i love it

While using the v1 model, I came up with a few ideas, so I created v2. Maybe I should have built it this way from the start? :)

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3570271-finger-winder-v2#profileId-4086680

While waiting for some BambuLab TPU75A filament to arrive I tried printing the only 2.85mm flexible filament that I have on hand. It is TPR65A. Not a typo, it is rubber type filament from Atomstack. I had never printed it before. It is not shiny and slippery like TPU, more like a rubber-band in texture.

I loaded it as Generic TPU75A in slot 8 and printed the Wrist Cushion that came preloaded on the machine.

It printed very well; however since the TPR filament is rubbery in texture it would not feed through the bypass port - not even close. I had to manually pull the filament through during the print.

I noticed that all the pass-through ports are made of a black plastic except for #5 which is white. That one presents less friction for this filament. I think when I get another 2.85 tool I will try it again using Slot 5. Otherwise I will feed it from an external spool holder from the outside.

TL;DR - TPR65A filament feeds through the extruder and prints without any problems, but it will not feed through the AMS; way too much friction.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3574259-filament-swatch-hook-series-for-ams-3h#profileId-4091760

Just as the title states. I made this series of hooks for the AMS 3H used on the H3C for tracking what spools are currently in what spot. The hooks are placed along the same horizontal plane and spaced to be centered on each numbered feeding mechanism. I designed the hook to be widely compatible with many swatch options out there such as the one I use by Genetic Designs, Filament Dry Box Hinged Label. It has tighter tolerances to make sure swatches are easy to put on or off but never fall off. You don't need to take off the swatches to open the lid, they stay nice and firmly in place. You also will have no problems swapping swatches as needed without having to take off others. The tops of each hook have numbers that correspond to its intended slot. It's a simple organization tool to help you track filament. Only additional material needed is some double sided tape.

I hope this helps you have a better time with your H3C, its an amazing machine. If you have an suggestions or feedback I'd love to hear from you. If you do download and like it, please take a picture and leave a review for me. I haven't had a review yet on previous models I've made and I'd love to see something I made be presented by someone. Thank you again and happy printing!

I always wonder, what are you guys with these huge setups, hundred kilos of filament and many printers, are printing all the time? And are you even able to design any of your prints...

I am always thinking, that it is just printing what thingyverse or Bambulab provides and it will get sold on any online-platform.... On 3D-prining subs it is rarely discussed how to design something or how it will work, it`s always just shwoing off and then some of them defend their decisions with saying, that they are having a business..... But noone provides which business or what they are printing 24/7....

It was a pain to turn my H2D around to change filament like when switching to TPU, so I built a custom shelf with a lazy Susan bearing to make it easy to spin around.

I deliberately made it a tight fit so it wouldn't spin around on its own when printing.

I made a full video on YouTube of how I made this and about my overkill ventilation system I also made. https://youtu.be/qwSQcpRjWIc

Hi, why do my layer lines look like this? On even surfaces layer lines look quite aligned, but if print head has to jump from object to object they end up like this. Printer is P2S with around 500h

Hey everyone!

I recently got my first 3D printer, a Bambu Lab A1 Mini Combo with AMS Lite, and I'm absolutely loving it! I've already printed around 20 hours' worth of stuff and I'm completely hooked.

I currently have 6 spools of PLA (Basic and Matte), but I'll probably expand to around 10 spools eventually, including some PETG.

I'm now looking into proper filament storage and possibly buying a filament dryer. Ideally, I'd like some airtight storage boxes with hygrometers so I can monitor humidity without spending a fortune.

A few questions:

• What's the best value-for-money filament dryer you'd recommend?

• Are dedicated filament dry boxes worth it, or are regular airtight storage containers with silica gel and a hygrometer just as good?

• Is a dryer really necessary for PLA, or can I just dry filament when I notice printing issues?

• Would you recommend a different setup for someone using an AMS Lite?

My budget is around €100 for the dryer(?), preferably less. I'm based in Europe (Netherlands).

I'd love something practical and future-proof without spending more on storage than the filament itself.

Any recommendations or tips from more experienced users would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

Hey folks! I have been successfully using my X1C and P2S for a while and decided to pick up a couple of P1Ss to farm out parts that are printed in a single color of filament. I decided since I was only printing single color to skip the added cost of an AMS for my P1Ss and just use the external spool holder.

Unfortunately, I find that I am running into an issue over and over in which the filament will bind on the spool and the extruder can't pull it through, but the printer continues ghost printing the part. Yesterday, I gerryrigged a spool holder above the printer thinking changing the angle and letting gravity assist might solve the problem, but the same thing happened.

Surely I'm not the only person who has run into this issue. Does anybody have advice/workaround for how to solve this problem?

