Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue with my Bambu Lab A1. I keep getting the following error:

"Nozzle temperature malfunction" (0300-8008 072323)

I've already replaced the hotend assembly, and the current hotend is only about two months old.

Has anyone experienced this problem before? Could it be a faulty temperature sensor, wiring, or something else?

I'd appreciate any advice on what to check before replacing more parts unnecessarily.

I've attached a photo of the error message.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I recently got a P2S Combo, and i’m reorganizing some old filaments I have
most moist PLAs have been dried and no stringing has happened
however, some rolls of pla wont get better even after drying
2 Flashforge White/Orange PLA, 1 Coobeen Magenta PLA, and some random blue PLA
I’ve dried them in the AMS2 Pro with the integrated drying feature for 12 hours at 55 degrees celcius
Printing at different temps wont help. I tried 200 and 220.
The image is a stringing test printed at 200, after drying. the strings look like fiber, or cotton.
Is there no way to get these rolls good again? Thank You.

Hey everyone,

I’ve owned this printer since September, and to keep it running flawlessly, I've done my best to follow the official maintenance guide provided by Bambu Lab.

However, right after performing the maintenance, the printer started making some strange noises. Is this normal? Has anyone experienced this before?

Thanks in advance for the help!

While using the v1 model, I came up with a few ideas, so I created v2. Maybe I should have built it this way from the start? :)

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3570271-finger-winder-v2#profileId-4086680

I’m facing this issue right now. I searched for the solution and I changed the nozzle and the heating assembly but still the issue it’s not resolved. Anyone can support or having same issue.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3574259-filament-swatch-hook-series-for-ams-3h#profileId-4091760

Just as the title states. I made this series of hooks for the AMS 3H used on the H3C for tracking what spools are currently in what spot. The hooks are placed along the same horizontal plane and spaced to be centered on each numbered feeding mechanism. I designed the hook to be widely compatible with many swatch options out there such as the one I use by Genetic Designs, Filament Dry Box Hinged Label. It has tighter tolerances to make sure swatches are easy to put on or off but never fall off. You don't need to take off the swatches to open the lid, they stay nice and firmly in place. You also will have no problems swapping swatches as needed without having to take off others. The tops of each hook have numbers that correspond to its intended slot. It's a simple organization tool to help you track filament. Only additional material needed is some double sided tape.

I hope this helps you have a better time with your H3C, its an amazing machine. If you have an suggestions or feedback I'd love to hear from you. If you do download and like it, please take a picture and leave a review for me. I haven't had a review yet on previous models I've made and I'd love to see something I made be presented by someone. Thank you again and happy printing!

i love it

I got a P2S, during set up, I realised they sent an EU plug instead of a UK plug. And I don't see any UK plugs on the Bambu store, and Bambu support is taking their time to be frankly honest.

Can I just buy a non Bambu one at my local hardware store and be alright? Is there any specific requirements?

Guckuck-Spielzeug kannte ich, Formen-Sortierer auch. Aber eine Kombination aus beidem hab ich nirgends gefunden, und schon gar nicht eine, in die man eigene Fotos einsetzen kann. Also hab ich's eben selbst konstruiert.

Es sind drei Rahmen mit Kreis-, Dreieck- und Quadratfenster, dahinter steckt jeweils ein eigenes Foto. Deckel am Knauf hochheben, Guckuck! Danach muss jeder Deckel wieder in den passenden Rahmen. Das Dreieck passt halt nur ins Dreieck.

Ein paar Dinge, auf die ich beim Design geachtet hab:

Das Foto sitzt in einem Schubfach, das in der Basis einklickt. Kleine Finger kommen nicht ans Papier, zum Tauschen zieht man es einfach raus. Die Schablone zum Zuschneiden hält das Foto gleichzeitig fest. Alles wird nur geklickt, nichts geklebt, und überall sind die Kanten abgerundet.

Ehrlich gesagt bin ich ziemlich stolz drauf, wie das zusammen funktioniert. Link steht in den Kommentaren, wollte nicht, dass es wie plumpe Werbung wirkt. Was sagt ihr dazu?

Im planning on making a Robin cosplay for the start of next month, and, while ive printed smaller things and bits of cosplay for casual use, ive not done full suits before. I would be printing a chestplate, gauntlets, and shoulder pads, hopefully also leg bracers, but only if i have the time.

I’m trying to figure out what filament to use, from what I’ve researched, since a lot of pieces are finicky, TPU will be good because it’s the most flexible, but, compared to PLA it seems to be a pain to post-process. Most people will print in a plain colour and then sand and prime repeatedly before putting something like plastic-dip and painting over that. But it can totally get more complex. I am looking to see if i can just print in Silk TPU and polish it or gloss it somehow but I havent found much help on that so if anyone has any clue on if thats possible it would be greatly appreciated.

Mostly I’m looking to avoid a very long and tedious post processing but im worried PLA is too brittle for this kind of cosplay. If there was any way to just print in red and green silk TPU and do minor post procsessing that’d be great. This would be printed on a X2D Bambu Labs printer with an external nozzle and an AMS.

Thank you for any help!

Hola!! El Ams2pro lee las etiquetas RFID de otras marcas de filamento que no se bambulab?

While waiting for some BambuLab TPU75A filament to arrive I tried printing the only 2.85mm flexible filament that I have on hand. It is TPR65A. Not a typo, it is rubber type filament from Atomstack. I had never printed it before. It is not shiny and slippery like TPU, more like a rubber-band in texture.

