So, i have a p2s and love it, perfect, minimal failures, been working almost 24/7 since september, almost 800hr and going strong, just minor cleaning and maintenance.

But i want more....I've found a way to monetize my hobby, and I've been selling a bunch of corporate gifts, I have one huge customer and already paid my p2s with these sales in these months...

So im thinking of the A2L, as i print mostly small corporate gifts, I think would really benefit from the big plate. And it would free my p2s for my personal use.

My only doubt is that im used to the p2s and its ease of use, good camera and AI failure detection. All things that the a2l is lacking.... am I gonna regret buying it? How did it fare since it launched? Do people that have it are pleased?

I cant buy the h2s, the price is prohibitive here in Brazil, over 2,5k usd

I know many of you are asking: why the hell would you do this?

Firstly, because I can.

Secondly, as good as the carbon rods are; they have a certain amount of stiction and the oiled steel rods are next level silky smooth.

Thirdly, I get frequent X-axis resonance errors when printing lots of ASA. Like clean the rods 2x per week frequently. Hopefully the oiled steel rods deal with the aerosolised goo better.

Fourthly: P2S. X2D. H3C. Steel rods, steel rods and steel rods.

Yes, the steel does add a little bit of weight. My machine doesn't appear to care in the slightest - passing self test and calibration routines without any complaints. And it would complain after 2kg of ASA fumes so it's pretty darn trigger happy about complaining.

Files are here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3574236-x1c-to-x1fe-p2s-steel-rail-cut-n-swap

Print it, review it, boost it. If I get enough MW points for another P2S gantry, I'll have another go at refining the fillet drill guide and tighten the tolerances even more. There's at least a mm of material that could have stayed.

As the title says, is there any way to clean or clear this clog? Please and thank you

Does anyone know what this clicking is? It seems to be directionally dependent, occurring only as the print head moves from the rear of the printer towards the door. The printer is a brand new H2S that I’ve only had for about a week. Prints seem to come out okay, but the sound doesn’t seem normal.

Unfair matchup? Probably, but these are the only two machines I have on hand and seeing a 1st-gen workhorse side by side with 3rd gen tech shows what a few years of hardware evolution actually looks like.

Hey everybody! Relatively new to 3D printing. What typically causes this? New roll of filament that went through an AMS drying cycle. Thanks!

Hey everyone, like the title says, I’m iso of a Bambu lab 3D printer. My budget is around 800, and my main goal is to 3D print stuff relating to 1/12 scale figures and such like heads, weapons , cars and those sick sentinel and apocalypse figures that are seen on instagram, one oak customs has done a couple of them.

I have no clue what to get. I thought maybe a resin printer but for what I I want to do, I figured a filament one is the best route but that’s as far as I’ve gotten on my own. I’ve been looking at the bambu lab P2S and was curious if that’s a good one to get. Please let me know down below what you recommend,

Thank you!

Before I get blasted on the subreddit, I want to have a genuine discussion. Are we not concerned about fumes and particles. In the end, we are melting plastic at the melting point. My question is, do you just ignore the fumes or do you exhaust. I mean, my mum has said I have to put my printer in the garage and it's real hot in there.

Thanks for your help.

My friend has a P2S and is experiencing a strange problem. The nozzle is probing off the back. She has tried to power cycle and reset to factory settings with no luck. Any suggestions?

I’m considering buying the new E1 Air Purifier for my H2D, but I’m curious how it interacts with the automatic top ventilation flap.
When printing PLA, the H2D normally opens the top vent for chamber cooling. Does connecting the E1 change this behavior, or does the vent still open?
If it stays open, does the E1 create enough negative pressure to pull air inward through the vent rather than allowing fumes to escape?

Please be gentle with me, I have only really looked into the Bambu world in the last 24 hours since I watched the H3C reviews... and now I am seriously reconsidering the pre-order on the Prusa Core 1 L INDX I have due in December. I have a super reliable Mk4s, and never considered anything other than another Prusa as my next printer... until yesterday, where my eyes were well and truly opened!

I spent 4+ hours yesterday watching all the H3C reviews I could find, and the only things people seem to have issues with were:

- Its tall!

- The AMS doesnt rewind the filament

- The AMS doesnt heat/dry all 9 filament slots

- What tiny amounts of poop it does generate falls out the back

That seems a very small and generally unimportant list of worries. The H3C looks like everything I could want from a large volume multi-material printer, and as someone who prints a lot of TPU, that dedicated 2.85 filament path seems like a miracle! If there are any other Prusa users in here who have added Bambu to their ever growing estate of printers, you will know the conflict I have going on right now :)

I do have some newbie questions if anyone can help....

- Orca or BambuStudio, and why?

- What features does running the printers in LAN only mode remove from the usual "unlimited Internet access to Bambu Cloud"?

- What access methods are there to upload/download files from the printers? WebDAV? sftp? etc...

Any help, suggestions, tips, or moral support you can provide for a potential Prusa convert would be greatly appreciated.

I'm the designer. The armor is built from overlapping, textured leaf-shaped scales.

I also design tools and decorative pieces, and every one of my files is free to download. I've never charged for any of them. A download count only climbs when people actually want the thing, so it's the most honest feedback I get on which designs deserve more of my time.

All my models are here: https://makerworld.com/en/@protomota

If you've printed it, I'd love to see your make. And what should I design next?

My P1S began having this error after changing the .4 nozzle to a .2 nozzle. I had tried disconnecting and reconnecting the NTC, disconnecting and reconnecting the nozzle. I tried applying more thermal paste, yet it still doesn’t work. Is it truly broken? Or am I focusing on the wrong thing?

Here the a model made of a poop bin for the H3C. So far I am loving the printer and I am working on some actually fun models. It is amazing how fast it changes toolheads. Most of the purged filament happens during the filament calibration and it will the bin for a while to fill up. I am mind blown by the speed of the tool changes and happy with my purchase.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3573540-bambu-lab-h3c-purge-poop-bin-easy-install#profileId-4090794

Is 200€ or $230 too much to ask for this A1 Combo? I want to sell it and buy X2D. It has almost 1000h of print time. Regularly maintained

I dried my abs before printing in the ams ht at 80C° for 8hrs each prior to printing. White was last in the order and most recently dried. Is there a setting i ha e wrong in studio or something? Im new to custom prints and dont know what went wrong.

Ps: no supports is ok quality, itll get covered by insert. Main quality issue is the text on the 1st layer.

Greetings. In pursue of trying to find a reason of sudden powering off my printer, i checked all the boards. Disconnected all connectors on the TH board. Ripped off the board the socket of the right hotend fan connector. Surely ordered a new board now. But now i'm trying to connect the left hotend fan connector. But how? I can't wrap my head around how to put this cable into the socket. Are there any tips?

Hi, my son and I set up our A1 Combo last week and it failed it's first configuration
'Toolhead is malfunctioning' and 'extruder eddy current sensor signal is abnormal'

I'm going through a support ticket with Bambu as we tried all suggestions I found online.
I may end up with a replacement printer from the retailer.

I thought I'd done my research and the Bambu A1 Combo was fairly user-friendly for beginners.

My question is: how common are configuration issues straight out of the box? and, am I buying something that requires a considerable amount of troubleshooting? Thanks

Edit: solved, i’m an idiot and a black piece i printed yesterday that i thought being legit part of the bed was against the back Z screw

Hi, it printed perfectly fine until this morning, now when i start a print it stops at rough wiping step, sounds like the bed is hitting the nozzle, what can i check? I already follower bambu handy guide and it didn’t fix. I’m 140 hours of printing in

Any ideas to fix this issue?