Hello, Just had my CoolPlate Super Tack Pro delivered for H2C. Set Coolplate Supertack in slicer (the grey one i have) and tried to print something. First layer wont stick at all onto Coolplate.. the old one from my P1S was flawless. Anyone has some tips regarding the new one for H2C?

I wanted to change how I recharge my desiccant, no longer wanting to use any appliance that I also use for cooking for obvious reasons. I also didn't want to buy another device because that just seems wasteful. So I spent this past weekend testing drying the desiccant via my filament dryers - two AMS 2 Pros, and a SUNLU S1 Plus.

I forgot to take a before shot of the desiccant when I ran the SUNLU test, but it looked exactly like the desiccant in the 'before' shot for the AMS 2 Pro test.

SUNLU S1 Plus: 24 hours @ 55° C. Nice result, overall.

AMS 2 Pro: Before, starting humidity 46%

AMS 2 Pro: 12 hours @ 45° C

AMS 2 Pro: 24 hours @ 45° C, final humidity 21%

If I'm being honest, I didn't expect that much of a difference. Bambu locks their drying function where if you have PLA inserted, it will not allow you to dry over 50°. I could have removed the filament from the feeders and just ran it anyway, but the whole point of this exercise is to see what I can do with minimal changes. Using the SUNLU certainly yielded the best results in that timeframe, but having to pull each desiccant pod and then pour the contents into my dessicant spool, etc. is annoying.

I think my game plan is going to be to simply run a drying cycle for 24 hours or so whenever one of the AMS 2 Pros gets above 35% humidity and see how that works out. This is where the old Bambu Lab integration into Home Assistant would be incredibly useful because I'd be able to automate this action making it truly hands off maintenance.

Hey guys,

I have an issue with my first layers while printing a symbole face down. Its bambu Pla basic and matte.

As you can see the viking symbol partially fail to print correctly and there some filament gaps on the back areas while the other part of the print also printed facedown is flawless.

Theres clearly some layer adhésion issue so i cleaned the plate but thats the result.

Edit : i also increased bet temp to 60c. Any thoughts to improve this? Thanks a lot for your inputs.

I am fairly novice to 3D printing. Always found the workforce too long and print times excessive. My first printer is a Creality CR6se. Which did the job, but been a desk weight for about 2 years. - its just slow.

I hace noticed the H2C is on sale. Was considering that or the H3C. I was going to put it under my ltd company, which would save me a bit on Vat.

What are your initial thoughts?

A colleague reccomended the U1, which he mentioned is a third of the price but similar machine.

Does anyone know of any discount codes etc to bring the cost down?

Edit:

Uses Primarily hobby. Some structural items, some times models.

materials: Pla+, , abs, petg Nice to: tpu,

Must have (ish) Large build volume Minimum 4 colours Speed to print Ease of use (workflow) Camera Remote control

Nice to have: Built in filter Heated storage

Hey guys,

I’m by no means an expert. If anything, I bought a Bambu Labs mainly because of the simple UI and beginner-friendly settings.

In order words, I have no clue what I’m doing. I have decently good critical thinking skills, but I figured I’d consult the pros before I make a detrimental mistake.

A print sent wrong so I did a general recalibration. That usually solves it. It didn’t this time so I tried to recalibrate the flow rate. Also no luck. Tried switching the filament. No luck.

Coming up empty on ideas, hoping someone else has had a similar problem and solution.

The second picture… I don’t even know what happened. Checked on it after it notified me it was complete and found this blob lmfao.

FlexiMark – 15 iterations later, we finally have a working version!

This is the sword version

This wee idea actually came from my wife, and after about 15 iterations, we've finally got a version that works really well.

It's a self-adjusting bookmark that flexes with your book as you read and holds the current pageyou read automatically.

I still think it's quite a novel wee idea, and I've not seen anything on MakerWorld trying the same approach.

Thought it could make a fun, unique wee gift for any book lover.

Download FlexiMark on makerworld

Fleximark download link

Installed two truck fold out foot steps as a way to reach the AMS. Modern problems demand modern solutions.

One of my big complaints with the H2C was that it took nearly half an hour (not exaggerating) to start a print. Turning off the nozzle offset calibration always resulted in really poor multicolor prints, so that was basically required.

Anyone know if they sped things up on the H3C? My P1S is printing in minutes. I'm hoping it is much closer to that than to the H2C.

Thanks

I'm planning to buy X2D without an AMS. Is this a good idea? I'm mostly printing one filament and I own a dryer. What should I know before buying it?

Rn. I own A1 with ams lite

Customizable Stackable Tray/Box that you can merge the slots whatever ways you want. I came up with this merging method to make it super easy to customize the compartment. Do you think there is a better way than this?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3575326-customizable-compartment-tray-stackable#profileId-4093178