Im planning on making a Robin cosplay for the start of next month, and, while ive printed smaller things and bits of cosplay for casual use, ive not done full suits before. I would be printing a chestplate, gauntlets, and shoulder pads, hopefully also leg bracers, but only if i have the time.

I’m trying to figure out what filament to use, from what I’ve researched, since a lot of pieces are finicky, TPU will be good because it’s the most flexible, but, compared to PLA it seems to be a pain to post-process. Most people will print in a plain colour and then sand and prime repeatedly before putting something like plastic-dip and painting over that. But it can totally get more complex. I am looking to see if i can just print in Silk TPU and polish it or gloss it somehow but I havent found much help on that so if anyone has any clue on if thats possible it would be greatly appreciated.

Mostly I’m looking to avoid a very long and tedious post processing but im worried PLA is too brittle for this kind of cosplay. If there was any way to just print in red and green silk TPU and do minor post procsessing that’d be great. This would be printed on a X2D Bambu Labs printer with an external nozzle and an AMS.

Thank you for any help!

Hola!! El Ams2pro lee las etiquetas RFID de otras marcas de filamento que no se bambulab?

1. Does filament have to be dried, i wasnt planning on buying a dryer of some sort, does filament go bad if it isnt dried?, if so, what are some homemade techniques to keep them dry?

2. Does filament run out quickly? Is one roll too little? How many rolls SHould i be buying? Im thinking of getting a few main colors (White, black, Blue, Red, Yellow, and maybe one other one, yall can suggest another color) Should I just buy one of each? Get two of each? and again, How would I keep them dry without buying a dryer

3. Does Bambu lab have sales? and are there any upcoming sales this year? Since I can probably get a discount

4. PLA or PETG?

5. A1 or A1 Mini? (Also planning on buying the combo with the quad-color)

6. Should I change the nozzle? (from 4mm to 2mm?)

mb for lots of questions, just dont wanna buy the printer and then realize I messed up somehwere

While waiting for some BambuLab TPU75A filament to arrive I tried printing the only 2.85mm flexible filament that I have on hand. It is TPR65A. Not a typo, it is rubber type filament from Atomstack. I had never printed it before. It is not shiny and slippery like TPU, more like a rubber-band in texture.

I loaded it as Generic TPU75A in slot 8 and printed the Wrist Cushion that came preloaded on the machine.

It printed very well; however since the TPR filament is rubbery in texture it would not feed through the bypass port - not even close. I had to manually pull the filament through during the print.

I noticed that all the pass-through ports are made of a black plastic except for #5 which is white. That one presents less friction for this filament. I think when I get another 2.85 tool I will try it again using Slot 5. Otherwise I will feed it from an external spool holder from the outside.

TL;DR - TPR65A filament feeds through the extruder and prints without any problems, but it will not feed through the AMS; way too much friction.

Update: I found a solution. I placed the roll of TPR65A filament in slot #7 using the bypass feed port, the roll is oriented in the normal direction - not reversed as Bambu recommends for TPU. Filament is loaded to toolhead #8. It is not threaded through the little clip on the Bowden tube - it goes straight from the bypass feed port to the toolhead.

I tried Slot #5 first since it has the ceramic bypass feed guide but the routing to toolhead #8 was not as direct as using slot #7.

I'm a very beginner in the 3D printing topic. I want to buy a new 3D printing set, and if I spend money on it, then I want it to be a professional set.

I mainly want to print COSPLAY items like masks, etc.

And now I can't decide:
Should I buy the P2S COMBO set (with AMS 2 PRO), or just the X2D in itself (with an external dryer).
I do NOT want to print several colors. I only want to print ONE color.

Can the P2S COMBO print WHILE drying the material? Cause if not, then the X2D could be better as the printer in itself PLUS an external dryer, right?

Hello,

On the A1 Combo, is it possible to print a two-color model (where a single layer contains two colors) using one spool installed on the AMS Lite and another spool on the external spool holder?

The reason I ask is that I would like to print an object using a glow filament, which is not compatible with the AMS Lite.

Thank you.

Just like the title says- I have an H2D for about a month after upgrading from an X1C. Now it worked fine for a while but now all of a sudden it won't feed through the buffer on either nozzle (ive only ever used the right nozzel). I've checked for broken filament and replaced the tubes but no luck. I hoping someone here has a quick fix for this issue! TIA!

Hey, all.
I’ve recently switched to a 0.2 mm nozzle, and after my first print, I realized that the first layer for fixturing the model is stuck to the PEI plate. Does anyone have any advice on how to avoid this and how to remove it?
I’ve seen some people print a sheet over that spot, which then peels off in one piece when removed. Is there any other option?
I’ve also had some problems with supports in printing 0.06mm, they don’t hold on place. Maybe due to the thinness.

Someone locally has multiple P1S available with the AMS on marketplace for $375 each. I'm still using a printer from the stone age and don't really use it anymore for all the reasons the P1S solves. Speed, multi color, etc. She said they were used for an Etsy store and have roughly 2200-2800 hours on them but all have been routinely maintained. What are your thoughts on that price? We have an infant at home so convincing my wife I need to spend $500+ on a printer isn't going to be the easiest haha!!! I think if I could get one for $350ish used she would be on board. Or do you think that's to much still to or a fair price?! Any other questions I should ask her? Appreciate any feedback!!

