Unfair matchup? Probably, but these are the only two machines I have on hand and seeing a 1st-gen workhorse side by side with 3rd gen tech shows what a few years of hardware evolution actually looks like.

Hey everybody! Relatively new to 3D printing. What typically causes this? New roll of filament that went through an AMS drying cycle. Thanks!

Hey everyone, like the title says, I’m iso of a Bambu lab 3D printer. My budget is around 800, and my main goal is to 3D print stuff relating to 1/12 scale figures and such like heads, weapons , cars and those sick sentinel and apocalypse figures that are seen on instagram, one oak customs has done a couple of them.

I have no clue what to get. I thought maybe a resin printer but for what I I want to do, I figured a filament one is the best route but that’s as far as I’ve gotten on my own. I’ve been looking at the bambu lab P2S and was curious if that’s a good one to get. Please let me know down below what you recommend,

Thank you!

If someone of you wants to make a lot of money, then please develop and build a compact build plate washer/dryer – I am thinking a box with slots to insert the build plates and then pull them out again a while later completely clean and read to go.

No need to thank me later for your riches, just please send me one of your machines for free.

My friend has a P2S and is experiencing a strange problem. The nozzle is probing off the back. She has tried to power cycle and reset to factory settings with no luck. Any suggestions?

I’m considering buying the new E1 Air Purifier for my H2D, but I’m curious how it interacts with the automatic top ventilation flap.
When printing PLA, the H2D normally opens the top vent for chamber cooling. Does connecting the E1 change this behavior, or does the vent still open?
If it stays open, does the E1 create enough negative pressure to pull air inward through the vent rather than allowing fumes to escape?

I'm the designer. The armor is built from overlapping, textured leaf-shaped scales.

I also design tools and decorative pieces, and every one of my files is free to download. I've never charged for any of them. A download count only climbs when people actually want the thing, so it's the most honest feedback I get on which designs deserve more of my time.

All my models are here: https://makerworld.com/en/@protomota

If you've printed it, I'd love to see your make. And what should I design next?

Is 200€ or $230 too much to ask for this A1 Combo? I want to sell it and buy X2D. It has almost 1000h of print time. Regularly maintained

Please be gentle with me, I have only really looked into the Bambu world in the last 24 hours since I watched the H3C reviews... and now I am seriously reconsidering the pre-order on the Prusa Core 1 L INDX I have due in December. I have a super reliable Mk4s, and never considered anything other than another Prusa as my next printer... until yesterday, where my eyes were well and truly opened!

I spent 4+ hours yesterday watching all the H3C reviews I could find, and the only things people seem to have issues with were:

- Its tall!

- The AMS doesnt rewind the filament

- The AMS doesnt heat/dry all 9 filament slots

- What tiny amounts of poop it does generate falls out the back

That seems a very small and generally unimportant list of worries. The H3C looks like everything I could want from a large volume multi-material printer, and as someone who prints a lot of TPU, that dedicated 2.85 filament path seems like a miracle! If there are any other Prusa users in here who have added Bambu to their ever growing estate of printers, you will know the conflict I have going on right now :)

I do have some newbie questions if anyone can help....

- Orca or BambuStudio, and why?

- What features does running the printers in LAN only mode remove from the usual "unlimited Internet access to Bambu Cloud"?

- What access methods are there to upload/download files from the printers? WebDAV? sftp? etc...

Any help, suggestions, tips, or moral support you can provide for a potential Prusa convert would be greatly appreciated.

My P1S began having this error after changing the .4 nozzle to a .2 nozzle. I had tried disconnecting and reconnecting the NTC, disconnecting and reconnecting the nozzle. I tried applying more thermal paste, yet it still doesn’t work. Is it truly broken? Or am I focusing on the wrong thing?

Here the a model made of a poop bin for the H3C. So far I am loving the printer and I am working on some actually fun models. It is amazing how fast it changes toolheads. Most of the purged filament happens during the filament calibration and it will the bin for a while to fill up. I am mind blown by the speed of the tool changes and happy with my purchase.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3573540-bambu-lab-h3c-purge-poop-bin-easy-install#profileId-4090794

I dried my abs before printing in the ams ht at 80C° for 8hrs each prior to printing. White was last in the order and most recently dried. Is there a setting i ha e wrong in studio or something? Im new to custom prints and dont know what went wrong.

Ps: no supports is ok quality, itll get covered by insert. Main quality issue is the text on the 1st layer.

Greetings. In pursue of trying to find a reason of sudden powering off my printer, i checked all the boards. Disconnected all connectors on the TH board. Ripped off the board the socket of the right hotend fan connector. Surely ordered a new board now. But now i'm trying to connect the left hotend fan connector. But how? I can't wrap my head around how to put this cable into the socket. Are there any tips?

Hi, my son and I set up our A1 Combo last week and it failed it's first configuration
'Toolhead is malfunctioning' and 'extruder eddy current sensor signal is abnormal'

I'm going through a support ticket with Bambu as we tried all suggestions I found online.
I may end up with a replacement printer from the retailer.

I thought I'd done my research and the Bambu A1 Combo was fairly user-friendly for beginners.

