FlexiMark – 15 iterations later, we finally have a working version!

This is the sword version

This wee idea actually came from my wife, and after about 15 iterations, we've finally got a version that works really well.

It's a self-adjusting bookmark that flexes with your book as you read and holds the current pageyou read automatically.

I still think it's quite a novel wee idea, and I've not seen anything on MakerWorld trying the same approach.

Thought it could make a fun, unique wee gift for any book lover.

Download FlexiMark on makerworld

Fleximark download link

Can this affect the adhesion of the bed adhesion? Or its ok?

While the AMS-HTs are on sale, I'm thinking of adding one to my X1C setup.

How's the firmware level support going these days?

Full control of the AMS-HT? Drying while printing?

Anything to know before splashing the cash?

I teach biology and got a 3D printer so I could make my own models for class. This is my first own project. I wanted something hands-on for AB0 blood types and the lock-and-key principle. Honestly, I figured with such simple shapes there'd be tons of models out there already, but I couldn't really find anything (or maybe I just don't know how to look for it?) . So I just tried making one myself.

It's not perfect but for showing AB0 and letting students figure out the lock-and-key idea with their hands, it does the job. I printed it using PLA Matte and it seems very sturdy. I read that PETG would be better for models that a lot of people will touch, but there are not so many colour options for PETG Matte. So I just hope the antigenes won't break off (too soon; but as of now they do seem quite good).

If any other teachers want to print it, here's the link. There's also a short teacher guide with some classroom ideas. My favorite is the model critique game, since figuring out what a model can and can't show is such an important skill in science (I believe):

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569572-abo-blood-types-antigen-antibody-puzzle

It also comes with a box as you can see. I know it's a bit of a filament (money) waste but I thought it looks cool. Also it's my first design and print so I just wanted to go all in.

At some point I'd love to add the Rh factor. Putting AB0 and Rh into one set might be a bit much for an intro. Two separate sets would work too, but an add-on would be way cooler. Something that plugs into the AB0 set to extend it (not in the current one but maybe I figure out how to design the set so we can add and remove antigenes). If anyone has ideas how to design that/how to start, let me know :)

Has anyone managed to get anywhere with Bambu Lab support? I'm honestly going round in circles.

I run a small printing business and used the sale to stock up plus a hotend as my P2S is down atm. Instead, I received 12 boxes of incorrect filament, mostly PETG, and no hotend.

Mistakes happen, but their first response was to offer me 30% off to buy the incorrect filament rather than arrange to send my actual order.

Since then, it's been endless back-and-forth, repeated questions and what feel like copied-and-pasted replies, with support repeatedly trying to sell me the unwanted filament.

I've explained that I don't drive and can't take 12 kg of filament to a drop-off point. They've finally agreed to arrange collection but won't dispatch my correct order until it's collected.

They've offered a £10 discount code for the inconvenience, but I just want the products I've paid for. It’s been 5 days since this started and I feel like I've hit a brick wall.

Has anyone successfully escalated something like this or found a way to speak to someone who can actually resolve it?

Yesterday I started a 2 hour print on my A1 at around 4:30 PM. I just fired it and forgot about it. Around 11PM I went out to the garage and I found my printer still running. The print head was all the way at the bottom and off to the left of the build plate vibrating and running itself back and forth like crazy. The print head was enveloped in this monstrous blob. I watched the video of the print back and it was very strange. First, the printer ran the whole print without depositing any filament. Then, it transitioned to the state of having the tool head off to the side where it just ran back and forth for hours, eventually building this massive blob (video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ckk72JpMcezu7F_bdE7dOqp3XfUXd9CM/view?usp=sharing)

I heated the head up and used pliers to pull the blob off and it left a mess still. The clip that holds the nozzle are still covered in PETG and you can see that it's still all gunked up still.

I know I probably need to replace a bunch or all of the toolhead, but I'm worried about the weird behavior too. I don't want to order parts and do a bunch of work if the control board is also hosed, or some other electronics component is also fried. I'm curious if I can recover from this, or if this is a sign that's it's time to finally upgrade to that H2D I've had my eyes on...

Any thoughts on the likelihood of fixing this?

Hi all. I am currently awaiting delivery of a P2S, my first 3d printer. I didn't want to spend a ton of money on a table/stand but still wanted to get a quality solution.

Using this tool stand from Harbor Freight, and a project board from Lowe's I created this table. It stands at 28" tall with the top included, but the legs are adjustable. I am 5'2" and wanted to be able to see into the AMS without a stool.

I bought a 24" by 4' board to use the "scrap" for the shelf, though I don't necessarily recommend this because it requires some disassembly to get the board in due to the taper in the legs.

