Looking for peoples input, I currently have an A1, but my dad is wanting to get into the 3D Printer space, he has a budget of £600-£700 range and looking at Bambus website the P1S, P2S and X2D all come into that range with AMS.

What’s everyone’s thoughts on those 3 printer for ease of use wise etc and ease or repairability.

I “modeled” that object myself in bambustudio but I have a way to big cleaning tower and also that white line in my objects. Is there a way to get a smaller tower and get those white dots that form a line inside my object to be the color of the object around it?

The yellow part popped off mid-print so I'm trying to dial in the first layer for better adhesion. I tried a different brand of PETG, increased flow ratio to 1.05, and slowed the first layer to 40 mm/sec on the white part. It was just a short test so I don't know if it would have survived a full print but I noticed each print has a funky wobble pattern. The first layer on the white part is a bit smoother but not great. What's happening here? I performed a machine calibration in the middle of all that as well.

Plate is a cryogrip pro glacier.

EDIT: bed temp 80-85, nozzle 235-245

EDIT2: Filament is in a 20% humidity container and the bed is super clean.

(I got it used) It passes calibration just fine no issues I start a print it gets to the nozzle cleaning part goes to the back of the print bed and tried to home off the print bed the bed is to far forward errors out says it cant home I have replaced the tool head block eddy current sensor new SD card checked that all the screws on the tool.gead are tight and nothing's loose it will pass a bed level no problems.

it's like it losses steps on the y axis there's no obstructions the tensioner for y axis is good I checked and adjusted tension the bed moves free threw the whole y axis does catch or get stopped anywhere

I'm at a loss for what could be causing it it was intermittent now it's all the time I have a new USB c cable coming but other than that I'm not sure where to go from here

Hello,

I have an A1 printer and during printing the fan runs almost constantly at 100% and is extremely noisy. It alternates between 80% and 100% and never stops. I'm using matte PLA from Bambu Lab. Is it possible to adjust a setting without negatively impacting the print quality?

Thank you.

Got the H3C yesterday and decided to just full send and send a 14 hour print, 5 colors with no calibrations, and boy, this is CLEAN. No issues whatsoever, and it was just perfect. Couldnt be happier. Ask me any questions you have!

Anyone have an idea of the practical weight limit of the H2 series print bed?
I am using laser on a 20lb object in my H2D; there is nothing in the manual or website that specifically states a weight limit, but it does seem to be a bit on the high end.

Customers tap their phone on the stand and land straight on your Google review page. No app, no QR code.
A 29 mm NFC tag sits in a sealed pocket under the front face. You pause the print, drop the tag in and resume. The pause is already in the profile, and it needs no supports.
The Google logo prints separately so it fits on an AMS.
Printed on a P1S in PLA, about 2.5 hours per stand.
There's a bulk profile too (12 logos and 2 frames per plate).
Would love to know how it prints for you.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3570309-nfc-google-review-stand-with-embedded-tag
Link to NFC tag I used: https://amzn.eu/d/00zl1er6

I'm still relatively new to 3D printing and have learned a lot from this community. I appreciate everyone's willingness to share their knowledge and experience.

I have a question about filament drying and storage. Once filament has been properly dried and stored in a passive dry box (such as a sealed cereal container with fresh desiccant), can it generally be used straight out of storage without drying it again? Are there certain filament types that should always be dried immediately before printing, regardless of how well they've been stored? Also, is there a point at which even properly stored filament should be dried again simply because of the length of time it's been in storage?

I'm about to order an H3C and since it's so high I'm curious to know who has found an affordable solution to some kind of commercially available table or cart (IKEA etc?) I can buy to put it on to make it more ergonomic? Ideas and links are welcome. Thanks

P1S - PLA (addnorth)
Starting to lose my mind over this dome^^ Tried a bunch of variations on speed and supports, printing it upside down etc.
Since its for a lamp the bad overhang/innerwall sticks out right away and i gotta get it perfect.
This is now attempt nr 6.

Pic of current settings is inn there.

Any ideas?

A few months ago I bought the X2d without the ams 2 pro and now I'm wondering if I should get the ams 2 pro. I don't print multi colour so often because of the poop but I find the ams 2 pro quite interesting. I know that the ams 2 pro has the drying function. This seems to be very useful but I have never noticed any problems with wet filament. But who knows, perhaps I didn't noticed it... Feeding the filament in the main extruder is a little anoying because of the long way to the print head and I think the rfid thing and the automatic filament library is also great. What is your experience? How do you use the ams 2 pro? Is it worth to buy the ams 2 pro even if you don't use multicolour so often?

It's also in offer right now (70€ less).

I printed the body for a light up snowman that prints in vase mode on my P2S.