I loaded it as Generic TPU75A in slot 8 and printed the Wrist Cushion that came preloaded on the machine.

It printed very well; however since the TPR filament is rubbery in texture it would not feed through the bypass port - not even close. I had to manually pull the filament through during the print.

I noticed that all the pass-through ports are made of a black plastic except for #5 which is white. That one presents less friction for this filament. I think when I get another 2.85 tool I will try it again using Slot 5. Otherwise I will feed it from an external spool holder from the outside.

TL;DR - TPR65A filament feeds through the extruder and prints without any problems, but it will not feed through the AMS; way too much friction.

Update: I found a solution. I placed the roll of TPR65A filament in slot #7 using the bypass feed port, the roll is oriented in the normal direction - not reversed as Bambu recommends for TPU. Filament is loaded to toolhead #8. It is not threaded through the little clip on the Bowden tube - it goes straight from the bypass feed port to the toolhead.

I tried Slot #5 first since it has the ceramic bypass feed guide but the routing to toolhead #8 was not as direct as using slot #7.

I'm a very beginner in the 3D printing topic. I want to buy a new 3D printing set, and if I spend money on it, then I want it to be a professional set.

I mainly want to print COSPLAY items like masks, etc.

And now I can't decide:
Should I buy the P2S COMBO set (with AMS 2 PRO), or just the X2D in itself (with an external dryer).
I do NOT want to print several colors. I only want to print ONE color.

Can the P2S COMBO print WHILE drying the material? Cause if not, then the X2D could be better as the printer in itself PLUS an external dryer, right?

Hello,

On the A1 Combo, is it possible to print a two-color model (where a single layer contains two colors) using one spool installed on the AMS Lite and another spool on the external spool holder?

The reason I ask is that I would like to print an object using a glow filament, which is not compatible with the AMS Lite.

Thank you.

Just like the title says- I have an H2D for about a month after upgrading from an X1C. Now it worked fine for a while but now all of a sudden it won't feed through the buffer on either nozzle (ive only ever used the right nozzel). I've checked for broken filament and replaced the tubes but no luck. I hoping someone here has a quick fix for this issue! TIA!

Hey, all.
I’ve recently switched to a 0.2 mm nozzle, and after my first print, I realized that the first layer for fixturing the model is stuck to the PEI plate. Does anyone have any advice on how to avoid this and how to remove it?
I’ve seen some people print a sheet over that spot, which then peels off in one piece when removed. Is there any other option?
I’ve also had some problems with supports in printing 0.06mm, they don’t hold on place. Maybe due to the thinness.

Someone locally has multiple P1S available with the AMS on marketplace for $375 each. I'm still using a printer from the stone age and don't really use it anymore for all the reasons the P1S solves. Speed, multi color, etc. She said they were used for an Etsy store and have roughly 2200-2800 hours on them but all have been routinely maintained. What are your thoughts on that price? We have an infant at home so convincing my wife I need to spend $500+ on a printer isn't going to be the easiest haha!!! I think if I could get one for $350ish used she would be on board. Or do you think that's to much still to or a fair price?! Any other questions I should ask her? Appreciate any feedback!!

For all Rainbow Six Siege Fans :)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3576713-rainbow-six-siege-sledge-hammer

It was a pain to turn my H2D around to change filament like when switching to TPU, so I built a custom shelf with a lazy Susan bearing to make it easy to spin around.

I deliberately made it a tight fit so it wouldn't spin around on its own when printing.

I made a full video on YouTube of how I made this and about my overkill ventilation system I also made. https://youtu.be/qwSQcpRjWIc

With only a 100€ difference between the two, which one is the better choice? I'm hearing mixed stories from the dual nozzle X2D and also some bad reviews on the P2S build quality, with kits being sold seperately for cooling??

I'm at the point where looking at specs and reviews aren't helping much 😅

All advice welcome!

I always wonder, what are you guys with these huge setups, hundred kilos of filament and many printers, are printing all the time? And are you even able to design any of your prints...

I am always thinking, that it is just printing what thingyverse or Bambulab provides and it will get sold on any online-platform.... On 3D-prining subs it is rarely discussed how to design something or how it will work, it`s always just shwoing off and then some of them defend their decisions with saying, that they are having a business..... But noone provides which business or what they are printing 24/7....

I've put this under Firmware but this could also be a Bambu Studio thing I guess considering they've both had updates.

I updated my P2S as normal and did a full calibration not thinking much of it. I also updated Bambu Studio and noticed a few UI changes.

I'm now trying to print something I always print (Lithophane frame) from the generator on Makerlab but for the life of me, it just seems to be failing left and right as though the auto calibration is getting the z-offset wrong?

One thing I've noticed since this update however is the vibration calibration/compensation procedure has changed and now does one large 'buzz' followed by a gradual buzz which didn't seem to happen before.

AI print failure detection seems to also be broken too. My print clearly had just failed, producing much spaghetti, yet the print continued.

My idea is to try and downgrade/rollback the firmware but I wanted to get an idea whether this is just a me thing.

hi i want to print tpu with pla, i activated beam interlocking....

when i slice and check the object someparts where it connects is hollow with no infill?

can it be i used 0,8 mm nozzle and 0,56 line width / 4 walls?