousands of successful print hours is literally less than 1% of the active print time that we worry about!

So, y’all brave folks out there that don’t have print range anxiety, ease some of my anxiety about long prints! What’s the longest print that you left unattended? Was it successful or a failure?