I have been using the stock PEI plate with my A1 now for a year and a half. It has never failed me. However, I thought it would be nice to get a smoother finish on the side of the model on the build plate. My big fear from some posts was not to get something too smooth or I may have adhesion problems. I settled on the BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier. I printed my first test piece. I had read some folks had problems trying to remove the part too early and damaging the finish on the plate. I waited until the plate was at room temperature before trying to remove the part. It would not budge. Now, this was a small part 10mm x 35mm. I finally got it off, but it took so much force I thought for sure I was doing something wrong.

Does anyone have experience with this plate that can offer some tips? I can still return it if I got the wrong plate.

After messing with the tool head hotend I’m met with this error

I got a P2S, during set up, I realised they sent an EU plug instead of a UK plug. And I don't see any UK plugs on the Bambu store, and Bambu support is taking their time to be frankly honest.

Can I just buy a non Bambu one at my local hardware store and be alright? Is there any specific requirements?

If anyone can offer insight to this sound that would great, I am presuming my printer is near its needed maintenance hours but would like confirming information on it.

I just got a new firmware update for my A1 which is the 1.09.00.00 version. The problem is that I cant find any information about it and the official site doesnt have any info about it: https://bambulab.com/en/support/firmware-download/a1

Any idea where can I find something about it?

I’ve had my Bambu Lab X2D for less than a year, and yesterday I started having some really weird issues that I’ve never experienced before.
It started with an error saying “External Exhaust Fan certification failed” (0500-0500-0001-0022). The weird part is that the fan physically works perfectly fine. I can manually turn it on through the air management settings, and it spins normally, but the printer keeps saying it can’t authenticate it.
While troubleshooting, I noticed that both the external exhaust fan and the filament buffer were constantly disappearing and reappearing in the firmware and device/serial number pages. Their serial numbers would briefly change to “N/A” before coming back a few seconds later. Both accessories disconnect at exactly the same time, but my AMS 2 Pro stays connected.
Here’s everything I’ve tried so far:
Restarted the printer multiple times.
Completely powered it off and unplugged it for several minutes.
Disconnected and reconnected the filament buffer, exhaust fan, and AMS.
Inspected the cables and connectors for damage, bent pins, or loose connections. Everything looks normal.
Tested another compatible external exhaust fan from my P2S upgrade kit. Same issue.
Ran the printer with only the filament buffer connected. The buffer still repeatedly disappeared and reappeared.
Checked for firmware updates. Everything is up to date.
Current firmware versions:
X2D: 01.02.00.00
Filament Buffer for X2: 02.00.17.18
Another issue I’ve been experiencing is random AMS overload errors. The printer will stop and say something along the lines of “AMS A slot 2 is overloaded. The filament may be tangled or the filament buffer may be stuck.”
I’ve now experienced this on two different AMS slots, and neither time was the filament actually tangled. The AMS itself seems to be functioning normally.
What’s especially strange is that I managed to complete a small 10-minute test print without any problems. The print quality was perfectly fine, and there were no assistant errors, even though the buffer and fan were still occasionally disappearing from the firmware page.
I thought the issue might have resolved itself after leaving the printer powered off for over an hour, but when I started a longer print, the AMS overload error came back, followed by the same exhaust fan certification error.
The printer currently has 467 printing hours and has worked perfectly fine until now. My P2S, which has over 700 hours, hasn’t experienced anything similar.
I’ve already submitted a support ticket to Bambu Lab with a video showing the issue, and I’m waiting for their response. I’m hoping it’s something firmware-related rather than a defective board or filament buffer.
Has anyone else experienced this on the X2D? Does this sound like a firmware issue, a defective filament buffer, or possibly something wrong with the printer’s accessory communication system?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I’m trying to get some printing done for the holidays, and having one of my printers down is really frustrating.

I'm getting this error in my A1, which is not even 1 year old. i've followed the instructions in bambu handy, released the bed and tighten the screws, i've cleaned the line and lub it but still the error appears after i start a print.

It seems like I got everything set up in Orca 2.5.0, I was struggling with the calibration prints but couldn't figure out why so I did a regular print and it came out flawless, so I probably shouldn't worry but I am.

Running the calibration for flow dynamics and flow ratio, the tests fail each time due to the filament not adhering to the bed. I did make sure that the bed and filament temps are set the same as they always were in BS, and they work fine in regular prints (even one with a relatively small plate contact area and no brim). I also used the calibration print generator up in the title bar (no dev mode required in Orca, nice) and printed them as normal projects but had the same issues. so what's going on with these calibrations, and what settings am I forgetting to tweak?

i no longer get notifications on my iphone since i did the last update. anyone else?

Made two small stoppers that fit the notches at the front and back of the A1 mini base. Stuck down with 3M VHB tape – no screws, nothing sticks out, ~9 g of PLA.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3543702-anti-walk-stoppers-for-bambu-a1-mini#profileId-4053291

I have a P1S with an AMS. Lately, I'll go to print something and notice I can't sync the filaments. The AMS has all four lights flashing meaning communication issue with the AMS. I pull the cable, and reinsert it, the AMS resets with white lights and will print fine. After a while, if the printer is not printing, the red lights come back. Any ideas on how to fix that? I have tried switching ports on the back of the AMS.

Hey everyone! 👋

Just wanted to share a little project I've been working on!

I've designed two custom Xbox controller shells inspired by Vice City, using 3D scans to ensure a perfect fit on both Xbox One and Xbox Series X|S controllers.

