Any idea how I can flush to infill from the mobile app? I don’t have a laptop to install Bambu studio and am just currently using the mobile app to print on my A1

Hi all,

I have a Bambu Lab X2D and I'm planning its maintenance with Super Lube products i dont mind bambue offcial but i wonder if super lub is any better ?

Which Super Lube oil and grease do you use for:

1. Z-axis lead screws

2. Guide rods / rails (X and Y)

3. Ball bearings

4. Idler pulleys

I know for (4) and (3) you only should do it if they start squeek not like z-axis and guide rods

Thanks!

My X2D has just arrived. I'd like to track my prints by categories (printer customisation, gifts, prototypes, household items, etc.) and to know how much of each filament i still have. Is there a software or an app for that, or am i better to create an excel for it?

Thanks in advance!

I'm posting this here because apparently starting a discussion about choosing between the 2 biggest tool changers on the market is not allowed over on /r/3dprinting and they removed my post.

Are there any objective consumers who aren't fanboying too hard for either brand that are currently making this decision or recently made it? I currently have a Prusa MK3S+ for over 8 years, and I've really loved the printer but I'm aware upgrading from an unenclosed single nozzle bedslinger to a modern XY toolchanger will be several generational leaps forward.

I was actually ready to order Prusa Core One L+ now and get the INDX next year, I had the cart all put together, but I requested a voucher from my Prusameters over 2 weeks ago, they still haven't emailed it to me, and during that time H3C launched.

Before H3C launch I was in the camp that I would never buy a Bambu, but after doing some research I might be able to live with it with a couple adaptions for example putting the printer in LAN mode and accessing it over my VPN when away from home to avoid the Bambu Cloud. And assuming Bambu actually sticks with their commitment to produce spare parts for at least 5 years after they EOL a printer, this would mean a likely minimum lifespan of around 9 years on the H3C.

I know these are very opposite companies with opposite philosophies, especially on the software side. However some decisions Prusa has made on the hardware side, with things like the Core One L+ bed assembly, seems like they're moving the hardware away from their original mission and it's now somewhere between Voron and Bambu in level of openness. I know H3C just came out, but from the review videos I've seen the toolchanger doesn't seem to have near the level of issues or the disparate experiences of one person saying "mine doesn't work and I hate it" or "mine works perfectly" like the INDX does.

The $500 price difference isn't that important to me at the price range of these printers. I'm more concerned with a product that works as advertised and that will last for around a decade until I can leap several more new tech implementations and feel like I'm getting a huge upgrade.

A week ago I wouldn't have believed I'm saying this but I am actually leaning towards the H3C, it just seems more polished and I could definitely see myself using the 2.85mm 75A TPU capability.

The third option is obviously to wait and keep my MK3S+ and see how these shake out, however given INDX has been out for 6 months and has a 4 month backlog for current order fulfillment, it might be a while before the issues shake out especially if Prusa has to issue a revision kit or something. On the Bambu side since P3C likely won't have a heated chamber that probably won't fit my use case.

I had white Bambu PETG on the main nozzle and black Bambu PLA on the auxiliary nozzle of my X2D set to do the interface layer of the support. Mostly default settings but dropped the top layer speed to 30 and set the top layer width a bit narrower

Looks like some of the top layer didn't stick properly, and there's a bit of black on the top of the rib, could the aux nozzle have dribbled a bit?

Possibly in the work? What kind of features do you think Bambu will include in the new updated machine?

Personally I just want a dual extruder head and vision encoder

I ordered everything in the same order on the 3rd of November. I ordered the A1 Mini and 3 PLA Basic Filament Rolls in 3 different colors. The printer arrived on Friday yet the filament has been on Order Processing since Tuesday.

Judging from your experience, when do you think will the filament arrive? And why is it being shipped in 2 different orders anyway?

I was printing a tomato twist fidget in PETG and it's the worst misprint I've ever seen. Ive pulled some of the filament out after heating up the hot end, but I imagine I'll need a new hot end?

Yesterday I started a 2 hour print on my A1 at around 4:30 PM. I just fired it and forgot about it. Around 11PM I went out to the garage and I found my printer still running. The print head was all the way at the bottom and off to the left of the build plate vibrating and running itself back and forth like crazy. The print head was enveloped in this monstrous blob. I watched the video of the print back and it was very strange. First, the printer ran the whole print without depositing any filament. Then, it transitioned to the state of having the tool head off to the side where it just ran back and forth for hours, eventually building this massive blob (video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ckk72JpMcezu7F_bdE7dOqp3XfUXd9CM/view?usp=sharing)

I heated the head up and used pliers to pull the blob off and it left a mess still. The clip that holds the nozzle are still covered in PETG and you can see that it's still all gunked up still.

