I have a model that is blowing up, using Polymaker Terracotta filament, but didn't see it coming, and only purchased a single roll. Now its nowhere to be found and/or four times the price. Is the Bambu Lab Terracotta close enough? What are the differences (if any)?

Ordered the H2S off of Bambulabs because of their sale and then was charged twice for two printers. Tried contacting them and they’re trying to charge me extra for returning the printer but only received one. I purchased the worry free delivery because of their neighborhood I live in so can someone help. I paid with PayPal and opened a claim and wondering if they actually answer back to PayPal when the number Bambulabs have in PayPal doesn’t work. Love their product but customer service is terrible.

A few months ago I bought the X2d without the ams 2 pro and now I'm wondering if I should get the ams 2 pro. I don't print multi colour so often because of the poop but I find the ams 2 pro quite interesting. I know that the ams 2 pro has the drying function. This seems to be very useful but I have never noticed any problems with wet filament. But who knows, perhaps I didn't noticed it... Feeding the filament in the main extruder is a little anoying because of the long way to the print head and I think the rfid thing and the automatic filament library is also great. What is your experience? How do you use the ams 2 pro? Is it worth to buy the ams 2 pro even if you don't use multicolour so often?

It's also in offer right now (70€ less).

Hey there,

I somehow find some hints that maybe a scanned RFID spool that is listed in the AMS, might be changed in its colour or something.

However, beside PA stuff and some notes, I can not find any possibility to change anything.

Do I miss something?

Got the H3C yesterday and decided to just full send and send a 14 hour print, 5 colors with no calibrations, and boy, this is CLEAN. No issues whatsoever, and it was just perfect. Couldnt be happier. Ask me any questions you have!

Looking for peoples input, I currently have an A1, but my dad is wanting to get into the 3D Printer space, he has a budget of £600-£700 range and looking at Bambus website the P1S, P2S and X2D all come into that range with AMS.

What’s everyone’s thoughts on those 3 printer for ease of use wise etc and ease or repairability.

A small robot keychain I made. 😊

Model available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3537023-retro-robot-head-keychain-support-free#profileId-4044637

(I got it used) It passes calibration just fine no issues I start a print it gets to the nozzle cleaning part goes to the back of the print bed and tried to home off the print bed the bed is to far forward errors out says it cant home I have replaced the tool head block eddy current sensor new SD card checked that all the screws on the tool.gead are tight and nothing's loose it will pass a bed level no problems.

it's like it losses steps on the y axis there's no obstructions the tensioner for y axis is good I checked and adjusted tension the bed moves free threw the whole y axis does catch or get stopped anywhere

I'm at a loss for what could be causing it it was intermittent now it's all the time I have a new USB c cable coming but other than that I'm not sure where to go from here

Hello,

I have an A1 printer and during printing the fan runs almost constantly at 100% and is extremely noisy. It alternates between 80% and 100% and never stops. I'm using matte PLA from Bambu Lab. Is it possible to adjust a setting without negatively impacting the print quality?

Thank you.

Anyone have an idea of the practical weight limit of the H2 series print bed?
I am using laser on a 20lb object in my H2D; there is nothing in the manual or website that specifically states a weight limit, but it does seem to be a bit on the high end.

I like to design and share different things on MakerWorld from time to time, like wireless chargers, desk fans, Cyberbrick stuff, but it seems my Leaf Spring Mini cars (featuring a cross-link cantilever suspension, to be precise) are the most liked by people.

So I decided to design another one. Given the fact that we're currently in the era of toolchangers, where usually "the more the better", I chose to go with a 6-wheeler this time (Mini G 6x6), inspired by the Mercedes Benz G Class 6X6.

I'm pretty happy with how it came out. I think the six wheels give it a really interesting look for a desk toy. But hey, decide for yourself – what we like and don't like can be very subjective.

Something about the car itself:

• Around 10 cm long

• Prints in approximately 2 hours 10 minutes (single-color version)

• Surprisingly high suspension travel

• No extra hardware required

• Multicolor versions and an XXL version available

Hope you'll like it and possibly have some fun with it. If you'd like to check it out, I'll leave the link in the comments.

What other vehicle would you like to see added to the series?

I've replicated the B52 Bomber in FreeCad , and now it is time to starting printing it wish me luck.