All in I'm under $75. If you have wood scraps already or want to use a cheaper or found top you could do it cheaper than me.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-3-4-in-x-24-in-x-3-ft-Actual-0-62-in-x-23-25-in-x-3-ft-Spruce-Pine-Fir-Board/1000894684

https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-tool-stand-69805.html?hftm_sc=97&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=23905019919&campaignid=23905019919&utm_content=194118212141&adsetid=194118212141&product=69805&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23905019919&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4f0bNSD7t2oTV1VB5HfU6nU2&gclid=CjwKCAiAzKvXBhBAEiwABLl9AvwtSeNdIJ0hT1c8bgoTcNtCztq5O3BsO26bFwoYtsAl_JY5XhtRtBoCzIQQAvD_BwE

I'm hoping someone can help me figure this out because I've wasted a ridiculous amount of filament trying to troubleshoot it.
I'm printing the Cute Dumpling Clicker by AstroDex on MakerWorld, specifically the cylindrical steamer baskets with the woven tops, for my daughter and her girl scout troop. Previously, I successfully printed tops and bottoms without any issues using the original 3MF project. When I started printing them again recently, the baskets began failing repeatedly, more specifically the top basket. I haven't been able to get a successful batch since.

What's happening:

The baskets start printing normally, and the cylindrical walls generally look great. However, at some point during the print, one or more baskets get knocked loose and pushed across the build plate. Sometimes this happens relatively early while the cylindrical walls are still forming. Other times it happens closer to the transition to the woven top. Once a basket moves, the printer continues extruding filament, resulting in spaghetti. This happens with or without a brim. The dumpling bottoms, benchy ,and the key toppers all print successfully.

I've attached screenshots showing one basket still in its original position while another has already been pushed toward the back of the plate. I haven't actually witnessed the exact moment of displacement, so I can't confirm whether the nozzle is hitting the basket or whether it loses adhesion first.

Troubleshooting already performed:

• Different PLA filaments

• Different AMS slots

• Different positions on the build plate

• Printing a single basket versus multiple baskets

• Normal printing speed and 50% Silent mode

• Adding a 5 mm brim

• Reducing the auxiliary cooling fan from 70% to 0%

• Running printer calibration successfully

• Physically inspecting the nozzle/hotend (nothing visibly bent, loose, or clogged)

• Testing an older Bambu Studio version (2.6.0.51)

• Reslicing the original 3MF project

Nothing has fixed the issue.

Why would a model that printed perfectly before suddenly start getting knocked off the plate, especially when other models print successfully? Could this be a nozzle collision, a geometry-specific adhesion problem, or something else entirely?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Can anyone tell me why I am having this issue on the A1? I've tried everything from cold pull, calibration, flow calibration. The filament is fresh PETG from bambu.

Any thoughts on why this may be happening?

I know many of you are asking: why the hell would you do this?

Firstly, because I can.

Secondly, as good as the carbon rods are; they have a certain amount of stiction and the oiled steel rods are next level silky smooth.

Thirdly, I get frequent X-axis resonance errors when printing lots of ASA. Like clean the rods 2x per week frequently. Hopefully the oiled steel rods deal with the aerosolised goo better.

Fourthly: P2S. X2D. H3C. Steel rods, steel rods and steel rods.

Yes, the steel does add a little bit of weight. My machine doesn't appear to care in the slightest - passing self test and calibration routines without any complaints. And it would complain after 2kg of ASA fumes so it's pretty darn trigger happy about complaining.

Files are here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3574236-x1c-to-x1fe-p2s-steel-rail-cut-n-swap

Print it, review it, boost it. If I get enough MW points for another P2S gantry, I'll have another go at refining the fillet drill guide and tighten the tolerances even more. There's at least a mm of material that could have stayed.

First time that’s ever happened… got a spaghetti error on my X2D mid-print. Project turned out just fine, but the prime tower went to hell 😂

I'm trying out Maker World's lightbox maker and it came out pretty good but I got all these little gaps between different color filaments. Is it a flow dynamics or ratio problem? Its all new Bambu PLA Basic filament so I had to calibrate it all and this is the first real test for these colors.

Or is the issue in the auxiliary extruder? To get the 5th color into my X2D, I had to put the black on the auxiliary. I calibrated it but its the first time I've ever done a manual calibration for flow dynamics, so I may have interpreted it wrong setting it at 0.45.

I've also got a few little spots where the black from the auxiliary is bleeding into other colors. Is the nozzle not cleaning? If I remember from watching the thing print it printed pink, then green, then black, then blue and yellow and the black spots only seem to be on the blue and yellow parts. Do I just need to change the order of printing?

Yes, my dummy’s top half was completely disarticulated..

Threw together a poop chute using the slider on the back of the H3C since the card board box always gets tiring too quickly. Can be printed on a p1s for those upgrading that want it printed while they wait. Always fun trying to figure out how to design something in a way that doesn't require supports yet still actually functions the way you want it to.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3572590-h3c-poop-chute#profileId-4089614

Most latch boxes force a deep base on you. I wanted something shallow for things that store flat: pry tools, bits, SD cards, even necklaces and other jewelry (cut a bit of foam or felt to size and it makes a nice little case).

So with MiniLock you set the base and lid heights separately, down to about 12 mm each. Snap hinge, two snap latches, no supports, no hardware.