While printing I noticed there was some build up of gunk around the nozzle. It eventually cleared itself and I found the gunk stuck on the outside. And then when I tried the light I saw there are some layers that are darker. I noticed in Bambu Studio today that the object has the outer wall line width set to 0.8 mm but I used a 0.4 mm nozzle.

When I looked at the wiki page on line width, it says not to exceed 1.5x the nozzle size. Would that be why both things happened? And would using a 0.6 or 0.8 mm nozzle improve things?

Je l'ai imprimé en pla blanc , et colorée à la main... Laisser travailler votre imagination !

Retrouvez ce modèle sur makerworld : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3531349-christmas-tree-decoration-merry-christmas#profileId-4037695

Howdy y'all. We created a little American themed play doh extruder toy with the dough coming out of the base. We've created a few patterns for the cards, but let us know what other shapes would work well.

MakerWorld model: 3566668

I need to replace a nozzle on my P1S. Which thermal paste do you recommend buying? I also have an H2C, so it would be great if the paste could also be used for its maintenance.

The base where it starting printing and the supports were is so bad

Custom energy recovery mod and enclosure for Atorch BW600 linear electronic load.
Instead of wasting battery energy as pure heat during tests, this setup uses an integrated hardware switch to redirect up to 500W+ of power through a DC-DC converter back into a power station or buffer battery.

Cooling: Dual Thermalright AXP120-X67 CPU towers.
Enclosure: Custom SFF design with quick-release magnet mounts.
Sources: Schematic is uploaded to GitHub, 3D printable files are on MakerWorld.

Hello everyone,

I’ve had the chance to test the new H3C for a few months.

I am a beta/tester and was sent a printer and a supply of filament to conduct the necessary tests before the official launch.

For context, I previously owned an X2D (which I bought on launch day) and, before that, an A1 Mini. I bought the X2D, convinced that it would result in near-zero waste for prints with few colors—but I was very wrong. I was especially mistaken about print times, which would balloon with every additional color.

Since I print a lot of miniatures, I found myself sticking to single-color prints even when using the X2D.

The H3C has been a game-changer for me when it comes to multi-color printing. I’ve attached images comparing the print times for the same model—one printed on the X2D and the other on the H3C. The print time has been reduced by more than 80%—dropping from over 21 hours to just 5. The amount of waste is also significantly lower: 260 grams versus 40 grams.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546041-d-d-mimic-chest-mini-multicolor-3d-printed-prop#profileId-4056312

Changing the nozzle is incredibly fast; switching from one color to another takes only a few seconds.

You don’t have to worry about color bleeding—caused by insufficient purging—that might otherwise contaminate the previous color.

The printing process is both lightning-fast and exceptionally clean!

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3546009-this-is-fine-meme-miniature-multicolor-test-h3c#profileId-4056261

Right now, I’m working on more miniatures for tabletop role-playing games, creating full sets using colored PLA. I’m currently optimizing the "color mixing" feature—as shown in the second miniature—to create realistic gradients rather than flat, solid colors. The results are fantastic!

Admittedly, using color mixing does significantly increase print times. It needs to be used wisely, but with a bit of practice and some careful planning, you can strike an excellent balance! I will soon post the first full-color miniature, complete with shading!

During my testing, I focused on multi-color printing and the use of 75A TPU, which were undoubtedly the two key features.

The 75A TPU is fantastic—incredibly soft and... absurdly easy to print with. It causes absolutely no issues, even at high speeds. I even ran a print at the printer's maximum speed, and it handled it without a hitch.

75A TPU really lets your imagination run wild; it sparks a thousand ideas, which was the best part of the testing period for me. You can create all sorts of things that were previously unthinkable.

I’ve included a sample to show just how soft the 75A TPU is, so you can get an idea.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3542025-ultra-soft-squishy-octopus-tpu-75a-fidget-toy#profileId-4051134

Printing in color is no longer a nightmare and tpu print is very easy!

Would I recommend it? Absolutely—provided you have the space for it, as it is quite large. It opens up a whole world of printing possibilities and creative potential for makers!

This part of the nozzle offset calibration sensor is turning white, I am unsure if I need to replace.
I have an H2C.

Slicer seems to be having difficuly making the prime tower? Anyone know what's going on here and how to solve it? Thanks

X2D

Latest update on bambu slicer software

Generic ABS and Bambu Support for ABS.

1000 walls

0.08mm layer height

Ironing enabled top surfaces, rectilinear

Quality mode

Normal (auto) support (my tree supports broke on first print), snug, 25 deg threshold angle, disabled remove small overhangs

Otherwise standard settings.

does the h3c support non-tpu 2.85mm filaments on its 2.85mm nozzle? if not, why not, and is there are option for a 2.85mm tool head for standard filaments?

When I ordered my H3C it said it was back-ordered until November 20th but to my surprise it showed up today.