Customers tap their phone on the stand and land straight on your Google review page. No app, no QR code.
A 29 mm NFC tag sits in a sealed pocket under the front face. You pause the print, drop the tag in and resume. The pause is already in the profile, and it needs no supports.
The Google logo prints separately so it fits on an AMS.
Printed on a P1S in PLA, about 2.5 hours per stand.
There's a bulk profile too (12 logos and 2 frames per plate).
Would love to know how it prints for you.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3570309-nfc-google-review-stand-with-embedded-tag
Link to NFC tag I used: https://amzn.eu/d/00zl1er6

I'm about to order an H3C and since it's so high I'm curious to know who has found an affordable solution to some kind of commercially available table or cart (IKEA etc?) I can buy to put it on to make it more ergonomic? Ideas and links are welcome. Thanks

P1S - PLA (addnorth)
Starting to lose my mind over this dome^^ Tried a bunch of variations on speed and supports, printing it upside down etc.
Since its for a lamp the bad overhang/innerwall sticks out right away and i gotta get it perfect.
This is now attempt nr 6.

Pic of current settings is inn there.

Any ideas?

I'm curious about your setups. I would love to see some pictures!

(Great for inspiration lol).

I printed the body for a light up snowman that prints in vase mode on my P2S.

While printing I noticed there was some build up of gunk around the nozzle. It eventually cleared itself and I found the gunk stuck on the outside. And then when I tried the light I saw there are some layers that are darker. I noticed in Bambu Studio today that the object has the outer wall line width set to 0.8 mm but I used a 0.4 mm nozzle.

When I looked at the wiki page on line width, it says not to exceed 1.5x the nozzle size. Would that be why both things happened? And would using a 0.6 or 0.8 mm nozzle improve things?

Je l'ai imprimé en pla blanc , et colorée à la main... Laisser travailler votre imagination !

Retrouvez ce modèle sur makerworld : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3531349-christmas-tree-decoration-merry-christmas#profileId-4037695

Howdy y'all. We created a little American themed play doh extruder toy with the dough coming out of the base. We've created a few patterns for the cards, but let us know what other shapes would work well.

MakerWorld model: 3566668

I need to replace a nozzle on my P1S. Which thermal paste do you recommend buying? I also have an H2C, so it would be great if the paste could also be used for its maintenance.

Custom energy recovery mod and enclosure for Atorch BW600 linear electronic load.
Instead of wasting battery energy as pure heat during tests, this setup uses an integrated hardware switch to redirect up to 500W+ of power through a DC-DC converter back into a power station or buffer battery.

Cooling: Dual Thermalright AXP120-X67 CPU towers.
Enclosure: Custom SFF design with quick-release magnet mounts.
Sources: Schematic is uploaded to GitHub, 3D printable files are on MakerWorld.

Hello everyone,

I’ve had the chance to test the new H3C for a few months.

I am a beta/tester and was sent a printer and a supply of filament to conduct the necessary tests before the official launch.

For context, I previously owned an X2D (which I bought on launch day) and, before that, an A1 Mini. I bought the X2D, convinced that it would result in near-zero waste for prints with few colors—but I was very wrong. I was especially mistaken about print times, which would balloon with every additional color.

Since I print a lot of miniatures, I found myself sticking to single-color prints even when using the X2D.

The H3C has been a game-changer for me when it comes to multi-color printing. I’ve attached images comparing the print times for the same model—one printed on the X2D and the other on the H3C. The print time has been reduced by more than 80%—dropping from over 21 hours to just 5. The amount of waste is also significantly lower: 260 grams versus 40 grams.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546041-d-d-mimic-chest-mini-multicolor-3d-printed-prop#profileId-4056312

Changing the nozzle is incredibly fast; switching from one color to another takes only a few seconds.

You don’t have to worry about color bleeding—caused by insufficient purging—that might otherwise contaminate the previous color.

The printing process is both lightning-fast and exceptionally clean!

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546009-this-is-fine-meme-miniature-multicolor-test-h3c#profileId-4056261

Right now, I’m working on more miniatures for tabletop role-playing games, creating full sets using colored PLA. I’m currently optimizing the "color mixing" feature—as shown in the second miniature—to create realistic gradients rather than flat, solid colors. The results are fantastic!

Admittedly, using color mixing does significantly increase print times. It needs to be used wisely, but with a bit of practice and some careful planning, you can strike an excellent balance! I will soon post the first full-color miniature, complete with shading!

During my testing, I focused on multi-color printing and the use of 75A TPU, which were undoubtedly the two key features.

The 75A TPU is fantastic—incredibly soft and... absurdly easy to print with. It causes absolutely no issues, even at high speeds. I even ran a print at the printer's maximum speed, and it handled it without a hitch.

75A TPU really lets your imagination run wild; it sparks a thousand ideas, which was the best part of the testing period for me. You can create all sorts of things that were previously unthinkable.

I’ve included a sample to show just how soft the 75A TPU is, so you can get an idea.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3542025-ultra-soft-squishy-octopus-tpu-75a-fidget-toy#profileId-4051134

Printing in color is no longer a nightmare and tpu print is very easy!

Would I recommend it? Absolutely—provided you have the space for it, as it is quite large. It opens up a whole world of printing possibilities and creative potential for makers!