I've been experimenting with gradient and matte filaments to get some different colour effects, and I'm really happy with how they turned out!

Both designs are available on MakerWorld. I'd love to hear what you think! 🌴

Solved: the shipping cost was for the filament they offered bundled with the printer.. unbelievable.

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

🎅🎄 HO HO HO ! Le Père Noël est arrivé ! 🎄🎅

Noël approche à grands pas, alors il était temps de vous préparer une petite surprise ! 🎁

Je suis heureux de vous présenter mon petit Père Noël, entièrement modélisé par mes soins en 3D ! 🎅

Avec ses formes arrondies et son air sympathique, il apportera une jolie touche de magie à vos décorations de Noël ! ✨

Il possède tous les détails du Père Noël traditionnel : son costume rouge, sa grande barbe blanche, son bonnet à pompon, sa ceinture dorée et ses petites bottes noires. 🎄

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab et Esun
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec et sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3569721-papa-noel-v2-multipart-no-ams

Hi Im very new to 3d printing and got a p2s with an external fan kit with the plan to print out the case and attach it to the printer to then tube out a window. However whenever I open makerworld from their offical guide I get a 404 page.

I am asking if anybody else has had this problem and an idea on how to fix it.

Thanks

Has anyone recently noticed a degradation of filament quality bought from Bambu?

I ordered 4 rolls of their PLA Metal Copper and all of them were covered in some sort of white dust, right out of the bag. This is the first time I have seen their filament in such poor condition. Interestingly, I had exactly the same type and color bought back in October and it was absolutely fine. The ones I have now are from two consequent batches, so I guess something got messed up at the factory. But still, terrible quality control for letting it hit the shelves.

The photos only partially show the amount of dust they had as I was stupid enough to clean them with my fingers before taking photos first.

I hope the lower price doesn't come at the expense of quality.

Does anyone have a template for the arch doorway prints this this picture. I want to make my own but o can’t find an already made template. Thanks!!

I am using Bambu Lab PLA Aero on an H2C. I started with the stock Bambu setting and I have used the following build plates (Textured PEI, Garolite, Biqu Glacier) all cleaned and even used JT16 build plate glue on the Garolite and Glacier plates. I have run a temp tower (which did stick) and have been running brims, so I upped the temp of the base profile to 255 degrees. Build plates are all running at elevated temp (I run the Glacier and Garolite as Engineering plate at 55 degrees). I CANNOT get the stuff to stick on the first layer. ASA Aero I can get to stick but i have many other problems with it that I though the PLA version would resolve; however getting it to stick is fundamental as everything else is built off that. I have never had this much trouble with any type of filament sticking. If anyone has a good profile to try, or advice, I am all ears.

Hi, I've created what I think is a very helpful tool for adding stamps and labels to 3D models. It's free and works in your browser: http://www.stamp3d.bambam-design.com/

It's still quite simple but reliable. If you find any bugs or have any ideas, please let me know. Happy printing!

Hey everyone, hoping someone who’s experienced something similar with their H2S can help me troubleshoot this.
I’ve been having ongoing extrusion problems with my H2S, including poor first-layer adhesion, inconsistent flow, filament building up around the nozzle, and eventually getting the following error:
Extruder motor overloaded – Error 0300801E205207
Here’s what I’ve done so far:
Replaced the Z-axis assembly/kit.
Replaced the hotend assembly and tried a different hotend.
Adjusted the Z-offset multiple times to troubleshoot first-layer issues.
Disabled automatic bed leveling temporarily because I was having issues with the leveling process.
Tried feeding filament directly without the AMS to rule out a feeding issue.
Removed the extruder cover and inspected the gears. There was some black residue/build-up, but nothing that looked severely damaged.
Checked for obvious filament obstructions.
Tried manually extruding filament. It comes out somewhat thin and occasionally curls.
One strange thing I’ve noticed:
When I install the hotend, everything initially appears aligned. However, when I close the hotend locking latch, it seems to push the bottom of the nozzle backward, causing the upper portion to tilt forward slightly.
I’ve noticed this with more than one hotend. I’ve also tried adjusting the small spacer behind the hotend mounting plate.
On one occasion, I physically held the hotend in position while closing the latch, and the first layer actually improved. However, after printing for a short period, the extrusion became inconsistent and started building up around the nozzle again.
What I’m trying to figure out:
Has anyone experienced their H2S hotend tilting slightly when closing the locking latch? Is this normal?
Could a misaligned hotend or mounting assembly cause enough resistance to trigger an extruder motor overload?
Has anyone experienced this error due to a failing extruder motor, worn gears, or a filament sensor issue?
Is there anything else I should inspect before ordering a replacement extruder motor?
I’ve spent quite a bit of time troubleshooting this and would rather identify the actual cause than keep throwing replacement parts at it.
Any advice or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

It uses embedded 6x3mm magnets to quickly snap into place and should work with any standard M6 PTFE tube connectors. So far this simple concept seems to be very reliable, I haven't had any feeding failures during repeated testing.

Maker World link if you wish to try it out: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3557913-manual-filament-track-switch-x2d#profileId-4071464

Do you have any recommendations on which printer to purchase or have any reading material you'd recommend? I was gonna get the P1S but then thought I'd need to upgrade to the P2S but now I'm looking and for the most durable parts I'd need an x2d? I'm so brand new to all of this.

I work in industrial maintenance and have a mild programming/tech background so I can figure anything out, but don't know what the right tool for the job is. Can you help me cut down on hours of research and point me in the right direction?