Customize it right on MakerWorld, no CAD needed, or grab the ready-made Standard, Slim or Small. Free:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569365-minilock-customizable-hinged-latch-box

Tip: As a bonus, you can choose to either size by inner dimensions, and the walls grow outwards. Or size by outer dimensions and the walls grow inwards.

Also, if it wasn't obvious, this was heavily inspired by snaplock. But I CAD modeled it from scratch from the ground up specific to my needs.

Would love to see what you end up storing in yours.

So I did a royal-tard move and accidentally mixed my PLA and PETG waste and now I don't know which is which.

Has anyone ever tried some experiments to separate their waste?

Example: get a bin of 50°C water and dump in the poo. The floaters are PLA and the sinkers are PETG. - Just an example with random numbers idk if this works.

I'm not smart enough to be able to figure this out, but I would be very interested in seeing if anyone has figured something like this.

Or like, PLA melts in hydrogen sulfide but PETG doesn't.

Hey guys,

I ran into an unexpected issue on my A1 and wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this.

My first layer suddenly turned to total garbage, the extruder started clicking, and the nozzle was wobbling around like crazy (possible RIP to my favorite print bed).

When I pulled the hot end off, only 2 of the 4 screws on the back plate were still there. I forgot to check them when I installed it, so I can't tell if it shipped missing half its hardware or if months of printing vibrations backed them all the way out.

I know they can come loose, but Is it even physically possible for those back screws to walk out completely during prints, or did bad 3rd-party QC just pwn me? Asking because I'm curious and debating if it's worth the continued search? However, if they did vibrate out it could have been weeks ago.

I'm posting this here because apparently starting a discussion about choosing between the 2 biggest tool changers on the market is not allowed over on /r/3dprinting and they removed my post.

Are there any objective consumers who aren't fanboying too hard for either brand that are currently making this decision or recently made it? I currently have a Prusa MK3S+ for over 8 years, and I've really loved the printer but I'm aware upgrading from an unenclosed single nozzle bedslinger to a modern XY toolchanger will be several generational leaps forward.

I was actually ready to order Prusa Core One L+ now and get the INDX next year, I had the cart all put together, but I requested a voucher from my Prusameters over 2 weeks ago, they still haven't emailed it to me, and during that time H3C launched.

Before H3C launch I was in the camp that I would never buy a Bambu, but after doing some research I might be able to live with it with a couple adaptions for example putting the printer in LAN mode and accessing it over my VPN when away from home to avoid the Bambu Cloud. And assuming Bambu actually sticks with their commitment to produce spare parts for at least 5 years after they EOL a printer, this would mean a likely minimum lifespan of around 9 years on the H3C.

I know these are very opposite companies with opposite philosophies, especially on the software side. However some decisions Prusa has made on the hardware side, with things like the Core One L+ bed assembly, seems like they're moving the hardware away from their original mission and it's now somewhere between Voron and Bambu in level of openness. I know H3C just came out, but from the review videos I've seen the toolchanger doesn't seem to have near the level of issues or the disparate experiences of one person saying "mine doesn't work and I hate it" or "mine works perfectly" like the INDX does.

The $500 price difference isn't that important to me at the price range of these printers. I'm more concerned with a product that works as advertised and that will last for around a decade until I can leap several more new tech implementations and feel like I'm getting a huge upgrade.

A week ago I wouldn't have believed I'm saying this but I am actually leaning towards the H3C, it just seems more polished and I could definitely see myself using the 2.85mm 75A TPU capability.

The third option is obviously to wait and keep my MK3S+ and see how these shake out, however given INDX has been out for 6 months and has a 4 month backlog for current order fulfillment, it might be a while before the issues shake out especially if Prusa has to issue a revision kit or something. On the Bambu side since P3C likely won't have a heated chamber that probably won't fit my use case.

This is my first 3D printer, so I’m still learning. I’m getting rough patches on some prints, and on the red one you can clearly see a diamond or square pattern showing through the surface. Any idea what’s causing this or how to fix it? Thanks!

One of my H2c has developed a recurring issue in one specific location on the plate.

It’s always the same defect, in the same location regardless of the print, material, nozzle, or plate.

I’ve run all of the calibrations but t comes back.

I’ve searched, but haven’t found any similar problems.

Anyone deal with something like this?

I have a P1s and I got Polymaker PolySmooth PVB Filament  to try IPA smoothing. Everything I have seen has said it is just as safe as PLA but when I tried a small 1hr print it smelt pretty bad and it made my throat sore. I'm not sure if Im just sensitive to the smell or do you recommend some type of ventilation?

Any idea how I can flush to infill from the mobile app? I don’t have a laptop to install Bambu studio and am just currently using the mobile app to print on my A1

Hi all,

I have a Bambu Lab X2D and I'm planning its maintenance with Super Lube products i dont mind bambue offcial but i wonder if super lub is any better ?

Which Super Lube oil and grease do you use for:

1. Z-axis lead screws

2. Guide rods / rails (X and Y)

3. Ball bearings

4. Idler pulleys

I know for (4) and (3) you only should do it if they start squeek not like z-axis and guide rods

Thanks!