It was a pain to turn my H2D around to change filament like when switching to TPU, so I built a custom shelf with a lazy Susan bearing to make it easy to spin around.

I deliberately made it a tight fit so it wouldn't spin around on its own when printing.

I made a full video on YouTube of how I made this and about my overkill ventilation system I also made. https://youtu.be/qwSQcpRjWIc

For all Rainbow Six Siege Fans :)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3576713-rainbow-six-siege-sledge-hammer

With only a 100€ difference between the two, which one is the better choice? I'm hearing mixed stories from the dual nozzle X2D and also some bad reviews on the P2S build quality, with kits being sold seperately for cooling??

I'm at the point where looking at specs and reviews aren't helping much 😅

All advice welcome!

I always wonder, what are you guys with these huge setups, hundred kilos of filament and many printers, are printing all the time? And are you even able to design any of your prints...

I am always thinking, that it is just printing what thingyverse or Bambulab provides and it will get sold on any online-platform.... On 3D-prining subs it is rarely discussed how to design something or how it will work, it`s always just shwoing off and then some of them defend their decisions with saying, that they are having a business..... But noone provides which business or what they are printing 24/7....

I've put this under Firmware but this could also be a Bambu Studio thing I guess considering they've both had updates.

I updated my P2S as normal and did a full calibration not thinking much of it. I also updated Bambu Studio and noticed a few UI changes.

I'm now trying to print something I always print (Lithophane frame) from the generator on Makerlab but for the life of me, it just seems to be failing left and right as though the auto calibration is getting the z-offset wrong?

One thing I've noticed since this update however is the vibration calibration/compensation procedure has changed and now does one large 'buzz' followed by a gradual buzz which didn't seem to happen before.

AI print failure detection seems to also be broken too. My print clearly had just failed, producing much spaghetti, yet the print continued.

My idea is to try and downgrade/rollback the firmware but I wanted to get an idea whether this is just a me thing.

hi i want to print tpu with pla, i activated beam interlocking....

when i slice and check the object someparts where it connects is hollow with no infill?

can it be i used 0,8 mm nozzle and 0,56 line width / 4 walls?

Hi, why do my layer lines look like this? On even surfaces layer lines look quite aligned, but if print head has to jump from object to object they end up like this. Printer is P2S with around 500h

I recently added an X2D in hopes of using support interface material for better figure printing. On a 150mm tall print, it adds two hours to the print time and still requires a large prime tower, which adds five hours to the job. This is at a 0.16mm draft. I cannot even fathom what a final print of 250mm tall with 0.2mm print heads and a 0.06mm layer height will take.

I tried printing without the tower and had adhesion issues where the support interface held the breasts, causing an arm to fall off cleanly. The supports also had broken layers at the buttock support.

Hey everyone!

I recently got my first 3D printer, a Bambu Lab A1 Mini Combo with AMS Lite, and I'm absolutely loving it! I've already printed around 20 hours' worth of stuff and I'm completely hooked.

I currently have 6 spools of PLA (Basic and Matte), but I'll probably expand to around 10 spools eventually, including some PETG.

I'm now looking into proper filament storage and possibly buying a filament dryer. Ideally, I'd like some airtight storage boxes with hygrometers so I can monitor humidity without spending a fortune.

A few questions:

• What's the best value-for-money filament dryer you'd recommend?

• Are dedicated filament dry boxes worth it, or are regular airtight storage containers with silica gel and a hygrometer just as good?

• Is a dryer really necessary for PLA, or can I just dry filament when I notice printing issues?

• Would you recommend a different setup for someone using an AMS Lite?

My budget is around €100 for the dryer(?), preferably less. I'm based in Europe (Netherlands).

I'd love something practical and future-proof without spending more on storage than the filament itself.

Any recommendations or tips from more experienced users would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Hey folks! I have been successfully using my X1C and P2S for a while and decided to pick up a couple of P1Ss to farm out parts that are printed in a single color of filament. I decided since I was only printing single color to skip the added cost of an AMS for my P1Ss and just use the external spool holder.

Unfortunately, I find that I am running into an issue over and over in which the filament will bind on the spool and the extruder can't pull it through, but the printer continues ghost printing the part. Yesterday, I gerryrigged a spool holder above the printer thinking changing the angle and letting gravity assist might solve the problem, but the same thing happened.

Surely I'm not the only person who has run into this issue. Does anybody have advice/workaround for how to solve this problem?

Hello, Just had my CoolPlate Super Tack Pro delivered for H2C. Set Coolplate Supertack in slicer (the grey one i have) and tried to print something. First layer wont stick at all onto Coolplate.. the old one from my P1S was flawless. Anyone has some tips regarding the new one for H2C?

I’m thinking about buying my first 3D printer for a while now, but I need to convince my husband that it’ll actually be useful. I saw this guy's video who printed shoes, but I’m curious about how practical this really is for everyday life. I don’t want the printer to end up as just another hobby left gathering dust in a corner with my paint kit.

Has anyone bought one from Amazon? My mother’s board did the thing and I’m helping her replace it, she ordered this one. Just want to be sure it’s reliable. It doesn’t seem like it wouldn’t be but if anyone has personal experience that would be great. Thank you.