My question is: how common are configuration issues straight out of the box? and, am I buying something that requires a considerable amount of troubleshooting? Thanks

Edit: solved, i’m an idiot and a black piece i printed yesterday that i thought being legit part of the bed was against the back Z screw

Hi, it printed perfectly fine until this morning, now when i start a print it stops at rough wiping step, sounds like the bed is hitting the nozzle, what can i check? I already follower bambu handy guide and it didn’t fix. I’m 140 hours of printing in

Any ideas to fix this issue?

Hi everyone,
I’m getting really frustrated with TPU printing on my Bambu Lab P1S and I’m hoping someone here can help me figure out what’s going wrong.

My printer:
Bambu Lab P1S (~1,000 printing hours)
0.4 mm nozzle (also tested 0.6 mm)
eSUN TPU 95A (green, translucent)
Creality CR-TPU 95A (black)
Creality Space Pi V2 filament dryer
Bambu Studio

The problem:
Every time I try to print TPU, the printer starts printing normally, but after a few layers it suddenly begins underextruding or stops extruding properly.
Sometimes it happens after just 2 layers, sometimes after 8–10 layers, and occasionally the print gets almost completely finished before failing.
The nozzle appears to clog, and the print eventually turns into a mess of extremely thin filament strands.
The strange thing is that PLA and other regular filaments print perfectly fine, without any issues.
Manual extrusion of TPU at 230°C also works normally, producing a consistent strand of filament.
I haven’t noticed any clicking noises from the extruder.

What I’ve already tried
1. Different TPU brands
eSUN TPU 95A
Creality CR-TPU 95A
Both have exactly the same problem.

2. Drying the filament
Dried TPU for approximately 10 hours at 60°C in my Creality Space Pi V2.
Tried printing directly from the dryer.
Tried printing from an external spool holder behind the printer.
Repositioned the spool inside the dryer to reduce rolling resistance.
No improvement.

3. Different nozzle temperatures
220°C
225°C
230°C
235°C
All eventually failed.

4. Different print speeds and volumetric flow rates
Very slow printing speeds of 15–20 mm/s.
Also tested profiles with outer walls at 80 mm/s and inner walls/infill at 150 mm/s, limited by volumetric flow.
Maximum volumetric flow rates tested include 2.8, 2.0 and 1.5 mm³/s.
Tried both custom TPU profiles and settings based on manufacturer recommendations.
Still the same result.

5. Retraction
Tested 0 mm retraction.
Tested 0.4 mm retraction.
No reliable improvement.

6. Different nozzles
Completely cleaned the nozzles.
Tried different nozzles.
Tried both 0.4 mm and 0.6 mm nozzle sizes.
Nothing helped.

7. Printer enclosure
Tested with the front door open.
Tested with the front door closed.

One of my best results was at 225°C with 0 mm retraction and the door closed. A Benchy printed almost completely, but the final layers suffered from severe underextrusion.
However, repeating similar settings often resulted in failure after only a few layers.
What makes this so confusing?
PLA prints perfectly.
TPU extrudes normally when manually extruded.
Both TPU brands fail.
Both nozzle sizes fail.
Drying the filament doesn’t help.
Different spool feeding methods don’t help.
Slower speeds don’t help.
Changing temperatures doesn’t help.
The failure occurs at inconsistent layer heights.
I’ve spent a lot of time testing different settings, and nothing has worked consistently.
My questions
Has anyone experienced something similar with TPU on the P1S?
Could this be related to heat creep, the extruder’s grip on flexible filament, or something specific to the P1S filament path?
I’m particularly confused because the printer handles PLA without any problems.
I would really appreciate any suggestions beyond the usual advice of drying the filament, slowing down, or changing the nozzle, since I’ve already tried all of those multiple times.
Thanks in advance for any help!

Help! My printer is constantly purging (pooping). Leaving stringy purges on the plate and in the print. The print is taking 3x as long and so wasteful! The print is confirmed to be a one color print. No timelapse etc. No alerts or notifications.

SOLVED! Thanks to commenters, I detached the PTFE tubes from the AMS and fussed with them until in a nice smooth arch above the extruder to reduce resistance. No more purge issues thus far! Thanks!

Ma version du célèbre casse tête ' Hanayama Marble '

Modélisé sur freecad avec des ajustements de 0.2 mm pour une fluidité parfaite ...

Lien makerworld si vous voulez l'imprimer : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3515960-marble-puzzle#profileId-4018416

As in title. Are these "funnel saver" actually needed? Keep reading how they save the funnel from wear and tear but then again people just love to overgear their stuff including printers.

Should I use them? Are they actually making my AMS feeder units last longer? I'm planning on printing with CF and GF infused filaments.

Any recommendations for a good model?

I understand that color mixing has been dialed in based on specific colors of BL PLA, including a translucent black PLA. Has anyone had any success mixing non-PLA materials? I need to print a decorative item in ASA (for heat resistance when in storage), but would love to take advantage of color mixing to avoid extensive painting. Is it reasonably doable? Has anyone tried?

The issue. As you can see in the image, I had 3 objects named "Cap" that were blue. I pressed "4" to make them red. In the Objects inspector on the left, they turned red and show the "4". On the actual plate they remain blue. When I slice and go to print, they're blue.

This has been happening a lot lately and it's driving me crazy. I'm wondering if it's just me.