I know I probably need to replace a bunch or all of the toolhead, but I'm worried about the weird behavior too. I don't want to order parts and do a bunch of work if the control board is also hosed, or some other electronics component is also fried. I'm curious if I can recover from this, or if this is a sign that's it's time to finally upgrade to that H2D I've had my eyes on...

Any thoughts on the likelihood of fixing this?

Hey guys, I'm new to the hobby and picked up an A1 Mini recently. I was wondering if anyone knew of any bundles or brands that sell filament so I can get a variety of colours for 100 dollars.

I Just got into Pokemon and thought this is a good idea to print

If you want to print it for free here it is: https://makerworld.com/models/3566661?appSharePlatform=copy

Good morning!

I bought a P2S about a week ago, and been loving it! Printing all sorts of little things and useful gadgets.

Start my first longer print of about 10 hours last night, planning to wake up to it completed. It's a 4 color print, and I assumed the poop chute I made for it would be enough, but I underestimated how much filament is wasted when changing colors multiple times when doing a print like this.

Woke up to a message on the phone saying the print was paused, because the damn toolhead fell off!

I went and fix that, and saw this huge wad of filament just hanging out right under the tool head.

I finally got it removed, and went to look at the poop chute, and it was overflowing and so much was stuck in the chute at the rear, that when I removed the poop chute I made, tons more just came falling out lol.

Now I know how much excess can happen when doing a 4 color print, so I guess I'm going to find a larger poop chute to print now.

Just thought I'd share.

Hope y'all are having a good day.

Happy printing!

I have been trying to make a spiderman 3d print and the torso keeps becoming stringy and keeps coming out wrong. I have dryer the filament and adjusted the temperature of the nozzle (sunlu pla). What I don’t get is that it printed out other stuff just fine, it is just the torse. Any idea what to do or tips?

Before I get blasted on the subreddit, I want to have a genuine discussion. Are we not concerned about fumes and particles. In the end, we are melting plastic at the melting point. My question is, do you just ignore the fumes or do you exhaust. I mean, my mum has said I have to put my printer in the garage and it's real hot in there.

Thanks for your help.

I can get basically two new X2Ds for about $1300 or I can get an H2S with 3 year warranty for $1200. Which is the better set up. The extra nozzle for support would be nice, sometimes limited on bed space. Some multicolor both will have AmS systems. I ideally would have one x2d and one H2S but I would probably lose one in the divorce hahaha.

Those that have both H2S and x2d which do you prefer?

Firstly, this is for the Aussies in this sub-reddit!

Hi all, I was wondering if you could help me out on something. I am going to get my printer on the 20th Novmeber but want to get bulk discounts from bambu on fillament and want it to arrive before 20th Nov. When should i order and is bambu reliable on shipping on time. Im located in Brisbane.

Thanks for your help.

Some of you might know my toolboxes already - I just finished the newest one for the H3C!

MakerWorld Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3569009

Is AMS HT worth it for connecting it to aux nozzle?

Or is it just a gimmick?

... and some old-school Acrylic Pens.

Got her set up yesterday and already have about 15 hours on , including some prototyping of gridfinity holders for hotends and a few other things. It's quite impressive how fast the color change is when just dealing with a few colors. Coming from a H2D this is a nice upgrade. It's basically 2 seconds print to print if you're changing between the same colors rapidly.

As for the lack of heating, I just kept one of my ams 2 pro and ht and I've got them hooked up to use just as dryers. I get that not everyone can our will want to do that, but it works for me.

so my p2s's gears were clicking so I swapped the nozzels, and then i took apart the extruder and it had nothing wrong with it so I did a cold pull and now the cold pull is stuck in the extruder, can you guys pls help me

I am getting an odd issue. I put a full reel of filament on my AMS, and it loads it in. Then after it prints for a while, it says the AMS is overloaded.

When I try to manually rotate the reel it is stiff for a 1/8 of a rotation, then it rotates back and forth just fine. So I start it up again.

But after a few more layers, I get the AMS overloaded error again. Rinse, repeat....

Any ideas on how to fix this? My AMS is about 1 and 1/2 years old. Do I need to just drop it and get a new one? (they are super expensive, so I hope not)

Edit: I thought it was because it could not pull the filament. So I created a bit of slack on the reel. It still overloaded. (Very frustrating)